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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-04-2017 12:51 PM
44thSKY
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curzulla View Post
%?are you referring to variable speed at fan? Mine turns kinda slow at 195deg. I thought something was wrong with it
Kudos to Curzulla. A great demonstration of using the forum search effort prior to the first post. GREAT INSIGHT of the forum!
11-01-2017 05:55 PM
Curzulla %?are you referring to variable speed at fan? Mine turns kinda slow at 195deg. I thought something was wrong with it
11-16-2015 04:23 PM
Robotech I know what part you were talking about TS I just couldn't clearly remember if it was on the box or the tube. I thought it was on the tube and after I posted that, I researched it and confirmed it was as I thought.

I don't believe we removed that line or the tube off the turbo because you can get the fan out without touching those. You just have to get the whole intake "box" off the car.

That said though, as TS mentions you need to be very careful with this and, if you're new to working on this car, I'd remove the line and the tube off the turbo just to make sure you don't accidentally break this.
11-16-2015 03:56 PM
TomatoSoup
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robotech View Post
TS, is that attached to the box or the tube coming up from the turbo? I think we just unplugged the MAF and removed the box. We didn't need to touch that tube I don't believe.

I swear a little over a month ago is so hard to remember...seems like forever ago. LOL
It attaches to the plastic tube coming off the air filter intake lid.

Google "Sky broken nipple" (or Solstice broken nipple) and you'll see what a common breakage this is.

Here, did it for you: https://www.google.com/search?q=brok...kyroadster.com
11-16-2015 03:37 PM
Robotech TS, is that attached to the box or the tube coming up from the turbo? I think we just unplugged the MAF and removed the box. We didn't need to touch that tube I don't believe.

I swear a little over a month ago is so hard to remember...seems like forever ago. LOL
11-16-2015 02:45 PM
TomatoSoup Further to Rob's post, if you take the air intake (box) off, FIRST BE SURE to unclip the oil vapor check valve from the intake tube - a 5 second job.

If you don't, it's a 90% certainty that you'll break the attachment nipple off the intake tube. (Circled below.)

11-16-2015 12:41 PM
Robotech
Quote:
Originally Posted by 44thSKY View Post
I butchered a key word 'hook'. That was supposed to be HOOD.

So, my question again is ...... to remove the fan and schroud (entire assembly), does the hood have to be removed from the car?
You have no idea how long I was sitting here trying to figure out what "hook" you were talking about. LOL

No, you do not need to remove the hood to take out the radiator fan. I replaced the fan on Jgassers R/L and it was a pretty straightforward replacement. If you remove the air box (just the box from the air duct coming from the turbo...you can leave the air duct on the turbo), disconnect the hot pipe, remove the nut that holds the upper brace to the frame above the radiator for the hot pipe, and remove the nut that holds the same brace to the cold pipe, you can wiggle the fan out of the engine bay and wiggle the new one back in.

There are only 2 screws that hold the fan to the radiator. The rest of the assembly is secured with two plastic tabs that slide into slots in the sides of the radiator. (When you remove the two screws you'll see what I'm talking about.)

I think for me it took about 30 minutes or so. Just be sure to REALLY tighten down the T-bolt clamps that hold the hot pipe together when you're putting it all back together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf_22 View Post
Okay, but again, what's the best way to connect a 12V batter to whatever leads I might be able to see once I find a way to remove the controller from the fan engine? I'm looking at this kind of better, btw: Energizer 12V Battery | Bunnings Warehouse

(Assuming this is what you're referring to.)

Reaching into that damn area is near impossible. Should I try to take the air flow off, first? (The thing leading to the air filter, I mean.) If so, will that cause problems for anything? I think there's a sensor on it and I don't want to screw up any electrical components...
Yes, take off the air box first and you'll have more room to get down in there.

Now, IIRC from doing Jim's, you may need Torx bits to take off some of the components. If you don't have Torx bits this would be a good time to get a set from Sears (Craftsman only) or Snap-On. Don't go cheap with these because, if you do, chances are you'll strip out the screw head. Very easy to do with Torx bits if you are using inferior tools.
11-15-2015 03:41 PM
Wolf_22
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
No, the controller is reachable from the top, passenger side, under the hood. No grovelling underneath required. See the first photo in that thread I linked - that's taken from the top, over the wheel well.

The controller is located on the top/right/rear corner of the radiator. When you take it off, the fan motor connector is at the bottom of the controller, and unclipping it gives you access to the fan motor pins in the plug (to test with 12V). (The fan&shroud assembly do not need to be removed from the car.)
Okay, but again, what's the best way to connect a 12V batter to whatever leads I might be able to see once I find a way to remove the controller from the fan engine? I'm looking at this kind of better, btw: Energizer 12V Battery | Bunnings Warehouse

(Assuming this is what you're referring to.)

Reaching into that damn area is near impossible. Should I try to take the air flow off, first? (The thing leading to the air filter, I mean.) If so, will that cause problems for anything? I think there's a sensor on it and I don't want to screw up any electrical components...


Quote:
Originally Posted by 44thSKY View Post
I butchered a key word 'hook'. That was supposed to be HOOD.

So, my question again is ...... to remove the fan and schroud (entire assembly), does the hood have to be removed from the car?
Definitely not unless you have reasons to suspect that it might... What makes you wonder about that? :S
11-15-2015 03:10 PM
44thSKY
Quote:
Originally Posted by 44thSKY View Post
Does anyone know if changing out the entire assembly requires removing the hook? This makes it a DIY project a little more questionable for me.
I butchered a key word 'hook'. That was supposed to be HOOD.

So, my question again is ...... to remove the fan and schroud (entire assembly), does the hood have to be removed from the car?
11-15-2015 01:51 PM
TomatoSoup
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf_22 View Post
I'm not too sure I can do that on my own... From your comment, it sounds like I'd have to get under the car, take the controller off the fan, then find a way to connect a 12V batter to the fan engine itself (which, to get to, you have to take the fan itself off, which implies taking the fan assembly completely out of the car).
No, the controller is reachable from the top, passenger side, under the hood. No grovelling underneath required. See the first photo in that thread I linked - that's taken from the top, over the wheel well.

The controller is located on the top/right/rear corner of the radiator. When you take it off, the fan motor connector is at the bottom of the controller, and unclipping it gives you access to the fan motor pins in the plug (to test with 12V). (The fan&shroud assembly do not need to be removed from the car.)
11-15-2015 12:30 PM
Wolf_22
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
Disconnect the controller and supply 12V direct to the motor to check it spins
I'm not too sure I can do that on my own... From your comment, it sounds like I'd have to get under the car, take the controller off the fan, then find a way to connect a 12V batter to the fan engine itself (which, to get to, you have to take the fan itself off, which implies taking the fan assembly completely out of the car).

If that's the case and I've understood you correctly, I just don't think I can do that on my own unless there's a clear guide or something out there on the internet that walks me through each step.

I have racing ramps, so I can get the car up without issues but after that, I'm not sure where I would start.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 44thSKY View Post
Wolf22,

I live in the Phoenix area of Arizona, and have a local mechanic shop that has a former Saturn certified mechanic on staff. They might be able to assist on your overheat issue; however, I don't know your location nor know if this might help.

Let me know if this idea has any merit. Kelly Automotive is located in Fountain Hills, AZ.

Maybe I really should post this on the forum topic.??

[after preparing this as a PM, I decided to just post it here on the forum]

Does anyone know if changing out the entire assembly requires removing the hook? This makes it a DIY project a little more questionable for me.
Thanks for the offer, 44th. Unfortunately, I'm out in the Midwest (Indiana).
11-15-2015 11:35 AM
44thSKY Wolf22,

I live in the Phoenix area of Arizona, and have a local mechanic shop that has a former Saturn certified mechanic on staff. They might be able to assist on your overheat issue; however, I don't know your location nor know if this might help.

Let me know if this idea has any merit. Kelly Automotive is located in Fountain Hills, AZ.

Maybe I really should post this on the forum topic.??

[after preparing this as a PM, I decided to just post it here on the forum]

Does anyone know if changing out the entire assembly requires removing the hook? This makes it a DIY project a little more questionable for me.
11-15-2015 11:21 AM
TomatoSoup
Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteBlues View Post
I think he owns a R/L TS, I just used my example of what it cost me to replace my assembly on my NA.. Amazon also sells them for under $150.00 for those DIYfers..not sure though what the part number is for the R/L...
Oh, crap, my bad!

In that case, Wolf_22, the situation changes. PLEASE READ THIS CAREFULLY!

The Turbo cars' fan assemblies are quite different to the NA's. The latter is more simple and much cheaper. The former includes an electronic speed controller that a few people have found to fail. Unfortunately, the controller is not available separately from GM, and the dealer will charge you $300-400 for the whole assembly, plus installation on top!

HOWEVER, the controller IS available from eBay separately, and quite simple to change - just one screw and two wiring connectors. Please read this full thread: Cooling Fan Failure - GXP (Variable Speed?) - Pontiac Solstice Forum - especially post #1 (pics) and post #29 (replacement details). Unfortunately, although the controller failure is more likely in your case, it could be the fan motor still. You should take the controller out first and check the fan motor is fine by connecting 12V to the fan motor pins.

(Also see thread: https://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f5...-module-68674/)
11-15-2015 10:55 AM
Wolf_22
Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteBlues View Post
I think he owns a R/L TS, I just used my example of what it cost me to replace my assembly on my NA.. Amazon also sells them for under $150.00 for those DIYfers..not sure though what the part number is for the R/L...
How difficult is it to change? Are there any videos or guides showing the replacement process? Btw, I found this. Looks like that first one lists for about $93.00...


Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteBlues View Post
You ARE describing exactly the symptoms my NA displayed when my fan quit... Mine reached 250* idling. The reason the temp # goes down while on the move is because air flow threw and around the engine when on the move. Most of the time when on the move the fan never even comes on. Just avoid stopping and red lights and it'll never over heat.... I tested that on my NA in the middle of August last year with the ambient temp of 95*. Just be glad it's not your water pump, that item is an even higher failure rate AND much more expensive to replace. Again, I do not know however if the NA fan assembly is the same fan assembly the R/L uses.. TS probably knows that answer.. Either way, get ready to shell out some cash if you take it to the dealer. Try to find some type of a discount coupon for that dealer, or ask them if they can help you with a discount when you go in.. Good luck buddy..
Yep, that sounds exactly like what I'm going through. I'm going to call the dealership this week to see if I can get in to repair the ignition switch stuff but while I have it in their shop for that, ask them to look at the fan, too. That way, I can at least know for sure what it is that's causing this. Hopefully I don't get hung up on any bad traffic or long lights on the way down!
11-15-2015 09:20 AM
MidniteBlues
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomatoSoup View Post
Seems pretty obvious you have a radiator fan motor failure, as others have already told you. You won't get a code from that. If you're mechanically savvy enough to change it yourself Rockauto (.com) stock aftermarket NA fan units quite cheaply. If you're not handy, then take it to a trusty mechanic - no real need for a costly dealer for this.

Why on earth would you expect a recall over this??
I think he owns a R/L TS, I just used my example of what it cost me to replace my assembly on my NA.. Amazon also sells them for under $150.00 for those DIYfers..not sure though what the part number is for the R/L...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf_22 View Post
That was a tongue-and-cheek remark but judging by the number of people who have similar-if-not-exact issues deriving from overheating, I can't think that there isn't a flaw either in design or else in production somewhere. Maybe I'm wrong (and I hope I am)...

Anyway, I wish I had access to a trusty mechanic... The best I can do (where I live) is take it to a dealership. Doing it that way would at least let me believe that the person working on it would know what's-what in the bay and be competent enough to know how to reconnect everything that they take apart.
You ARE describing exactly the symptoms my NA displayed when my fan quit... Mine reached 250* idling. The reason the temp # goes down while on the move is because air flow threw and around the engine when on the move. Most of the time when on the move the fan never even comes on. Just avoid stopping and red lights and it'll never over heat.... I tested that on my NA in the middle of August last year with the ambient temp of 95*. Just be glad it's not your water pump, that item is an even higher failure rate AND much more expensive to replace. Again, I do not know however if the NA fan assembly is the same fan assembly the R/L uses.. TS probably knows that answer.. Either way, get ready to shell out some cash if you take it to the dealer. Try to find some type of a discount coupon for that dealer, or ask them if they can help you with a discount when you go in.. Good luck buddy..



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