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Discussion Starter #21
I have a 2009 Saturn Sky 2.0L Redline. My car started to overheat at the end of February this year. I had replaced the thermostat that I replaced last year thinking it was it and aired out the system and thought it was fixed and overheated again but up to 234 degrees. The Heater blows cold and overheats, I was told it was a water pump so replaced that but I have not replaced the thermostat(it's not the oem one) at all and aired out the system after adding coolant. The car still overheats with heater blowing cold and when I drive the car it overflows the overflow tank. I had a friend do a compression test after and the compression is fine. When we running the car in the garage, he lifted the overflow tank and it was overfilling when I was doing about 1500 rpms and looks like coolant is getting into the overflow like it has a lot of airbubbles, the fan does come on at the right time. I don't know what it is and need help figuring it out. DDMWorks told to me to check the if the fan is blowing cold or hot to check between the belts and fan and it is blowing cold which he said that it should be that the thermostat isn't opening cause of all of the air in the system or could be a bad thermostat. I hope y'all can help me on this. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
This is what I used when I did the turbo upgrade on my car and a buddy's. Zero hassle. Zero problems.
Hey Lorennerol, I have used this tool and it won't hold the vacuum. I'm not losing any coolant whatsoever and it's like the air is like leaking in out somewhere. The car still trys to over heat but it's taking its time and my heater is still blowing cool air instead of hot air as well. Overflow will overflow when I am driving over even keeping the Rev at 1500 rpms. I am at a stand still with this car at this point and don't know what to do next.
 

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Then you either aren't using the correct nipple with the tool at the coolant reservoir and it's allowing air in there, or you have a leak in the system. I did two Big Wheel swaps last year and used that tool to refill coolant in both cars with zero problems in the process or result.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Then you either aren't using the correct nipple with the tool at the coolant reservoir and it's allowing air in there, or you have a leak in the system. I did two Big Wheel swaps last year and used that tool to refill coolant in both cars with zero problems in the process or result.
What do you mean big wheel swaps? Also, I'm not losing coolant in the system. It just overflows when there is a lot of air.
 

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Thermostats have a wax pellet that expands with increased temperature thereby opening the valve. If it gets too hot, the wax thins to a point of leaking causing permanent thermostat failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thermostats have a wax pellet that expands with increased temperature thereby opening the valve. If it gets too hot, the wax thins to a point of leaking causing permanent thermostat failure.
Would that be the reason why I still feel cool air instead of the heat from the heater and it over heating? Thermostat or Blown Head gasket (minor head gasket issue)?
 

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A stuck-shut thermostat will cause overheating, but will not prevent heat from the heater. A stuck open thermostat will hinder the engine from getting to temperature and severely reduce heat from the heater in cold weather. Overheating and no heat from the heater is generally and air lock (bubble) or a non-functional water pump, ie: something that keeps water from circulating.

A compression test or (better) a cylinder leak-down test will give you a good idea about whether you have a blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
A stuck-shut thermostat will cause overheating, but will not prevent heat from the heater. A stuck open thermostat will hinder the engine from getting to temperature and severely reduce heat from the heater in cold weather. Overheating and no heat from the heater is generally and air lock (bubble) or a non-functional water pump, ie: something that keeps water from circulating.

A compression test or (better) a cylinder leak-down test will give you a good idea about whether you have a blown head gasket.
Even if the car is running fine? Also, I had already replaced the Water Pump and replaced the Thermostat wayyy before the Water Pump. What do I use for a Cylinder leak-down test? How will I know where it is leaking from? I've done a compression test and it's perfect.
 

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Even if the car is running fine? Also, I had already replaced the Water Pump and replaced the Thermostat wayyy before the Water Pump. What do I use for a Cylinder leak-down test? How will I know where it is leaking from? I've done a compression test and it's perfect.
If you have done a compression test that was "perfect" you are very unlikely to have a head or head gasket problem so a leak-down test isn't necessary.
 

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If the coolant system can't be evacuated using the vacuum tool, there is an air leak in it somewhere. It's never going to work correctly as long as that's the case. No matter what you do it will end up vapor locked, the heater will blow cold, and the car will overheat.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So I just re did it last night but with the tool I was told to buy to eliminate all the air and I used the cone shape to mount the tool on top and after using the vacuum it was able to hold vacuum. But thermostat doesn’t seem to open. I just ordered a thermostat from the dealership and will be here Wednesday. I’ll keep everyone updated to see if I fixed my issues.
 
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