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I was wondering if anyone has installed one of those cheap head units into their Sky? I found one on the Solstice site, but he did not post an install, but rather a problem with sound. He did have pictures. I just thought maybe someone here has done it, with the additional wiring harness keeping all the factory functions into a monsoon system.
 

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I am working on an Atoto A6, but haven't actually installed it yet. I have the steering wheel controls working with a spare steering wheel, but the Atoto doesn't have a CAN input so I haven't decided how I want to do the alert and turn signal sounds. I have verified that the camera inputs function properly as do the Bluetooth, USB and microSD inputs. I didn't expect problems with those, but am testing them anyway while I have it on the bench.

I bought a set of connectors to splice into the harness that comes with the radio, to make a plug-in installation. I have a Monsoon System, so I also have a set of RCA to flying lead cables for the pre-amp outputs that will take care of the sound problem that he had at first.

I didn't like the faceplate adapters that were available, so I have designed my own that incorporates the extra USB ports, aux audio and video inputs, my seat heater switches, the traction control button, and the passenger seat belt/airbag indicator.
 

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I bought a set of connectors to splice into the harness that comes with the radio, to make a plug-in installation. I have a Monsoon System, so I also have a set of RCA to flying lead cables for the pre-amp outputs that will take care of the sound problem that he had at first.
JR, I assume you know this (but just in case :)) - the inputs to the Monsoon amp are balanced, both at ~5v at rest IIRC. So a regular ground+signal RCA output may work, but only get 1/2 the volume. You might want to check that first too, before you install.
 

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JR, I assume you know this (but just in case :)) - the inputs to the Monsoon amp are balanced, both at ~5v at rest IIRC. So a regular ground+signal RCA output may work, but only get 1/2 the volume. You might want to check that first too, before you install.
That's on the list to verify. Unfortunately it can only be checked after most of the work involved in the installation has been completed, or at least committed to. It would be handy to have a radio that can be removed from the front without major disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am working on an Atoto A6, but haven't actually installed it yet. I have the steering wheel controls working with a spare steering wheel, but the Atoto doesn't have a CAN input so I haven't decided how I want to do the alert and turn signal sounds. I have verified that the camera inputs function properly as do the Bluetooth, USB and microSD inputs. I didn't expect problems with those, but am testing them anyway while I have it on the bench.

I bought a set of connectors to splice into the harness that comes with the radio, to make a plug-in installation. I have a Monsoon System, so I also have a set of RCA to flying lead cables for the pre-amp outputs that will take care of the sound problem that he had at first.

I didn't like the faceplate adapters that were available, so I have designed my own that incorporates the extra USB ports, aux audio and video inputs, my seat heater switches, the traction control button, and the passenger seat belt/airbag indicator.
If you get around to some pics, that would be great as well. Thanks :grin:
 

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Extremely nice looking job. Well done!
Thanks. Unfortunately it looks better in pictures than in person, so I have some more finishing to do to get a true piano-black finish.
 

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JR, I assume you know this (but just in case :)) - the inputs to the Monsoon amp are balanced, both at ~5v at rest IIRC. So a regular ground+signal RCA output may work, but only get 1/2 the volume. You might want to check that first too, before you install.
The volume may or may not be less, but at max volume it is louder than I want to ever listen to it, so what I have is good. I may get curious one day and pull the sound pressure meter out to test it against the other car, or not.
If you get around to some pics, that would be great as well. Thanks :grin:
Progress pics:

I still have to design and print the brackets for the passenger seat indicator, the ESC switch, and the USB cables, but at least it is in and working while I do those.
I also don't have chimes or turn signal tick-tock yet, and still have to make the patch cables for the A/V inputs. And route the cables for the back-up and nose-view cameras.

One nice thing is that it is now a front-loader, and only the HVAC panel has to come out to access everything, so adding and/or changing things is pretty easy.
 

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The volume may or may not be less, but at max volume it is louder than I want to ever listen to it, so what I have is good. I may get curious one day and pull the sound pressure meter out to test it against the other car, or not.

Progress pics:

I still have to design and print the brackets for the passenger seat indicator, the ESC switch, and the USB cables, but at least it is in and working while I do those.
I also don't have chimes or turn signal tick-tock yet, and still have to make the patch cables for the A/V inputs. And route the cables for the back-up and nose-view cameras.

One nice thing is that it is now a front-loader, and only the HVAC panel has to come out to access everything, so adding and/or changing things is pretty easy.
Might I ask how you wired the steering wheel controls connections? Did you use any swc designated aftermarket parts or just directly wire into the 'key 1/2' etc connections on the radio? I have an android headunit too but because I got the canbus harness without the steering wheel control addon or onstar functionality Im sort of missing the steering wheel control buttons since a touchscreen is hard to automatically hit the volume as opposed to a physical button lol. I was looking around the oem wiring diagram and was contemplating if its possible to directly connect the steering wheel control signal wire into the headunit seeing as this type of headunit can assign any command to the buttons as long as its sending a signal. To my understanding other big brand headunits such as pioneer alpine etc need an special canbus 'decoder' (or whatever it could be called) which acts as an intermediary so the headunit understands what the buttons mean as they lack manual programming functionality. These android headunits though are a special case which complicate things on that front. :/
 

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Might I ask how you wired the steering wheel controls connections? .....:/
The Atoto A6 has an SWC input that works with resistor-bridge controls (which is what we have) so it was really easy. There are two wires in the radio harness that connect to the SWC. In the stock configuration one of them sends a 10V reference signal out and the other receives the signal. With the Atoto A6 I grounded the wire that was used for the 10V signal and connected the signal wire to the SWC control input. There is a settings page that allows you to choose a function then press the appropriate button to do the programming.

How you do it with yours depends on its design, since they do not all seem to be the same. I think that one of the units I looked at even had a direct CAN input for chimes, but of course that has nothing to do with our SWC.

Which one do you have?
 

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This is my worksheet for the connections. I would normally transcribe it to pretty it up, but don't really expect to need it again.
The numbers in the left column are the car connector pins and the numbers in circles in the middle are the radio connector pins.
 

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This is my worksheet for the connections. I would normally transcribe it to pretty it up, but don't really expect to need it again.
The numbers in the left column are the car connector pins and the numbers in circles in the middle are the radio connector pins.
Hi,

I wil receive next week the same head unit. I would like to install it myself, but I do not know if I can do it. Is it veri difficult? Which additional parts did you need to install your head unit. Any wire to solder?

i'm a little bit worried about it.


Thanks

Siull
 

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Hi,

I wil receive next week the same head unit. I would like to install it myself, but I do not know if I can do it. Is it veri difficult? Which additional parts did you need to install your head unit. Any wire to solder?

i'm a little bit worried about it.


Thanks

Siull
You have to do a fair amount of disassembly of the car, and there are several threads that show the steps in pictures. It was not particularly difficult for me, but I do not know how much experience you have taking car interiors apart.

You will need a wiring harness adapter, a faceplate adapter, and a CAN bus interface to keep the warning chimes and turn signal tick-tock sounds. The wiring harness adapter will have to be spliced to the wiring harness that comes with the radio, and you can use either solder or butt splices. If you have a Monsoon radio in the car you will have to attach RCA connectors to eight of the wiring harness adapter wires, and those are normally soldered.

I bought a faceplate adapter kit but did not use it as I am 3D printing my own faceplate.

I have not bought the CAN bus adapter because I am working on my own, so right now I have no sounds, and that means that I cannot tell you anything about installing it or setting it up.
 

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Thank you for the info. Then I asume that I'll need to solder RCA connectors in the wiring harness adapter to connect them to the backside of the head unit.

I wil try to take pictures of the process to help the next one with the same intention.

Many thanks again.
 

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One more thing,... about the connections 1-3-11 are the wires in the original installation. I imagine that the trigger camera is not. Where did you connect them?
 

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This is my worksheet for the connections. I would normally transcribe it to pretty it up, but don't really expect to need it again.
The numbers in the left column are the car connector pins and the numbers in circles in the middle are the radio connector pins.
One more thonh, about the connections 1-3-11 Where are they connected to?
 

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Thank you for the info. Then I asume that I'll need to solder RCA connectors in the wiring harness adapter to connect them to the backside of the head unit.

I wil try to take pictures of the process to help the next one with the same intention.

Many thanks again.
If you look at post #10 of this thread you can see a picture of my finished harness, with the RCA connectors attached.
The two black connectors at top left center are the adapters to the vehicle harness.
The single black connector at the right is the connector for the new head unit.
The RCA connectors are in the center, and just above them are the splices between the head unit harness and the adapter harnesses.
The bundle of wires to the right are the ones that I didn't need but haven't cut off yet,
One more thing,... about the connections 1-3-11 are the wires in the original installation. I imagine that the trigger camera is not. Where did you connect them?
One more thonh, about the connections 1-3-11 Where are they connected to?
The coiled red wire with the fuse holder is wire (1) and is plugged into the SPARE fuse (#2) on the Body Control Module.
The two wires with taped ends to the right of the picture are wires (3) and (11).
Wire (3) will be spliced to the wire from the backup camera, the other end of which is spliced into the backup lamp.
Wire (11) will either be spliced into a parking lamp wire, go to my CAN adapter, or go to a manual switch.
 

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If you look at post #10 of this thread you can see a picture of my finished harness, with the RCA connectors attached.
The two black connectors at top left center are the adapters to the vehicle harness.
The single black connector at the right is the connector for the new head unit.
The RCA connectors are in the center, and just above them are the splices between the head unit harness and the adapter harnesses.
The bundle of wires to the right are the ones that I didn't need but haven't cut off yet,


The coiled red wire with the fuse holder is wire (1) and is plugged into the SPARE fuse (#2) on the Body Control Module.
The two wires with taped ends to the right of the picture are wires (3) and (11).
Wire (3) will be spliced to the wire from the backup camera, the other end of which is spliced into the backup lamp.
Wire (11) will either be spliced into a parking lamp wire, go to my CAN adapter, or go to a manual switch.
JohnWR, thank you very much for your great help. I'll start next week with my project. I'ii try to do a "step by step" work with pictures.
 
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