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Discussion Starter #1
I did a forum searching for "aiming headlights" and came up with lots of threads but not one had anything to do with how to aim your headlights.

So my question is, is their a way to adjust the headlight alignment, or aim your headlights. Right now, the cut-off line is very close to the car, as if the lights are aimed very low. I would like to readjust and aim them a tad higher so I can see at least 20 feet in front of the car, not 5.

So before I go modiyfing the housing or brackets, I would like to know if I overlooked anything.
 

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Glad to see someone else that thinks they are 'a bit low'. My first time out in the dark had me scooting down in my seat to get below the windshield tinting. :) THE WINDSHIELD ISN'T TINTED! :)

I've decided if I ever do much night driving, I'm adding the HID lights.

Don't know if they are adjustable - sorry.

Bo
 

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They are adjustable. Open the hood and look at the back of the headlight housings. The white "funnels" are there to guide a screwdriver to the adjustment screws. You reach them through the side marker lamp opening after removing the side marker lamp assembly from the car.
 

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I am certain that you know this already, but a reminder can't hurt:

Projector headlights have a very sharp upper cutoff, which makes many people think they are adjusted too low. We just are not used to having absolute dark over very bright light. It is, of course, worse on hills, when the car is pointed down relative to the road's surface.

Adjusting the lights too high to compensate for this will create a very uncomfortable and potentially dangerous condition for oncoming drivers.

Proper aiming for the headlights is to have the cutoff level with an aiming dot that is molded into the headlight lens. You need a flat level surface facing a smooth vertical wall, long enough to have the front of the car 25 feet from the wall and perpendicular to it. Check tire pressures, fill the fuel tank, and place 160 lbs in the driver's seat. Measure the height of the aiming dot, and make a line across the wall at this height. Place a barrier of some sort in front of one headlight (not in contact with it to avoid overheating) so that only one light is shining on the wall at a time. The top of the cutoff should be at or just below the line on the wall.
 

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And you’ll need one of those (inverse) Torex (i.e. female) sockets to adjust the fog lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They are adjustable. Open the hood and look at the back of the headlight housings. The white "funnels" are there to guide a screwdriver to the adjustment screws. You reach them through the side marker lamp opening after removing the side marker lamp assembly from the car.
I am certain that you know this already, but a reminder can't hurt:

Projector headlights have a very sharp upper cutoff, which makes many people think they are adjusted too low. We just are not used to having absolute dark over very bright light. It is, of course, worse on hills, when the car is pointed down relative to the road's surface.

Adjusting the lights too high to compensate for this will create a very uncomfortable and potentially dangerous condition for oncoming drivers.

Proper aiming for the headlights is to have the cutoff level with an aiming dot that is molded into the headlight lens. You need a flat level surface facing a smooth vertical wall, long enough to have the front of the car 25 feet from the wall and perpendicular to it. Check tire pressures, fill the fuel tank, and place 160 lbs in the driver's seat. Measure the height of the aiming dot, and make a line across the wall at this height. Place a barrier of some sort in front of one headlight (not in contact with it to avoid overheating) so that only one light is shining on the wall at a time. The top of the cutoff should be at or just below the line on the wall.
Thanks for the info. I knew they had to adjust somehow. I know about the cut off pattern but it is literally like a line 7-10' in front of car. Previous owner had the hood replaced and I don't know if someone messed with the lights or not.

Step on the gas. The weight will transfer to the rear suspension, compressing the rear and lifting the front. Instant adjustment.
:D
I did this and then I had problems with blue and red flashing lights :eek:

Glad to see someone else that thinks they are 'a bit low'. My first time out in the dark had me scooting down in my seat to get below the windshield tinting. :) THE WINDSHIELD ISN'T TINTED! :)

I've decided if I ever do much night driving, I'm adding the HID lights.

Don't know if they are adjustable - sorry.

Bo
Well I just installed HID's and while the light output is waaayyyy better, the cut off line is still very close to the front of the car. At speed (over 45mph) it is hard to avoid potholes in the road and that to me is dangerous. Although the HID's in teh fog lamps certianly help out :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just a quick update. I went out ot the car and sure enough I see the plastic funnel. HOwever I did it the easy way but more of a hassle too. There is a phillips screw on teh back and I adjusted it by that instead of poping off the side marker light.

Counter clockwise raises the cut off line - clockwise will lower the cut off line

If going thru the funnel with a flat head or pick, moving the teeth down will raise the cut off line - moving the teeth up will lower the cut off line.

Thanks again for the help and the proper way to aim. Here was the thread with the HID install http://http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f2/my-hid-install-pics-34193/
 

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Thanks for the alignment info and info on the HIDs. I recall doing alignment 'the right way' in days of old. Nowadays bulb replacement doesn't mess alignment up.

I need to look at the headlights while a passenger in an incoming car to see if they are 'annoying'. What y'all say is probably correct.

That means I need to learn how to recognize DEER as just "4 little trees" and dodge accordingly.

Dogs become 4 tiny seedlings, bears become one big glob and should be easy to spot.

I've had no problems with turtles - they just go 'click' when the plastic deflector on the bottom of the car gives them a little jolt. :)

Bogie - I've only noted an increase in the radio volume and not an erection of the headlights upon serious acceleration. :)

Bo
 

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shabby : I think the dot spec calls for the beam cutoff to drop 2.1" - 2.5" every 25 feet.
Using the "aiming dot" and the 25 foot distance would combine to provide that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So that's what that dot is for :)
Yes, as outlined above, measure the distance from the ground to the dot on the car, then record that measurement and transfer it to a flat wall, then park 25 feet from the wall and aim the lights so the cut-off is landing at or below that mark. (Thanks JRinKY)
 

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A method I've used is to stop the car (on a level surface) with the headlights shining on a vertical wall. As you move closer to the wall, the center of the beam should not move up or down, right or left. If they do, adjust accordingly.
 

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Adjustment

I had to adjust my wife's car after it came back from the body shop with a new headlight on it - she was behind me and it looked like she had her brights on - much better now that I made an adjustment.

HIDs helped me out a lot on the Sky - very sharp cutoff still but now a lot more light and a whiter light illuminating the road etc.
 

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read all the threads on headlight adjustment but address left to right ?? mine seem to be way to far toward the center of the lane while the right catch that side of road , but leave white light in the dark. Running the fog help- headlights and dash lights are the
biggest complains with my Sky. Ultra Gauge solved my lack of vision to gas gauge and
has engine temp . Silverstar Ultra's helped only a little, guess HID are next>
 

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When I aim headlights, I make sure to have someone sitting in the car as well. I notice the weight of a driver and passenger slightly changes the car's sitting, which I want to mimic for my own driving. It's a slight pain, since it means that aiming the headlights is now a three person operation, but it's worth the minor hassle.
 

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Too easy

I did the 25 ft / 2.5 inch rule. Adjusted with the hood open and a phillips screwdriver. Took three open and closes of the hood to get it right and what a huge difference...like a new car...I have HIDs also and it got rid of alot of the dark voids on the road.:thumbs:
 
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