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@Draike13 I got the new MAP installed. It goes into our intake just perfectly and plugs right into the harness. Here is the info for it (I am not making this stuff up, I swear!)

GM 12623671
3.3 Bar MAP (LS1 style for use with the 2.4 LE5 Kappas from 2006-2007)

For HPT:
MAP Sensor Linear: 333.33 kPa
MAP Sensor Offset: 33.33 kPa

Those settings should be pretty easy to remember for a 3.3 bar MAP. LOL
 

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@Draike13 I got the new MAP installed. It goes into our intake just perfectly and plugs right into the harness. Here is the info for it (I am not making this stuff up, I swear!)

GM 12623671
3.3 Bar MAP (LS1 style for use with the 2.4 LE5 Kappas from 2006-2007)

For HPT:
MAP Sensor Linear: 333.33 kPa
MAP Sensor Offset: 33.33 kPa

Those settings should be pretty easy to remember for a 3.3 bar MAP. LOL
Wow, that's hilarious and amazing! lol.
Great information as always Robo. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Well, it's been a while, but the the project was completed and successful (mostly lol). Was drivable around he end of 2019. I now have about 50-60k miles on my hackedish together turbo kit. Thanks again to Robo for the wisdom, and skersfan for he IC parts I was failing to find elsewhere.

I wound up changing a few things. I put in a higher flow fuel pump to replace the factory one, added a return style/boost referenced regulator, and also swapped to 65lb injectors from 42. < Most of these changes were unnecessary, but the factory pump had failure symptoms so I just threw spare parts I had from other projects at it. I was going to try a bit of E85 and put a fuel sensor in (similar to robo's setup), but never got around to it. I drive the car a fair amount so I stuck to readily available fuel.

I also did a balance shaft delete, water pump, timing set, etc while I was at it.

Pics of it in all it's dirty glory:
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I have been having intermittent puffs of smoke coming out of the exhaust for a while now, so a turbo rebuild or replace will be coming soon. RPM seems to have the best deal on a replacement (~$600). Anyone know of a better deal than that? Would kinda like to just replace the whole thing so the car isn't down for too long. I am fighting the urge to go bigger, like the RPM bigger wheel rebuild. Mostly content with the current power for a daily, so will probably just go back with another "stock" one.

I am also looking at upgrading the vacuum/boost reference lines with higher quality ones. I've been using lawnmower fuel line... I know. I said "hackedish", right?! lol. Any suggestions on better line/hose? Was thinking of some nicer silicon line just for longevity an heat resistance.
 

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I have been having intermittent puffs of smoke coming out of the exhaust for a while now, so a turbo rebuild or replace will be coming soon. RPM seems to have the best deal on a replacement (~$600). Anyone know of a better deal than that? Would kinda like to just replace the whole thing so the car isn't down for too long. I am fighting the urge to go bigger, like the RPM bigger wheel rebuild. Mostly content with the current power for a daily, so will probably just go back with another "stock" one.

I am also looking at upgrading the vacuum/boost reference lines with higher quality ones. I've been using lawnmower fuel line... I know. I said "hackedish", right?! lol. Any suggestions on better line/hose? Was thinking of some nicer silicon line just for longevity an heat resistance.
I run braided line everywhere with -AN fittings...but not cheap...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Robo,

Very interesting. I considered using braided line, but was unsure what would work with all of the barbed fittings. What size are you running? Do you use the clamp style fitting at the barb? Something like this? (pic attached)
 

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Tape the ends of the braided lines before cutting. Cut through the tape to avoid unraveling. The above type of clamp is used for aesthetics. If intended use is for high pressure, I have found it to be beneficial to have a custom line made at a local hydraulic repair shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Tape the ends of the braided lines before cutting. Cut through the tape to avoid unraveling. The above type of clamp is used for aesthetics. If intended use is for high pressure, I have found it to be beneficial to have a custom line made at a local hydraulic repair shop.
I have used a good bit of the an fittings and an/ptfe lines for fuel. I have just never used them on barbed connections. Are there specific fittings for an line to connect to a barb? What type of ends would a hydraulic shop offer to connect to a barb?
 

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I have used a good bit of the an fittings and an/ptfe lines for fuel. I have just never used them on barbed connections. Are there specific fittings for an line to connect to a barb? What type of ends would a hydraulic shop offer to connect to a barb?
They would probably use an end without barb that would match the barb other end thread pattern.
 

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I have used a good bit of the an fittings and an/ptfe lines for fuel. I have just never used them on barbed connections. Are there specific fittings for an line to connect to a barb? What type of ends would a hydraulic shop offer to connect to a barb?
There is not an end for barbed fittings. The "dress-up" hose clamp cover is about as good as it gets.
I do not like using any braided hose with clamps, the better solution in my opinion is to use standard hose.
If you want the look of the baraided hose, use an overbraid.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
They would probably use an end without barb that would match the barb other end thread pattern.
The factory wastegate actuator, recirculation valve, and turbo reference ports all have a nipple. No threads. I could cut all of those off and tap them... but it's just not worth it. I was asking the question to see in anyone happened to know of a specific AN fitting or end that would work. Looks like I will go a different direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
There is not an end for barbed fittings. The "dress-up" hose clamp cover is about as good as it gets.
I do not like using any braided hose with clamps, the better solution in my opinion is to use standard hose.
If you want the look of the baraided hose, use an overbraid.
Thanks for the response. I could not find anything besides the clamp type, which I don't really like either. Was just curious if someone had found a better way.

I honestly don't care if it is braided or not. Mostly just looking to use a better material. The tygon hose on it now has held up well. It just gets hot and soft. One day if will fail, I am sure, so I want to prevent it.

Looks like I will find from silicon hose and use an insulating sheath in the hotter areas. That should prevent any issues.
 

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.....
Looks like I will find from silicon hose and use an insulating sheath in the hotter areas. That should prevent any issues.
If you switch to silicone be sure to switch to hose clamps with a solid liner. Standard perforated hose clamps will fail with silicone.
 

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I completely misread your post. I am using silicon tubing for all my vacuum lines. I just set up a vacuum block for that. Its my fuel lines that are all braided lines with AN fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
JohnWR,
Makes sense. Will definitely not cheap out on the clamps.

Robo,
I thought we may be talking about different lines. I will have to be a bit more clear next time. I have seen cars that use small AN for boost/vac, but never with the connections our cars have. What brand of silicon have you used? Some brands I have tried did not deal well with vacuum. Will probably go back with Vibrant again, unless there is a better one that is out now.

Thanks!
 
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