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Another Le5 Sky turbo add

9K views 54 replies 6 participants last post by  coothethird 
#1 ·
Hello,

I have started gathering parts to add a turbo to my otherwise stock 2007 sky base (manual). After looking at Robotech's build, I decided I wanted to try it. I have ordered the following:

Used from stock redline:
Turbo
Manifold
Heat shields
Water lines (in and out)
Oil lines (in and out)
Thermostat housing
New:
Bumper braces (left and right)
Facia (plastic tray thing)
Intercooler brackets (left and right)
Front bumper grill air housing

Now come the questions...

(1) I would like to rebuild the turbo, or have it rebuilt. I thought about buying a new cartridge and swapping it with the old one. Any advice on a cost effective rebuild or rebuild service would be appreciated.

(2) Charge pipes. Is it worth it to buy these pre-made? (RPM for example, $450). Or could I achieve a quality result using a diy intercooler tube kits? Is there an optimal place to put the maf? It seems most of the mafs are right before the throttle body.

(3) turbo cat/downpipe. I do not need or want a cat, but would run a gutted cat for the time being. What is the most cost effective way to connect the turbo bits to the stock exhaust?

(4) Stock redline oil lines. I am planning to drill/tap the oil pan (I think that's the stock RL drain to location) so that I can just use the factory drain line. Any reason this is a stupid idea?

(5) Bolts/fasteners. I do not want to pay the premium price for factory bolts. Any reason that I couldn't just use hardware store fasteners for the brackets? Any special fasteners for the plastic parts?

(6) Intercooler. What is the most cost effective one to use?

(7) fuel system. I am planning on getting some 42 or 60 lb injectors. Still haven't decided which. Any need to change the stock pump, lines, etc?



I'm sure there will be more questions coming soon.

Thanks!
Tom
 
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#2 · (Edited)
(1) I would like to rebuild the turbo, or have it rebuilt. I thought about buying a new cartridge and swapping it with the old one. Any advice on a cost effective rebuild or rebuild service would be appreciated.
DDM and RPM Motorsports both offer rebuild services. I believe both also offer the option of increasing the size of the compressor wheel...a so called "big wheel" option. It's $500-700 last time I looked. The turbo is a Borg Warner K04 and is fairly common so you may find a shop local...if you trust them...to rebuild it. Since time isn't critical though I'd send it off to one of our vendors. I have a RPM Motorsports Big Wheel K04 they rebuilt for me...love it and no issues. (Just check your water plugs to make sure they were tightened when it was rebuilt.)

(2) Charge pipes. Is it worth it to buy these pre-made? (RPM for example, $450). Or could I achieve a quality result using a diy intercooler tube kits? Is there an optimal place to put the maf? It seems most of the mafs are right before the throttle body.
For charge pipes and intake, only the stock Redline "hot side" charge pipe (this is the pipe on the turbo going to the IC) is the same between both builds. For the intake and the "cold side" charge pipe you need something else other than the Redline charge pipes. On the intake, the differences are the MAF port and the PVC port that runs to the head. On the LE5, you don't need either and so if you USE a stock redline intake, you're going to have to block both those off.

On the "cold side" charge pipe, unless you're good at welding metal tubing, buy a charge pipe. I want to say DDM is aluminum and RPM uses steel but either will work. Just be sure your pipe on the cold side is between 2.75" and 3". Any smaller or larger and your stock LE5 MAF (which will go in this pipe...so you will need a GM MAF bung of the proper tube diameter if you're going to weld this yourself) tables will be WAY off. Martin's tuner HIGHLY suggests not to use anything smaller than a 2.75" pipe here since it will make it easier for you to run off your MAF table.

(3) turbo cat/downpipe. I do not need or want a cat, but would run a gutted cat for the time being. What is the most cost effective way to connect the turbo bits to the stock exhaust?
Most cost effective is to find someone with a Redline who has upgraded their stock cat and buy it from them then gut it. It's this or have a muffler shop get the flanges and weld something up but really, probably cost more than buying a stock cat from someone.

(4) Stock redline oil lines. I am planning to drill/tap the oil pan (I think that's the stock RL drain to location) so that I can just use the factory drain line. Any reason this is a stupid idea?
Not a stupid idea and really, I kind of wish I had done it. The ONLY drawback to this is that you must be VERY careful when you do it. RPM Motorsports does it this way and after they drill a very small pilot hole, they open it up with a larger drill bit PACKED with grease...not coated...PACKED...and they go VERY SLOWLY. What this does it the aluminum shavings that are coming off your block are caught by the grease in the drill bit. I believe they clean this and repack the bit as necessary as they go. This keeps the shavings out of your oil pan and THAT is the danger here. If you get shavings in there and they go through the oil system, you can have an oil passage blocked, have reduced oiling to part of the engine and have a catastrophic engine failure.

Also, you cannot take the oil pan off the engine while the engine is in the car. You have to remove the engine to remove the oil pan. So unless you're wanting to pull the engine, RPM's method or the DDM kit that sends the oil return line to the front of the engine and into the water pump timing cover are your oil return options.

(5) Bolts/fasteners. I do not want to pay the premium price for factory bolts. Any reason that I couldn't just use hardware store fasteners for the brackets? Any special fasteners for the plastic parts?
Not really anything special but really, there are very few nuts and bolts you HAVE to add. The ones on the intercooler brackets to the bumper are nothing special so as long as thread pitch and length are the same you're good. I WOULD, however, STRONGLY suggest to use OEM speed nuts where they are called for. Makes like SO much easier than trying to use regular nuts.

The downpipe to exhaust bolts/studs may break when you remove them because...well...they do that. You can replace them with standard bolts of the same thread pitch as stock IF you're using an OEM cat for your downpipe. If you go aftermarket, you will need bolts AND nuts but they will provide that with the aftermarket cat. The nuts that hold the downpipe to the turbo...THOSE I'd only buy as OEM.

(6) Intercooler. What is the most cost effective one to use?
If you can pick up a OEM intercooler used that is in good condition, this is going to be your cheapest option. The eBay ones will require a lot more work to route the charge pipes properly in our cars. the OEM and aftermarket intercoolers for our cars are made to route these charge pipes properly. I think you can pick up the used OEM intercoolers for not much more than you'd pay for the eBay ones and come out ahead money wise since you don't have to build the pipes.

(7) fuel system. I am planning on getting some 42 or 60 lb injectors. Still haven't decided which. Any need to change the stock pump, lines, etc?
You're fuel system isn't about going turbo but rather how big will you go in the future. For 7 psi on the LE5 with a K04 turbo you're going to be around 200-220 whp (guessing here as never dynoed when I was at that level) and the 42lb injectors will work fine. If you want to be around 10-12 psi and about 250 whp I would go 60 lb injectors.

FOR ME, my original target was much higher than that. I currently am at about 265 whp on 15 psi and without changing the head gasket, I wouldn't go any more than that. With that, I have 60lb injectors with the RPM in tank fuel pump (greater flow) feeding a modified DDM fuel rail that has been converted to make my fuel system a boost reference return style fuel system incorporating a fuel regulator on the rail that will raise and lower fuel pressure based on intake manifold pressure.

What does that mean and why did I do it? Simple, injectors are rated by how much fuel they flow for a given fuel pressure. HOWEVER, this fuel pressure number ISN'T the fuel pressure of the fuel in the rail but rather the pressure difference between the pressure of the fuel in the rail and the pressure of the chamber they're spraying into. SO, if you have a fuel pressure in the rail of 40psi, and a pressure in the manifold of 0 psi (no boost, no vacuum) then a 60lb injector flows at 60lbs of fuel per minute.

HOWEVER, your intake manifold when you're boosted is not at 0 psi very often. It's either below that (when you're off boost) or above that (when you make boost). So if you're at WOT and say at 10 psi, the pressure that the injectors are now flowing at isn't 40 psi. It's the 40 psi of fuel pressure minus the 10 psi of pressure in the manifold (your boost) and thus your injectors are flowing LESS than 60 lbs/min and thus must be spraying longer to get the same amount of fuel into the manifold.

With a boost reference return system like I have, the fuel regulator also sees what pressure the intake manifold is at and increases or decreases pressure accordingly. Thus, when my system sees 10 psi of boost, the regulator adds 10 psi more pressure to the fuel system. Thus my 60 lbs injectors would flow at 60 lbs/min regardless of how much boost I run because at 10 psi of manifold pressure my fuel pressure is now 50 psi rather than 40 psi and thus the pressure difference remains at 40 psi. (not my real numbers, btw...just for example).

Right now I run about 50 psi of pressure at 0 psi manifold pressure. The other thing this helps with is idle. The bigger injectors are a bit tougher to dial in at idle with the stock system because at idle, you're manifold is under vacuum. This means that 40 psi of pressure difference we talked about before could be 55-65 psi now. With greater pressure, the injectors flow MORE fuel than 60 lb/min and thus it's a bit tougher for the ECM to adjust fueling with the larger injectors. With my system, the fuel pressure at idle is LESS than my 50 psi and thus the ECM doesn't work as hard to maintain a smooth idle.

At my settings, at WOT the injectors are still "on" 70% of the time. When an injector is running at 90% of the time we say they are "maxed" and the user should be using a larger injector. My injectors and system will probably support close to 315 whp which was more inline with my original goal of 400 whp in stages. What I have now is about the furthest you can go on the LE5 with the K04 turbo. She just runs out of breath too soon. I make my max power at only 4600 RPMs.

Believe me, if you've read my build thread then you know I built my system for dirt cheap to start with. Some things you've left off...

A boost controller. Without one you're stuck at 5-6 psi max which is what the factory wastegate spring on the K04 will allow. Mechanical will get you higher but boost WILL drop off with RPM with the K04. I fought this for a LONG time and only with going with an eBoost2 Electronic Boost Controller (about $500 retail but I got mine used because I ball on a budget...homie...LOL) which will compensate for this did I finally fix it (didn't up my WHP max though because of the aforementioned breathing issue with the K04).

Tuning. You HAVE to tune this thing to make it work. This will probably be one of the larger expenses of the whole build. Again, I got lucky here and had friends with HPTuners and knew a bit how to get it in the ball park. This is going to be a $400+ expense depending on which route you go. HOWEVER, make SURE if you buy a tune from somewhere that you buy one where they scan and tune your car rather than a "canned" tune they just put on and say good enough. These LE5 turbo builds are quirky from what I've seen and you want a tune for YOUR setup in YOUR conditions using gas local to you.

Finally but most importantly, a Wide Band O2. We LE5 guys aren't blessed with a Wide Band (WB) O2 from the factory like those LNF (Redline/GXP) guys...jerks (LOL)...so we have to add one to get a proper air/fuel ratio(AFR) reading. You CAN do this build without one but if your wide open throttle (WOT) tuning is off and you're running super lean, you won't really know it without a WB. They're not cheap and you need a gauge pod (which means you can put in a boost gauge...and who wouldn't want to see the boost they added to their LE5, right?) but it is good insurance to make sure you don't make the engine go boom. I have the AEM wide band with gauge and it runs around $300. Well worth it in my opinion.

To me, having that O2 is why my engine is still running strong. I put the turbo on at about 77K miles and have 125K on it now without any major engine issues. All my issues have been little thing with the parts I've added.

Feel free to post more questions here as they come up and good luck with your build.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the thorough response!

Is a stock (gxp/redline) hot side charge pipe worth using? Or should I just get/make a better one while sorting out the cold side pipe?

Do you use your wideband for any data output? Or any data logging? I will probably get a cheap ish one unless there are other reasons to get an aem.

I was definitely looking at an electronic boost controller. Again, I will probably get a cheap ish one.

I think a return fuel system with boost reference is also a good idea. I'm looking at getting a used rail, so I can modify/weld on it and have it ready.

Another question, I have seen a "hi-boost" engine kit. Are these worth doing?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the thorough response!
No problem, glad to play it forward. Tons of people were there for me when I was doing my build.

Is a stock (gxp/redline) hot side charge pipe worth using? Or should I just get/make a better one while sorting out the cold side pipe?
Honestly, it's fine. If you're looking to save a few bucks this is DEFINITELY one place to do it. Doesn't look pretty but performance wise it's not going to hurt anything really. You may make about the same power as a stock Redline and updating these on that car doesn't do anything much power wise either.

Do you use your wideband for any data output? Or any data logging? I will probably get a cheap ish one unless there are other reasons to get an aem.
Oh...ABSO-F'ING-LUTELY! I have the output from the AEM gauge running through my dash, up my center console, and out the side of it behind my passenger seat with a couple plugs on the wires. When I bring in my HP Tuners, it has a matching set of leads on it's box that plug into these. I wired it so you can't reverse the leads. Plug in it's OBDII port, connect the two wires, and now I have real time AFR logging with the rest of the tune. If you're tuning yourself, it's the only way to do it. RPM's turner used my setup when tuning my car and even he commented how nice it was to work on a setup like this where you can see the AFR real time with the rest of the data.

Some things, like the hot side pipe and intake (mine is about $100 intake built from parts off eBay and PepBoys...LOL) but other things, like the AEM WB, are worth spending the coin.

I was definitely looking at an electronic boost controller. Again, I will probably get a cheap ish one.
IF you're going to go cheap here, just go with a mechanical and a $30 boost gauge. Unless the controller has the ability to compensate for boost drop over RPM, it's not worth it. Save your coin for either the AEM controller (About $350 but not as good as the eBoost2) or TrueBoost eBoost2 ($500). Again, not a place to cheap out on unless you get INCREADIBLY lucky like I did and find someone selling a used eBoost2 for $200...LOL

I think a return fuel system with boost reference is also a good idea. I'm looking at getting a used rail, so I can modify/weld on it and have it ready.
That would work OR you can just get the rail from RPM that's already modified for it...I went with modifying a DDM rail only because RPM didn't offer theirs at that time. When it comes to things like fuel, unless you're REALLY good at welding I would just prefer the confidence of getting it from someone who's done it before. My DDM based rail was all screw together with no welding required and I still had a few issues. (All my doing, of course. LOL)

Another question, I have seen a "hi-boost" engine kit. Are these worth doing?
I run 15 psi on the K04 and the 2007 LE5 with no such kit. I'm already over the limits of the K04 so if I want more power, my next upgrade would be a bigger turbo. Spin the K04 much more than 15 psi on the 2.4 and you're going to be generating a lot of heat without much more power. I'm already seeing it. Like I said...I make my max power at 4600 rpm...we have a 7K redline. By 7k I'm not making much power even though I'm still seeing 15psi. Unless you have a boost controller that can compensate for boost drop over RPM (and really the eBoost2 is the only one I could find that did it) you may see boost drop off over RPM at lower boost levels.

THAT said, the "high-boost" engine kits ARE required if you go with a bigger turbo and higher boost levels. Our engines have 10.4:1 compression while the LNFs are 9.2:1. If you run higher boost on the LE5 with that high of compression, you stand a good chance of blowing a head gasket or damaging the engine (I still wonder though if E85 would be able to let you run higher compression and more boost since it is supposed to like high compression and be more efficient with that...but I'm sure someone out there knows this...LOL). Thus if you go with a turbo that flows more air and higher levels of boost, you need to reduce compression (especially if you're not on E85 or another blend I'm sure). These "High-Boost" engine kits have a thicker head gasket and slightly longer timing chain which can be installed to lower compression without rebuilding the entire engine and replacing the pistons.

IF I stay LE5 I will probably just build up the engine with forged pistons designed to operate at 9.2:1 compression. If you don't want that expense and still want more power, the "high-Boost" engine kit would be for you. This is also where the argument can be made with sticking with the stock Redline/GXP hot side pipe. If you are wanting more power than what this current build will give, you'll need a different turbo. If you go with a different turbo, the stock Redline/GXP hot pipe may not work and the new turbo may have a new hot pipe designed for use with it in our cars. If you custom built/bought a hot pipe, then that money would eventually be wasted anyway.
 
#8 ·
I guess it would make sense to get all the couplers together since I will need to put a cold side pipe together anyway. And some form of intake...
You kind of have to since your cold side pipe is going to be 2.75" to 3". The RL cold side pipes are 2.5" and trying to get those couplers around a bigger pipe is not easy. I'd go with a 3" pipe and you will want bigger couplers for that for sure. Nylon reinforced silicon couplers will work...these are the ones that look like they have little white dots on the end edges. This is the nylon molded into the silicon.

Robotech, are you using the rSP function on your eboost 2?
No, I use the Boost Correction function (Cor)

http://www.pacperformance.com.au/Articles/15331/eB2-Instructions-Sept-14.pdf
page 30 in the manual.
 
#10 ·
I believe they may be slightly smaller than 2.5 but you can get 2.5 pipes into them with some finessing.

Throttle body for the LE5 I think is closer to 2.75".

As for the eBoost2, there are some major differences such as boost level over time boost switching, number of boost groups, and the fact that the eBoost2 is a gauge rather than a box you have to mount somewhere. I have my eBoost2 in a pillar gauge pod. I paid less for my eBoost2 used than retail on the eBoost street.
 
#11 ·
Ok, I am finally going to start gaining more traction on this build. I am in the process of doing R&R on the clutch and waterpump (<may convert to electric), so it seems a good time to take other stuff apart too...

New parts(well, new to me):

-AEM wideband o2 controller (Re-found from another project, previously though lost in a move...)
-GFB G-Force III EBC (Scored this super cheap NIB, will see how it works out)
-42lb ev6 injectors (will work for now, until I decide to pull a Robo and blow her up... JK)
-Solo Cat-free downpipe
-OEM RL intercooler
-OEM RL charge pipes
-DDM turbo to airbox elbow

(Thanks to Skersfan for having some IC parts stashed away!)


Question about coolant (Water) hookup on the turbo:

- I have an LNF t-stat housing a pipe (it's off a Regal, so maybe it fits... lol). So the OEM water line should hook easily from T-stat housing to turbo. After re-reading Robotech's build, there was an edit about returning straight to the head (LNF style). Could someone elaborate on the fitting in the head? Maybe a picture of this fitting?
 
#12 ·
Basically, look at where your overflow coolant tank line connects to the head on your LE5. If you remove that line at the head, you'll fine a hose barb that is screwed into the head (it has a small hex base you can put a wrench on...10mm??? Don't remember). If you were to remove that, you now have the hole where the LNF turbo's water return connects to using a banjo fitting with a hose barb that screws into the top of it for the overflow line. That's how the factory LNF is setup. I don't have pictures but if you do a google image search for LNF and look in that area of the engine, you'll see how its done. I'm going to try to use that setup on my new engine but it will come down to clearance for my return style fuel rail. That makes it a little tight up there.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Just wanted to post a quick update. Got a few steps crossed off my list.

-R&R the clutch. This was not a lot of fun, but it wouldn't be that bad next time around.
-R&R the timing chain. The car is at 100k miles, so I went ahead and did it. This wasn't bad at all.
-R&R the water pump. The pump was leaking very slightly for about 10k miles. This was also part of the decision to go ahead with the timing chain R&R. Also installed a turbo t-stat housing while in there. I have an extra turbo t-stat housing if anyone needs it.
-Deleted the balance shafts while doing the timing chain. I used OTTP delete bushings and sawed the balance shafts off just behind the bearings.
-Drilled hole in block for oil return. Attached a picture of the bit I used. Photo also shows a caliper reading of how far you can drill without breaking through. I couldn't find that info before doing this, so here it is. I can now say I have contributed something. lol. Unfortunately I lost the pictures of the carnage (aka pile of aluminum chips). I used a combination of drilling dry (to remove most of the material prior to breakthrough) and the grease-pack method. It worked well.
-Mounted up the inter-cooler. Thanks to Robotech for the part numbers, Skersfan for the IC parts, and a few others out there for posting pics.
-Installed new 42lb injectors and 2 bar map. <easy sauce. I will not be modifying the fuel system any further for now. Only plan on 6-8 psi.
-Just finished rebuilding the turbo. This is easy as long as you mark everything correctly. Will be installing it along with the lines this weekend.


Right now I am trying to decide between finding a gxp/redline airbox lid or making a CAI. I would rather use the oem style setup (quiet, oem looking etc.), but it's been a pain finding a lid. I am about to order parts for the cold-side piping, so I may just order a few extra pieces and a filter.
 

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#17 ·
That is a good point Robotech. I have a maf bung to weld into the cold side pipe. I was planning on making a simple cover/plate for the lnf lid maf bung hole>:). If i can't find a lid i will either modify the le5 cover for a curb-side outlet, or build a CAI. I will shop for a lid and decide.
 
#19 ·
Loving this thread, great information.

Ive come into a situation where someone near my has just bought 3 gxp's and 2 base model solstice from an auction(all totaled). He parting them out completely. I can basically have my pick of parts incredibly cheap. So my question is:

IF I were wanting to do this build as well, What is EVERYTHING that I need to pull off of a turbo model that I can use for the LE5 to build the turbo setup.
And a quick list of everything else I will need that I cant get off these would be great too. Rob, im going your direction here and only able to possibly do this because I can do it as cheap as possible and slowly upgrade later. Im looking for extreme budget build here. lol
 
#24 ·
https://www.skyroadster.com/#/topics/68089?page=1

This thread includes an entire parts list of what you need for a 2.4 turbo build using the LNF K04 turbo. Includes part numbers and MSRP prices.

Rob, what brand and size air filter is that?
Also, where did you tap in for the crankcase vent? Did you use the port on the turbo?
My turbo is missing the port/tube that attaches to the compressor inlet. I was thinking about blocking it off and welding a nipple on the cai tube. Not ideal, but it would be cheap and package well.
Just a Spectrum filter from Autozone. For the vent, I routed it to an oil catch can then back up to the fitting for the LNF line that comes off the head to the turbo but you could just put a filter in it.

Thanks, I know ill also have to fabricate some charge pipes, or buy some. but I can work on that.

Basically im able to buy a guts pull out; engine, intercooler, intake, cat, shrouds...everything in the engine bay pretty much... for $700
so I think that's a pretty damn good offer to get most of what I need for a turbo.
I have a set of 60# injectors I just took off my car for sale as well for $125. Plug. Plug. Plug. Lol

Dont forget a wideband 02. Without it youll really have no idea where your AFRs sit and would make tuning more difficult. Also, its a good way to generally tell if your engine is still OK haha.
HIGHLY recommend this. Not totally necessary, but can be an engine saver if something really bad were to happen Nd it is a great tuning and troubleshooting tool. I have and AEM unit that I can log its output on HP Tuners when I scan my car. Tuners LOVE having live wide band O2 data in the logs.
 
#20 ·
Rob, what brand and size air filter is that?
Also, where did you tap in for the crankcase vent? Did you use the port on the turbo?
My turbo is missing the port/tube that attaches to the compressor inlet. I was thinking about blocking it off and welding a nipple on the cai tube. Not ideal, but it would be cheap and package well.
 
#21 ·
draike,

You need to get the following:
-exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe/cat, <all the heat shields for these, oil feed line, oil drain line, coolant feed line (with all of the line and fittings, all the way to the head, especially the banjo with barb fitting... lol), thermostat housing and tube, coolant drain line, get the airbox and lid from the turbo car (unless you want to go cai, in that case mail the airbox lid to me, lol), go ahead and get all of the turbo air piping (from turbo to throttle body, you can't use it all, but will help with mock up), intercooler with all the brackets and braces, go ahead and get all the plastic shrouds that are around the intercooler (i don't think you can use the one that the bumper attaches to, because sky vs solstice). Keep all the fasteners you come across while removing everything.

What else you will need:
-bigger injectors, map sensor (2 or more bar), the plastic piece/shroud that fills in between the bumper and the intercooler(see Rob's build for part numbers).
-a tune.
-optional: boost gauge, boost controller


I may be missing something. Hopefully Rob can fill in the blanks!
 
#22 ·
Thanks, I know ill also have to fabricate some charge pipes, or buy some. but I can work on that.

Basically im able to buy a guts pull out; engine, intercooler, intake, cat, shrouds...everything in the engine bay pretty much... for $700
so I think that's a pretty damn good offer to get most of what I need for a turbo.
 
#26 ·
Mine was around $1200 but I got the turbo, exhaust manifold, water/oil lines, intercooler, charge pipe, coolant tube, and thermostat housing for free...basically I had an entire LNF with turbo given to me so I also had all the nuts and bolts that went with those things. I also got an LNF downpipe for $50.
 
#33 ·
Another question directed at Rob.

So the stock cat from the redline/gxp will fit the LE5 correct?
Any reason that the DDMWorks high flow redline cat wouldn't fit as well?

Any reason I cant think about that I couldn't go ahead and upgrade to that cat while im working on the turbo build, before I get anything else installed.

Possible? advised? bad idea?
 
#41 ·
@Draike13 I got the new MAP installed. It goes into our intake just perfectly and plugs right into the harness. Here is the info for it (I am not making this stuff up, I swear!)

GM 12623671
3.3 Bar MAP (LS1 style for use with the 2.4 LE5 Kappas from 2006-2007)

For HPT:
MAP Sensor Linear: 333.33 kPa
MAP Sensor Offset: 33.33 kPa

Those settings should be pretty easy to remember for a 3.3 bar MAP. LOL
 
#43 ·
Well, it's been a while, but the the project was completed and successful (mostly lol). Was drivable around he end of 2019. I now have about 50-60k miles on my hackedish together turbo kit. Thanks again to Robo for the wisdom, and skersfan for he IC parts I was failing to find elsewhere.

I wound up changing a few things. I put in a higher flow fuel pump to replace the factory one, added a return style/boost referenced regulator, and also swapped to 65lb injectors from 42. < Most of these changes were unnecessary, but the factory pump had failure symptoms so I just threw spare parts I had from other projects at it. I was going to try a bit of E85 and put a fuel sensor in (similar to robo's setup), but never got around to it. I drive the car a fair amount so I stuck to readily available fuel.

I also did a balance shaft delete, water pump, timing set, etc while I was at it.

Pics of it in all it's dirty glory:
 

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#44 ·
I have been having intermittent puffs of smoke coming out of the exhaust for a while now, so a turbo rebuild or replace will be coming soon. RPM seems to have the best deal on a replacement (~$600). Anyone know of a better deal than that? Would kinda like to just replace the whole thing so the car isn't down for too long. I am fighting the urge to go bigger, like the RPM bigger wheel rebuild. Mostly content with the current power for a daily, so will probably just go back with another "stock" one.

I am also looking at upgrading the vacuum/boost reference lines with higher quality ones. I've been using lawnmower fuel line... I know. I said "hackedish", right?! lol. Any suggestions on better line/hose? Was thinking of some nicer silicon line just for longevity an heat resistance.
 
#48 ·
I have used a good bit of the an fittings and an/ptfe lines for fuel. I have just never used them on barbed connections. Are there specific fittings for an line to connect to a barb? What type of ends would a hydraulic shop offer to connect to a barb?
 
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