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Discussion Starter #1
Cant seem to find many "How too's" on replacing these things. They are easy enough to find, but taking them out is something else entirely.
Anyone done this and have possibly an easier way to tackle it?

Trying to replace my main one, it isn't moving and to my understanding that would explain why I cannot get heat any longer. Will occasionally "Pop" a few times and heat will work great.
Just cant get a screwdriver up there to even get the old one out. lol
 

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Thank you so much for this. It's truly going to be a pain in the ass, but at least ive actually seen it done now. lol.
I cannot remember where I bought the part from...but it was either ebay or amazon....I believe it was 23 dollars. Cheaper than what he paid for it. Just as a point of info....all 3 actuators are identical numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I cannot remember where I bought the part from...but it was either ebay or amazon....I believe it was 23 dollars. Cheaper than what he paid for it. Just as a point of info....all 3 actuators are identical numbers.
Oh wait. Now im lost. there are 3?!
I was told, and can only see, 2 actuators. where is the other?

But them being the same part number is good to know. I was told at the store that they could order the one but the second one they couldn't find the number for. Makes sense if its the same one. They sure do look identical.
 

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Oh wait. Now im lost. there are 3?!
I was told, and can only see, 2 actuators. where is the other?

But them being the same part number is good to know. I was told at the store that they could order the one but the second one they couldn't find the number for. Makes sense if its the same one. They sure do look identical.
All u need to do is change one actuator....the one that he showed u on the internet. Do not get confused. It is really simple. The most difficult part was accessing the 3rd screw....just remember to remove the bolster underneath the bolster...then access should be easier. Watch the video until the very end again. He omits one part of the removal but reminds to explain the second bolster at the very end.
 

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Before you start disassembling everything, have you tried the system reset? I had similar issue when I bought my Sky earlier this year and was ready to replace the actuator. The system reset took 5 min and no tools. There's a YouTube video from watchjrgo that shows the process. I ended up doing it & the 3rd time it worked and have not had an issue since. Good luck whichever route you take.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Before you start disassembling everything, have you tried the system reset? I had similar issue when I bought my Sky earlier this year and was ready to replace the actuator. The system reset took 5 min and no tools. There's a YouTube video from watchjrgo that shows the process. I ended up doing it & the 3rd time it worked and have not had an issue since. Good luck whichever route you take.
By reset do you mean the auto calibration? because ive done that a number of times.
pretty sure my actuator is stuck, but if there is another option to try something, im game.
 

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Yes, I meant “auto calibration”. If you already tried it multiple times, then I’d say you’re correct, the blend door may need replaced. However, I didn’t read what your actual issue was or that you had already performed it, so that’s why I suggested it. There is other info that suggests soldering 1 in-line 60 to 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor to a specific wire in the hvac control head harness, when experiencing a temp shift from cold to full hot, when the temp control is turned merely 1 click off of full cold. That was the issue I had and I actually bought a pkg of those resistors. If you wanna try it, I’ll mail you one. The step by step details (with pics) of which wire to solder in-line is on the solstice forum. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, I meant “auto calibration”. If you already tried it multiple times, then I’d say you’re correct, the blend door may need replaced. However, I didn’t read what your actual issue was or that you had already performed it, so that’s why I suggested it. There is other info that suggests soldering 1 in-line 60 to 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor to a specific wire in the hvac control head harness, when experiencing a temp shift from cold to full hot, when the temp control is turned merely 1 click off of full cold. That was the issue I had and I actually bought a pkg of those resistors. If you wanna try it, I’ll mail you one. The step by step details (with pics) of which wire to solder in-line is on the solstice forum. Good Luck
I wish this was my problem. lol. I'd consider that a "Fix".
I have no heat. Its always blowing cold. I never run my air(may have twice in the last 3 years), but when its below 0 outside I definitely need heat. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All u need to do is change one actuator....the one that he showed u on the internet. Do not get confused. It is really simple. The most difficult part was accessing the 3rd screw....just remember to remove the bolster underneath the bolster...then access should be easier. Watch the video until the very end again. He omits one part of the removal but reminds to explain the second bolster at the very end.

Number 1, this is the worst job to do on this car hands down. Its near impossible to get up there to that thing.
That being said I got the new actuator in. And I still have cold air most of the time. It will click over sometimes, doing a little better than before, but definitely not consistent.

Do you know what exactly the 3 actuators do independently? are they all 3 exactly the same(part number wise)? would replacing the lowest one still possibly fix this problem or do I have something else going on?
 

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Number 1, this is the worst job to do on this car hands down. Its near impossible to get up there to that thing.
That being said I got the new actuator in. And I still have cold air most of the time. It will click over sometimes, doing a little better than before, but definitely not consistent.

Do you know what exactly the 3 actuators do independently? are they all 3 exactly the same(part number wise)? would replacing the lowest one still possibly fix this problem or do I have something else going on?
Each actuator has the identical part number....and each of them individually control one of each dial. I do not know if u removed your drivers seat but u should if doing this job. It makes access so much easier...and I am a 6 footer. It was the 3rd screw that I had difficulty loosening. If u r still experiencing the same issue, then try reprogramming it again....follow the instructions. Everyone that I know of had a positive result...good luck.
 

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Each actuator has the identical part number....and each of them individually control one of each dial. I do not know if u removed your drivers seat but u should if doing this job. It makes access so much easier...and I am a 6 footer. It was the 3rd screw that I had difficulty loosening. If u r still experiencing the same issue, then try reprogramming it again....follow the instructions. Everyone that I know of had a positive result...good luck.
Not exactly - there isn't an actuator for the Blower dial. According to the schematics there is the "Left Temperature Actuator", "Right Temperature Actuator" and the "Mode Actuator", but why there are two temp flaps, I don't know. There's a note that says 'Left' means left side of the HVAC module and 'Right' means right side. It also says the Mode Actuator is on the left too.

You now know what I know :)

UPDATE: I looked at the manual's replacement instructions, and now I know more:

Air Temperature Actuator
There are 2 air temperature actuators in the HVAC module, though this vehicle is not equipped
with dual zone temperature control. When a desired temperature is selected by the vehicle
operator, both air temperature actuators operate in sync with each other.
Parts bin strikes again, I guess.

The other thing I noticed is that the repair test shows a 4th actuator - for A/C Re-circulation (which makes sense). Yet that actuator doesn't show up on the schematic as far as I can see. NOPE - it does show there, I just couldn't see it. Age. It's a terrible thing. However that actuator is far more simple (just two positions) so I assume it's a different part number and also looks different to the other three.
 

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Not exactly - there isn't an actuator for the Blower dial. According to the schematics there is the "Left Temperature Actuator", "Right Temperature Actuator" and the "Mode Actuator", but why there are two temp flaps, I don't know. There's a note that says 'Left' means left side of the HVAC module and 'Right' means right side. It also says the Mode Actuator is on the left too.

You now know what I know :)

UPDATE: I looked at the manual's replacement instructions, and now I know more:



Parts bin strikes again, I guess.

The other thing I noticed is that the repair test shows a 4th actuator - for A/C Re-circulation (which makes sense). Yet that actuator doesn't show up on the schematic as far as I can see. NOPE - it does show there, I just couldn't see it. Age. It's a terrible thing. However that actuator is far more simple (just two positions) so I assume it's a different part number and also looks different to the other three.
All I know is from experiential learning....I just replaced mine following the instructions from that UTUBE video...everything that he OP is experiencing I had....and it was resolved. I cannot say what the OP replaced was the correct actuator...although to replace the other two would be difficult because access in a SKY is more difficult than a Solstice. Just watch the video on a Solstice.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not exactly - there isn't an actuator for the Blower dial. According to the schematics there is the "Left Temperature Actuator", "Right Temperature Actuator" and the "Mode Actuator", but why there are two temp flaps, I don't know. There's a note that says 'Left' means left side of the HVAC module and 'Right' means right side. It also says the Mode Actuator is on the left too.

You now know what I know :)

UPDATE: I looked at the manual's replacement instructions, and now I know more:



Parts bin strikes again, I guess.

The other thing I noticed is that the repair test shows a 4th actuator - for A/C Re-circulation (which makes sense). Yet that actuator doesn't show up on the schematic as far as I can see. NOPE - it does show there, I just couldn't see it. Age. It's a terrible thing. However that actuator is far more simple (just two positions) so I assume it's a different part number and also looks different to the other three.
Yup, I discovered this when I went down and did some testing.
So the higher up actuator, the one replaced in the video, seems to control the heat level in the car. The lower one toward the inside of the car opens and closes to allow any level of heat if you move it past full AC. This was the one that was broken on mine. Replaced it and my heat is working perfectly now =)

Thanks for all the help guys. and hope this helps someone else in the future.
 
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