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Discussion Starter #1
Like the title says, I was at the track on Sat and completely blew out my 2007 Manual Saturn Sky Redline rear differential. Does anyone have any ideas where I could get another one? Doesn't look like they are readily available. Am I screwed etc?

The guy I went to the track with on Sat found one on Craigslist for $300, but I don't have any specifics.

Does anyone have any better alternatives? I'm ok with used rebuilt or new...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, is there a difference between the 2007 that didn't have the transmission cradle and the one that did? Like are the diffs both interchangeable in them? Is there a difference also between automatics and manuals?

Any help is appreciated!
 

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I have an LSD rear diff I'd be willing to part with but they are not light...shipping would be up there. It is used...but I had the dreaded diff sound going on when I first got my car so this diff has only about 50K miles on it even though it go swapped when the car had about 100k on it. Was ran with the right oil in it and had been working fine when I took it out to swap it with the Quaife.

Your diff was an LSD diff in the Redline and the NA had it as an option...an open diff was standard.

It has no ring gear on it (because it's on my Quaife but because I'm NA the gear wouldn't have been for your car anyway) but if your ring gear is good then you can just swap it over. If not and that is what is causing your issue, you could just get a new ring gear and call it good. PM me and we can work out details if you're interested.

And no, the external diff case does not change the internals...but mine is off a early build 2007...
 

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Like the title says, I was at the track on Sat and completely blew out my 2007 Manual Saturn Sky Redline rear differential. Does anyone have any ideas where I could get another one? Doesn't look like they are readily available. Am I screwed etc?

The guy I went to the track with on Sat found one on Craigslist for $300, but I don't have any specifics.

Does anyone have any better alternatives? I'm ok with used rebuilt or new...
I see you found one and that's good but I'm curious as to how you would blow the diff.Were you on street tires or slicks? Normally the diff won't blow unless there is no slip at the tires that's what happened to me I put a set of slicks on my moded 5.0 and the diff blew first pass but had been fine on street tires.:cheers:
 

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Thanks robo I bought a new carrier from performance autowerks.
I see you found one and that's good but I'm curious as to how you would blow the diff.Were you on street tires or slicks? Normally the diff won't blow unless there is no slip at the tires that's what happened to me I put a set of slicks on my moded 5.0 and the diff blew first pass but had been fine on street tires.:cheers:
I PM'd him and my understanding was he needed the entire carrier, not just the differential inside. sounds like one of the mounting positions failed or something and the carrier (the case that holds the differential for those who may not know the term) was damaged and in need of replacement.

Of course, I'd STILL like to know what happened to cause that!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I see you found one and that's good but I'm curious as to how you would blow the diff.Were you on street tires or slicks? Normally the diff won't blow unless there is no slip at the tires that's what happened to me I put a set of slicks on my moded 5.0 and the diff blew first pass but had been fine on street tires.:cheers:
I'm with you on this man!

I don't understand it either!

So last year I went to Cecil and I had to set the WOT Box at 4000rpms on the two-step so it wouldn't bog off the line! I got a 13.6 at 102. Now last year it was HOOKING even on half tread eagle f1s! At 4000rpms it spun some, but I got off the line.

So I hit a nail and had to replace the back to tires and all my garage has are hancooks for the back so I buy them. Now I take it to the track Saturday and I set the car up with the same 4,000rpm 2step. The ONLY difference is that we got to the track and were the FIRST to run RIGHT AFTER THEY SPRAYED THE TACKY CRAP. I'm thinking that might have done it. I set it at 4000rpms 2 step let off the clutch like last year and GUNK!!!! Nothing! All the lube leaks out on start line! When I put it in gear it will pop right back out. Sounded to me like the differential carrier and my mechanic said the drive shaft was still solidly connected but was just spinning inside the diff when they tried to give it power.

Sounded like major damage to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now that I'm thinking about it too...WHen I tried to do a quick wheel burn before the run it just wheel hopped....Tires did not spin at all (which was also weird). i guess the little bit of wheel hop I had must have done it in.

Hell next time I go I might actually get the damn tires wet first to make sure I get some spin....That's crazy though with just hancook street tires.
 

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Oh yea, high bite tracks make for some great times but will break **** quick.

Was out in Surprise AZ at a 1/4 mile strip in the Grand Prix and was looking to see what the new Whipple setup on it would do. First I was going to go out on street tires then, if I ran a 12.5, would change out to slick. I pulled a 1.993 60' on Sumitomo street tires...on a FWD Grand Prix 2.0X was a fast 60' so a 1.9 was unheard of.

10 cars went home on flatbeds with broken drive train components that night including my friend's Grand Prix. He was almost stock with a wicked tune and a shift kit in the trans. The shift kit had been put in before the tune so when I put it in, I put in the hardest setting it came with. When I was later able to tune him, I told him I could up the line shift pressures but that he HAD to change the shift kit from firm to medium. When he broke, he said the car launched great but as soon as it hit the 1-2 shift...BANG...and nothing. No movement. Engine would just free rev. Turns out he busted his torque converter.

I asked him, "You DID change that shift kit, right?"

Sheepishly he responded, "No..."

Like the Grand Prix's transmissions, our differential cases are notoriously weak but it sounds like you broke the differential itself, not the case...

Peg Leg Pete burnouts and wheel hop will kill a lot of drivetrain components too. You may have damaged the diff on the burnout and then the stress of launching finished it. Too bad Quiafe didn't have any more of those wonky miss-cut differentials for sale for $300...I'd say drop one of them in.
 

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So here is something interesting that I never really knew before. While reading my Solstice Performance book last night about how to increase steering angles for drifting, I read they used a Cadillac STS V differential case to handle the 500+ whp of the engine they were putting in and that it was a drop in replacement.

I have been trying to find what makes the STS V differential so special compared to the factory Kappa or Cadillac CTS differential. No luck so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ssky what was your best time? At 3000 to 3500 to me on the wot box it would bog off the line...4000 rpms allowed me to keep the revs and not bog.. I ran a 13.6 at 102. It had an ok 60 foot as well.
 

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So here is something interesting that I never really knew before. While reading my Solstice Performance book last night about how to increase steering angles for drifting, I read they used a Cadillac STS V differential case to handle the 500+ whp of the engine they were putting in and that it was a drop in replacement.

I have been trying to find what makes the STS V differential so special compared to the factory Kappa or Cadillac CTS differential. No luck so far.
What's "special" is the gear ratio. They use the same case, which is what makes it drop-in. Taller gear ratio gear boxes are just stronger by default.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's what performance auto werks told me so I got the 3.91 gearing that supposedly accelerates faster and is stronger.
 

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That's what performance auto werks told me so I got the 3.91 gearing that supposedly accelerates faster and is stronger.
That would be correct for acceleration, but backwards for strength. The 3.91:1 used in the NA Kappa is the weakest, I believe the CTS-V has a 3.45:1, and it is available with a 2.73:1 as its tallest (and strongest) option.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hmmm they said it would put less load on everything because of gear effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is the final gear what makes the na rear end weak? Everything else in this diff is new from a redline diff. Are you saying that by performance autowerks putting in the 3.91 they've made my new rear diff weaker?
 

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Is the final gear what makes the na rear end weak? Everything else in this diff is new from a redline diff. Are you saying that by performance autowerks putting in the 3.91 they've made my new rear diff weaker?
I am saying that, based on my memory, if you look at the spec sheet from Getrag you will see that the 3.91 is rated for less torque (or power, I don't remember which) than a 3.73.

I do not have the specs in front of me, but I will have them tonight and will post the datasheet.
 
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