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I don't know enough about this to contradict you, I just can't quite grasp the mechanics of it. I assume that the RL didn't have a ProBeam? My NA with a ProBeam was more stable that the RL before I added one to it, and both had what i would describe as a wriggle before I installed it, although it also showed up when transitioning in and out of turns.
My first car did it without the ProBeam and my current car does it with and without. Definitely an improvement with the ProBeam. I have drove an RL with and without the ProBeam...both were far more stable under those conditions.

Like I said, have no idea whether or not what we were told was true...just what we were told and what I've experienced.
 

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My first car did it without the ProBeam and my current car does it with and without. Definitely an improvement with the ProBeam. I have drove an RL with and without the ProBeam...both were far more stable under those conditions.

Like I said, have no idea whether or not what we were told was true...just what we were told and what I've experienced.
It certainly seems to be true, I just haven't been able to understand why it works. Clearly more study is needed.
 

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Just as an aside, I think that the Probeam is the single most important modification you can make to one of these cars.
I Installed the Pro Beam first, without the backbone brace and drove my Sky that way for about a year.
To me, it was a night and day difference. Significantly increased the ability of the rear wheels to put the power to the pavement.

I agree completely with your statement. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
I Installed the Pro Beam first, without the backbone brace and drove my Sky that way for about a year.
To me, it was a night and day difference. Significantly increased the ability of the rear wheels to put the power to the pavement.

I agree completely with your statement. :cheers:
I'm almost thinking mine doesn't have to torque arm, but diff bracket (the new diff Im getting comes with the four bolt bracket). Would the pro beam help me with regard to wheel hop?

Just read Robo's and Jon's replies...I'll just have that extra nose bracket with my diff, and they will have to take it off to bolt it to the torque arm then.
 

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To me, I felt like I could put my HP down to the pavement better. It really makes the point where the diff connects more solid and from a dead stop, It seemed to hook better and in turns, under hard acceleration, it eliminated wheel spin I used to have before it.

There is a reason the SCCA winning Solstice's had a similar beam. It works.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
To me, I felt like I could put my HP down to the pavement better. It really makes the point where the diff connects more solid and from a dead stop, It seemed to hook better and in turns, under hard acceleration, it eliminated wheel spin I used to have before it.

There is a reason the SCCA winning Solstice's had a similar beam. It works.
That definitely might be the next thing I do then (after the new diff gets buttoned up.

I'm also going to try to work on launching with the 2 step and 4000rpms but introducing a slight slip on the initial hit to keep rpms up and not to shock the diff....
 

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Ssky btw that's a he'll of a time with a 2.1 60. Come to Cecil you could get that 60 in the 1.8 area and get deep in the 12s!
I went again to the track to test my new to me summer tires, Nitto 555 extreme. This time I was able to launch at 2k without too much wheel spin, but my 60' did not improve. I was able to beat my time 12.59 @ 113.27 mph, 60' 2.155 , DA was lower at 2500
 

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Sounds like on the first pass you may have spun after the 60' while in the second one you didn't. A DA difference of 200 feet shouldn't increase the ET by 0.20 seconds. 800' would, but not 200'. Either that or if you're running a manual you may have had some better shifts.
 

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on my 12.789 pass i launched at 1k rpm, the biggest differences on my best pass were that I launched at 2k rpm and my trans was also tuned
 

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Discussion Starter #54
And naturally, get the diff all buttoned up and take the car out to datalog for Trifecta (which means had to do a few WOT pulls). Notice smoking from the engine bay. Pull the car up to the ouse and notice oil dripping and smoke coming from the turbo area. Now I assume I have the oil feed line of drain line blown now leaking oil. Have the car back for a day, and now I'm taking the car back to the shop again!!!!

I will say....It was dark so I didn't get a chance to actually look the bay over but the engine started right up with no misses and (best I could tell...oil wasn't coming out of the exhaust)...Also on the way back to my mechanic's I went wot and it still pulled hard so I'm guessing the turbo isn't blown...

I'd assume it's still going to cost me another $200 on top of the $2700 I just paid...
 
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