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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody else have issues with their rear defogger tabs breaking off? I was cleaning the rear window yesterday and the tab broke off. Obviously there wasn’t that much force involved so I’m not sure if the solder had weakened overtime and the slight jostle was enough to separate, or if there is an underlying problem. I know this is a common issue on hatchbacks and SUV’s, but with the way our tops operate I didn't think there was too much stress on these. I’ve already ordered a kit to reattach and we’ll see how that goes, I’ve never actually used the rear defogger before, so I have no idea if it even worked prior and I’ve only used my rear defoggers a couple of times ever in my other cars, but I still like everything to work as it should.
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I am not offering a repair, only a comment that I have the Rear Window Defroster too. It is nice to have, only for the reason to be "fully optioned" for resale purposes. But I don't like the RWD option in this car. I feel it is useless and unsightly. GM would have better spent that money on other things like dual horns, and improved interior lighting.

RWD serves no practical purpose in a Sky or Solstice. Frost would never form on this vertical window, with a small awning, and snow melt.....well.....who would drive a Sky in a snow storm? Any whipped-around snow accumulation and humidity would quickly clear away via the windshield defroster.

I hope you are able to figure out how to reattach it so your Sky is all good again. I fear the use of a heat gun and solder would shatter the windshield. I wonder if a conductive adhesive is available.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Living in Texas it's pretty much useless, but like I said, I like to have everything working as it should. As I understand it, when the factory applied the defroster grid and tabs they applied heat evenly to the whole window. Since I'm not able to apply that application I went with a Permatex product similar to a rear view mirror mounting adhesive that is also conductive. Reviews were mixed on Amazon, but since it's a $15 fix it's worth a shot.

I agree on the interior lights and double horn statement, I added that double horn not long after purchase in May. Plug and play more or less if you're interested.
 

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........ As I understand it, when the factory applied the defroster grid and tabs they applied heat evenly to the whole window. ........
When we apply them to new glass during production we use a 1950s-looking straight soldering iron with a custom-formed tip. The glass is not heated.

I am not saying that you won't shatter the glass if you repair it that way, but I have never seen it happen in production.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When we apply them to new glass during production we use a 1950s-looking straight soldering iron with a custom-formed tip. The glass is not heated.

I am not saying that you won't shatter the glass if you repair it that way, but I have never seen it happen in production.
Interesting, I had always heard when applying heat to glass you must apply evenly to avoid breaking. Guess I was wrong, I will defer to your knowledge as the subject matter expert. Since I have already purchased the adhesive kit I'll try that first, if that fails I could try re-soldering. I read some posts online where others used a damp towel on the opposite side of glass to dissipate the heat from the iron, but didn't want to risk breaking the glass over a broken tab.
 

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Interesting, I had always heard when applying heat to glass you must apply evenly to avoid breaking. Guess I was wrong, I will defer to your knowledge as the subject matter expert. Since I have already purchased the adhesive kit I'll try that first, if that fails I could try re-soldering. I read some posts online where others used a damp towel on the opposite side of glass to dissipate the heat from the iron, but didn't want to risk breaking the glass over a broken tab.
If your soldering iron has enough power and is the right temperature it takes well under a second to flow the solder from the clip to the thin silver ceramic pad on the glass. If you are heating the area enough to get the back side of the glass even warm you are doing it wrong.
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I'm in the same boat, reading reviews on all these repair kits is pretty comical, one says it works and the other says it doesn't, who do you believe? One guy also recommended soldering, let us know how it goes :)
 

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The defrost connection was broken while I had the windows cleaned during a carwash. The owner of the carwash sent someone to my house to repair it. A conductive adhesive was used. The results were marginal. All heating elements except for one would heat as could be observed during window defrosting. So it worked, but I assume he may not have properly cleaned the non-working element or contacted the other side of the gap.
 

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UGH!!! Good luck. My dad's came off his convertible Mustang, on both sides. Took it to the dealer, they said they wouldn't even touch it, that he needed a new back glass...$1500+installation of $1500 for a convertible. So he's tried everything. I have a high temp soldering iron (1000w IMSMC) that I was using to build my drag-slot chassis' and it wouldn't even do the trick. We also tried the adhesive kits to no avail.... You only get one chance with the adhesive kit. We gave up! Let me know if you get it stuck back on!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still no word on the repair kit as it hasn't arrived yet. Amazon says Monday delivery, I guess I could of spent a few bucks more and bought locally at O'reilly's. However if it fails, I may not need to worry about that. I found someone in town selling a black convertible top from a Solstice. I have a tan top in OK condition, but I've never quite been happy with the tan top/bluestone color combo. I'm still waiting to hear back on the condition of the black top before I get too excited though. Pictures look like it might be OK, just dirty.
 

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I am not offering a repair, only a comment that I have the Rear Window Defroster too. It is nice to have, only for the reason to be "fully optioned" for resale purposes. But I don't like the RWD option in this car. I feel it is useless and unsightly. GM would have better spent that money on other things like dual horns, and improved interior lighting.

RWD serves no practical purpose in a Sky or Solstice. Frost would never form on this vertical window, with a small awning, and snow melt.....well.....who would drive a Sky in a snow storm? Any whipped-around snow accumulation and humidity would quickly clear away via the windshield defroster.

I hope you are able to figure out how to reattach it so your Sky is all good again. I fear the use of a heat gun and solder would shatter the windshield. I wonder if a conductive adhesive is available.
Sir, i could not disagree more. You obviously do not live anywhere truly humid.
I'm in Missouri, and up until the tab on mine broke off, i used it constantly.
Basically if i run the AC in my car EVERYTHING fogs up completely because we live in a constantly 90% or more humidity level. The rear window is the worst, with no way to defog it. The heat through the window defogs it nicely without adding heat back into the car.
Now moving to winter, let me correct your assumption of frost and ice wont form on the vertical window. It does. Everyday here.
I think i have pictures somewhere posted, or ill try and find them. But let me promise you, the first time you go out in the morning to the entire car frozen solid, the ability to defrost the rear window is a nice one. because i dont care how long i have the heat blasting in the car, that window never unfreezes in our air temps of 20* or lower.

The rear defroster is a must have option for my area, i only wish they had also tied it to heated door mirrors like my Canadian model CR-Z had. That was the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I picked up that black top this morning for cheap. It's off a Sol, but it has the headliner. It's complete and in pretty good shape other than the top is either stained or faded (I'm not sure yet, I tried a mild detergent and a pressure washer and it's still there.) and the rear window is separating about an inch wide section from the top. I found the TSB fix for the rear window here via search and that seems pretty simple to fix, but I'm not too sure what to try on restoring the top. Any suggestions? Also, I may have a tan top available soon if I'm able to restore the black top back to black.
 

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Sir, i could not disagree more. You obviously do not live anywhere truly humid.
I'm in Missouri, and up until the tab on mine broke off, i used it constantly.
Basically if i run the AC in my car EVERYTHING fogs up completely because we live in a constantly 90% or more humidity level. The rear window is the worst, with no way to defog it. The heat through the window defogs it nicely without adding heat back into the car.
Now moving to winter, let me correct your assumption of frost and ice wont form on the vertical window. It does. Everyday here.
I think i have pictures somewhere posted, or ill try and find them. But let me promise you, the first time you go out in the morning to the entire car frozen solid, the ability to defrost the rear window is a nice one. because i dont care how long i have the heat blasting in the car, that window never unfreezes in our air temps of 20* or lower.

The rear defroster is a must have option for my area, i only wish they had also tied it to heated door mirrors like my Canadian model CR-Z had. That was the best.
And so I stand corrected.
 

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When I stated earlier that one broken element was not repaired properly and does not work, I want to make it clear that the entire tab was broken off and all but one element was repaired. That is why I stated that the repair was marginal. The conductive adhesive works, but the repair requires precision.
 

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When I stated earlier that one broken element was not repaired properly and does not work, I want to make it clear that the entire tab was broken off and all but one element was repaired. That is why I stated that the repair was marginal. The conductive adhesive works, but the repair requires precision.
The one non-functional element is likely to have been caused by someone scraping the silver ceramic off of the glass, and is not something that would normally have to be dealt with when a connector tab is replaced.

The defogging grid is a metallic silver & ceramic frit ink that is printed onto the glass and then fired into it when the glass is heated prior to being quench-toughened. It is pretty durable, but the thin lines can be cut or scraped off by a razor blade or window scraper. The conductive adhesive can sometimes be used to bridge the gap of a broken line, but it is not a sure repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Reporting back on the tab repair: I used the Permatex kit as described and it appears to have worked flawlessly. It's a pretty simple repair and most car owners should be able to accomplish with little effort. Now time will tell how well it holds, but for now I'm pleased.
 
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