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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Check yo' hub flange bolts!

Always had noises from this front drivers side wheel for three years, and a loose steering center point with a clank you could feel in steering. Chalked it up to being a GM vehicle quirk, as none of the links seemed to be worn, from steering linkage down to tie-rods.

  • Took to shop for complete inspection, with this issue at forefront
  • Changed brakes (rotor is now grooved within 500 miles)
  • Even changed wheels for other reasons.
  • Brake pedal would have different engagements seemingly randomly, and had been getting worse.
Noticed the brake shield was loose and making noises over bumps these past 500 miles, thought maybe rusted, but it's pretty pristine.
Car got really squirrely half a mile from the house, slowly rolled in and stopped.

Finally bought a jack and jack stands to check out myself. O. M. G. (Video) :willy:

https://imgur.com/a/uvQgkX5

Looks like a M12 1.75 45mm grade 10.9 flange bolt is missing, I was able to take the remaining 2 off by hand!!!
Are these supposed to have split washers or locktite to keep from backing out?

Hoping these will arrive and fit today, they seem a tad longer (50mm) and have a 13mm head instead of 15mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD2ZZY/
 

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There is a checklist posted over on the Solstice forum that has to do with all things NEED to KNOW about these cars. A periodic check of those hub bolts is on that list. Rob the Elder I believe is the author of that check list. That is usually a topic that is discussed at the annual conventions too. It was last year in Denver. You can do a forum search and find the list. Having been around since November 2016, I'm sure you know how to search the forums. :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks 44thSky, I don't check the solstice forum, maybe I should. I had assumed this was due to a bad wheel-bearing, or steering component. Don't usually work on cars anymore.

85ftlbs +, and loctite. Check. Hope the 13mm can handle that much torque, stock is 15mm.

Here is the checklist in case someone else needs it. I think I saw before but glossed over as it initially just looked like standard lugnut check stuff.

https://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f11/kappa-checklist-review-comment-89802/
 

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Very good a280z. I don't suppose your handle really has anything to do with a Nissan 280Z, but does remind me of when I had a 300ZX. Was white on white and nice T top roof and tan interior. Kind of a fast car, but not so up against my GXP Coupe. Could never keep rotors on that ZX after about 7,000 miles use ...... it was either have them trued-up (turned) again or get new rotors ...... got tired of it and just sold the car.

On these Kappa cars, the few items I learned early on from this forum (when I started with the NA SKY) was:
1) never close the hood with the doors open (will hit)
2) never allow the car to be lifted without covering where the lift points exist (installed the permanent BMW pucks)
3) never close the convertible lock handle as the top goes into the trunk (will bend the lock mechanism)
4) be damn careful using the passenger side center console cup holder (best policy, forget it is there)
:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First car was a 280z (Datsun), then had a 240z, and about 7 Talon's, eclipses, and dodge stealths.

Used to build then race this Twin Engine Talon until we had kids - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HB5Qp1RcGHI

I hit the back of my head picking up a bolt during a frustrating timing belt job (guide marking plate was worn so would never line up), and just stopped working on cars that day after many years of really being involved. Sold everything, bought newer vehicles that "I didn't have to wrench on all the time".

Of all the cars, the Saturn Sky feels closest to my Datsun 240z while being modern.

Good points! Knew about the door operation, and added the checklist to favorites. Ironic that I have a car that unknowingly until recently needs so much checked lol.
Convertible top - Did not know that, however seems to operate fine.
Passenger side cup holder - too late, was broken when I got it.
 

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The checklist is deceiving. I may be the exception, but in 105k miles with an NA and 20k out of 85k miles with a used RL I have checked a lot of things, but had to actually fix almost none of them. I have found mine to be as reliable as anything else I have owned.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
These Dorman 917-503 bolts don't work without modification on the Kappa's, even though they are used in so many other GM vehicles from the time period.
They are about 3-4mm too long and will bind against the hub or lug nut heads just before they get tight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWD2ZZY/
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-77033-917-503.aspx

The shoulder is fine, wider than stock. The head is only 13mm vs stock 15mm.
Correct torque of 87# can be applied provided you use 13mm air tool sockets (6 point preferred vs 12point)

If you have time, order and get the correct bolts from GM or NAPA, but if in a pinch you can still use these:
  1. Use a dremel grinder disc and cut off 3 threads
  2. Then chamfer the edges so you get a clean engagement of threads.
  3. Hand tighten a bit, then back off, remove, and inspect for material binding.
  4. Clean off threads, and torque down starting at 60 ft/lb, and ending at 87 ft/lb.
  5. Check if wheel spins freely.
Check all other corners on the car, one was loose on passenger front wheel too, but not by much.
 

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Use the OEM bolts.

These bolts are NOT loc-tited from the factory. Why, I don't know. It's common enough to have this happen that they should be checked regularly.

When I went to sticky tires and started autocrossing. Mine started to come loose around that time and were much in the same condition as yours are.

I got the one new OEM bolt, put blue loc-tite on all of them, and reinstalled the loose ones and the one new one. I then took out every other hub bolt on the car, one at a time, loc-tited it, and reinstalled it torquing to spec.
 

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I wanna make perfectly sure that I am clear on the bolts we are talking about....so I took the OP's pic and modified it (with white circles). Are the circled areas the bolts we are talking about?

20190420_191122_HDR.jpg
 

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The lower two are right, the upper one is your caliper bracket bolt.

if you look at that picture again, you'll see a hole on the right side of the picture where you can see what looks like a wear mark around it like it had a bolt there. THAT is the third bolt. His is mising. The big round object below the two lower bolts is the hub that these three bolts are securing. I've attached a picture where the three bolts are/should be.
 

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