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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,
We made another video! This time we walk through the coolant bleed procedure that we use here, which is taken from the GM tech manual. While customers have been doing our 2871 turbo upgrade they had some questions about the proper way to bleed the cooling system. This will also help if you had to replace the water pump, thermostat, or installed some other larger turbo. Let us know if you have any other questions or suggestions for other videos.


-Mr. Burns
[email protected]
 

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I have bookmark this post.
If you have not seen this VID you need to.
A great post thank you DDMWorks and all.
LLLFLY
 

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More Videos Mr. Burns!!! A video on clutch, water pump and turbo change for the DIYers would be freakin awesome!!! Thanks so much for this.
 

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Hey Dave I have a thought

First, love the video but I think there are a couple things you might want to mention or make a separate video.
First It looks like you put 1 gallon of coolant in. The cars take a little over 8 quarts or 2 gallons. The Engine and tank take that but the complete system as you know takes twice that.
Because 4 cylinders are so very prone to air locks in the coolant system that I have seen take up to a hour to get it all out. You might want to make another video for when you completely drain the system as if you were changing the radiator. I know gravity take care of most of it but if someone for some reason drains the radiator but only puts in 1 gallon its not going to be enough. Just a thought. :)
When the dealer changed mine they have a vacuum system that sucks all the air and coolant out and gives the system a negative pressure so when it goes back in it fills everything. Its really cool.:thumbs:
 

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Is this as complicated on the NAs?
 

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how about a coolant draining video? also where do you bring coolant to be disposed of?
 

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Coolant level too high (?)

So I added some Redline WaterWetter to my reservoir today... course I forgot to REMOVE some coolant prior to. Now the level is about .75" above the level line. Should I be concerned? I could just syphon off the extra I guess, but I'm not sure the WaterWetter has mixed into the system yet. Does the coolant cycle through the reservoir when running? Or is that just an overflow that basically sits stagnant until it's needed? Took a 15 mile drive to test temp... no real change good OR bad.
Is that stuff just another snake oil thing?
Thanks!
 

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So I added some Redline WaterWetter to my reservoir today... course I forgot to REMOVE some coolant prior to. Now the level is about .75" above the level line. Should I be concerned? I could just syphon off the extra I guess, but I'm not sure the WaterWetter has mixed into the system yet. Does the coolant cycle through the reservoir when running? Or is that just an overflow that basically sits stagnant until it's needed? Took a 15 mile drive to test temp... no real change good OR bad.
Is that stuff just another snake oil thing?
Thanks!
Water wetter is good when added to plain water. When added to Dexcool, not so much. Maybe a couple of degrees improvement max.

Won't hurt, except for money wasted.
 

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I changed out my coolant yesterday. I was unable to get gravity to pull the coolant through until it came out of the top of the head, so I had to put some pressure behind the coolant in the overflow to make that happen. It rained today, so I'll drive it soon to make sure it's up to capacity.
 

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Do you guys happen to have one for bleeding the brake lines?
i can not stress enough how much this company helps with bleeding the brakes. i have their bleeder and will never use another product unless its better lol which i doubt will happen. might be a little pricey at first but itll last a lifetime. easiest way to bleed the brakes by far and its only a one person job.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/
 

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i can not stress enough how much this company helps with bleeding the brakes. i have their bleeder and will never use another product unless its better lol which i doubt will happen. might be a little pricey at first but itll last a lifetime. easiest way to bleed the brakes by far and its only a one person job.

Motive Products #1 Selling DIY Brake Bleeder
I like! So does ours use kit 0108/0118 with the 1108/1118 adapter or kit 0100/0109 with the 1100/1109 adapter? Also, I "thought" that one of the peculiarities of our Kappa's was that the same fluid that stops the car also enables our clutch. If that's the case, does this method cause any issues with or are there other steps to take in bleeding refilling the entire system?
 

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i think i have the 1100 adapter, the european one, because the normal gm one doesnt fit. i had to send mine back for the 1100 because of this.

i havent had any issues since i bled the brakes and i have a manual tranny so id say it doesnt cause any problems. all youre doing is pushing new, good fluid through the system so i dont see how it would cause a problem. this system is set up to NOT push any air into the lines. if done correctly the longest part of bleeding the brakes is getting the car up, that is if you dont have a vehicle lift.
 

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i think i have the 1100 adapter, the european one, because the normal gm one doesnt fit. i had to send mine back for the 1100 because of this.

i havent had any issues since i bled the brakes and i have a manual tranny so id say it doesnt cause any problems. all youre doing is pushing new, good fluid through the system so i dont see how it would cause a problem. this system is set up to NOT push any air into the lines. if done correctly the longest part of bleeding the brakes is getting the car up, that is if you dont have a vehicle lift.
Any idea how much the system holds, or perhaps a better question would be how much dot3/4 did you go through to ensure your system was adequately flushed and clean?
 

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i think its a gallon jug that comes with the kit and the car takes less than 32oz (normal size of a brake fluid container). i used more than a can (i think 32oz) of super blue racing brake fluid because i messed up the first time and had to reflush it but it shouldnt use more than a can or 32oz if done correctly to completely flush out the old used fluid.

you pretty much just keep flushing until you dont see anymore old fluid and its really easy if you use the blue because its blue and not brown and easy to distinguish when it changes colors, makes sense huh lol.
 

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i think its a gallon jug that comes with the kit and the car takes less than 32oz (normal size of a brake fluid container). i used more than a can (i think 32oz) of super blue racing brake fluid because i messed up the first time and had to reflush it but it shouldnt use more than a can or 32oz if done correctly to completely flush out the old used fluid.

you pretty much just keep flushing until you dont see anymore old fluid and its really easy if you use the blue because its blue and not brown and easy to distinguish when it changes colors, makes sense huh lol.
Dot4 super blue?
 
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