Saturn Sky Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Just wanna be sure I'm not missing something and be sure. Yes I have checked as many old threads as I care to. Here it is. Water pump replaced 8,000 miles ago. No leaks. Normally the sky 2.4 runs 190° to 200°> Live in Florida. Today was about 97 in the sun and in traffic, AC on, stop and go it climbs to 219 over time. I stop at a store for 7 min, get in and start it and it reads 225° which quickly dropped to about 210° when I got moving. My mechanic is certified and has worked at several dealerships for a long time. He says that General motors built these cars to run between 200 and 230 And I should not worry about this. What are your thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,292 Posts
I am no sure it is quite that high, but the fan does not run at full speed until the temp reaches 220. I have seen temperatures right at 219 in SoCal when temps are nearing the 100 degree area. I would not worry about it much sir.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I am no sure it is quite that high, but the fan does not run at full speed until the temp reaches 220. I have seen temperatures right at 219 in SoCal when temps are nearing the 100 degree area. I would not worry about it much sir.
I appreciate the come back. I have a decent amount invested in this car to bring it up to snuff after years of apparent neglect and heaven knows what so, if nothing else I want to protect my investment. Its my DD and I love it and being able to tap into the knowledge here is priceless. Thank you.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,238 Posts
Today was about 97 in the sun and in traffic, AC on, stop and go it climbs to 219 over time. I stop at a store for 7 min, get in and start it and it reads 225° which quickly dropped to about 210° when I got moving. My mechanic is certified and has worked at several dealerships for a long time. He says that General motors built these cars to run between 200 and 230 And I should not worry about this.
Totally normal and I believe him. The reason you see that spike up to 225 is because where the sensor is in the car. It's in the thermostat housing at the back of the engine. When you park the car, excess heat moves from the engine to the coolant tube and thermostat housing which runs directly under the exhaust manifold to the rear of the engine. Since the car isn't moving, the temp at the coolant temp sensor rises because it can't remove the heat from that location since it is no longer circulating.

When you get back in the car, the coolant starts moving again and now the temp sensor will see the coolant that had been hanging out in the radiator, getting heat removed from it, and the temp drops down to a temp lower than what you had seen while driving.

I am no sure it is quite that high, but the fan does not run at full speed until the temp reaches 220. I have seen temperatures right at 219 in SoCal when temps are nearing the 100 degree area. I would not worry about it much sir.
When we were going up S6 at Palomar last year with the San Diego group, I don't think one car was running below 230...15 cars, NA and Turbo, mid 90s and no one had their AC on going up that steep grade with some gusto. LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Mine fluctuates quite a lot too it seems.......I'm not sure that reading is accurate (on mine) ....it dances QUICKLY between 190 to 197 to 205, back to 190, etc.
As long as it does not stay over 200 for an extended period I will not worry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
At freeway speeds or a good clip it hangs about 190-195. Now this is in summer in Florida. When I get into stop and go and its 90° to 95° with AC going it will crawl up to 113-120. If I cut the AC it drops but thats brutal in the heat. Not tryin to be a fraid-e-cat but I would not want to burn anything or ruin something from overheating. I have never had a car that I have had to worry about that but the Sky. Is the car just built that cheap or wrong or just odd?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
There is nothing cheap or wrong. It is designed to run at that temperature. Did your previous vehicle have a digital temperature or an analog gauge?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
There is nothing cheap or wrong. It is designed to run at that temperature. Did your previous vehicle have a digital temperature or an analog gauge?
Analog. So It was not as accurate. I don't mean to make a bigger deal out of this than it is. This is one of the coolest cars I have ever owned and I would like to keep it for many years. I was reading some of the earlier posts talking about engine coolant temperature and it seemed they were running between 190 and 205. Some of the guys say there's car very rarely gets above 205 maybe 210. Probably being overcautious but that is where I am right now.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,759 Posts
Analog. So It was not as accurate. I don't mean to make a bigger deal out of this than it is. This is one of the coolest cars I have ever owned and I would like to keep it for many years. I was reading some of the earlier posts talking about engine coolant temperature and it seemed they were running between 190 and 205. Some of the guys say there's car very rarely gets above 205 maybe 210. Probably being overcautious but that is where I am right now.
I absolutely agree with everything here. It is among the coolest, I want to keep mine around for a long time too, and over-cautious is better than not caring enough. Just don't stress yourself out about it. And, as you know, knowledge is power.

That said, I think the digital temperature indicator is in general a source of excessive stress for a lot of people. The green range of an analog gauge is probably 20 degrees F, but now people tend to worry over a 5 degree variance. It is just the nature of the way we think, since in our minds, the more precise our display the more accurate we want the reading.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
854 Posts
Nah... you're ok there MB. Yes it is a concern when we as owners see the temp rise, that odd noise or shake from our cars.
Better to be safe than sorry, or in some cases left stranded on the road side, hood up, steam rising from your engine bay.
No cell phone service, not a soul on the road for miles, and in your case there MB, the odd Gator strolling across the roadway 20 yards from where your stranded. Sucks to be you!

While it is true our cars do tend to run, a little hotter than some/most cars past or present is still can be a shock to see the temp gauge rise. The expense for high temps, from the WP replacement, thermostat, radiator, fluid, hoses $$$ to other issues that
could cause.. motor damage.

For me, seeing it rise to 214 in the DIC came as a shock. However when considering the outside temps, the up hill grade I was on, after about 3 minute idle down/cool down at the top with no air flow, it was back to normal at 195.
Any change to the fan speed, and or the climate control, one or two clicks results in 2 degree temp change in the DIC sometimes in my car. Your results may vary.

The day I bought my Sky was hot 97 degrees, humidity off the charts. So while driving the 100 miles to get the Sky in my HHR, sitting in early morning traffic, the temp rose to 217. Sound familiar? GM designed the coolant/radiator in the HHR had me worry some. In the Sky on the return trip home,... top up, A/C going the temp during the hwy cruise home, no temp increase. When I got home.. things were different. 205..207..209 wth? 2 minutes later 195 sitting still. No air flow is no air flow, and imo our cars needs the air flow.

In the Turbo version, it creates more heat in the engine bay with little to no relief with exhaust for this heat to remove it's self.
The hood on our cars has those fake vents, which could help this out. Some of our owners have " altered " these vents to let heat
out of the engine bay. The fake side vents again here could be used for air flow through the engine bay. They designed it to be there, IF the owner wanted this later on, but during production the cost for making these vents work was not in the cards or price. Even in the bottom feeder radiator on our cars this would not be a problem. With the turbo model, with the IC in the way, less air flow to the radiator is still a question. 214 is my highest temp in the Sky.

IF... your having/seeing higher than normal temps in the DIC, how fast does it return to normal in the DIC with no air flow? With in 2 minutes? More? How long does the fan run on after shut down? 30 seconds? 3 minutes? Is there any sign in the expansion tank of a change in the fluid level? How much? IF these change drastically for you in a short period of time 2 weeks maybe here, then I'd worry some. Changes in the DIC temps not so much worry for me anymore. Your fear is warranted here over your investment in your joy. We all have that same feeling when something on our baby isn't to our liking.

LAC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Analog. So It was not as accurate. I don't mean to make a bigger deal out of this than it is. This is one of the coolest cars I have ever owned and I would like to keep it for many years. I was reading some of the earlier posts talking about engine coolant temperature and it seemed they were running between 190 and 205. Some of the guys say there's car very rarely gets above 205 maybe 210. Probably being overcautious but that is where I am right now.
I absolutely agree with everything here. It is among the coolest, I want to keep mine around for a long time too, and over-cautious is better than not caring enough. Just don't stress yourself out about it. And, as you know, knowledge is power.

That said, I think the digital temperature indicator is in general a source of excessive stress for a lot of people. The green range of an analog gauge is probably 20 degrees F, but now people tend to worry over a 5 degree variance. It is just the nature of the way we think, since in our minds, the more precise our display the more accurate we want the reading.
Nah... you're ok there MB. Yes it is a concern when we as owners see the temp rise, that odd noise or shake from our cars.
Better to be safe than sorry, or in some cases left stranded on the road side, hood up, steam rising from your engine bay.
No cell phone service, not a soul on the road for miles, and in your case there MB, the odd Gator strolling across the roadway 20 yards from where your stranded. Sucks to be you!

While it is true our cars do tend to run, a little hotter than some/most cars past or present is still can be a shock to see the temp gauge rise. The expense for high temps, from the WP replacement, thermostat, radiator, fluid, hoses $$$ to other issues that
could cause.. motor damage.

For me, seeing it rise to 214 in the DIC came as a shock. However when considering the outside temps, the up hill grade I was on, after about 3 minute idle down/cool down at the top with no air flow, it was back to normal at 195.
Any change to the fan speed, and or the climate control, one or two clicks results in 2 degree temp change in the DIC sometimes in my car. Your results may vary.

The day I bought my Sky was hot 97 degrees, humidity off the charts. So while driving the 100 miles to get the Sky in my HHR, sitting in early morning traffic, the temp rose to 217. Sound familiar? GM designed the coolant/radiator in the HHR had me worry some. In the Sky on the return trip home,... top up, A/C going the temp during the hwy cruise home, no temp increase. When I got home.. things were different. 205..207..209 wth? 2 minutes later 195 sitting still. No air flow is no air flow, and imo our cars needs the air flow.

In the Turbo version, it creates more heat in the engine bay with little to no relief with exhaust for this heat to remove it's self.
The hood on our cars has those fake vents, which could help this out. Some of our owners have " altered " these vents to let heat
out of the engine bay. The fake side vents again here could be used for air flow through the engine bay. They designed it to be there, IF the owner wanted this later on, but during production the cost for making these vents work was not in the cards or price. Even in the bottom feeder radiator on our cars this would not be a problem. With the turbo model, with the IC in the way, less air flow to the radiator is still a question. 214 is my highest temp in the Sky.

IF... your having/seeing higher than normal temps in the DIC, how fast does it return to normal in the DIC with no air flow? With in 2 minutes? More? How long does the fan run on after shut down? 30 seconds? 3 minutes? Is there any sign in the expansion tank of a change in the fluid level? How much? IF these change drastically for you in a short period of time 2 weeks maybe here, then I'd worry some. Changes in the DIC temps not so much worry for me anymore. Your fear is warranted here over your investment in your joy. We all have that same feeling when something on our baby isn't to our liking.

LAC
When the air flow resumes it only takes maybe 15-20 sec to start to drop. Like I said I am probably making more of this than needs be. Just being cautious and thank you. BTW My fan does not continue to run after shut down that I am aware of. I don't believe I have ever heard it continue to run after shut down. Maybe an issue I need to address?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,238 Posts
I don't like my temps going up to 230 and in the heat of the So Cal desert in summer (we can see 114 degrees in stop and go traffic) it can still climb from there.

I have a dual pass radiator going into mine from PAW and a cooler thermostat to try and keep those temps down. 170-190 is where I want her with the new turbo setup so we'll see how it does but anything under 200 in 114 degree heat and in traffic will be a win.

I have both functional hood and fender vents. It takes longer for her to heat up in traffic and it sheds heat very quickly when you start moving but sitting still they can't do much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
These discussions have been really helpful...I'm a new owner of a 2007 base in Florida...( I live in Ohio most of the time so I've been like a kid who knows what they're getting for Christmas but has to wait to get it )

anyway mine got up to about to about 213 one day and I was getting concerned.... so I've been reading up on eveyone's experiences..

I just changed the antifreeze and installed a bleed valve in the line....I think I've got the air out but will give it another test when I'm there in two weeks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Before I changed the coolant with fresh Dexcool, it would run 208-215 all the time. This was in 50 degree weather on up. After changing the coolant, it is 205-210. Occasionally it'll drop to 203 for a couple of seconds and return back up.

I am going to replace the thermostat with a new 180 and a drilled hole. Wondering if I should change the sensor also? Could it be the sensor that is the problem for the wide range that people are seeing? I would love for mine to get down another 10 degrees for the norm.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,238 Posts
It helps with many things. Engine temp, underhood temp, less pulling of timing, cooler IAT, consistency, etc. I'd run it even lower if I could. Cooler water temps never hurt me as long as the oil temp was fine.
That's my goal. Lower coolant temps also help with keeping lower cylinder temps which helps prevent KR.

I'm dropping down to a drilled 160 t-stat and a dual pass radiator. Figure she'll run 165-190...settling in at 170-175...or rather I hope she does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
MB, I am up the road from you in the Tampa area..... as you know we are having local temperatures above 90 degrees......my 2.4 2009 sky is running just like yours, but that's to be expected......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
That's my goal. Lower coolant temps also help with keeping lower cylinder temps which helps prevent KR.

I'm dropping down to a drilled 160 t-stat and a dual pass radiator. Figure she'll run 165-190...settling in at 170-175...or rather I hope she does.
Where did you find a 160 t-stat?
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top