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Discussion Starter #1
Was hoping for a black Friday deal on the brace bundle, but didn't see it happen.

What I did notice was the individual parts were all on sale! Instead of $444.00 for the bundle, your total is $404 for the 3 items in the bundle purchased separately.

Sign up for an account, and you get free shipping on your first order (I've ordered before but never bothered with the account creation). I added the replacement bolts for the backbone brace in case mine are rusty.

DDM-12-18-red Solstice/Sky LVFCB "Venom Brace" by DDMWorks
Color:: Red
Installing on 2.4L with Stock intake?: No
$99.00 x 1
$99.00
thumbnail image DDM-07-019 DDMWorks ProBeam for Solstice / Sky
$147.00 x 1
$147.00
thumbnail image DDM-8-9-P Solstice / Sky Backbone Brace by DDMWorks
Choose your brace: Performance 3/8", solid (Recommended) - $50.00
$158.00 x 1
$158.00
thumbnail image DDM-8-9-bolts Replacement bolts for DDMWorks Backbone brace
$6.75 x 1
$6.75

Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving. :cheers:

Vinny
 

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The Probeam is a bargain and the basic 1/4" Backbone is probably fine for street. The other front brace is a refinement with a small improvement that you could always do later if you wanted to.


For $147 (Probeam) + $108 (Backbone) it is a mod that anyone that enjoys handling has to have.
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Got this kit installed today (well just the 3/8" backbone and probeam), after watching Mike Martin's excellent video guide

I recommend setting aside 2 hours to do both, and getting an 8mm drill bit, 6mm or similar pilot hole drill bit, and some blue loctite for the backbone bolts.
You only need a 13mm spanner and deep socket, and extension.


  1. Put wheel chocks on the front wheels so it doesn't roll, lift from the rear control arm, and put jackstands down under both front of the rear control arms (flat plate). Check to make sure wheel chocks are still touching the front wheels.
  2. Spray some WD40/PBlaster on the 4 rear exhaust hangers, slip them off, and let the muffler sit on a sturdy 5-8" box so it doesn't create too much stress at the flex point up front.
  3. Wear some safety glasses, and loosen all the bolts. Take off all but 2 of the bolts securing the OEM backbone. Remove the 2 remaining bolts You will see how flexible this part is... sheesh.
  4. Dab some loctite on the new bolts (recommend buying them from DDM, but you could reuse yours if you want). Lightly tighten all the bolts back on (the new backbone should still be loose). Tighten the rear two, and work your way up alternating sides until you get to the front (they have slotted holes to take up tolerances).
Now for the probeam:

I found it helpful to hang the exhaust back up using one hanger for the majority of the remaining work.


  1. Find the existing hole in center of rear subframe, and drill into it as straight as possible. I used a 6mm, then 8mm bit. Test fit it up there to get an idea of what you need to do next, and make sure you can get to the 3 nuts that will eventually be installed on top of the existing subframe.
  2. Take off the the 4 bolts on each side that hold the existing control arm brace/plate, the numbering is right side up when you go to put it back.
  3. Take the probeam off again, and assemble it with the supplied hardware including the locknuts to almost tight (you should be able to move the brace hangers in their slotted holes but just barely)
  4. Place the assembled probeam back in place (you will need to drop the single exhaust hanger again temporarily to clear the bend). Install the center bolt/nut/washers to almost tight. Try to line up the brace hanger holes to the control arm holes (the plate can still be off), and put the 8 factory bolts in hand tight.
  5. Now you can mark the location of the 2 additional holes you have to drill in the factory subframe. I used a metal punch so the 6mm drill bit would sit nicely in the mark for the pilot hole.
  6. Pull the probeam back off, drill your holes starting with 6mm as a pilot, then the 8mm until it clears the top. Make sure to drill straight up and level.
  7. Spray some paint on the holes you just made for rust proofing.
  8. Put the probeam back in place, with the center bolt and lined up again to the 2 holes you just drilled.
  9. Slip the factory plates/braces back in between the probeam hangers and the control arm mounts, and install the 8 factory bolts (hand tight).
  10. Put the remaining 2 long bolts/washers/nuts in the holes you made, and tighten all 3 up.
  11. Tighten up the 8 factory bolts on the hangers, then proceed to tighten the hanger bolts/nuts.
  12. Hang the exhaust back up, and raise car, remove jack stands, and lower it. Remember to remove the wheel chocks.
Drive the car around and notice how it makes less noises from the trunk area, and that it handles potholes more similar to a modern BMW. Drive over some train tracks that might be familiar... and notice how the whole car jiggles less. Take some nice curves at high speed, and notice how it feels more precise and planted. Do a donut or two for fun (competition mode, or TC completely off). Worth it! And not really difficult to do.

 

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Drive the car around and notice how it makes less noises from the trunk area, and that it handles potholes more similar to a modern BMW.
!!!!!!!

By setting a check engine lamp and requiring a 4.000€ trip to the dealer?!

:wink::grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
!!!!!!!

By setting a check engine lamp and requiring a 4.000€ trip to the dealer?!

:wink::grin:
Ha! Kinda true. Looking to replace ours with a Tesla, though it hasn't bugged us too much other than tires and alignment/oil changes. You must be surrounded by them in Germany.
 

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By BMW's? Of course. Though plenty of them are below the lowest specification you see in the US--116d's and the like.
 
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