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Just a heads up. Do NOT install your Fumoto valve the way JimVonBaden has. The way he has it set up, the valve handle faces downwards, and should he encounter some road debris, all the debris has to do is pull down and backwards, as it naturally would, and it would open the valve, dumping your oil.

You and JVB should use a different washer than the one provided, with a slightly thicker/thinner profile, so that the valve, when tightened, will have the handle for the valve either towards the top or front to prevent accidental valve opening.

I've mentioned this to JVB in the past.
 

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Just a heads up. Do NOT install your Fumoto valve the way JimVonBaden has. The way he has it set up, the valve handle faces downwards, and should he encounter some road debris, all the debris has to do is pull down and backwards, as it naturally would, and it would open the valve, dumping your oil.

You and JVB should use a different washer than the one provided, with a slightly thicker/thinner profile, so that the valve, when tightened, will have the handle for the valve either towards the top or front to prevent accidental valve opening.

I've mentioned this to JVB in the past.
I agree, sort of. If you face it any direction but the 9:00 position you MIGHT have an issue. Might being the operative word. Realistically it would have to catch it, pull it down, then back, to open the valve. While it is possible, it could happen no matter what position you place the valve. Is it more likely in this position, maybe, but all positions have some small element of risk.

If I had a selection of washers available when I put the valve in I may have turned it another 90°, or 180°, but I honestly do not believe this is a big issue. If I did, I would have stayed with the standard bolt plug.

IMHO the larger risk to my position is the build-up of crud, salts and dirt in it making it hard to open, or causing some corrosion. I'm not overly worried about that either.:cheers:

Jim :cool:
 

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I do not think I would ever put a non-locking valve on an oil sump. Even if it is a small chance, it could open when i didn't want it to, and the risk to reward is just too large to be worth it. Saving less than a minute, once or twice a year, seems to be a really small payback.
 

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I do not think I would ever put a non-locking valve on an oil sump. Even if it is a small chance, it could open when i didn't want it to, and the risk to reward is just too large to be worth it. Saving less than a minute, once or twice a year, seems to be a really small payback.
It's not just the time saving for me. The part I like in particular is not needing a catch pan, the cleaning of a catch pan when you're done, and the much higher likely hood of drips on the floor.

One thing in particular I like is that I got one like this:



With a hose on the end of it, the oil can flow directly into a bottle, with no need for an oil catch pan, and the valve can be opened and closed as you please. So if you only have 1 quart/litre bottles, you can stop the flow as you switch catch bottles.

Just my take on it for my usage/needs.
 

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I agree, sort of. If you face it any direction but the 9:00 position you MIGHT have an issue. Might being the operative word. Realistically it would have to catch it, pull it down, then back, to open the valve. While it is possible, it could happen no matter what position you place the valve. Is it more likely in this position, maybe, but all positions have some small element of risk.

If I had a selection of washers available when I put the valve in I may have turned it another 90°, or 180°, but I honestly do not believe this is a big issue. If I did, I would have stayed with the standard bolt plug.

IMHO the larger risk to my position is the build-up of crud, salts and dirt in it making it hard to open, or causing some corrosion. I'm not overly worried about that either.:cheers:

Jim :cool:
So why not just move it to the 9 'o' clock position?

By the way, I'm not sure if it was you that I had debate with as to whether to go with a Fram Sure-Drain or the Fumoto. I ended up getting one of each. I personally like the Fram's valve design better than the Fumoto's on a purely theoretical/hypothetical aspect. But I ended up installing the Fumoto mostly because I ended up thinking the tool-less functionality of the Fumoto's valve makes it more fool proof than the Fram. If I used the Fram, I'd end being paranoid about losing the release cap/tube, or damaging it. Yes I know I can always go back to the stock plug, but again, might lose it right? Anyways, just :jm2c:

Oh, and yes, as soon as I installed mine, I had mine in the same 6 'o' clock position as you do. Was not ok with it at all, and ended up using another washer (I do a lot of car work, so I stuff like this around) that positioned it at 9 'o' clock as I wanted it. Oh, and I got one of the locking 'C' clips as well.

Are you running the 'C' clip?
 

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So why not just move it to the 9 'o' clock position?

By the way, I'm not sure if it was you that I had debate with as to whether to go with a Fram Sure-Drain or the Fumoto. I ended up getting one of each. I personally like the Fram's valve design better than the Fumoto's on a purely theoretical/hypothetical aspect. But I ended up installing the Fumoto mostly because I ended up thinking the tool-less functionality of the Fumoto's valve makes it more fool proof than the Fram. If I used the Fram, I'd end being paranoid about losing the release cap/tube, or damaging it. Yes I know I can always go back to the stock plug, but again, might lose it right? Anyways, just :jm2c:

Oh, and yes, as soon as I installed mine, I had mine in the same 6 'o' clock position as you do. Was not ok with it at all, and ended up using another washer (I do a lot of car work, so I stuff like this around) that positioned it at 9 'o' clock as I wanted it. Oh, and I got one of the locking 'C' clips as well.

Are you running the 'C' clip?
They only recommend the c-clip for extreme off-road usage. My Sky doesn't see any of that, yours may be different :D

-GT
 

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IMHO the larger risk to my position is the build-up of crud, salts and dirt in it making it hard to open, or causing some corrosion. I'm not overly worried about that either.:cheers:

Jim :cool:
If someone was worried about this (was it in this thread?), you could always put some kind of cover over the valve portion. I suspect a simple plastic baggy held on with an eleastic band would work, and it would still be easier than a bolt. I don't think it would get so hot as to melt it?

Anyway, I'm not worried either and have no plans to do the above.

-GT
 

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So why not just move it to the 9 'o' clock position?

By the way, I'm not sure if it was you that I had debate with as to whether to go with a Fram Sure-Drain or the Fumoto. I ended up getting one of each. I personally like the Fram's valve design better than the Fumoto's on a purely theoretical/hypothetical aspect. But I ended up installing the Fumoto mostly because I ended up thinking the tool-less functionality of the Fumoto's valve makes it more fool proof than the Fram. If I used the Fram, I'd end being paranoid about losing the release cap/tube, or damaging it. Yes I know I can always go back to the stock plug, but again, might lose it right? Anyways, just :jm2c:

Oh, and yes, as soon as I installed mine, I had mine in the same 6 'o' clock position as you do. Was not ok with it at all, and ended up using another washer (I do a lot of car work, so I stuff like this around) that positioned it at 9 'o' clock as I wanted it. Oh, and I got one of the locking 'C' clips as well.

Are you running the 'C' clip?
Like I said, I did not have a spare gasket or two, so it is what it is. I surely am not going to drain out fresh oil to move it.

Like I also said, I do not think it is much of a risk, so I probably will not later.

The reason I put it on is so I do not have to jack the car for an oil change, and it is easy and less messy. No "C" clip.

This is by far not my first rodeo, see my sigline, so I am comfortable with my decisions.

Yes, it was me you debated with. We all choose our own level of acceptable risk, this is mine, yours is different. No right or wrong here, just opinions IMHO.

Jim :cool:
 

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Amazon carries the Fumoto also!
 

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Just make sure if you go with either, you need the extension, and don't be lazy and use the supplied washers that will orient the Fumoto in a dangerous position (facing downwards as JimVonBaden's does, is the worst possible position for install on the kappa). Do yourself the favor and spend the $0.50 or so on a washer that will orient it in a significantly safer position, ideally at the 9 'o' clock position on the Kappa.

You should be able to use the Fumoto's extension with the Fram Sure Drain.

In either case, it will probably end up costing you about $30 by the time you're done. Shop around for the extension, prices on that vary greatly. The valves themselves are pretty closely priced otherwise. And just my personal opinion on this one, but get the Fumoto with the nipple, or the Fram Sure Drain. That way, you can attach a hose, and drain oil directly into a bottle, instead of needing a catch pan. Definitely makes oil changes faster/easier than doing it without a hose and a catch pan.
 

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Just make sure if you go with either, you need the extension, and don't be lazy and use the supplied washers that will orient the Fumoto in a dangerous position (facing downwards as JimVonBaden's does, is the worst possible position for install on the kappa). Do yourself the favor and spend the $0.50 or so on a washer that will orient it in a significantly safer position, ideally at the 9 'o' clock position on the Kappa.

.
Wait, what? You mean I don't have mine right? Why didn't you tell me AGAIN!:rolleyes:

Jim :cool:
 

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well anyways, lowes has valves, all in standard, and all huge. advanced and autozone dont carry the fram anymore. ****. I have to order it.
 

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well anyways, lowes has valves, all in standard, and all huge. advanced and autozone dont carry the fram anymore. ****. I have to order it.
Have you looked into some specialty shops? There's a shop called Acklands Grainger in Canada that sells industrial type equipment/supplies, and I've seen 1/4" diameter ball valves there before.

At $30 or so, honestly, I'd suggest just getting the Fumoto or Fram. You'll probably spend about $15-20 for the valve itself, and will likely need an extension as well, that will likely be $5-10. For the small savings, I'd suggest getting the Fumoto/Fram, and knowing that it will be compatible for use in high temperature, and oily conditions. Just my:jm2c:
 
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