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Does anyone have a cure for the top of the door panel when it fades? I tried "Forever Black" but it didn't do much. It looked good when it was wet but once it dried it was back to the way it was.

I wouldn't mind replacing it if I could find a guaranteed non-faded one.
 

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Does anyone have a cure for the top of the door panel when it fades? I tried "Forever Black" but it didn't do much. It looked good when it was wet but once it dried it was back to the way it was.

I wouldn't mind replacing it if I could find a guaranteed non-faded one.
I had the same problem with mine. The tops of my panels were almost white. I purchased a vinyl / leather dye and ended up recoating my entire interior. Be careful because it can be quite messy and two coats should do it letting a day in between to dry. Mine came out great and it doesn't rub off! the panels look like new. I did mine while i had the inserts off being recovered so it was a bit earier that way.
 

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I had the same problem with mine. The tops of my panels were almost white. I purchased a vinyl / leather dye and ended up recoating my entire interior. Be careful because it can be quite messy and two coats should do it letting a day in between to dry. Mine came out great and it doesn't rub off! the panels look like new. I did mine while i had the inserts off being recovered so it was a bit earier that way.
Awesome, I will try that. I have to replace the door speakers soon so I will have the panels off already.

Thanks!
 

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Awesome, I will try that. I have to replace the door speakers soon so I will have the panels off already.

Thanks!
Make sure you are wearing gloves and don't get it on anything that you don't want to be black. Also, give them a good scrubbing with alcohol to remove any oils or grime before you start. I think you will be impressed with the results!:cheers:
 

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Make sure you are wearing gloves and don't get it on anything that you don't want to be black. Also, give them a good scrubbing with alcohol to remove any oils or grime before you start. I think you will be impressed with the results!:cheers:
I had the door panels off and replaced the speakers. As I was masking off the door handle I got the notion that the leather inserts snapped into the door panel. I was wrong. Instead of hearing the snap of a clip dislodging I was hearing the crack of the plastic welds breaking! When you dyed your door panels did you remove the leather insert panels and if so how did you re-glue them back into place? I saw a Mike Martin video on youtube using superglue and backing soda (not sure what the baking soda was for). I was wondering if this is the way to go????
 

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Angry within 12 minutes ? LOL

Yes all LH side parts are way more rare than RH parts, but they are out there. Just set your bait , look beyond Ebay, and you will find one.
If you're referring to the emoji, that's a sad emoji not anger.

Found some left hand early year models but those don't have the PDL switch
 

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I saw a Mike Martin video on youtube using superglue and backing soda (not sure what the baking soda was for). I was wondering if this is the way to go????
The baking soda just thickens the glue and, more importantly, reacts and causes it to set far more quickly.

I would try to re-weld them back on with a soldering iron first. But if not, try the super glue.
 

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The baking soda just thickens the glue and, more importantly, reacts and causes it to set far more quickly.

I would try to re-weld them back on with a soldering iron first. But if not, try the super glue.
Thanks TS

I will give the soldering gun a try first. I tried some rubber type cement that I had and it's no bueno for sure.

Fleabay has some RH panels for only $150. I sure wish they had the LH!
 

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I am fairly certain that those panels are ABS like every other piece of plastic in the car. I have had really good success using the solvent cement for ABS pipe the you can get at any home improvement or hardware store.
 

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I have used the grey, not the black, and I am not sure what the difference is.

The suggestion that TS made about using the soldering iron is also very good, and I think it depends on the mechanics of what you are trying to attach.
The soldering iron is going to allow you to flare one piece out to mechanically wedge it into another, but I have not had a lot of success in welding two pieces together.
On the other hand, the solvent weld requires a reasonable amount of surface area to provide a strong joint, so you may need a piece of ABS to form a splice.
 

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When I recovered my inserts, I completely removed them. They snap off quite easily and quickly once you get the first one off. I did not want to reglue or try to melt the plastic as I was looking for way to remove them again if I had to. I didn't think to take pictures of my repair method but I wished I had. I basically took the studs on the insert and flattened the top just a bit and drilled a small pilot hole in the middle of the studs. Then I put the panel back in, lined the studs up to the broken out holes and secured the panel by screwing in a spring clip into the pilot holes in the insert studs. The spring clip spans the broken hole and the spring in the clip pulls the insert into the panel nice & tight. I can take a picture of the clip I'm talking about if you want, but I'm not going to remover the panel again. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No need to remove panel. I am picturing what you did. It sounds like a very good method.

I have been Youtube-ing the heck out of videos on ABS glue. It turns out Acetone will melt ABS plastic. You just shave off some ABS from a Lego of all things into an small non-ABS plastic or glass container. The acetone will melt the plastic into a glue-like consistency depending upon how much of each ingredient you use. That mixture, when applied to what you want glued, will melt all components and it will "set" fairly quickly.

I do feel better now knowing the many options I have. Seeing as how I know several welds are broken I will have to do something.
 

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I have been Youtube-ing the heck out of videos on ABS glue. It turns out Acetone will melt ABS plastic.
I have a fair amount of experience with my 3D printer, using acetone as you describe. It sounds easier than it can turn out. If you have to use glue, then I'd suggest springing for the correct stuff.

HOWEVER, before you go that route, please check that the inner (padded) panel *is* actually ABS. I have a strong feeling that that panel is nylon. Try some nail polish remover (or pure acetone if you already have it) and rub some into the back of the panel, see if it 'smears'. Pretty sure the outer panel is solventable (is that a word?) like John said, but I'd check the inner one first.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Will do TS.

I will have to finish breaking the rest of the factory welds to remove that leather inner panel so I can dye the top of the door panel.

I sure the heck wished I could just buy new panels. The LH is not producing itself anywhere! I can get the RH panel in blue or red stitching
 

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Think I saw on a recent episode of Wheeler Dealers this past year, where Mike took a front nose splitter from a Mazda RX 7 (?)
in for a heat seam treatment welding of plastic/abs parts together. What looked like a soldering iron was used, light sanding then respray.

Once you finish your repairs, dye your pieces, re-install everything and are satisfied, the faded out look gone from view then what?
The sun will beat down on this part again, fading it over time, like all cars get when out in the elements?

Windshield sun shade blocker/silver foil for the front windshield, but what about the side windows, the top of the panel exposed to UV rays?
IF your car sits for awhile out in the sun, you might want to think about, a DYI project to protect this newly dyed panel from
more sun fade in the future? Buy an extra big sunshade for a truck windshield, cut this down to fit, into your side windows as extra added protection to your investment and hard work you have put in re-dying your door panels?

Under a car cover, in a garage, under a shaded area when parked will help with the UV fade to plastic parts, but if that is not an option then the cheap fix to the UV fade would be one of these foil shades for both the drivers side/passenger side windows.
I have seen this used in the Marine industry for boat portholes to keep heat/light out of the interior cabin.
It might work for your fading door panels?
Less costs, less work X2, less fade.

LAC
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeppers thanks I saw that but I plan on dyeing mine if I can't get brand new ones. Nothing wrong with mine just faded.
 
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