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08 Redline. RPM"s CAI, charge pipes, Intercooler, CAT delete & ECM Tune. DIY tunnel brace. ProBeam.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm flushing out my brake system while I paint my calipers and I'm considering swapping to DOT 5.1 Main question: Can we use it? If so, how clean must the system be of the old fluid?
Given:
1) '08 Redline
2) Automatic trans.
3) Stock brake system and no plans to change any of the calipers from OEM (yeah, yeah, yeah... I've read the threads on the Wilwood and Brembos)
4) I will put on the Hawk pads on at some point, and maybe some steel braid lines.

How does one get the rest of the fluid out of the reservoir? I've sucked out everything i can, but still, fluid remains in the rear right corner of the reservoir and I can't get a suction hose to it.
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Cable Gas Auto part


Lastly, any hints as to how much fluid I should plan to buy? Looks like the 5.1 at my local auto shops only comes in small bottles. OF, course, all this is moot if I should NOT swap over.

Thanks in advance, this forum is amazing!
 

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Don't bother. I ran it in my clutch for my G8 for a while and couldn't tell a difference from DOT 4. Not worth the price difference.

To answer the question though, DOT 5.1 is safe in almost any system EXCEPT one with DOT 5.
 

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I cannot imagine how you can replace 100% the fluid because the brake and clutch fluid are one and the same fluid.....and you cannot flush out the clutch fluid, only the brake fluid. And even then you can't get the MC reservoir completely emptied.

I recommend working with the same type of fluid you currently have in your system. Just replace all you can through conventional bleeding methods.

I assume you already inserted your vacuum hose in the little rectangular passage in the MC reservoir. I was able to insert it quite far and remove more old fluid. It was satisfying to get more dirty fluid out before refilling, though still not enough for complete satisfaction.
 

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08 Redline. RPM"s CAI, charge pipes, Intercooler, CAT delete & ECM Tune. DIY tunnel brace. ProBeam.
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I cannot imagine how you can replace 100% the fluid because the brake and clutch fluid are one and the same fluid.....and you cannot flush out the clutch fluid, only the brake fluid. And even then you can't get the MC reservoir completely emptied.

I recommend working with the same type of fluid you currently have in your system. Just replace all you can through conventional bleeding methods.

I assume you already inserted your vacuum hose in the little rectangular passage in the MC reservoir. I was able to insert it quite far and remove more old fluid. It was satisfying to get more dirty fluid out before refilling, though still not enough for complete satisfaction.
Auto trans, so no issue there.

Yeah, I tried to get that hose in there further, but it just would not go.
 

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08 Redline. RPM"s CAI, charge pipes, Intercooler, CAT delete & ECM Tune. DIY tunnel brace. ProBeam.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wish this thread got more opinions and advice on it than the one bashing a grumpy keyboard commando.

I'm still waiting for my stupid caliper paint to dry. 4 days now??? I think it's ready to handle. maybe? In the meantime, I've painted the inside of my wheels black, swapped out my OEM intercooler for one from RPM-motorsports (Thanks Martin!!!), did some other general MX, oil changes and tire rotations on two other cars, helped out my sick wife (who gets mono in their 40's, anyway?), helped my buddy with his landscaping company, got my kids to/fro their afterschool activities, and still worked my real job flying the boxes filled with the treasures everyone buys online. And yet... The paint is still not cured. These things are hanging in my basement with a dehumidifier and small space heater blowing on them full time. I don't get it. I ran into the same problem the first time I did this, but I blamed it on the humid air since I kept them installed on the car when I painted.

So... One person says not worth the money. Anyone else care to join in on the convo before I either waste my money or not? HERE FISHY FISHY FISHY.
 

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Are you having brake fluid related problems? Are you planning to start doing significantly more extreme driving? If both answers are "No" there is no reason to change anything.
 

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08 Redline. RPM"s CAI, charge pipes, Intercooler, CAT delete & ECM Tune. DIY tunnel brace. ProBeam.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No and No. But some day I'm taking this girl to drive The Tail and I have been known to push the limits from time to time (especially when in northern MI when/where there's no one around).

But, No: no track time foreseen in the future if that's what you mean.

I suspect my brake fluid was all original (14 years old) when I got her last summer. Figured I'd just start fresh and put in "the best" if that's really what 5.1 is since I planned on pulling the calipers off for paint. Sure, 5.1 is pricey, but not out of limits. Just don't want to screw anything up. Thanks, John, for this and for everything you mods do here.
 

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But some day I'm taking this girl to drive The Tail and I have been known to push the limits from time to time
You won't be pushing anything on the tail, you have trees on one side and incoming traffic on the other. It'll be mild compared to autox or a track, just stick with dot 4 unless money is of no concern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
4? I thought 3 was the OEM. If I'm going to swap fluids, I might as well go "better?"
 

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4? I thought 3 was the OEM. If I'm going to swap fluids, I might as well go "better?"
"Better" is not always better. Based on your description, stick with OE-spec DOT 3.

As far as The Tail, the last time I drove it every fifth vehicle was an RV, every tenth vehicle was a police car, and the average speed was about 40 MPH.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okey Dokey. I'm think I'm going to return the 5.1 I bought and stick with the OE DOT3. No cross contamination that way and if you think I won't need it, then I trust your opinion on that. Cheers.
 

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Okey Dokey. I'm think I'm going to return the 5.1 I bought and stick with the OE DOT3. No cross contamination that way and if you think I won't need it, then I trust your opinion on that. Cheers.
Your driving sounds slightly milder than mine, and I have not had any problems.
 

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Would you tell that to my wife? She's thinks I'm nuts.
Yeah, sure, that would (not) be effective.
If she thinks you are nuts she is going to have an even lower opinion of anyone you associate with, especially if they agree with you.
 
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I'm going to return the 5.1 I bought and stick with the OE DOT3. No cross contamination that way........
I agree with you. Unless you were a serious competition track driver, just stay with what is in the system to begin with.....good old DOT3.

An interesting reference is the popular Ford E350 and E450 motorhome chassis. Around 2012, Ford changed from DOT3 to DOT4 in that chassis for the heavy duty application. But DOT4 with it's higher boiling point, has a tighter maintenance flushing schedule because it absorbs moisture more quickly than DOT3.

So don't be neglectful with maintenance if changing from DOT3 to something with a higher boiling point. If you are neglectful, your DOT4, DOT5, or DOT5.1 will work like DOT1 when the moisture inside starts to boil.
 
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I agree with you. Unless you were a serious competition track driver, just stay with what is in the system to begin with.....good old DOT3.

An interesting reference is the popular Ford E350 and E450 motorhome chassis. Around 2012, Ford changed from DOT3 to DOT4 in that chassis for the heavy duty application. But DOT4 with it's higher boiling point, has a tighter maintenance flushing schedule because it absorbs moisture more quickly than DOT3.

So don't be neglectful with maintenance if changing from DOT3 to something with a higher boiling point. If you are neglectful, your DOT4, DOT5, or DOT5.1 will work like DOT1 when the moisture inside starts to boil.
Well said.

DOT 5 is the odd man out here, of course, since its silicone composition makes it far less hygroscopic, but also makes it incompatible with the other three.
 
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