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Okay, here's the deal. I bought my Sky Redline about 2 1/2 years ago and have learned a TON on this site. I am ready to begin upgrading the power in this baby. I am not looking for a racecar, just want some more power when i punch it in 2nd or 3rd gear. I have decided to start with the exhaust this winter and do more engine 'stuff' and a tune next winter. I have tried reading all of the different threads about exhausts on here but it has left me confused and...exhausted (see what i did there?). The more i read about high flow CATs and Cat back system the more confused i get. I'm looking for something that will give it some good sound, be legal, and leave me room for improvement next year when i upgrade the turbo, pipes, and tune. Oh, and i want it to be easy to install. From the threads (which most are quite old on this topic), Magnaflow is the best (or they suck), Solo is the best (or they suck)...what's a poor Sky owner to do?
 

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So...exhaust will do nothing for your car but add sound...unless you're adding a different turbo. If you go with a HFC, expect a louder exhaust note after 50% throttle. If you live in a state that emission tests, good luck. If you put an exhaust without mufflers on it and you live in a state where they do inspections...good luck, they'll catch it. A HFC won't do much for power...unless you're adding an aftermarket IC and IC piping. Then you can push upwards of 350hp with a tune. But is $2000 for 25hp worth it? You can get 320hp roughly from a custom tune....why spend the $2k on extra parts to get 350hp?
 
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So...exhaust will do nothing for your car but add sound...unless you're adding a different turbo. If you go with a HFC, expect a louder exhaust note after 50% throttle. If you live in a state that emission tests, good luck. If you put an exhaust without mufflers on it and you live in a state where they do inspections...good luck, they'll catch it. A HFC won't do much for power...unless you're adding an aftermarket IC and IC piping. Then you can push upwards of 350hp with a tune. But is $2000 for 25hp worth it? You can get 320hp roughly from a custom tune....why spend the $2k on extra parts to get 350hp?
Thanks for the reply. Good info. I am going to do the RPM Stage 3 next year and want to do the exhaust this year. I get it that it's a lot for small gains but i think it will end up being more than that. I can't seem to figure out if the cat down pipe is worth anything or if i should just do cat back. And no, thankfully, i don't live in a state with inspections. Definitely not going without mufflers or cat. Just don't want to waste money next year if it will be hampered by the exhaust.
 

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I have the Solo Street Race with no mufflers. It's not loud. The turbo acts as a muffler for the exhaust. I will say that if I go to a HFC, that I might change my mind on that.

Small gains only happen after the large tune gain. Nothing will get you more then several hp here and there after your tuned. GM did a really good job letting the car breathe. The factory exhaust and intake really don't need to be replaced until you add a larger turbo. And you'll never get more then around 350hp from the k04 turbo. It turns into a heat pump after 24psi of pressure. ZZP tuned mine to 24psi of boost, but my fan comes on to cool things down a lot sooner then everyone else's. My fan starts at 182 degrees in goes up 20% for every 2 degree increments. So I'm full fan at 190 degrees, where factory and most tunes are full fan at 220 degrees.

So here's some info to chew on. When I had my car dyno tuned at ZZP, everyone there had either a Ford Eccoboost car or a GM turbo car. Most were the Camaro and Cadillac with the 2.0L. The tuner said for $1800 on the LTG motor (3rd gen LNF) that he could make 400hp easily. That $1800 would include, HFC, IC, IC piping and CAI. And then of course the dyno tune cost. He said the eccoboost by Ford was even easier. He said no mods other then a CAI and they could push almost 600hp. I must sadly admit that I accidentally got smoked one day by a Taurus SHO in my Scat Pack Charger.... And as SHE passed me, in the back window was tuned by ZZP.....

DDM Works, Performance Auto Werks and ZZPerformance also offer nice kits. I would check them out too. Make sure you do your research on all of them before you make your final decision. Quality, customer service, "bang for the buck" and helpfulness should all play into the decision.

Here's a quick vid of my car being dyno'd. Go to 0:34 to see how much air is actually pushed out the back...watch the banner flap in the breeze from the exhaust.

 
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I have the Solo Street Race with no mufflers. It's not loud. The turbo acts as a muffler for the exhaust. I will say that if I go to a HFC, that I might change my mind on that.

Small gains only happen after the large tune gain. Nothing will get you more then several hp here and there after your tuned. GM did a really good job letting the car breathe. The factory exhaust and intake really don't need to be replaced until you add a larger turbo. And you'll never get more then around 350hp from the k04 turbo. It turns into a heat pump after 24psi of pressure. ZZP tuned mine to 24psi of boost, but my fan comes on to cool things down a lot sooner then everyone else's. My fan starts at 182 degrees in goes up 20% for every 2 degree increments. So I'm full fan at 190 degrees, where factory and most tunes are full fan at 220 degrees.

So here's some info to chew on. When I had my car dyno tuned at ZZP, everyone there had either a Ford Eccoboost car or a GM turbo car. Most were the Camaro and Cadillac with the 2.0L. The tuner said for $1800 on the LTG motor (3rd gen LNF) that he could make 400hp easily. That $1800 would include, HFC, IC, IC piping and CAI. And then of course the dyno tune cost. He said the eccoboost by Ford was even easier. He said no mods other then a CAI and they could push almost 600hp. I must sadly admit that I accidentally got smoked one day by a Taurus SHO in my Scat Pack Charger.... And as SHE passed me, in the back window was tuned by ZZP.....

DDM Works, Performance Auto Werks and ZZPerformance also offer nice kits. I would check them out too. Make sure you do your research on all of them before you make your final decision. Quality, customer service, "bang for the buck" and helpfulness should all play into the decision.

Here's a quick vid of my car being dyno'd. Go to 0:34 to see how much air is actually pushed out the back...watch the banner flap in the breeze from the exhaust.

Awesome video! Parts of it sound like a jet flying overhead! I know the turbo and the tune are the key but don't want to do anything twice. I thought it best to build up to the tune as the last piece to put it all together. Thanks for the info. That's amazing about the Fords...shame they look like ****! Haha! I want this thing to be great on the road but quiet in the neighborhood except for a low rumble but able to handle the additional power of the new turbo and tune. Not looking to be Mullet in the Mustang cruising around with open headers. And i can say that because i used to be that guy when i was a teenager.
 

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An airplane lifts off the ground at 165 mph....so will you. Our cars are not equipped for down force...up up and away.
 

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An airplane lifts off the ground at 165 mph....so will you. Our cars are not equipped for down force...up up and away.
Yeah, there's a lot of truth exagerators on Facebook stating they've had their cars to 170+mph.
 

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Yeah, there's a lot of truth exagerators on Facebook stating they've had their cars to 170+mph.
If your odometer goes to 160...I cannot swear to this but I would think it breaks....maybe not because it is a computer today...not sure...who knows.
 

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If your odometer goes to 160...I cannot swear to this but I would think it breaks....maybe not because it is a computer today...not sure...who knows.
Assume that you meant speedo, not odometer.

Mechanical ones don't break, they just stop reading, and I doubt that electronic ones break either, they would probably just keep reading.

I have pegged the speedo on at least one of my cars and it literally hits the pin. There isn't enough torque on the needle to do anything bad except perhaps to have it move a bit on the pinion it is stuck onto so you'd have to reposition it when at rest.

Until the 1970s speedos usually had a top speed far in excess of the actual conceivable top speed of the cars. At the beginning of the smog era some only ran to 80 mph or so.

One of my favourite moments was when some young teenagers were looking at my vintage Lamborghini, which had a metric speedo. One said "Holy crap! This thing will do 300 mph!" (in fact it wouldn't even do 300 kph - they topped out at around 162 mph (around 270 kph).
 
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An airplane lifts off the ground at 165 mph....so will you. Our cars are not equipped for down force...up up and away.
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60 knots

60 knots is considered to be the optimum takeoff speed. This speed will allow enough lift under the wings to give a smooth, stall-free takeoff. What is the landing speed of a Cessna 172? Same as rotation speed, around 60 KIAS with 10-degree flaps.
 

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60 knots

60 knots is considered to be the optimum takeoff speed. This speed will allow enough lift under the wings to give a smooth, stall-free takeoff. What is the landing speed of a Cessna 172? Same as rotation speed, around 60 KIAS with 10-degree flaps.
Doesn't it depend on the plane? I think that larger planes (737 et al) are closer to Mike's 165 MPH at 145 kn +/-.
And I was once at Lakeland Fla for the Sun-and-Fun Fly-In and watched a plane takeoff into a 25 kn headwind while drifting backwards.

Not that any plane's takeoff speed has anything to do with a car's "takeoff speed".
 

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To get physical...LOL. A plane lifts when the air pressure underneath the plane is greater than above. That is lift. Let me see if I remember my physics. I am old guys. A=final velocity-initial velocity over Time square. How am I doing? Remember, I graduated in 1965.
 

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If you compare the oem redline converter to the aftermarket high flow cat I can make some deductions. I haven't looked inside of the aftermarket cat, but I have peered into the oem one. The oem one is larger so that the same flow volume is sustained through the cat with little resistance. The canister size is larger to compensate for the internal element volume so that the flow is not restricted. Fill it half full and make it twice as large. Now I can only guess what is inside of the aftermarket one, but I can imagine that it is not effective due to limited surface contact, and that it will have minimal impact on decreasing flow restriction. But maybe your concerns are overheating the cat or saving a little weight.
 

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Awesome video! Parts of it sound like a jet flying overhead! I know the turbo and the tune are the key but don't want to do anything twice.
The sound is from the dyno itself. The dyno roller was so loud I had to plug my ears.
 
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