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I'm new to the site, thanks for your response in advance. I'm currently looking at a 2007 silver Redline with the 2 tone red/blk interior and 80k miles. It looks in good condition, I'm headed tomorrow to check it out. They have it listed for 7500. The reason I came here is I don't know if KBB or NADA value estimates are accurate for cars like this and what better place to ask than a forum.. Is this a fair price ? Also anything in paticular I should check out when I test drive the car ? Again, thanks for your time. R.
 

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Actually since RONA inflation has happened this car is underpriced!!! This car should be going for $10k-$12k. The major issues are waterpumps. Make sure it and the thermostat have been replaced. They are about $1300 and $700 respectively. Check for an orange, jelly like substance around and under the pump area. The pump is located on the passenger side, directly between the turbo and block. The fluid would be under that area. Another thing is the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP). During a cold start it'll be very rapid, like a baseball card in your bicycle tire (found between the firewall and block in front of the driver). After about 3 minutes it should fall to a very steady, rythmatic tick. Like a clock ticking. If it's inconsistent, chances are it needs a new HPFP. Check the chin for any signs of damage. This could lead to a possible intercooler failure. Check to see if the car is tuned. If the owner doesn't know, look on the driver's side at the IC piping. If there is 1 screw holding the MAP sensor in, it's tuned. Check for rear diff leak. Common on the driver's side. Another issue could be the timing and balancer chain. And not cheap to replace...about $2200 at the dealer. Listen for any erratic metal to metal clicking in the front on cold start. It'll sound like a rock flying off a tire while driving. Find out when the battery was replaced last. A dying battery causes all sorts of electrical gremlins in these cars. Look for a CAI. If it has one, make sure the air filter isn't an oiled air filter. Oil gets on the MAF and causes a CEL. Look under the car, at each wheel. There should be 3 bolts holding each hub on from the backside. They were "under-tightened" from the factory and many people don't know this. So over time they work themselves out and come loose and fall out. A normal operating temp can be anywhere from 180 degrees to 215. The fan usually doesn't come on until 220 in most cars. So a way to make sure it's working is to turn on the A/C. The relays are common failure points. I've only seen a few fan motors quit, and they are very expensive. The Redlines require premium fuel and 100% synthetic oil changes. Anything other then 100% synthetic and the turbo doesn't last long. These are just some of the major things to look for.

Here, it's the third post down on the Solstice Forum. Things to Check Lots of things to check and can get overwhelming. Just in case you can't see I posted it here too from Sirwm:

this list is a gathering of information from other threads here on the forum.
This topic comes up so often.
Instead of pointing to the threads, I just cut&paste the items
into a file so that a question like yours can be answered reasonably.
( maybe pointing to other threads is better - who knows? :huh: )

Oh well... Here is what I have...

- - - - - - - - -

1) Run a CARFAX report to check for any issues on record

2) Go to the GM dealer with the VIN and pull a report from the GM maintenance database, it will provide a lot of useful info on maintenance, failures, mileage, and recalls applied or outstanding

3) Early 08s had the electric vacuum brake booster pump deleted. Some have had issues due to this. There are two fixes, one software one adds the pump back to the car as a "kit"

4) 09s had the center double cup holder deleted. Many find this a problem and some have had the dealer install one. See threads on this subject

5) 2010 MY has updated engine management software and is not compatible with the GMPP tune.

6) Check the front cup holder to see if it’s there and functional.

7) Visually inspect the differential for seeping / leaking and operation. Some 07s had noise issues and there was a recall to install a special additive to address issues.

8) Visually inspect the undercarriage. Look for damage due to lifting in the area of the front fenders and the front lift points. Put a torque wrench on the bolts that retain the wheels on the inside as there are a few cases of these coming loose. Check the shocks for leakage, there are a few instances of them failing prematurely.

9) Visually inspect the "chin" for damage, many have been run into curbs and need repair. It’s a place where you can easily get it fixed but could negotiate the fix into the purchase price.

10) Cycle the tops several times for proper operation and look for any wear on the sides where the trunk hold down feet contact the fabric. Some scuffing is ok but the unwary owner has often had the top holed in this area. Visually inspect the trunk lid to make sure the rubber portion of the hold down feet are intact and properly aligned. Check the top for proper deployment and any sticking as well as general alignment. Make sure the twin flaps move freely and smoothly. Verify that both buttresses release easily and completely. Check the condition of the trunk hinges and the torsion bars. If the trunk has popped open when in motion, the hinges can be damaged and the torsion bars are known to fail occasionally. The fix is to pull the rear bumper cover and while it’s not difficult, it can be a significant labor charge to get it done.

11) Visually inspect the center console. Many have failed due to their design. If the previous owner put any significant weight on the center console cover, it is most likely cracked. The cracking starts at the curved rear portion on the driver’s side and progresses up through the center of the console cover. Often you can press down on the cover and see it flexing abnormally in this area and determine that it is unsound. It’s an easy fix, but if out of the bumper to bumper warranty, it will cost about $100 for a new part. If in doubt, pull up on the rear of the console cover and it will pop up so you can visually inspect the underside.

12) Visually inspect the tire pump assembly in the trunk. It’s about $50 to replace and its all you have on the road.

13) Visually inspect the intercooler for damage or defects. Many have been run into curbs and damaged, they are subject to foreign object damage on the road and unless you give them a good look you may not discover it until you have a problem. In rare instances, GMPP equipped GXPs have experienced splitting of the IC can on the outlet side. It is hidden by the plastic shroud but you can infer damage if there are codes thrown regularly or on cold start you listen up front near the ground you can hear a sucking sound.

14) Manually inspect the hose clamps for tightness. Give the air cleaner a quick look. If its full of tons of junk, that may be an indicator of the attention that the car received from the current owner and be a subject for triggering a more detailed inspection of the car by a trusted tech.

15) Check the condition of the MAF sensor where it mates with the intake tubing up front. Some have been broken off and glued back on as an expedient repair. This is not necessarily bad but is another indicator of the level of attention the current owner gave to the car.

16) Check for heavy uneven wear in the tires. If they were rotated as required, they should be evenly worn. If they are not, then that is another indicator.

17) Pull up the passenger side carpet and give the BCM a quick look. Is the cover in place? Does it show signs of having been removed frequently? Are there any signs of modification or tampering?

18) Inspect the fuse / relay box on the left side of the engine bay at the firewall. Look for any signs of problems, excessive handling or modifications.

19) Visually inspect the turbo for any signs of external cracking, oil leaking, or “modifications” to the actuation rod. The locktite should be intact with no signs of the nut having been turned.

20) Check the coolant level and color. If there is any question or anomaly, have it tested for specific gravity.

21) Have a person sit in the passenger seat to verify the proper operation of the seat airbag sensor. Several have failed and its relatively expensive to have them repaired out of warranty.

22) Check for proper operation of the driver’s seat lift motor. Many are never used and need to be lubricated to free them up properly.

23) Road test the car. Make sure all systems are functional. Check the DIC for all displays and the presence of any codes or warnings.

24) Visually inspect all the rubber seals – they are hard to find and some are very expensive.

25) Visually inspect the condition of the headlight and tail light assemblies. They are expensive and difficult to find. Some light pitting can be polished out but cracks are a problem.

26) For automatic cars, drive the car in low speed conditions an check for smooth upshifts and downshifts. Some cars are experiencing very hard 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts apparently due to undiagnosed camshaft position sensor failures.

--


I think now would be a good time to start a checklist of possible problem areas on the Solstice for future used car buyers. Since the car is new now would be when the first problems will appear and we should make a record of them:

1) Leaking shocks
2) Push button for top doesn't work in glovebox consistently
3) #20 Connector in ECU harness contracts in cold breaking connection immobolizes the car
4) Leaky trim seals in trunk area
5) Power window problem some were built with the wiring harness to the main switch on the driver door not pushed in all the way and they worked their way out.
6) Passenger-side buttress sometimes won't close in cold weather.
7) Passenger and driver side buttress sometimes wont open in cold weather also.
8) Check the rear diff for leaking from a possibly not set correctly reliefe valve.
9) Leaking differential seal


Help!!! Looking at buying my first GXP

Items to inspect when buying used Solstice.

NA cars - that is the 2.4 L normally aspirated cars - are going for 100k, 200k and approaching 300kl miles with few problems. The problems are "normal" failures like water pumps, clogged catalytic converters etc. Some of the early cars had issues with the differential. Several were replaced under warranty. There was a recall for all 06 and 07 MY cars that addressed the rear end. Some cars have rear end wine and some have a "clunk" when making significant throttle changes. I have yet to see a failure resulting from these symptoms. The only failures I am aware of were loss of lubrication or just a mechanical failure . Again we are talking less than 10?

There have been issues with the tops early on due to improper adjustment of the top mechanism and / or the door windows. Some cars were built without the acoustic liner and are noisier. Some early cars were built with plastic ball end joints which failed in some cases are resulted in a redesign. Putting the top up without opening the doors or lowering the windows will cause issues over time. Failure to lubricate the side hinges over the windows can result in sticking.

There are cables that actuate the trunk release and the buttress releases. The plastic retention balls on the ends can fail and make it impossible to open the trunk normally.

You want to start with the local car because the Sky and Sol are highly susceptible to damage when lifted improperly. The front fenders crack frequently due to road vibration and are easily crushed if lifted with a floor jack. If there is damage you want to identify it before sale and with a dealer you can push to get them to repair the damage as part of the sale. There are basically no available right side factory fenders anymore and few left side fenders. They are repairable and there are aftermarket replacements available from DDM but you need to know if the fenders are cracked as this can be up to a $1k swinger on the retail price.

You also want to take a good look at the bottom front. Because of the configuration of the car nearly every new owner rams them into curbs one to several times and they get damaged. At the very least there will be scrapes on the bottom of the bumper cover that you can use to get a lower price or commitment to repair from a dealer that you probably will not get from a private party seller.

You also want to take a hard look at the top. More than a few cars have had problems with the folding mechanism that has damaged the canvas where it folds over the windows and / or damage to the canvas when it rubs against an improperly adjusted side window. The top is also susceptible to damage from the hold down feet mounted on the trunk lid. The rubber feet come off, fail or even twist allowing direct contact between the mounting structure and the top canvas while the top is in the trunk. I have seen more than one car that has holes in the top due to this. The canvas is $1600 plus installation which at a dealer can run into several hundred dollars. And to the best of my knowledge while there are plenty of replacement canvas parts available, there are no more top assemblies in stock.

You want to visually inspect the cup holders. The front one is notorious for failing and they cost upwards of $100 for replacement parts plus installation labor. The rear one between the seats is much more robust however they can and do get so full of dust and dirt that they will no longer deploy. If treated well they are fine but you do not know till you try to pull the things out.

Another area that I recommend you inspect is the center console. If the previous drivers did like me and leaned on them hard while driving and used them as a support while getting in and out of the car, they all will crack right down the center. I have had mine replaced under the warranty but you are probably out of warranty. The cover is easy to replace but again is in the range of $100 for a replacement part from GM. There are several threads that cover reinforcing below the cover so it will not crack again and DDM has a replacement that is much stonger and includes two cup holders but again that is in the same cost plus shipping and you get to install it.

Many, maybe most of the key fobs for 2006 through 2008 at least have a known manufacturing problem. The metal tab / connector that holds the battery in place has a cold solder joint. The fob starts to work intermittently and eventually stops working. If you are good with a solder iron you can easily fix it as many of us have done, but if not, then the dealer will charge you around $100 for a replacement fob and programming it with the car. Potentially times two. If you have access to the fobs, you can pop them open and inspect the condition of the at risk part and know if you are good to go or not. If not, again you are much more likely to get the fob replaced as part of the deal by a dealer.
 

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If you look at used prices for 2007 Redlines nationwide they are all over the map. I see a low of $6,900 with 79k miles and a high of $15,900 with 34k miles and everything in between. I think Mike is probably pretty close in his estimate of $6,500 for a fair and reasonable price without knowing the history and condition of the car. My 07 Redline has 40k miles on it and I personally would be hard pressed to let it go for anything under $10,000. Is it worth that? Probably not.
 

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In central Phoenix, AZ I paid $9,000 for a black Redline with 72,000 miles on it with about an 8/10 cosmetically about 3-4 months ago. I ended up having to pour about $1,000 into it (water pump, hoses, spark plugs, steering fluid, brake fluid, oil, inner fenders), which was all done myself (so I saved on labor). I'll have to remove the transmission soon to replace the rear main seal, which will be a whole thing.
 

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If u use post#3 as your bell weather....u will never buy a used car. Buying a used car is ALWAYS a gamble. Sometimes u get lucky...other times.....
Mike is right, buying a used car is a gamble. No matter how good the deal is/was human nature is to second guess yourself. Perhaps having the car inspected before buying might give you additional peace of mind.
 

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I'm new to the site, thanks for your response in advance. I'm currently looking at a 2007 silver Redline with the 2 tone red/blk interior and 80k miles. It looks in good condition, I'm headed tomorrow to check it out. They have it listed for 7500. The reason I came here is I don't know if KBB or NADA value estimates are accurate for cars like this and what better place to ask than a forum.. Is this a fair price ? Also anything in paticular I should check out when I test drive the car ? Again, thanks for your time. R.
Yes 7,500 for a redline is a fair price. Even 8K for an automatic. Especially considering it has the custom black/red interior. Good deal.

If you're purchasing from a dealer the car would sell for over 10K. I don't agree that you should negotiate for 1K less.
 

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I realize that the post has a bunch of stuff in it...however, if he looks for even 20% of what's in that post, he will be doing good. I would never personally look at that much stuff, nor expect something 13 years old to have a perfect score on the above stuff....unless I was paying top dollar for it. It was only copied from other posts because this is the list that is growing on the Solstice forum of what to look for, whether a pristine car or a beater.... If he sticks to my first paragraph, and makes sure the top is good, and the transmission is smooth and no knocks in the engine, he's more then half way home.

As far as pricing goes...I've been following pricing for over 5 years. I've been pretty spot on with my figures. I don't use anything other then what I see on the internet. I keep track of cars on a spreadsheet and have been fairly accurate. I won't tell you that the car is worth $17k like a few others will on the Solstice forum. Certain colors and areas bring more or less money. For instance, a yellow Sky will bring an added $2500 roughtly. A car in MN vs TX will bring an extra $1k. I also won't undervalue a car price. This year has been difficult. Used car prices are all over the board. My 2018 Scat Charger that stickered at $40k is worth $38k to the dealer I bought it from right now even though my lease buyout is $29k. He offered me $35k for it so I would have $6k to put toward another Scat and my payment would probably be about 1/2 of what it is now. The only reason I haven't traded it is that I'm waiting for a specific color and options. Our cars actually really increased in value this year. My '08 GXP with 85k on the clock was a $7k car last year. This year I've seen worse cars and more mileage cars (100k+) go for $10k+. I've seen '06 NAs with 25k on them go for $15k. I've even seen an '08 Redline with 10k on it go for $22k. Pedal cars bring more money then autos. There was a person here that listed their '07 Sky NA with 125k miles...it was beat....needed 2 new fenders, some body work on the hood and both bumpers and a driver seat...and it was listed for $4500 and sold. And yes, I listen here on both forums to see what people are paying for cars, not advertised price. So the car he is looking at for $7500, is a GREAT deal this year!!!! Unless it needs work. If it needs body, interior, mechanical work, then it's a judgement call as to how much it's going to cost to make it work.
 
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Actually since RONA inflation has happened this car is underpriced!!! This car should be going for $10k-$12k. The major issues are waterpumps. Make sure it and the thermostat have been replaced. They are about $1300 and $700 respectively. Check for an orange, jelly like substance around and under the pump area. The pump is located on the passenger side, directly between the turbo and block. The fluid would be under that area. Another thing is the High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP). During a cold start it'll be very rapid, like a baseball card in your bicycle tire (found between the firewall and block in front of the driver). After about 3 minutes it should fall to a very steady, rythmatic tick. Like a clock ticking. If it's inconsistent, chances are it needs a new HPFP. Check the chin for any signs of damage. This could lead to a possible intercooler failure. Check to see if the car is tuned. If the owner doesn't know, look on the driver's side at the IC piping. If there is 1 screw holding the MAP sensor in, it's tuned. Check for rear diff leak. Common on the driver's side. Another issue could be the timing and balancer chain. And not cheap to replace...about $2200 at the dealer. Listen for any erratic metal to metal clicking in the front on cold start. It'll sound like a rock flying off a tire while driving. Find out when the battery was replaced last. A dying battery causes all sorts of electrical gremlins in these cars. Look for a CAI. If it has one, make sure the air filter isn't an oiled air filter. Oil gets on the MAF and causes a CEL. Look under the car, at each wheel. There should be 3 bolts holding each hub on from the backside. They were "under-tightened" from the factory and many people don't know this. So over time they work themselves out and come loose and fall out. A normal operating temp can be anywhere from 180 degrees to 215. The fan usually doesn't come on until 220 in most cars. So a way to make sure it's working is to turn on the A/C. The relays are common failure points. I've only seen a few fan motors quit, and they are very expensive. The Redlines require premium fuel and 100% synthetic oil changes. Anything other then 100% synthetic and the turbo doesn't last long. These are just some of the major things to look for.

Here, it's the third post down on the Solstice Forum. Things to Check Lots of things to check and can get overwhelming. Just in case you can't see I posted it here too from Sirwm:

this list is a gathering of information from other threads here on the forum.
This topic comes up so often.
Instead of pointing to the threads, I just cut&paste the items
into a file so that a question like yours can be answered reasonably.
( maybe pointing to other threads is better - who knows? :huh: )

Oh well... Here is what I have...

- - - - - - - - -

1) Run a CARFAX report to check for any issues on record

2) Go to the GM dealer with the VIN and pull a report from the GM maintenance database, it will provide a lot of useful info on maintenance, failures, mileage, and recalls applied or outstanding

3) Early 08s had the electric vacuum brake booster pump deleted. Some have had issues due to this. There are two fixes, one software one adds the pump back to the car as a "kit"

4) 09s had the center double cup holder deleted. Many find this a problem and some have had the dealer install one. See threads on this subject

5) 2010 MY has updated engine management software and is not compatible with the GMPP tune.

6) Check the front cup holder to see if it’s there and functional.

7) Visually inspect the differential for seeping / leaking and operation. Some 07s had noise issues and there was a recall to install a special additive to address issues.

8) Visually inspect the undercarriage. Look for damage due to lifting in the area of the front fenders and the front lift points. Put a torque wrench on the bolts that retain the wheels on the inside as there are a few cases of these coming loose. Check the shocks for leakage, there are a few instances of them failing prematurely.

9) Visually inspect the "chin" for damage, many have been run into curbs and need repair. It’s a place where you can easily get it fixed but could negotiate the fix into the purchase price.

10) Cycle the tops several times for proper operation and look for any wear on the sides where the trunk hold down feet contact the fabric. Some scuffing is ok but the unwary owner has often had the top holed in this area. Visually inspect the trunk lid to make sure the rubber portion of the hold down feet are intact and properly aligned. Check the top for proper deployment and any sticking as well as general alignment. Make sure the twin flaps move freely and smoothly. Verify that both buttresses release easily and completely. Check the condition of the trunk hinges and the torsion bars. If the trunk has popped open when in motion, the hinges can be damaged and the torsion bars are known to fail occasionally. The fix is to pull the rear bumper cover and while it’s not difficult, it can be a significant labor charge to get it done.

11) Visually inspect the center console. Many have failed due to their design. If the previous owner put any significant weight on the center console cover, it is most likely cracked. The cracking starts at the curved rear portion on the driver’s side and progresses up through the center of the console cover. Often you can press down on the cover and see it flexing abnormally in this area and determine that it is unsound. It’s an easy fix, but if out of the bumper to bumper warranty, it will cost about $100 for a new part. If in doubt, pull up on the rear of the console cover and it will pop up so you can visually inspect the underside.

12) Visually inspect the tire pump assembly in the trunk. It’s about $50 to replace and its all you have on the road.

13) Visually inspect the intercooler for damage or defects. Many have been run into curbs and damaged, they are subject to foreign object damage on the road and unless you give them a good look you may not discover it until you have a problem. In rare instances, GMPP equipped GXPs have experienced splitting of the IC can on the outlet side. It is hidden by the plastic shroud but you can infer damage if there are codes thrown regularly or on cold start you listen up front near the ground you can hear a sucking sound.

14) Manually inspect the hose clamps for tightness. Give the air cleaner a quick look. If its full of tons of junk, that may be an indicator of the attention that the car received from the current owner and be a subject for triggering a more detailed inspection of the car by a trusted tech.

15) Check the condition of the MAF sensor where it mates with the intake tubing up front. Some have been broken off and glued back on as an expedient repair. This is not necessarily bad but is another indicator of the level of attention the current owner gave to the car.

16) Check for heavy uneven wear in the tires. If they were rotated as required, they should be evenly worn. If they are not, then that is another indicator.

17) Pull up the passenger side carpet and give the BCM a quick look. Is the cover in place? Does it show signs of having been removed frequently? Are there any signs of modification or tampering?

18) Inspect the fuse / relay box on the left side of the engine bay at the firewall. Look for any signs of problems, excessive handling or modifications.

19) Visually inspect the turbo for any signs of external cracking, oil leaking, or “modifications” to the actuation rod. The locktite should be intact with no signs of the nut having been turned.

20) Check the coolant level and color. If there is any question or anomaly, have it tested for specific gravity.

21) Have a person sit in the passenger seat to verify the proper operation of the seat airbag sensor. Several have failed and its relatively expensive to have them repaired out of warranty.

22) Check for proper operation of the driver’s seat lift motor. Many are never used and need to be lubricated to free them up properly.

23) Road test the car. Make sure all systems are functional. Check the DIC for all displays and the presence of any codes or warnings.

24) Visually inspect all the rubber seals – they are hard to find and some are very expensive.

25) Visually inspect the condition of the headlight and tail light assemblies. They are expensive and difficult to find. Some light pitting can be polished out but cracks are a problem.

26) For automatic cars, drive the car in low speed conditions an check for smooth upshifts and downshifts. Some cars are experiencing very hard 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts apparently due to undiagnosed camshaft position sensor failures.

--


I think now would be a good time to start a checklist of possible problem areas on the Solstice for future used car buyers. Since the car is new now would be when the first problems will appear and we should make a record of them:

1) Leaking shocks
2) Push button for top doesn't work in glovebox consistently
3) #20 Connector in ECU harness contracts in cold breaking connection immobolizes the car
4) Leaky trim seals in trunk area
5) Power window problem some were built with the wiring harness to the main switch on the driver door not pushed in all the way and they worked their way out.
6) Passenger-side buttress sometimes won't close in cold weather.
7) Passenger and driver side buttress sometimes wont open in cold weather also.
8) Check the rear diff for leaking from a possibly not set correctly reliefe valve.
9) Leaking differential seal


Help!!! Looking at buying my first GXP

Items to inspect when buying used Solstice.

NA cars - that is the 2.4 L normally aspirated cars - are going for 100k, 200k and approaching 300kl miles with few problems. The problems are "normal" failures like water pumps, clogged catalytic converters etc. Some of the early cars had issues with the differential. Several were replaced under warranty. There was a recall for all 06 and 07 MY cars that addressed the rear end. Some cars have rear end wine and some have a "clunk" when making significant throttle changes. I have yet to see a failure resulting from these symptoms. The only failures I am aware of were loss of lubrication or just a mechanical failure . Again we are talking less than 10?

There have been issues with the tops early on due to improper adjustment of the top mechanism and / or the door windows. Some cars were built without the acoustic liner and are noisier. Some early cars were built with plastic ball end joints which failed in some cases are resulted in a redesign. Putting the top up without opening the doors or lowering the windows will cause issues over time. Failure to lubricate the side hinges over the windows can result in sticking.

There are cables that actuate the trunk release and the buttress releases. The plastic retention balls on the ends can fail and make it impossible to open the trunk normally.

You want to start with the local car because the Sky and Sol are highly susceptible to damage when lifted improperly. The front fenders crack frequently due to road vibration and are easily crushed if lifted with a floor jack. If there is damage you want to identify it before sale and with a dealer you can push to get them to repair the damage as part of the sale. There are basically no available right side factory fenders anymore and few left side fenders. They are repairable and there are aftermarket replacements available from DDM but you need to know if the fenders are cracked as this can be up to a $1k swinger on the retail price.

You also want to take a good look at the bottom front. Because of the configuration of the car nearly every new owner rams them into curbs one to several times and they get damaged. At the very least there will be scrapes on the bottom of the bumper cover that you can use to get a lower price or commitment to repair from a dealer that you probably will not get from a private party seller.

You also want to take a hard look at the top. More than a few cars have had problems with the folding mechanism that has damaged the canvas where it folds over the windows and / or damage to the canvas when it rubs against an improperly adjusted side window. The top is also susceptible to damage from the hold down feet mounted on the trunk lid. The rubber feet come off, fail or even twist allowing direct contact between the mounting structure and the top canvas while the top is in the trunk. I have seen more than one car that has holes in the top due to this. The canvas is $1600 plus installation which at a dealer can run into several hundred dollars. And to the best of my knowledge while there are plenty of replacement canvas parts available, there are no more top assemblies in stock.

You want to visually inspect the cup holders. The front one is notorious for failing and they cost upwards of $100 for replacement parts plus installation labor. The rear one between the seats is much more robust however they can and do get so full of dust and dirt that they will no longer deploy. If treated well they are fine but you do not know till you try to pull the things out.

Another area that I recommend you inspect is the center console. If the previous drivers did like me and leaned on them hard while driving and used them as a support while getting in and out of the car, they all will crack right down the center. I have had mine replaced under the warranty but you are probably out of warranty. The cover is easy to replace but again is in the range of $100 for a replacement part from GM. There are several threads that cover reinforcing below the cover so it will not crack again and DDM has a replacement that is much stonger and includes two cup holders but again that is in the same cost plus shipping and you get to install it.

Many, maybe most of the key fobs for 2006 through 2008 at least have a known manufacturing problem. The metal tab / connector that holds the battery in place has a cold solder joint. The fob starts to work intermittently and eventually stops working. If you are good with a solder iron you can easily fix it as many of us have done, but if not, then the dealer will charge you around $100 for a replacement fob and programming it with the car. Potentially times two. If you have access to the fobs, you can pop them open and inspect the condition of the at risk part and know if you are good to go or not. If not, again you are much more likely to get the fob replaced as part of the deal by a dealer.
Lol! I hav a silver 2007 silver, red/black interior with no problems! Hav pictures on here! Need $13,000! Let me kno! Jim
 
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