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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone share with me their setups in these cars for SCCA events? I'm looking for tire pressure tips on these cars or any other tips.


Thanks in advance.

380ss
 

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I'm sure some of the competitors will chime in. You may be limited to what frame stiffeners you can use depending on class, and the Solo artist tell me that you want less front roll stiffness than you do on the street - they often fit the ZOK rear bar but stay with the stock front.

The tire pressures will depend to a degree on what tires you are running. I suggest that you post your set up so someone with a similar car can offer specifics.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't want to hear that our cars need less stiffness up front. I just bought sportline springs for the 1.9" drop.

I would like to hear what camber and caster settings people are using too.
 

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Solo set up

Can anyone share with me their setups in these cars for SCCA events? I'm looking for tire pressure tips on these cars or any other tips.

Thanks in advance.

380ss
Most Kappa cars use the ZOK coilovers, the ZOK rear sway bar and the FE3 front sway bar. The ZOK springs lower the car about 1 1/2 inch. I ran my LE5 SKY this way in STR for 3 years. The balance is very good with this set up. Your sport line springs are probably pretty close to the ZOK spring rates, but they will put you in a different class since they're not stock.

Your pressures are going to depend on your tires. I ran 28 to 34 PSIG. If you are not on a high performance tire I would start at 34 PSIG and check your side walls for roll over. You can use chalk to mark the corners to see if your rolling over onto your side walls. I wouldn't deviate more than +/- 5 PSIG from the factory setting of 29 PSIG. A good set of tires will make a lot of difference.

For the tires, I've used the Dunlop Direzza Z1 and the Hankook R-S3. The Z1 ones were an excellent tire. Dunlop upgraded the tire to the ZII, but they quit making the 245/45 size so I went with the R-S3 in the 245/40 size. This is also an excellent tire, very good when its hot, not so good when its cold.

If this is your first time walked the course until you can visualize the layout. Break it into segments, i.e., 5 cone slalom, hard right, short straight, 180 turn, etc.. Drive the first time through at 50% speed. The course will look different sitting in the car and it will come at you faster. Drive the course looking ahead for the next segment.

Solo II is a great fun!
 

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Your sport line springs are probably pretty close to the ZOK spring rates, but they will put you in a different class since they're not stock.
I'm certainly no SCCA expert, but don't the Z0K shocks and sway bar also change your class for a Sky? The Z0K package was a factory option on the Solstice, but was not available on the Sky.

Sure, the parts fit just fine, but that's not the same as being "stock".
 

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... but don't the Z0K shocks and sway bar also change your class for a Sky? ...
Good point! I sure thought the Redline was offered with the sport suspension package that included the ZOK parts. If your intent is to compete in the B street category you need find out what you can and can't do to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do like the way the sport lines look.... would these springs put me in SM (street modified)?

I have the OEM tires still... car only has 22k on it so I can't justify new tires just yet. I'm sure a few track runs and these tires will be smoked, then I'll go get a set of good slicks.

What camber settings did you have?
 

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I do like the way the sport lines look.... would these springs put me in SM (street modified)?
It looks to me you could run in BSR. I would read the rule book to make sure. If you still have questions someone at the event should be able to help you also.

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2014%20Solo%20Rules%20Book%207%20w%20cover%20and%20links.pdf


...What camber settings did you have?
I run with -1.75 in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I drive my car a lot during the warmer months. I don't get any adverse wear patterns with these settings. I've got a lifetime alignment deal with Firestone. I usually have my alignment checked a couple of times a year.

Drive fast and don't hit any cones!
:driving:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My observations from my first solo event.

I'm taking my time with mod-ing this car for solo activity. That said, here is a review of the auto tranny car with sport line lowering springs on stock tires, drop in filter no tune.

1. Torq steer sucks!

There was one part of the track that exceeded the limits of auto in "low" gear and would up shift into second, of course when that happened the whole rear end would come lose do to the high boost and torq. Contacted Dave at Performance Autowerks and inquired if manipulating shift points were available with these cars by way of a Tune. Answer back was no, which leaves me with very limited or expensive options to keep the car in low throughout the course of the track. Not sure how to address this issue yet. Need more track time to better assess.

2. Plows into corners!

Not sure how much blame I want to just place on the tires here, definitely seems the stock bielstiens shocks have loss some damping up front (22k miles). Better tires and Shocks are definitely needed.

3. Slow spool time or instant on!

What do I mean by this? At take off, the lag is there then wham, on comes the boost out goes the rear end, and off comes my foot = sucks!

More to follow.....
 

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Notes below

My observations from my first solo event.

I'm taking my time with mod-ing this car for solo activity. That said, here is a review of the auto tranny car with sport line lowering springs on stock tires, drop in filter no tune.

1. Torq steer sucks!

There was one part of the track that exceeded the limits of auto in "low" gear and would up shift into second, of course when that happened the whole rear end would come lose do to the high boost and torq. Contacted Dave at Performance Autowerks and inquired if manipulating shift points were available with these cars by way of a Tune. Answer back was no, which leaves me with very limited or expensive options to keep the car in low throughout the course of the track. Not sure how to address this issue yet. Need more track time to better assess.

Why not just shift it yourself? Run in low and only shift if you need to. You have discovered one of the problems with automatics in slalom and road racing - they shift when they want to, not when you want them to - unless you do it yourself.

2. Plows into corners!

Not sure how much blame I want to just place on the tires here, definitely seems the stock bielstiens shocks have loss some damping up front (22k miles). Better tires and Shocks are definitely needed.

Might need to play around with sway bars - the slalom guys tell us that they don't want additional roll stiffness at the front for those slow corners, and only upgrade the rear bar. Obviously having shocks in great shape is necessary too.

3. Slow spool time or instant on!

What do I mean by this? At take off, the lag is there then wham, on comes the boost out goes the rear end, and off comes my foot = sucks!

The power progression is very smooth on the turbo, and it is actually a gentler transition to power than you get with a 'cammy' conventionally aspirated engine. You'll get used to that.

More to follow.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would have never considered the rear sway bar..... thanks for the tip.

I will def try the "self-shifting" method in my next event.
 
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