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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

I question how my door glass seals to the "A" pillar.
One door defaulted to condition "A".
The other defaulted to condition "B".
Which is correct? A or B?

Condition "A"
111939



Condition "B"
111940


Closing the windows with the doors closed can change from B to A pending the door.
Closing the doors with the windows already up can flip the condition.
Regardless of the case, neither is completely consistent. There is always a small area along the edge that is opposite the majority. It is surely not right. I want to train the gasket to be right, whatever "right" is.

Which is the intended glass-to-seal relationship?

I sure wish I could buy a new seal for my "PLAN-A" top & seal design for it would address multiple issues.
 

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If I am seeing your pictures correctly, mine all fit Condition B, with the glass on the outside of the seal, which should be what happens when you close the door with the window up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What you state makes the most sense.

After you posted your reply, I thought about my situation more and wonder if my passenger door glass is not traveling high enough or forward enough to contact the seal properly. The door itself is aligned perfectly to the body so the issue does not originate there. The door glass also appears to seat well the the convertible top.

I will study it more closely when I get more time allocated to it. Right now my interior is sprawled throughout my work shop. I need to clean it all up, make some minor repairs to some broken mounting tabs, clean the removed carpets, and do something with the leather seats. The leather is a bit stiff, will be trying a fancy leather conditioner I never used a Corvette project.
 

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For what its worth, the only parts of the seats that are leather are the "seating surfaces", so there is a lot of vinyl there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My side windows had a very poor tinting job done by someone who either did not know what they were doing, or the tint degraded over the years. I decided to remove the door glass to clean everything proper. While removing the glass, there was evidence the glass was removed before, maybe by the person who tinted them. I think whoever reinstalled the glass that last time, did a poor job of aligning them properly to the vehicle which explains the gasket mismatches. So when I reinstall the glass, I will make certain the glass aligns properly with the "A" pillar and convertible top per condition "B".

I wish I thought of taking a picture of the worst window before removing the tint. It was so wavy that it resembled privacy glass. The tint in this second one is so much better but still not right. I never liked aftermarket tinting anyway so no loss here except for my time.
112006
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I spent an hour or two installing both cleaned-up door windows and aligned them proper. "WOW" what an improvement in different ways.

  • I can see out the windows without getting dizzy.
  • With film-tint removed, the windows go up and down much faster (less resistance).
  • Now, the doors close tight against the vehicle, eliminating the loose door rattles I previously had.
  • The windows seal SO MUCH BETTER all around, but especially where the three different components meet (convertible top, pillar-rubber, glass). I now have CONDITION-B everywhere. I recall a lot of wind-whistle when driving the car home from Georgia, so I anticipate a monumental improvement with that. I did not mention this before, but I noticed water marks on the inside of the glass straight down from those two corners. It explains the wet under-carpets.
Now I have to deal with "deformation memory" of the gasket from the previously misaligned windows. I wonder if heating up the gasket with a hair dryer would snap it back into proper position. It is only at the previously mentioned corners. I have to press there while closing the doors to make it seal right. Adding to the challenge, the main "A" pillar gasket is now 13 years old and lost some flexibility.

My restoration progress continues.
 

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My initial reaction is to avoid artificially heating the rubber and to let it return to shape naturally, if it will. Unless you have an immediate need to get a better seal I think that time is your friend.
 
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