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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
this is for a redline but im sure the base model could use most of the same instructions if not all of them.

1. mount the module. i put it under the dash behind the steering wheel and used heavy duty velcro (youll have to remove the bottom plastic cover to get up it there, no pic of that though but you can figure it out). i also placed it in a way that i could fit my finger in between the gap to make adjustments without having to remove anything.



2. if you have a shift light led that plugs into the back of the wotbox then you can do it like this for a easy/unintrusive install that involves no cutting or drilling or gluing. doesnt look the best but it works so you can change as you see fit.



3. next you want to run the blue wire up to the throttle position sensor connector(has a purple clip in it). this is for telling the module when youre at wot. once there youll solder it to the blue wire going into the connector.

i accidentally broke my wire but it soldered back together just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
4. now youre going to run the green wire to the clutch position sensor connector. this lets the module know when to engage or disengage the 2-step/nls system.


this is the tricky part, getting to that connector. you just have to reach and pray that you get it lol. its not impossible but it might take you a while to unclip it especially if you have big hands.



heres what the clip looks like and the green wire soldered to the green wire.


5. screw the ground wire to the bracket that goes to the hood release handle.


6. run the remaining yellow, black, and red wires through the firewall. theres a plastic circular piece that you can make a slice in and feed the wires through (i cut a + shape).


you can see that i routed it behind the rubber mat that touches the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
7. now we run the three wires through the engine bay to where they need to go.



8. take the yellow wire and run it to the last spark plug connector. youre going to open up the electrical tape to expose the four wires going into the connector.

youre going to solder the yellow wire to the PURPLE wire, not the pink and black wire like i did on accident lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
9. now were left with the black/red and red wires.

keep black/red to the left and red to the right as this will help with the final steps with the fuse box (i did trial and error with mine and had to splice in extra black wire to reach the fuse box).


10. i drilled two small holes (couldnt tell you the size because i dont remember) and inserted two small grommets for the wires to go through to keep out water and make the install more clean and functional.


11. insert the left black/red wire into the left port of the #45 fuse and the right red wire into the right port (i used a makeshift type connector so youll have to use your imagination on how to plug the wires in here).

once your done it should look clean like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
12. clean up! i used plastic wire container tubing to wrap all my wires up for a clean look and zip tied everything up to the hood latch release wire.





voila! now its installed! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
this is the manufactures instructions in case anything here isnt clear enough or you want to double check. it also shows how to troubleshoot and check to make sure the wotbox is working properly before driving it (towards the bottom of the page):
https://sites.google.com/a/npcompleteperformance.com/www2/wotbox_instructions_pontiac_solstice.pdf?attredirects=0

how to program it (also mentioned at the bottom of the above link):
User Guide - N2MB Racing

how to make a shift light for the wotbox:
Shift Light - N2MB Racing

wotbox software:
Software - N2MB Racing
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i made this tutorial to help out the guy i sold my wotbox too. pictures were taken while uninstalling it which is why everything is already soldered in the pics (and that wire was broke too lol).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
special note about the fuse, some people like installing a fuse inline instead of going straight to the fuse port like i did.

now i never had a problem with my setup but if you install a fuse inline with the setup and it blows for whatever reason your vehicle will not start or run, trust me i know lol. if you go this route be sure to keep extra fuses in the car just in case. its a 15amp fuse too btw.

i hope this write up helps some people out, i know i had a hard time when i did it with the limited instructions i could find.

any questions just let me know.
 

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awesome so now questions about after its installed and working great...

What tires and wheels do you have...
What mods...
Power level?

What settings are you using for the launch?
 

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I have one in my car and its great... 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust and no cat and no resonators or muffler and with the NLS I shoot out some nasty flames out of all 4 tips... sounds as loud as a shot gun lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah ive shot out flames with the nls too, its pretty awesome lol. makes a nice pop too.

i dont have it installed anymore, i took it off and sold it to a fellow forum member.

i kept my 2-step at 2k rpms and it would only chirp the tires and not roast them like 3k does. i didnt really experiment enough with it to find a sweet spot for launching.
 

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yeah ive shot out flames with the nls too, its pretty awesome lol. makes a nice pop too.

i dont have it installed anymore, i took it off and sold it to a fellow forum member.

i kept my 2-step at 2k rpms and it would only chirp the tires and not roast them like 3k does. i didnt really experiment enough with it to find a sweet spot for launching.
I did this install as you instructed and for some reason i go into limp mode around 5000rpms in 3rd and 4th gear? Any help?
 

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Couple of things I need to add here. First, this thread should be a sticky! It is step by step on what to do. Second, VERY IMPORTANT!

DO NOT USE THE INSTALL DIRECTIONS FROM THE COMPANY FOR INSTALLING TO SKY REDLINE.

I paid a mechanic $350 to do this install and gave them these directions, but also the directions from the company. They used the directions from the company (big mistake). Both sets of directions are initially the same UNTIL you have the wires going into the engine compartment. This is where you should NOT USE THE COMPANY'S instructions. My mechanic wired the red and orange (previously black and red) wires into the pink and black wires on the coil pack harness going towards the front of the card. This never worked, and caused a miss.

I traced it and cut and resoldered the pink and black wire together. Then took the red and orange wire (formerly black and red) and added extension wire then broke a 15 fuse apart. I got two separate prongs (left the plastic behind the prongs for grip. Then took the left wire and wrapped around the left prong and the right wire and wrapped it around the right prong. I then used electrical tape from the prong to the end of the plastic on each prong to insulate. Then you just shove the prongs into the #45 fuse spots (make sure you have the right wires in the right holes). Sure enough, everything works perfectly now!

The reason I knew the company's directions don;t work is because (if it was the main ignition signal that the pink and black wire was supposed to be) when I left it unplugged the car shouldn't have started. Well it did! Obviously that wrong since the N2MB is supposed to control ignition! If you do it the way venom says it will work perfectly!
 

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Also another thing. This is not just plug and play! It won't work right when you get wired up!

You need to download the software onto your laptop then program the unit. Mine started off defaulted to srt-4 which is wrong. Also, you need to INVERT the clutch. Where it says SRT-4 you have to click OTHER and Ignition something. That should show you the RPMS as well.

To know it's working I set my 2 step to 2000rpms. You have to click write to get it programed. Then have the clutch in and push the gas to the floor. If it stops at 2000rpms you are golden!
 

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What is the WOT Box?

The WOT Box is an electronic device that makes WOT shifting easy by reducing your engine's power for a very short timed period while you shift. It allows the synchros in your transmission to mesh easily, reducing the chance of missing a gear and damaging your transmission. If the input shaft on a manual transmission is not allowed to slow down enough it will lock you out of gear time after time. We have developed a solution to the problem by controlling the ignition at the shift point to ease the transition from one gear to another.

What is WOT Shifting?

WOT shifting is a common practice used by drag racers regardless of if they are running turbo, supercharger or naturally aspirated. WOT shifting is accomplished by holding the gas pedal to the floor and never "lifting" off the gas during the shift. The problem with doing so is when you depress the clutch engine RPMs flare up and a brief amount of time is required for the transmission input shaft to slow down. Even the most successful drivers have been known to miss a gear occasionally. It requires complete concentration and lightning quick reactions in order to pull it off.

"Keep the pedal to the metal, blip the clutch, and grab the next gear. Do it fast enough before the redline, and your reward will be a zero lag, constant boost shift."

When you WOT shift, your engine is still producing peak power through the shift. With the clutch released, the engine revs up. This increase in RPMs and the full output power of the engine makes it very difficult for the synchros in your transmission to engage. The result means that WOT shifting can be very difficult and potentially damaging to your transmission.

How does the WOT Box make WOT Shifting easy?

Our WOT Box momentarily disrupts the engine power long enough for you to make an effortless, fast WOT shift. The result?
•Lower ETs - One of our big turbo customer cars dropped their E.T. in the quarter mile from 12.0 to 11.3 seconds just by adding the WOT Box!
•Reduced chance of missing a gear
•More consistent, effortless shifts
•Reduced wear on the transmission
•Reduced chance of major transmission damage
 

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How does NLS work on this if you have GMPP? Is it a different way to achieve the same result?
 

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How does NLS work on this if you have GMPP? Is it a different way to achieve the same result?
GMPP tune is for Redlines and GXPs only. Many other aftermarket tunes will incorporate NLS as well.

This box would be for those not wanting to do a tune OR those who own a 2.4 base (like me) and want NLS.
 

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How does NLS work on this if you have GMPP? Is it a different way to achieve the same result?
It cuts spark (I would assume just like the GMPP does). The differences here are that the WOT BOX can also do two step! That's huge if you do 1/4 mile. I set up the 2 step the other day for 2000rpms. Floor the throttle with the clutch in and it will cut spark and limit the rpms to 2000. The kicker was that I noticed it allowed me to build at least 1 pound of boost everytime I did this. Meaning I'm already in boost when I let the clutch out from the line! Pretty awesome!

Another BIG (and in my opinion better) thing that the WOT Box does over GMPP is that instead of having to find that "zone" with the GMPP where it's like 6800rpms or something where the NLS will actually work; the WOT BOX will work anytime you have the gas floored past (I think) 4000rpms so you know you are going to be able to actually get a NLS everytime. I have a 2007 redline so my Trifecta won't engage the NLS feature and I haven't used it, but I would think it would be scary at that high of an rpm and having to worry about perfectly being in an RPM range to have the NLS work. If you are 50rpms short or long and try to do that without the NLS kicking in you better hope you have a perfect shift or it's prolly going to do some damage.
 

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Update... I was testing it out this morning to get specific info on it. With the trifecta tune going from 2nd to 3rd I top out in 2nd at 23psi. I run 2nd out to red line then go to shift to third while keeping the gas floored. When I push the clutch pedal down the wot box senses the gas is floored and cuts spark for 350ms allowing me to easily shift to third. The kicker is that boost only drops to about 15psi during the shift and I had the windows down once I let the clutch out I could hear the tires chirping!

That's crazy when you think about it. At red line in 2nd I'm already doing close to 60 and then chirping into 3rd! It has to be creating an insane amount of torque at that speed to chirp tires!
 

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Forgot to update this thread. So, at the track it definitely works~! I tried to do a normal launch without the 2step and bogged bad. Set the 2 step to 4000rpms and let her rip and got a 2.1 60' and set the NLS to .125mls and wound up with a 13.6 at 102. I know next year I'll be able to do better. I did that with full pressure street tires. If I lower the starting rpm to like 3700rpms I think I can get a 2.0, and if I lower the tire pressure to about 20psi then up the starting rpms again to 4000 I think I'd be able to get the sub 2 60'. Sucks I have to wait until next year though....
 
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