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I was wondering if it is normal for the ignition coil to sit slightly tilted when the bolt on the ignition coil is tightened down. I noticed this recently after running into a small patch of water during some heavy rain last week which lead to the car sputtering. After a short investigation I found the problem. I pulled the ignition coils off and found a slight amount of water. Like a couple drops which after drying out seemed to take care of the sputter and misfire. Also the boot instead of coming out in one piece came apart in several pieces when I was pulling them out to check so I'll be getting new ignition coils very soon. The rubber stayed in the engine along with the spring, the fuse popped out along with the top of the ignition coil which I had in my hand. Three of them did this, one came out as one piece. I noticed water in two. Rolling up a paper towel and pushing it down around the spark plug got the excess water that was around it, and I left everything open for some hours to dry out in this texas heat. Running fine at the moment. But to my main question, I thought it was odd that the ignition coils do not sit straight when tightened but instead at the slightest angel. If I turn the bolt back a little it sits fully horizontal. There's a slight lip where the bolt tightens the coil on the engine, and the bolt tightens down into it.
 

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Can someone show me the location of the ignition coil in our car? Back in the old days it was always located by the distributor cap.
 

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After reading this, that was some puddle of water you drove though, to get water into the top half of
your motor, enough to wet the plugs. You drive through that much water, lucky you didn't have a worse condition
to deal with here. Water winglets for your Kappa....

Not knowing the current mileage on your odo at the time, IS this the first plug change for your car? First real misfire of
any kind during your ownership? They err GM says our plugs should be.... good for 100K before changing them out, but
that seems to long of a time before a close inspection of what the plugs do look like after so many years of wear and tear.
IF it ain't broke don't mess with it...

I have read, heard other car shows guru's that when changing the plugs on your car, you should change the coil packs too
at the same time. IF neither of these has been done, since it left the factory, then it might be time for this change regardless
of the water intrusion, misfire you now have. Piece of mind down the road, from this point forward on the odo count.

Not fitting correctly when installed, is a new one I think here on the forum. Seated and flush to the opening before tightening
for each one? Some might fit fine, and others not so much. With no photos I could find on this problem, maybe an introduction
to this with a detail description of what we owners are looking for concerning your troubles here? I know for a fact my plugs and coils
are OEM, have not been changed from the factory or during my ownership. Might be time to take a look at mine now.

Cost is relative to usage. For under appox. $ 150. and hour or more, depending on adult beverages consumed during this process is not too bad, after years of wear and tear.

My other suggestion here: Stay away from big puddles when driving your Kappa.

LAC
 

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Can someone show me the location of the ignition coil in our car? Back in the old days it was always located by the distributor cap.
Coil-on-plug technology. My 2004 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8 has coil-near-plug technology. Each plug had it's own coil but there's like a 4" spark plug wire between each coil and it's associated plug. I think the last time you saw cars with consolidated coils and coil packs was the early/mid 2000s. I know the 3800 (up to 2008 in the Grand Prix I believe?) still had a consolidated coil pack.
 

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Sure, but there's four of them - one for each spark plug. Here's one, circled:

I just got an education....I never knew that those were ignition coils....always used to see them as a cylinder which hooked on to the distributor cap...and when the car wouldn't start in the old days....u would take off the wire from the top of the coil and when u turned on the ignition...if there was no spark...u knew it was the coil. That is why I never touch my car. Too much technology. Thank u Robo and TS
 

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I just got an education....I never knew that those were ignition coils....always used to see them as a cylinder which hooked on to the distributor cap...and when the car wouldn't start in the old days....u would take off the wire from the top of the coil and when u turned on the ignition...if there was no spark...u knew it was the coil. That is why I never touch my car. Too much technology. Thank u Robo and TS
See, and you thought you had read it all. LOL ;)

Actually, coil-on-plug setups seem so much easier to me. Undo one plug, remove one screw, off. No coil wires to route or replace, everything nice and sealed. More expensive since you're dealing with one coil per plug but seems much easier to deal with than the older stuff especially on our cars.
 

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See, and you thought you had read it all. LOL ;)

Actually, coil-on-plug setups seem so much easier to me. Undo one plug, remove one screw, off. No coil wires to route or replace, everything nice and sealed. More expensive since you're dealing with one coil per plug but seems much easier to deal with than the older stuff especially on our cars.
I expect that it might actually be less expensive overall, especially for four cylinders. Sure there are multiple coils, but they are less expensive because they don't have to be as capable, there are no plug cables, and you don't have a distributor with its cap rotor and precision drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here are a few images. It never looks the same on camera the way it's seen in person but I got as good a perspective as I could to show how they sit a little slanted. I marked the photo where the bolt actually pulls the coil down into the indentation as it's tightened.
 

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Definitely not supposed to be like that. They should be strong enough to sit flush with just the one bolt. Just did mine, original after 78k, perfectly flat. I am struggling to figure out how on earth that could have even occurred.
 

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I think the problem is that the spring and end cap are not on the plug correctly could be because it was in several pieces and didn't get it aligned properly.:|
 

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My Charger has 8...with 2 plug wires/caps coming off of each one!! :D Needless to say, plugs for it are about $130 just for plugs! Good thing it's a lease.
 
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