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When I first got my 2.4, 9 years ago, I used 93 octane because it was recommended in the owner's manual. Back then, the difference in price was about $0.30 per gallon. When the difference became $0.60, I started to wonder. I switched to 87 with no noticeable difference in performance or fuel mileage. I've put 53k miles on the car in 9 years, but I'm driving it less now. It's not a make or break situation; I can afford to use 93, but why throw away $0.60 per gallon? :huh:
 

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When I first got my 2.4, 9 years ago, I used 93 octane because it was recommended in the owner's manual. Back then, the difference in price was about $0.30 per gallon. When the difference became $0.60, I started to wonder. I switched to 87 with no noticeable difference in performance or fuel mileage. I've put 53k miles on the car in 9 years, but I'm driving it less now. It's not a make or break situation; I can afford to use 93, but why throw away $0.60 per gallon? :huh:
That is a hell of a price bump...though this coming from a guy who plans on where to get gas based on a $0.10 difference per gallon for the same grade.

Out here the difference in 87 vs 91 (wish we had 93) is about $0.20 - $0.30...
 

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That is a hell of a price bump...though this coming from a guy who plans on where to get gas based on a $0.10 difference per gallon for the same grade.

Out here the difference in 87 vs 91 (wish we had 93) is about $0.20 - $0.30...
Today I paid $2.39 for 87. 89 was $2.69 and 93 was $2.99.
 

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Those prices are disgusting to those of us above the border.

I pay around $1.72 a liter for 94 (which I need to run with my tune, or resign myself to lots of knock reduction in timing). That equates to US $4.60 a gallon. The fact that a lot of the gas you are pumping came from above the border adds insult to injury. It is all due to our government and all the taxes they add in. Arghhh!
 

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The price you pay for living in paradise!
Shhhh!

We don't want those Eastern guys to find out how good our weather is (who minds a little rain?) or they'll all want to move out here!
 

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I have a thread going over there right now because nobody here or on the Solstice forum can answer some questions for me about what causes a Commanded AFR to run really rich...so I'm getting schooled over there and have some help.... People here have tried, and I'm greatful for that, but couldn't answer some of the questions I had...so I went to plan B.
Can you tell me more about this? I am having the same problem. My boost has gone from 24 down to 18, occasionally 20. It was a lot worse before I cleaned the MAF sensor. Sometimes limited to 3 to 5 PSI and really rough idle.
I really want to know what is causing the problem. It is less responsive at low RPM, doesn't generate boost like it should.
 

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I assume not, since you didn't mention it, but are you seeing the service engine light and getting any codes?

You could have a damaged MAF or an air leak, but I would expect a code. How dirty was the MAF?
 

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I did get a check engine light. I don't recall the code right now. Rich at idle on bank 1.
The MAF looked like it was covered with dust. I wouldn't say it was excessive, but it was dirty.

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P2178 – System too rich off idle, bank 1

I also replaced the air filter, while doing so, the air intake hose cracked where the line connects to the exhaust. I am working on getting the air intake hose replacement.
I also believe that an air leak would cause this problem. So I'm looking at replacing all of the air hoses and clamps with the DDMWorks silicone stuff.
Maybe I should start a new thread.
Does it make sense to replace the charge tubes and intercooler while I am in there?


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P2178 – System too rich off idle, bank 1

I also replaced the air filter, while doing so, the air intake hose cracked where the line connects to the exhaust. I am working on getting the air intake hose replacement.
I also believe that an air leak would cause this problem. So I'm looking at replacing all of the air hoses and clamps with the DDMWorks silicone stuff.
Maybe I should start a new thread.
Does it make sense to replace the charge tubes and intercooler while I am in there?


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That would be your HPFP is leaking.

So first things first...you need to get the air line fixed before you look at anything else....

IF....you are still getting the p2178 too rich at idle, then your HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) is leaking into the motor and you need to change the HPFP. Smell your oil...does it smell like raw fuel? If so, then you probably need to replace the HPFP.

The reason you only get 17-20psi of boost is because your ECM is "PENDING" a CEL. Many people here don't know this, but there are certain sensors that can "PEND" a CEL. What has happened is that your ECM has picked up on a rich condition, but it hasn't been rich long enough to set a CEL. So what the ECM then does is restricts some of the power as a precaution. Once you've cycled the ignition so many times, or driven so many minutes, the PENDING code is dropped. I can guarantee, when you are experiencing the little bit of reduced boost, if you check for codes, the p2178 will be in a PENDING state. Once in a PENDING state, to set the CEL, the ECM must detect the same issue within XX minutes at least 2 more times, or it will clear the PENDING code. Once the CEL is set and shows up on your gauge cluster, then the car will be reduced to the 5-7psi of boost. Hope this helps....

How many miles on your car? Mine had 60k when I put the DDM throttle body elbow on...and the OEM one literally disintegrated in my hands.... As far as replacing the IC....probably not necessary unless you've hit a parking curb or you think it's split.

EDIT: Can't type tonight....typo's fixed....
 

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My car has 29k miles on it. It sat in a garage mostly unused, with 6k miles on it, until I purchased it.
I installed the trifecta, replaced all the fluids, belts and tires.
The throttle body hose has come loose on me a couple of times. Which is the reason I want to replace all the hoses with silicone.
I've seen from this forum that the intercooler seems prone to failure. That and the silicone charge pipe connectors being designed for 2.5" ports, are the reasons for wanting to change the intercooler and charge pipes. The charge pipes, intercooler, hoses and clamps all designed to work together, will I believe make the car more reliable. I have also read that the stock system was only designed around 17 PSI and does not hold up well to the 24 PSI I am getting.

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I spoke to Dave at DDMWORKS, he is checking to see if he has silicone charge pipe connectors that fit the stock intercooler and charge pipes. Will find out next week.

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If you don't want to spend money maintaing a Sky buy an SL2 instead.

The SL2 and SC2 are mechanically simple and you can do a lot of maintenance yourself and parts are readily available at pick-n-pull and ebay.

I've owned my Sky for 3 years and invested a lot into it.

The Sky is my primary car. I have a SL2 backup.

But most spending was discretionary and wasn't necessary.

Regarding maintenance though. I've:

1. Replaced the water pump and thermostat
2. Replaced the turn signal assembly on the steering wheel.
3. Replaced the tires and battery
4. Replaced the HVAC in the console (a light went out)
5. Replaced the passenger side plastic door handle
6. Once had to pay to get the passenger side convertible-top peg to pop out
7. Replaced a tail light
8. Replaced header gasket

The biggest risk with a car like a Sky is you'll fall in love with it like several forum members have....

And you'll spend a lot of money turning the turbo or converting to an Opel-GT.

I purchased my car for 8,000 and I've spent more then 6,000 on cools stuff and installation.
Pioneer radio/phone. DDMWorks suspension package. Aluminum alloy wheels. Opel-GT branding. OEM dual exhaust.

Also - your Sky will purr like a kitten and will call to you to abuse it. My car screams and grunts and handles like a cat. The automatic transmission downshifts. So you'll have higher insurance costs and more speeding tickets.
 

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That would be your HPFP is leaking.

So first things first...you need to get the air line fixed before you look at anything else....

IF....you are still getting the p2178 too rich at idle, then your HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) is leaking into the motor and you need to change the HPFP. Smell your oil...does it smell like raw fuel? If so, then you probably need to replace the HPFP.

The reason you only get 17-20psi of boost is because your ECM is "PENDING" a CEL. Many people here don't know this, but there are certain sensors that can "PEND" a CEL. What has happened is that your ECM has picked up on a rich condition, but it hasn't been rich long enough to set a CEL. So what the ECM then does is restricts some of the power as a precaution. Once you've cycled the ignition so many times, or driven so many minutes, the PENDING code is dropped. I can guarantee, when you are experiencing the little bit of reduced boost, if you check for codes, the p2178 will be in a PENDING state. Once in a PENDING state, to set the CEL, the ECM must detect the same issue within XX minutes at least 2 more times, or it will clear the PENDING code. Once the CEL is set and shows up on your gauge cluster, then the car will be reduced to the 5-7psi of boost. Hope this helps....

How many miles on your car? Mine had 60k when I put the DDM throttle body elbow on...and the OEM one literally disintegrated in my hands.... As far as replacing the IC....probably not necessary unless you've hit a parking curb or you think it's split.

EDIT: Can't type tonight....typo's fixed....
[/QUOTE
That would be your HPFP is leaking.

So first things first...you need to get the air line fixed before you look at anything else....

IF....you are still getting the p2178 too rich at idle, then your HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) is leaking into the motor and you need to change the HPFP. Smell your oil...does it smell like raw fuel? If so, then you probably need to replace the HPFP.

The reason you only get 17-20psi of boost is because your ECM is "PENDING" a CEL. Many people here don't know this, but there are certain sensors that can "PEND" a CEL. What has happened is that your ECM has picked up on a rich condition, but it hasn't been rich long enough to set a CEL. So what the ECM then does is restricts some of the power as a precaution. Once you've cycled the ignition so many times, or driven so many minutes, the PENDING code is dropped. I can guarantee, when you are experiencing the little bit of reduced boost, if you check for codes, the p2178 will be in a PENDING state. Once in a PENDING state, to set the CEL, the ECM must detect the same issue within XX minutes at least 2 more times, or it will clear the PENDING code. Once the CEL is set and shows up on your gauge cluster, then the car will be reduced to the 5-7psi of boost. Hope this helps....

How many miles on your car? Mine had 60k when I put the DDM throttle body elbow on...and the OEM one literally disintegrated in my hands.... As far as replacing the IC....probably not necessary unless you've hit a parking curb or you think it's split.

EDIT: Can't type tonight....typo's fixed....
It has taken a while to get it all done, but I have replaced all of my air hoses with silicone and t-bolt clamps. There was a small air leak at the hose going from the turbo side charge tube to the intercooler. The car would run good but still would not produce 24 psi of boost. No pending codes, I would shut the car off, start it again a day or two later and it would not want to start and an extremely rough idle. Still no pending codes. I checked the ECM and wiring harness for any corrosion or damage and it looked really good. That is when I checked the oil dipstick, and it definitely smells like fuel. I ordered a new fuel pump from ZZPerformance on ebay. It arrived day before yesterday. It did not include the gasket, o-ring or bolts. So my question now is where to get those parts. I can find the o-ring and gaskets on rockauto, but there are multiple part numbers and I am not sure which ones to get. Once I pull the pump, I can go get new bolts from the local hardware store. Can you guys help me out with the gasket and o-ring?
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