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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, looking at adding a sub, and have read pretty much every available thread on adding an aftermarket subwoofer. I'd like to avoid retrofitting the OE assembly and started wondering if there is anything in behind this:

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I want to go in a different direction and cut that middle piece (red arrow) if there is nothing behind in order to have a large area that is easier to work with and offers many more options. I dont know if it provides structural rigidity or not.

There are a couple of threads where people cut the bottom hole out to make more room for a larger sub, and there is also a PDF from some guys that did a good install as seen below:

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Ideas? Suggestions? Thanks!
 

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I don't seem to understand your question because it appears you already have the answer.

If you are thinking about cutting the structural piece above the hole in your later pictures, I wouldn't advise doing it for structural reasons.

Why not play it real safe and put in a stock subwoofer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't seem to understand your question because it appears you already have the answer.
Question is if that cross piece provides structural rigidity or not so that I can cut it, if there is nothing behind it, which I also dont know. I really dont feel like emptying the pyramid/temple to find out...
 

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Cross pieces tend to provide structural rigidity. Wouldn't mess with it for a subwoofer
 

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08 Redline. RPM"s CAI, charge pipes, CAT delete & ECM Tune. diy tunnel brace. ProBeam.
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I want to go in a different direction and cut that middle piece (red arrow) if there is nothing behind in order to have a large area that is easier to work with and offers many more options. I dont know if it provides structural rigidity or not.
I would think the whole wall is structural to an extent, but especially the cross piece you have the arrow pointing two. All that stamped metal doesn't have much ridgidity without some corrugation to it (think cardboard boxes) and the you are thinking about
A) taking away that indent which is the corrugated part of the design and
B) thinking of taking away the middle of the wall that happens to be welded to something for a reason (possibly the frame behind the wall?)

I would think this whole idea is
like emptying the pyramid/temple
On another note, if you take a sub woofer and just give it more air, you don't necessarily get more/better sound. The pics say you are opening up the area to the outside and you will see the ground. You need to find a way to contain the air and the soundwaves by building a box that allows for reverberation. If you don't believe me, take your phone, play some music and set it in an empty drawer with the drawer pulled out all the way. Now, slide that phone to the back of the drawer and close the drawer a little, then a little more. At some point, you will start to hear more low-end frequencies as you give the soundwaves more places to bounce around. Then, slowly start spinning the phone around in the drawer so the speakers point the sound in different directions within the drawer. Now you are a Bose engineer! Hehehe.
In short, it's not just more/bigger speakers or more air that you need; Placement and setup are paramount. I would think if you cut out the indent like they did in the pics, you should build a box that would contain the air. Plus, letting all that road noise in would, IMO, destroy the ability to hear it anyway. Never mind the fact that you could introduce CO into the car and also kick up a lot of dust/water into the speaker and the cabin.

I just don't really see possibly compromising the structural integrity of the car as a worthy investment if you plan to drive this car harder than grandma does on Sunday mornings in her gigantic Lincoln. But hey - to each their own!

I'll be honest, though; I'm not an engineer of any sort, so take my words at face value.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone. I did some more reading and y'all are right, it looks to be structural, so I think I'll follow the lead on that article and build a deeper enclosure after opening the hole up. There is a good trim and upholstery shop in town that does good fiberglass work so I'll have them do the work.

Appreciate the replies

(y)
 

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It's not worth hacking the car apart for a sub. I ran into this last summer when I did my stereo redo... You'll never get eardrum shattering bass from this car and it's small area. If you want that, sell it and get a 4 door. Or remove your passenger seat and put the sub box there. Otherwise it isn't going to happen. Don't cut the back wall.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's not worth hacking the car apart for a sub. I ran into this last summer when I did my stereo redo... You'll never get eardrum shattering bass from this car and it's small area. If you want that, sell it and get a 4 door. Or remove your passenger seat and put the sub box there. Otherwise it isn't going to happen. Don't cut the back wall.
Finished reading some audio analysis and you're right, i'm just gonna put my JL 8" in there with some mild fabrication. I already have a JL12" in my F150 that rattles my insides with a vengeance...
 

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You're better off building the box out and hack up the plastic cover behind the seat than hack the structural pieces in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm planning on dynamating/etc the factory hole and use it like a sealed enclosure, use a 1" MDF frame for the front, seal that and mount the sub to it. It'll save me the 100+ bucks on the plastic assembly.
 

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just my .50 but i've been doing stereos since the 80's. For a stock setup the monsoon is not a bad setup. Take it from someone who's cut apart more vehicles, leave well enough alone. Install the monsoon, get a bluetooth plug and you're in business very respectably.
 

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My redline SE already has a factory sub built in behind the passenger seat so I would assume you would be alright to jam one in there
 
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