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Discussion Starter #1
As the title says has anyone moved from HID / XENON to LED? And if so is the difference noticeable?

I always wanted to have daytime running lights and some LEDs come with 2 modes, regular and daytime (white for regular and red or blue for daytime) so i am thinking on getting one of those if it's worth going from HID to those that is.

Cheers !
 

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I installed some Chinese-made LED lights from eBay in my low beams. The light looks 'crisper' than the halogens for sure, and I think they work pretty well in the projector housings. But, if you already went through the trouble of putting in HID's, it's probably not worth it to switch again. The main reason I went for the LED is that they were plug-and-play replacements for the halogen bulbs, and I knew that if I had a problem with my inspection (I didn't, hurray!) I could quickly switch them back.
 

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I found that my old HIDs produces a bit larger output of light compared to the new LEDs I just put on. My main reason for swapping was because the hid ballast was looking disgusting with random water spots and grime and also because it rattled a bit due to the way I installed it. The LED was much more simple and like mstrjon32 said, is plug and play to original. The 2 color mode aside, I would focus on 2 key points regarding the LEDs. Lumen output and longevity which ironically are related to one another. Brighter they burn = more heat on the diode which can be a downside for 'cheaper brands'. I went with Auxbeam on amazon just because it had some sort of warranty and did not seem like a random chinese startup which mysteriously disappears when warranty comes into question. My only irritation is that I cant put the rear headlight cap on because of the LED fan taking up alot of space. You could go with higher lumen output than HIDs but be prepared to have a much shorter life span.
 

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Agree with SlyCoopers. The HID's looked brighter when looking at the car from the outside, but somehow appear dimmer from inside the car (where it's important). I went back to HID, though all the other bulbs are LED.

Was able to put the slim ballast (Innovited) into the headlight housing, along the high-beam bulb



The HID bulb protruded enough to not be able to put the cap on, so I used some threaded sprinkler riser tube, and also the threaded cap to accommodate and seal the housing.







Had sent this to someone else in a DM, but maybe it could be useful info.

I got these 2 years ago, still works fine
https://www.amazon.com/Innovited-Xenon-Lights-Colors-Ballast/dp/B07NCR2PL4

H11 (H8/H9), 5000k color (white, w/o being too blue or dim like 6000+)

In the pics you can see the ballast is stuffed in the high beam area, and the wires are easy to get to.

You DO have to drill or holesaw a hole in the low beam bulb cover, and then thread the sprinkler threaded union so it will clear the HID bulb. Stock bulbs go in an L shape, HID's are straight and will not fit unless they have a bit of clearance.

Two of these
https://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Fitting-Schedule/dp/B008O1DSDI

and two of these to cap them shut
https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Pipe-Fitting-Schedule-Female/dp/B008HQ60QW

bit of silicon or caulk to keep it sealed and so it doesn't unscrew. Drill the hole a bit smaller than the threads, and you should be able to screw the threaded plastic into the light cover.

mark center of cap where you want to drill, you will have to see where the HID wires touch it, and use it as reference to drill... it's not exactly center as you can see from pics.

my caps are red, and I got the threaded stuff from ACE hardware for cheaper than amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Actually the reason i thought of going to LEDs was the lower wattage requirements compared to HIDs.

I don't know if that would make a difference in terms of battery life but perhaps it would?

Also some LED kits claim up to 10k lumens per bulb so i think that would be far better compared to HIDs.

The only issue is quality, not many established manufacturers in that field.
 

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Also some LED kits claim up to 10k lumens per bulb so i think that would be far better compared to HIDs.
And I have a bridge to sell you! 10 thousand lumens? Hah! Who is doing that measurement, pray tell?

It's possible that LEDs could be brighter than HIDs - just add more LEDs. But in reality - for bulbs you can buy - they probably won't be. Plus you can get 55W HIDs that would be brighter than the regular 35W HIDs anyway. But by far the biggest issue with LEDs is the beam pattern. The Sky projectors are designed to focus an incandescent bulb filament, so aftermarket HIDs and LEDs all try to emulate that source, with greater or lesser success. But HIDs are more similar to filaments (longer fore and aft with a 360 degree illumination) than LEDs which are multiple point sources at far less than 180 degree radiation and so a lot harder to match to filaments. You'll note that OEM LED lights use a completely different focus/beam-forming mechanism to either HIDs/projectors or filaments.

It's true that LEDs will consume a fair bit less power, but unless you're in the habit of leaving your headlights on with the engine off, that consumption is supplied by your engine/alternator and will not affect the battery life.

Your last point about length of time on the market is a good one too. I'm reluctant to trust most of the aftermarket LED suppliers out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
And I have a bridge to sell you! 10 thousand lumens? Hah! Who is doing that measurement, pray tell?

It's possible that LEDs could be brighter than HIDs - just add more LEDs. But in reality - for bulbs you can buy - they probably won't be. Plus you can get 55W HIDs that would be brighter than the regular 35W HIDs anyway. But by far the biggest issue with LEDs is the beam pattern. The Sky projectors are designed to focus an incandescent bulb filament, so aftermarket HIDs and LEDs all try to emulate that source, with greater or lesser success. But HIDs are more similar to filaments (longer fore and aft with a 360 degree illumination) than LEDs which are multiple point sources at far less than 180 degree radiation and so a lot harder to match to filaments. You'll note that OEM LED lights use a completely different focus/beam-forming mechanism to either HIDs/projectors or filaments.

It's true that LEDs will consume a fair bit less power, but unless you're in the habit of leaving your headlights on with the engine off, that consumption is supplied by your engine/alternator and will not affect the battery life.

Your last point about length of time on the market is a good one too. I'm reluctant to trust most of the aftermarket LED suppliers out there.
That's the issue, there seems to be no standard as to how manufacturers need to measure Lumen and no certification and so noone checks them.

The only "positive" thing is cost since you can get good LED lights from China (good as in rating and lumens) for a fraction of the cost needed to get HIDs. For example i spend 120$ for my HIDs back in 2009 (by no means a large amount) and a good LED kit now costs like 30$.
 

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Agree with SlyCoopers. The HID's looked brighter when looking at the car from the outside, but somehow appear dimmer from inside the car (where it's important). I went back to HID, though all the other bulbs are LED.

Was able to put the slim ballast (Innovited) into the headlight housing, along the high-beam bulb



The HID bulb protruded enough to not be able to put the cap on, so I used some threaded sprinkler riser tube, and also the threaded cap to accommodate and seal the housing.







Had sent this to someone else in a DM, but maybe it could be useful info.

I got these 2 years ago, still works fine
https://www.amazon.com/Innovited-Xenon-Lights-Colors-Ballast/dp/B07NCR2PL4

H11 (H8/H9), 5000k color (white, w/o being too blue or dim like 6000+)

In the pics you can see the ballast is stuffed in the high beam area, and the wires are easy to get to.

You DO have to drill or holesaw a hole in the low beam bulb cover, and then thread the sprinkler threaded union so it will clear the HID bulb. Stock bulbs go in an L shape, HID's are straight and will not fit unless they have a bit of clearance.

Two of these
https://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Fitting-Schedule/dp/B008O1DSDI

and two of these to cap them shut
https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Pipe-Fitting-Schedule-Female/dp/B008HQ60QW

bit of silicon or caulk to keep it sealed and so it doesn't unscrew. Drill the hole a bit smaller than the threads, and you should be able to screw the threaded plastic into the light cover.

mark center of cap where you want to drill, you will have to see where the HID wires touch it, and use it as reference to drill... it's not exactly center as you can see from pics.

my caps are red, and I got the threaded stuff from ACE hardware for cheaper than amazon.
I am very interested in this installation you've done. I am curious if you bought the regular version or the Canbus version? If regular, any flickering? Did you remove the daytime running light fuse?
 

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I used the OPT 7 35W HID 5000K kit. I decided to mount the ballast on the side of the headlamp housing to allow for better heat dissipation. I had to drill a hole in the low beam caps (I left the high beams stock). The kit comes with rubber grommets that the wires thread through. I did remove the DRL fuse. I have had this set up for a couple years now with no flickering and they work great!!

_
 

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I used the OPT 7 35W HID 5000K kit. I decided to mount the ballast on the side of the headlamp housing to allow for better heat dissipation. I had to drill a hole in the low beam caps (I left the high beams stock). The kit comes with rubber grommets that the wires thread through. I did remove the DRL fuse. I have had this set up for a couple years now with no flickering and they work great!!

_
I'm not seeing your images. If they're on your computer you can drag them and attach them to this thread and the website will host them. I would love to be able to see your installation! Plus Opt7 has several different series: Bullet, Blitz, Bolt. Do you remember which one?
 

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I'm not seeing your images. If they're on your computer you can drag them and attach them to this thread and the website will host them. I would love to be able to see your installation! Plus Opt7 has several different series: Bullet, Blitz, Bolt. Do you remember which one?

I tried to drag my pics over and it didn't work so I attached them as thumbnails. I was using google photos to host them and I am not sure how to make them public. I am not sure what series they are. I just purchased the ones with the slimmest ballast.
 

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All went well. Installation was a breeze and the dust caps fit perfectly (well almost). There is a ridge that interferes with a tiny portion of the dust cap. In a previous thread I read that person hack-sawed and filed the ridge down so the cap fit all of the way around. I might tdo that or I might just make a small slit in the rubber boot...or since I shut the hood already just leave it be..haha. The rubber dust cap snaps around 97% of the opening and will be just fine. The dust cap is very pliable and fits very snug everywhere else.

Once again:

The light kit I used (thanks a280z) .

The 100mm dust covers.
 

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All went well. Installation was a breeze and the dust caps fit perfectly (well almost). There is a ridge that interferes with a tiny portion of the dust cap. In a previous thread I read that person hack-sawed and filed the ridge down so the cap fit all of the way around. I might tdo that or I might just make a small slit in the rubber boot...or since I shut the hood already just leave it be..haha. The rubber dust cap snaps around 97% of the opening and will be just fine. The dust cap is very pliable and fits very snug everywhere else.

Once again:

The light kit I used (thanks a280z) .

The 100mm dust covers.
Glad to hear it worked stungjoe! Nice find on the dust caps. I ordered the regular version HID (not CANBUS), and have not removed the DRL fuse. No issues for 2 years now I think.

Very rarely, one HID will be off, and that's probably due to them turning on and then off while cranking the engine. Found that if you run with Auto lights on, turn the key and let the electrical system have a second to stabilize, then crank, it stays on. Maybe 1 out of ever 10 starts this seemed to happen without the slight wait before cranking. I have a tiny agm battery too which could have something to do with this bug.
 

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Glad to hear it worked stungjoe! Nice find on the dust caps. I ordered the regular version HID (not CANBUS), and have not removed the DRL fuse. No issues for 2 years now I think.
I think I might put the DRL fuse back in then. The ballast does say it works from 9 volts up to 15 or so.

I bought a second set of those HIDs for the fogs and some LED's for the brights. I got things tucked back in with the LED bulbs in the high beam side but the hard plastic cover is a very tight fit. I'm ordering another set of the large rubber covers for the high beam side and I will feel more comfortable with it.

I haven't attacked the fog lights yet because I also bought some switchbacks for the turn signal and I need to place the resistors.

EDIT: I just went back to Amazon and they no longer show those 100mm covers???? So check fleabay.
 

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I see the 100mm covers here...
Yeh, something weird is going on. I had found another seller of the same thing on Amazon and bought from them. Now they show to be out and the original vendor is showing in stock. Anyways, just to let anybody interested know the 100mm size is what you need to buy.


Also back to DRL fuse. I put the fuse back in and the HIDs in the low beam worked just fine this weekend. I took a trip down to Austin from Dallas and the lights worked perfectly the whole time. Plus I am now that a-hole you do not want to bright light! Good grief those LED's are bright in the high beams!>:)
 
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