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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Aaaaaaand the turbo is ready to go. Put the RPM BOV refresh kit in it too!


115505
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I'm seeing our BOV is 37mm. People have told me before it is welded on... But it just looks bolted on... Can we upgrade them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·

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Why aren't you a fan?
It is a very long story dating back to my W-body days when Zoomer was just starting out. Has to do with his business practices and customer service. PAW and RPM both source stuff from them (my engine and turbo are both ZZP parts I bought through RPM) and have good luck dealing with them. Thus I get my ZZP parts through them as their customer service is FAR better.

I'm seeing our BOV is 37mm. People have told me before it is welded on... But it just looks bolted on... Can we upgrade them?
My friend just helped me understand!!! We have a Diverter Valve, not a Blow Off Valve.

I usually refer to them as bypass valves or recirculation valves but diverter valve is also used (VW and Audi love to call them diverter valves...). There is only one difference between a Diverter/Bypass valve and a Blow Off Valve...and that is where does the air go. Both take pressurized air in the charge pipes and prevent it from backing up into the turbo's compressor wheel which can stall and damage the turbo when the throttle body closes and vents it somewhere. A blow off valve dumps this to the atmosphere. Well...the EPA doesn't like cars doing this so they have the bypass valve which takes the air and bypasses...recirculates...diverts...whatever you want to call it...it back into the intake before the turbo.

The K04 system does this in the turbo housing itself by dumping it right back into the turbo's inlet. Other cars do it differently. My fiance's car has a hose going from her valve back to the air intake. Remove this hose and her bypass valve now becomes a blow off valve. However her engine uses a MAP based fueling system and this is important.

Our system is a MAF based system. The LNF's MAF is located in the intake before the turbo. The MAF records how much air is flowing into the turbo and tells the computer this info so the computer can determine how much fuel to add to that much air to get proper AFR. Once measured, this air must enter the engine or fueling will be off. Thus if you vent air to atmosphere with a BOV, the computer will not properly calculate fueling. (Note with most LE5 turbo setups our MAF is in the cold side pipe so if we put in a blow off valve before the MAF, the computer doesn't know the air was ever in the system.)

That said, there are valves that can replace our stock bypass valves and there are a number of reasons to do it. First is higher boost pressures. If you run higher boost, the stock valve can let some boost creep out. Rare if you are at 25 psi or less but can happen. Second, the stock rubber bladder can tear which will cause boost loss as well.

The link shabby posted MIGHT work but they describe it as a bypass valve and a blow off valve. It can't be both...at least not both 100% at the same time (more on this in a moment). So between it and the price it is iffy if I would use this. It looks like a Forge VTA valve but is about $100 less and thus may be a knock off. The VTA (Vent To Atmosphere) is a blow off valve and your ECM must be tuned to use these. Forge also makes a recirculation valve that would just bolt on and work without a retune.

PAW has a few options including the real Forge valves and the Turbosmart valve I use.

Intercooler/Blow Off Valve, Performance Autowerks


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Mine is a 50/50 valve. (This is the exception I mentioned earlier.) It is both a recirculation valve and a blow off valve. 50% of the air charge is recycled and 50% is vented to atmosphere. That is the dual port bpv...the plumb back bpv is the one that is a total recirculation valve.

Whether or not you need it is up to you. I liked it because i could do a 50/50 setup and it is easier to install and more durable than the stock unit.
 

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I'm venting my hks with no issues, granted my maf doesn't work yet the car drives like stock 😂
 

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I'm venting my hks with no issues, granted my maf doesn't work yet the car drives like stock 😂
If it is ignoring the MAF because the MAF is not working it may be running off the MAP sensor in which case it won't care what the Bypass or BOV is doing with the air. Once your MAF is working, you may get rich AFR spikes and throw a P0101 engine error code if the tune isn't adjusted for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Last update for the weekend. Took out the fuel rail and injectors. Those injectors were glued in there.

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The injector tips were mighty black. The white/ yellow ring (I think it might be ceramic?) Is starting to crumble on some of them... Does this mean I need to replace them?

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I cleaned them off, but don't know how long that will last.

115511
 

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If it is ignoring the MAF because the MAF is not working it may be running off the MAP sensor in which case it won't care what the Bypass or BOV is doing with the air. Once your MAF is working, you may get rich AFR spikes and throw a P0101 engine error code if the tune isn't adjusted for it.
That's what it looks like, but i doubt the ecm will care even if i get the maf working, it solely doesn't use the maf it seems.
 

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At 75k miles... those injectors are pretty dirty, but then again what
did you expect to find with them at 75k worth of usage? You have shown
us the carbon build up on the valves- seeing it on the injectors is not a
surprise. IS the fuel dispersal pattern even and consistent with each injector?
I once saw Ed China on WD show- test an old one against a new one.
Huge difference. Injectors can be expensive up to you whether to replace them
at this time- you do have the motor apart now just say'n.

The other thing that caught my eye/ear was when Martin looked at your turbo- use it as is,
the cracks in the housing casing are normal? IDK about that... imo.
The play in the spindle might be within tolerance levels from the factory- but what play is in there now at 75k how much of a variance compared with the stock factory level?
Without bench testing it- or if the vanes are unbalanced, seals- O-rings might be dry rotted too, sort like the head gasket?

Lot heat generated in a turbo, and spinning like mad- 10k revolutions or more until
something gets sucked through the turbo & your new rebuild too- that would suck Big time.
Why just stop at a water pump replacement @ 75k- your deep into it now.
Replace- repair-recondition everything now while the motor is a part. That first
1k motor break in period will be telling- of your time, effort, headaches and money
too involved with this now- major improvement under your hood.

Powder coating items- Gun metal grey looks sweet. Little bling never hurts under the hood.
Saw a bad ass 66 Chevelle at the gas station on Sat. morning- off to the drag strip- everyone
around here was- except me that is.... off to the road race course & friends.

LAC
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
At 75k miles... those injectors are pretty dirty, but then again what
did you expect to find with them at 75k worth of usage? You have shown
us the carbon build up on the valves- seeing it on the injectors is not a
surprise. IS the fuel dispersal pattern even and consistent with each injector?
I once saw Ed China on WD show- test an old one against a new one.
Huge difference. Injectors can be expensive up to you whether to replace them
at this time- you do have the motor apart now just say'n.

The other thing that caught my eye/ear was when Martin looked at your turbo- use it as is,
the cracks in the housing casing are normal? IDK about that... imo.
The play in the spindle might be within tolerance levels from the factory- but what play is in there now at 75k how much of a variance compared with the stock factory level?
Without bench testing it- or if the vanes are unbalanced, seals- O-rings might be dry rotted too, sort like the head gasket?

Lot heat generated in a turbo, and spinning like mad- 10k revolutions or more until
something gets sucked through the turbo & your new rebuild too- that would suck Big time.
Why just stop at a water pump replacement @ 75k- your deep into it now.
Replace- repair-recondition everything now while the motor is a part. That first
1k motor break in period will be telling- of your time, effort, headaches and money
too involved with this now- major improvement under your hood.

Powder coating items- Gun metal grey looks sweet. Little bling never hurts under the hood.
Saw a bad ass 66 Chevelle at the gas station on Sat. morning- off to the drag strip- everyone
around here was- except me that is.... off to the road race course & friends.

LAC
I replaced the water pump 2k miles ago. No sense in doing that. I'm going to try to find a place that will clean the injectors. I plan in a few months or within the next year buying the improved turbo. It should be able to last that long no problem.
 

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Do both the 2.0 Turbo and the 2.4 N/A have the fuel injected directly into the combustion chamber? I think the technology is referred to as "direct injection".
 

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Do both the 2.0 Turbo and the 2.4 N/A have combustion chamber injection, I think is called "direct injection?
No. Only the 2.0 is direct injection.
 

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The 2.0 Turbo LNF in our cars was the first GM production vehicle to use direct injection. The 2.4 LE5 in the base model is a port injection engine but the later 2.4 LEA (not used in the Kappa line) is a direct injection engine. I have wondered if a 2.4 LEA could be swapped into a LNF Sky and use the same ECM or if it could be put into a base and use a Red Line ECM...
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Called around today to find out about getting my injectors professionally cleaned. Going rate is $35/ per injector. Best I found was $25/ per... Woof. That's 1/3 of brand new Opel Injectors from RPM...

Anyway... I'm taking off belt and tensioners today with final prep work for getting the timing chains and head off... FINALLY...

Here's the semifinal parts bin:
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Random thoughts: An 8oz jar of anti-seize is a no-brainer. A simple wheel/bearing replacement on the smaller belt tensioner is A-ok and way cheaper. Crankshaft pulley tool is rentable at Autozone and required. GM recommends having a replacement harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley bolt ($12). This is very very very much a while I'm in there job. So dangerous lol... like I seriously considered buying the new Opel injectors... I may have a problem/ addiction/ money pit/ hobby. A big fat jug of Zep Industrial Purple Degreaser and spray bottle is a no-brainer. Don't buy single bottles of it. You'll go through 2-3 anyway, and spend just as much. With the concentrate, you'll have a bunch left over for the next hair brained scheme.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Pulled cam sensors and fuel pump. Cleaned the block too. What surprises me is just how dirty the block is/ was and how many little things there are to do.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Got knocked off my ass this week being sick.
Thankfully... It's not Covid... Just a run of the mill makes you miserable cold.

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
"I'm just about ready to pull the head off.." something I've told myself at least 14 times at this point.

I've never removed a crankshaft balancer before, so I had no idea I needed an impact gun to take the retainer bolt off. Any attempts to do so with a socket wrench results in the engine spinning. My friend has offered to bring his impact gun over tomorrow. I'm super appreciative of the dude... Wish I could be spending the evening making progress on this.

Instead... I'm spending the evening whiskey in hand watching a concert and looking at the shop manual.

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