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"I'm just about ready to pull the head off.." something I've told myself at least 14 times at this point.

I've never removed a crankshaft balancer before, so I had no idea I needed an impact gun to take the retainer bolt off.
The cams do have spots to hold them in place with a 24mm (22mm???? Its big) open end wrench. hold the cam still with that and break the other bolt loose with a breaker bar...
 

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So I had to go check. It is a 24mm. Good news is the big wrench will give you plenty of leverage.
115553


Herevis a better shot of the area for the wrench. it sits right up by the front of the cam.

115554
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
The cams do have spots to hold them in place with a 24mm (22mm???? Its big) open end wrench. hold the cam still with that and break the other bolt loose with a breaker bar...
The shop manual mentions 24mm for holding the cam in place to remove the cam gear... I can do this for the crankshaft too???
 

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I had to grind a wrench down for clearance to rotate the stage 2 cams enough to attach the cam position adjusters with the chain indexed.
 

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I don't know why I was thinking camshaft actuators. This could work for the crankshaft but an impact does make it easier. I did it withn the 24mm wrench method with an LNF sitting on an engine stand. An impact would have got it off easier though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
So I had to go check. It is a 24mm. Good news is the big wrench will give you plenty of leverage. View attachment 115553

Herevis a better shot of the area for the wrench. it sits right up by the front of the cam.

View attachment 115554
Annnnnd I don't have a 24mm wrench. Autozone and O'reilly's near me don't carry them either. I'll have to wait til tomorrow to get the wrench.
 

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Annnnnd I don't have a 24mm wrench. Autozone and O'reilly's near me don't carry them either. I'll have to wait til tomorrow to get the wrench.
It is the largest practical one I have. i have another set that is like 32mm to 50mm that I got for axle nuts or something. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
The head is officially off!!!
An impact gun is the answer. My Lord was an impact gun the answer. The crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt came right off! Didn't even need the puller kit for the harmonic balancer! That came easily off after the bolt. The 24mm wrench on a camshaft helped too.

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The timing chain came out almost EXACTLY the same way as the Cloyes instructional video says. Making sure the engine was at top dead center was stupid easy too. Like almost makes you second guess yourself easy.

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I did a very quick wipe with a cloth, so it did look a little dirtier when the head first came off. The gasket material is almost non existent. Make sure to take the head bolts off in the opposite pattern of putting them on. Only crack them open a tiny bit with each pass. I think I did 3 or 4 total passes before the bolts were all out. You must do this to ensure no head warping. They make a very scary sound (to a novice) when coming out.

115564


Here's the two gaskets (old left, new right) with the head. My more mechanically inclined friend is strongly urging me to have the head machined to be safe. Thing is that probably costs a bare minimum of $100... A brand new head with new valves is only $300... I'm going to be calling around shops to see the cost... I might end up just buying a new head...

115565


Evidence of me using octane booster...

115566


With the weight savings, next up was motor mounts.. overall this was easy. Basically have a jack with a 2x4 running front to back under the oil pan to support the motor. You must take out the engine brackets to do this. Passenger side is 4 bolts, driver side is 3 bolts. Size 15mm. Do one side at a time.

115567


115568


The passenger side mount looked brand new. The driver side... Did not... Here is the new vs the old one... It says genuine GM though... Honestly both mounts feel the same as their replacements. This probably was not a necessary "while I'm in there."

That's it for this weekend!
 

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If I recall correctly, were you having a head gasket leak. If so, were you able to identify the cause for the leak? Is there evidence of a blown-out or cracked head gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
The gasket material (the non metal portion) had deteriorated. Oil had leaked out of the rear and front of the engine. I've been cleaning as I've been going.
 

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...

View attachment 115564

Here's the two gaskets (old left, new right) with the head. My more mechanically inclined friend is strongly urging me to have the head machined to be safe. Thing is that probably costs a bare minimum of $100... A brand new head with new valves is only $300... I'm going to be calling around shops to see the cost... I might end up just buying a new head...
...
I like this IKEA work bench. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I like this IKEA work bench. (y)
The table top is from Lowes. Originally made my wife a desk, she didn't want it, so I mangled it into a work bench.

Heard back from an engine shop. He said he will resurface my head for $75. Looks like that's what I'm doing. Was almost hoping it would be pricier so I could justify buying a new head... I may have a problem.
 

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Heard back from an engine shop. He said he will resurface my head for $75. Looks like that's what I'm doing. Was almost hoping it would be pricier so I could justify buying a new head... I may have a problem.
I would ask what the cost would be to have the head cleaned and inspected for cracks. It might be half that of a new head.

Everything in your head is "broken in" together. I would think there is some benefit to that. Transferring required "Broken-in" things that would then work with brand new things might introduce gremlins. Admittedly I could be concerned over nothing.

If the new head comes completely loaded with nothing to transfer over, that would be another story. $300 for everything, cams and all, seems like cheap insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I would ask what the cost would be to have the head cleaned and inspected for cracks. It might be half that of a new head.

Everything in your head is "broken in" together. I would think there is some benefit to that. Transferring required "Broken-in" things that would then work with brand new things might introduce gremlins. Admittedly I could be concerned over nothing.

If the new head comes completely loaded with nothing to transfer over, that would be another story. $300 for everything, cams and all, seems like cheap insurance.
The ZZP new head needs cams, lash adjusters, and rocker arms transferred over. It does come with new valves, valve springs, and retainers.

 

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The ZZP new head needs cams, lash adjusters, and rocker arms transferred over.
Hmmm, maybe someone with intricate knowledge on this will provide input.

I will ask my friend Leo Franchi, that engine and fuel management systems racing circuit guy I mentioned some time ago who evaluated my Base Sky last year. I will report back with his thoughts on this.
 

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Hmmm, maybe someone with intricate knowledge on this will provide input.

I will ask my friend Leo Franchi, that engine and fuel management systems racing circuit guy I mentioned some time ago who evaluated my Base Sky last year. I will report back with his thoughts on this.
What sort of input are you looking for?
 

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Got knocked off my ass this week being sick.
Thankfully... It's not Covid... Just a run of the mill makes you miserable cold.
That's still kinda scary. If you can catch a cold, you can catch Covid. Stay SAFE!
 
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