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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I'm new on here and not a mechanic by any sorts but can follow directions. I did a quick search on here and the web for MAP sensor install but nothing jumped out at me. I'm doing an HP Tuners stage 2 tune and I've got engine knock they can't get rid of. I've changed my plugs already and now RPM suggested to replace both my MAP sensors because of a code they found. I don't know where they are or if it's even something a regular guy can do? Can anyone steer me in the right direction?
Thanks,
Scott
 

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They are very easy to get to but one is hard to find.

The first is in your cold side pipe going to the throttle body from the intercooler. It's right on top of the pipe. In the picture below you can see this pipe (on the left that goes up and over the radiator then back down heading towards the throttle body) and the sensor is the only sensor in the pipe with the wires running to it. The other is on top of the intake manifold. I've never looked for it on an LNF (I have an LE5) but I'm sure it's in this picture somewhere.

 

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Just to be sure, do you mean MAP or MAF?

The factory MAP sensors have two bolts (only one for the GMPP MAPs). Simply disconnect the wires, remove the bolt(s) and wiggle the MAP up out of it's hole. Note: it's recommended to replace the O-ring on the new guy, since they are easy to damage when pulling the old one out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just to be sure, do you mean MAP or MAF?

The factory MAP sensors have two bolts (only one for the GMPP MAPs). Simply disconnect the wires, remove the bolt(s) and wiggle the MAP up out of it's hole. Note: it's recommended to replace the O-ring on the new guy, since they are easy to damage when pulling the old one out.


RPM told me I’d need two MAP sensors. Not sure where they are on the car


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RPM told me I’d need two MAP sensors. Not sure where they are on the car


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, my post and picture shows you the most obvious on your cold side charge pipe.

@TomatoSoup or someone else that has worked on the LNF, where on that intake manifold is the other MAP? I'm pretty sure I know which one it is (and would know for sure if I was looking at the engine in person) but don't want to throw out a guess.

Found a better picture of it...


The MAP is the sensor you see in the middle right section of the image that is held down with two bolts, one on "top" and one on "bottom" in relation to it's orientation in the picture.

If you turn this picture 90 degrees to the right (clockwise) it will be oriented in the same direction as the picture I posted above. In that picture, in the same location, you can see the MAP sensor and the two bolts on either side of it towards the right hand side of the above picture.
 

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Well, my post and picture shows you the most obvious on your cold side charge pipe.

@TomatoSoup or someone else that has worked on the LNF, where on that intake manifold is the other MAP? I'm pretty sure I know which one it is (and would know for sure if I was looking at the engine in person) but don't want to throw out a guess.

Found a better picture of it...
Better still...

You can easily see the two sensors (GMPP in this case) with the blue and white labels on the tops:

 

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Better still...

You can easily see the two sensors (GMPP in this case) with the blue and white labels on the tops:

THAT'S the kind of image I was looking for! Thanks TS. That's also great for those buying used wondering if the GMPP tune may be installed in the car.

Thanks to both of you!! Happy Turkey Day!
Glad to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am curious as to the code that was thrown.


Well, I’m not sure. After a few tweaks of the tune, I still had a little engine knock. On one of my runs I redlined in 3rd gear and the check engine light blinked about 6 times then went away. This happened twice. I told RPM about it and the had me hook the computer up to the car while he remoted in and was able to check for codes thrown. One was a cylinder 3 misfire and one said something about the MAP. I was just watching on the computer screen so I don’t remember exactly the wording it what the codes were. The tuner suggested replacing the MAP sensors.


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If you are getting your car tuned, it would be in your best interest to get something that will allow you to pull codes and log the car.

Since you have an iPhone, Dashboss is a pretty nice solution from the guys who made the original Dashhawk which is widely accepted as a great device.

There are other options, but I preferred Dashboss because they have kept updating the firmware on the hardware as well as the application and it is recently updated for IOS 11.
it is also one of the combinations that can log knock

Kiwi 3 and Dashcommand are also nice options.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you are getting your car tuned, it would be in your best interest to get something that will allow you to pull codes and log the car.

Since you have an iPhone, Dashboss is a pretty nice solution from the guys who made the original Dashhawk which is widely accepted as a great device.

There are other options, but I preferred Dashboss because they have kept updating the firmware on the hardware as well as the application and it is recently updated for IOS 11.
it is also one of the combinations that can log knock

Kiwi 3 and Dashcommand are also nice options.


I’m totally going to show how little I know but how would I know when to look for codes? Besides when the check engine light flashed and went out right away there was not a CEL on. Would the Dashboss pull codes with no CEL?


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I’m totally going to show how little I know but how would I know when to look for codes? Besides when the check engine light flashed and went out right away there was not a CEL on. Would the Dashboss pull codes with no CEL?


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You would check it you have an existing check engine light
Saw one flash
Or randomly do it just to see if you have any codes or history
 

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I replaced the MAP sensor . Engine light went off for a bit . I disconnected my battery before I did the job. Last week. Yesterday my engine light came back on. Had it scanned and came up with same code MAP sensor. Does it take awhile for computer to reset ?
 

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I replaced the MAP sensor . Engine light went off for a bit . I disconnected my battery before I did the job. Last week. Yesterday my engine light came back on. Had it scanned and came up with same code MAP sensor. Does it take awhile for computer to reset ?
The way some of the codes work is the failure has to occur 3 times for it to set the light...I think it's three.

Anyway, when you unplug the battery you will clear all your codes if you have any. If the problem still exists, the code will eventually reset. sounds like replacing the MAP sensor didn't fix what's throwing the code.

Two things.

First, what is the exact code you're throwing?

Second, do you have a Redline with the turbo or the 2.4 base model? The Redlines have 2 MAP sensors and if you only replaced one then the problem may be with the second.

IF you have a Redline, check your MAP sensors. if the top of them are blue, you have the GMPP 3 bar MAP sensors. If you didn't replace the "damaged" one with the proper type of sensor (for instance putting in the stock 2.75 bar sensor when you had a 3 bar in it) this can cause a code since the ECM gets reprogrammed for the 3 bar sensors. Even if you do replace the sensor with a 3 bar sensor, it is common for the MAP plug that gets wired into the stock harness when the GMPP kit is installed to get bad connections where the new plug is spliced into the main wiring harness. This can cause MAP codes to be thrown as well.
 
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