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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
SKY MODS INFO

:thumbs: Just thought Id start something in one spot so we can see whats happening out there for our Skys or get more explainations of what mods there are and or what they means to the lay person. Please add to it lets make it a living thread:grouphug:

GM Suspension Package

Upgraded suspension package...springs, shocks, bushings, front and rear sway bars...

gmpartsdirect as the package for approx. $1248

part number 17800834

they are also carrying the sway bar set...and the shocks/springs as separate packages


Wheels
18"x8" with a 55mm offset 5x110 wheels using 245/45/18 tires

http://www.forgeline.com/wheels/zx3r.html

http://www.hrewheels.com/home/

Falken Azenis RT-615's Brentil's recomendation :) race from the sol forum
255/40/ 18 in the falkens they are closer in size
F1 Eagle's street
240/45 R18 tires have a rolling diameter of 25.72 inches and a contact patch of 9.65 inches.

Here's the math for the rolling diameter: ((2*240*(40*0.01))+(18*25.4))/25.4
And the contact patch: 240/25.4

Now when using 255/40 R18, they have a rolling diameter of 26.03 inches and a contact patch of 10.04 inches. Also, Solstice stock tires are 245/45 R18s with a rolling diameter of 26.68 inches and a contact patch of 9.65 inches.

Supposedly you can squeeze 275/45 R18s into the wheel well but I've yet to see anyone try it outside of Mallett and his V8 conversion. 275/45 R18 tires have a rolling diameter of 27.74 inches and a contact patch of 10.83 inches.

Anybody looking at fat tires may also consider lighter rims.

Goodyear Eagle RS-A:

235/55 R18 = 29 lbs
245/45 R18 = 28 lbs

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3:

245/40 R18 = 26 lbs
245/45 R18 = 29 lbs
255/45 R18 = 31 lbs
275/40 R18 = 28 lbs

Bridgestone Potenza RE050:

245/45 R18 = 27 lbs
275/40 R18 = 28 lbs


RK SPORTS
Incoming gear for the Sky
http://www.rksport.com/ they have a large amount of Sol stuff already

Sound Systems and excessories
Eclipse head units are great for quality, you can't beat Alpine either. And neither company will break your wallet with their entry level units. But when choosing a head unit... make sure it has all of the options you want. Especially if you want a more elaborate system in the future.You cannot install an aftermarket headunit without losing functions in the car until they come out with the appropriate adapters and converter module. The G6 and several other GM cars are the same way. The adapters will make the install rather easy so the wait is worth it.


You should figure out what you want from a system. Do you just want something basic or do you want to go all out? That will determine what equipment would best suit you needs

Stereos
http://www.crutchfield.com
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Kc3jX0...=300&id=morephotos&pi=5&i=257KDG820&display=L

System example
JBL P650C 6 1/2 Two Way Components For Front
JBL P452 Rear 4 Inch Two Way Speakers for Rear
Kicker COMP-VR 8 Inch 2x20HM Subwoofer
JBL CS50.4 Amp
Custom Enclosure for Sub
Rear Mounted Amp with Custom Enclosure
Dynamat Entire Rear Panel Area
Dynamat Underneath Both Doors
Custom Grill Through Factory Panel

Leave in the stock system it becomes Recieved/CD pre-amp
Total Cost $1236.15


Antenna stubbys
The antenna mast on the Sky is Female, while the part attached to the body is the male.
http://www.carccessory.com/product.asp?key=Stubby_Short_Antenna_
http://www.truckxpressions.com/product.cgi?product=5002

Stereo adaptors G-6 possibles and Cobalt
http://www.scosche.com/press_room.aspx?id=91&year=2006
http://www.mobilcaraudio.com/catalog/item/909779/1477128.htm
http://www.electrofarm.com/browseproducts/SCOSCHE-GM1587B.html
http://www.americaninternational.net/
http://www.metraonline.com/
http://www.scosche.com/
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-rFKhxh0jhGg/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=751&I=120GMRC01



Wind Deflectors
http://www.kappasphere.com/
http://www.allantewindscreen.com/Saturn_Sky.html

EMC TUNES
http://carputing.tripod.com/LS2main.htm


Aluminum Fly Wheels
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=958

Custom Rear View Mirrors
http://www.jpcustoms.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=259

EXHAUST
http://www.kappasphere.com/handler.cfm?cat_id=20105&prod_id=1145&function=product
http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=158
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=Sport&id=1004
All Stainless Steel, Mandrel-Bent, Cat-Back Exhaust System with a Polished Stainless Steel Tip.

HID
bulb type, H11
http://www.xtralights.com/

1. HID's do not run any hotter than standard bulbs, they in fact run cooler and pull much less power to run

2. You can buy HID's with high/low beams, they are more expensive, but there are setups for that. Usually about $200 more for that combo.

3. The higher the number, like 8000k, the bluer or more purple the bulb, but the less light it produces, 4800k as the most optimal light, with 6000k giving the best light/color appearance balance.

Hids run at 30watts once you start them up, but to start them up they need over 100watts (that’s what the ballasts are for)

4. You need to have projector headlights in order to have a h3/4 setup (high and low beams)

5.HID / Xenon Technology:
XENON HID lamps do not have a filament. Instead the light is created by an electrical discharge between two electrodes in an air tight tiny quartz capsule filled with xenon gas, mercury and metal halide salts. This improves durability as road vibrations can cause damage to coil lighting technologies. These light sources also produce a blue-white light that is safer because it is closer to natural daylight. The color temperature is approximately 4200 K compared to 3200 K for halogen. The increased light output from a 35 watt XENON HID lamp is approximately 80% more light then a 55 watt halogen bulb. The XENON HID system will also draw less power from your vehicles electrical system.

Temperature:
Color Temperature is a measurement in Degrees Kelvin that indicates the hue of a specific type of light source. Many people believe the misconception that colour temperature is a rating of the brightness of the bulb or HID kit. This belief is completely false. The reality of the matter is that the higher the colour temperature, the less useable light output you will obtain. A perfect example would be a black light. This light has a colour temperature of approx 12,000k and has almost no useable light or lumens output. Higher K kits such as 7000k, 7500k, etc. have been manufactured for individuals that are more concerned about the actual colour output of their lights as opposed to the actual useable light output they produce.

Chromaticity and Colour Temperature
Chromaticity (xy)
Degrees K = COLOUR ONLY Lumen= BRIGHTNESS
XYZ trisimulus values and the associated Yxy colour space form the foundation of the present system for numerical colour notation. The concept for the XYZ tristimulus values is based on the premise that all colours are seen as mixtures of these three primary colours. By defining the colour matching functions of a standard observer, the Commission Internationale de L'Eclairage (CIE), an international organization concerned with light and colour, provided the basis for colorimetry in 1931. The Tristimulus values XYZ are useful for specifying a colour, but the results are not easily visualized. The two-dimensional colour (x,y) diagram is taken from the Yxy colour space, in which Y is the lightness (and is identical to the tristimulus value Y) and x and y are the chromaticity coordinates calculated from the tristimulus values XYZ. The CIE x,y chromaticity diagram for this colour space is shown. In this diagram, achromatic colours are toward the center of the diagram, and the chroma or saturation increases toward the edges.
Colour Temperature (Tcp)
A black body (perfect radiant body) is an ideal object that absorbs all energy, changes its colour from red through yellow to white as its temperature increases. The absolute temperature T (K) of the black body is referred to as the colour temperature and colour by a locus (black body locus).
The above diagram is sometimes used to indicate the colour of a light source. Correlated colour temperature is used to apply the general idea of colour temperature to those colours that are close to, but not exactly on the blackbody locus. For instance, a light source which has a colour difference of 0.01 in the green direction (Duv) from a black body which has a colour temperature of 7,000K is indicated as having a correlated colour temperature of 7,000K + 0.01 (uv unit).

But to each his own, HID of any will be far better than stock anything.

CAI (cold air intake)
http://www.kappasphere.com/products/performance/
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=158


V8 Conversions

http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=185_163
http://www.mallettcars.com/solstice-conversion.htm

Detailing /Washing Exterior Body
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6637
Excellent post one detailing cars
Meguiar’s Products rule

http://www.autogeek.net/
Excellent site on car care how to and products

Proper Washing & Drying Exterior
http://autogeek.net/exterior.html

Proper Washing & Drying Glass
http://www.autogeek.net/waterspots.html

Proper Washing & Drying Convertible Tops
http://www.autogeek.net/covtopplas.html

Claying
Claying is a process that is new to the world of automotive detailing and has found enthusiastic acceptance. It's not hard to understand why, as its resume reads like a miracle cure, and after reading it you may think that it's too good to be true. But claying delivers.
The clay we are talking about is similar to the toy "Play-doh" that kids enjoy although a special type is required for car detailing. It performs its function by removing the contaminants from the surface of the paint. It works by virtue of its flexibility as it easily forms the exact contour of the surface it is in contact with. What it does for a painted surface is similar to the function of polish, but unlike polish, clay is not an abrasive. This is an advantage for the beginning or casual detailer, as no harm can be done to the paint. Claying also does not remove wax, so unlike polish, there is no need to reapply it after an application. It works on surfaces that might not be appropriate for polish, such as glass, bright work and trim items. Claying is also relatively quick and easy when compared to a polish job. Clearly a winning situation all around!

How to Clay
To work with clay you will need a lubricant. Fortunately what you use is not critical and many products will work fine. Many clay kits ship with a "Quick Detailer" spray which works. Our recipe consists of a tablespoon of car wash detergent in about 20 oz. of distilled water and dispensed using a spray bottle. Others have reported that Windex and other glass cleaners work well.

Claying supplies can be purchased from

Mothers California
Gold Clay Bar Paint
Saving System
(more info)
Meguiar's Quik Clay
Detailing System
(more info)

Some Experimenting

The "baggie test" is the way to go and is recommended as an easy way to demonstrate the power of claying. Put your hand in a ordinary sandwich baggie (the thin kind, not the thick rugged ones) and spray a test area of the paint with the above described clay lubricant. Then go over the paint surface as shown with just enough pressure to get a feel for the surface. You'll detect all sorts of bumps and defects, many more than are apparent with even a close visual inspection.


Claying is done after the car is washed, but before it is waxed, assuming that you are planning on a wax job. To use the clay, apply some of the clay lubricant to the area you are going to work on, which shouldn't be larger than about 2' x 2'. Then glide (in other words, use only minimal pressure) the clay over the surface. If the lubricant is working, the effort to move the clay over the surface will be next to nothing; you are really guiding its movement more than anything else. A lot depends on how much the clay has to pick up.



As you progress, you'll note that the clay bar gets thinner. You'll then have to rework the bar so that it is thick again by kneading it. Some detailers like to just fold it over; the reasoning is that it will have a cleaner surface. You'll get a feel for how it is working by the way it glides over the paint surface. This "feel" will also tell you when the clay bar is losing its effectiveness (it's resistance increases) and needs to be replaced. When you are finished with a section, dry it using the same towels you use after you wash the car. It's a good idea to rinse the entire car with a hose after you are finished with the claying task. When you are finished, do the "baggie test" again. The results will be easily felt.

Claying is an odd process. If you haven't tried it, it can be difficult to understand as it doesn't seem to conform to most of what we know about car detailing. If this is your thinking, we encourage you to give it a try. It really is easy! Many amateur detailers are a bit wary of the concept but after they try it, they are sold big time.

A clay bar is good for about four to five treatments. This depends on factors such as the size of the vehicles and how dirty they are. One important note: if you ever drop a clay bar, you MUST throw it away. The potential for causing scratches from material it picks up is just too great. If you intend to reuse the clay bar, store it in a box or baggie to keep it clean.

TIRES
Use Maguire’s Hotshine anything Silicone based will stay on longer. Please, DON"T use ArmorAll on your tires. Armor All looks good but it will dull the original black of your tires after repeated use making them look a dingy brown and also cause premature dry rotting. As far as interiors it has been known to cause older dashes to become dry and brittle because it is alcohol based.

Nitrous
http://members.aol.com/agspeed/nos.htm

Turbo Chargers
Every thing you need to know
http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm

http://www.clearimageautomotive.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sweet Neil thanks

Added it to the list come on people build this thing up if you know of sky products or how to make your Sky glow or what ever post it here. will save a ton of time searching all over the net or will let us focus on our supporters as well.
 

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How about some Stereo System Solutions??? :thumbs:

Regards,

:willy: BA :willy:
 

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HIDs can be purchased off ebay for $200-$500 depending on if you want a kit that's made in Germany or Korea. I've used the Korean kits for years and they have worked just as well as the official stuff. A couple years ago they were about $500 but they have dropped to about $200 with no loss in performance.

The same lights sold on the website above (xtralights) are also the old version that did not integrate the starter with the ballast. You'll see that each light requires to small boxes. The newer kits combine both the starter and ballast into one box unit. $399 is ridicules when considering you get a better product on ebay for $200.
 

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How about car mats, covers and front end bras? Also...iPod solutions (car chargers, mounts, etc.)
 

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Harly Wax

Took this tip from my Porsche days... For a new car, if you want to wax it, use Harly Wax. It's available on the web, or at performance/classic car shops. About $12-14 a tub.

What makes Harly wax so great is that it is 100% pure Carnauba wax. There are absolutely no abrasives or anything that can harm the paint. Look out for those "Cleaner Waxes" because they are designed to take off the oxidized paint - or the top layer of your paint if it's new and there is no oxidation!

Harly Wax is like rubbing butter all over your car; it is very smooth. Let it dry and buff it off. It doesn't leave a white powery residue, or stain the rubber if you happen to get some there (and there's lots of exposed rubber on the Sky.) You can use the Harly Wax on the paint, the brightwork, and the clear plastic that covers the head and lights.

It's a very old-time product, used by classic car enthusiasts for years. Kinda hard to find, but definitely worth the effort.
 

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Big Brake Kit

Great idea for a thread. I haven't posted in a long time because there hasn't been much to say. Now that people are starting to get their Kappas, that's going to change. My question for this thread is has anyone heard anything about a big brake kit from reputable vendors like Brembo or Wilwood. Maybe just my opinion but the rotors on the Kappas look a little small to me. I would like to see a nice slotted/vented rotor that would take up a little more room behind the rims. They give the car a real nice performance look around the wheels whether you stay with stock rims or go aftermarket. Not to mention improved braking. What do you folks think.:cool: :cool:
 
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