Motor oil
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Newer engines are delivered from the factory with oil that have special conditioners in them to aid the proper break in. Don't change your oil until after the recommended break in period, or you could do more damage than good. My suggestions wait for 3000+ miles then switch to the oil of your choice.
I don't think that this is true in most cases. It is true for the Honda S2000 and Honda does not want it changed until the recommended break-in is completed. It is believed that their oil has higher amounts of Zinc in it to aid in the break-in process. Higher performance cars like the Z06, Viper, Ford GT, and a few others have motors that have already been broken-in pre-installation and are serviced with Mobil 1 in their crankcases. Most everything else has standard dino oil that requires you to be the one responsible for a proper break-in.CarJunkie said:
I do not expect to see a synthetic in the reg. Sky. The Solstice GXP is reported to come filled with Mobil-1 so I expect that the Redline will also.
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I use only one oil, Mobil1 100% synthetic in the silver (premium) container. This stuff was sold until recently as "European" formula on the container, as it was not then certified for SAE ratings in the US, but I ran it anyway from day one in the vette - it's the factory oil for Porsche Turbos, etc. Now its certified and the container has lost the "European" title, but its still sort of expensive (about 2x of more the cheaper stuff).Ernest said:
I run 0-40 weight in the winter and a mixture of 0-40 and 15/55 in the summer, mixed to give me 10-50 weight. I change this oil every 3000 miles in the Camaro and the 'vette and 6000 in the Porsche - I know you can go longer, but I don't. I also know some people say wear in the engine on non-synthetic, but that seems to me the time when if really needs the superior features of synthetic the most.
However, given that it is a Saturn, you might look at another brand of synthetic with a good reputation: Red Line.
You can also buy synthetic fluids from Red Line for the manual trans and differential, etc., which cut wear and fricitonthere noticeably (have no idea if the car comes with that stock). Typically you pick up .5 to 1% more RWHP.
Synthetic oils do not break down as fast as conventional oils. I use Castrol Full Synthetic in all my Saturns as that is what the dealer uses. My dealer told me that with synthetics if need be you can go 1000 miles over oild change safely. Never do this but it iis possible.
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Does Mobile 1 make different grades (e.g., premium, regular or standard) of there oil? I never know that. Maybe I am getting the wrong stuff at Walmart.Lee Willis said:
I just went and looked at some old containers of Mobile 1. The first was a metal can. Any one remember those, must be 25 years old. It does not have any SAE or API certifications on it. The next was a white round bottle, it does have the a API Service rating of SF/CC,CD The bottle was from the middle/late 80’s as my truck requires CD rating. The newer bottles are marked with API Service rating of SL/CF.:cheers:
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Well, they did, back when they sold the "European" formulae at about $9/quart and US-certified Mobil1 synthetic at about $4 or whatever. I know most other companies do, often full and part synthetic, etc. Now, with the Eurpopean certified for the US, I think Mobil1 has two grades of full synthetic, premium and normal, and a half synthetic or somehting. I really don't know - you know how it is: I go into the store, look for the silver Mobil1 0-40 and 15-55 in the container I recognize, and buy a case of each: never even look at what else is there.ILVMYGT said:Does Mobile 1 make different grades (e.g., premium, regular or standard) of there oil? I never know that. Maybe I am getting the wrong stuff at Walmart.
I just went and looked at some old containers of Mobile 1. The first was a metal can. Any one remember those, must be 25 years old. It does not have any SAE or API certifications on it. The next was a white round bottle, it does have the a API Service rating of SF/CC,CD The bottle was from the middle/late 80’s as my truck requires CD rating. The newer bottles are marked with API Service rating of SL/CF.:cheers:
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Pardon my car ignorance, but hope to learn.
Over on the Solstice forum folks talk about their first oil change at 500 and/or 1000 miles.
I guess I see the benefit of getting any metal filings out of the lubrication system,
but wonder about any special run-in oil from the factory.
Can anyone enlighten me here?
Are there trade-off aside from cost?
Is there potential harm if the builder used a special lubricant?
I suppose we'll beat this one more as run-in topics start showing up.
Over on the Solstice forum folks talk about their first oil change at 500 and/or 1000 miles.
I guess I see the benefit of getting any metal filings out of the lubrication system,
but wonder about any special run-in oil from the factory.
Can anyone enlighten me here?
Are there trade-off aside from cost?
Is there potential harm if the builder used a special lubricant?
I suppose we'll beat this one more as run-in topics start showing up.
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110 Posts
If you change oil as recommended I see no reason for using synthetic oil.
Nor have I ever seen any scientific evidence (which would be extremely easy to get) that shows any benefits from the synthetic brands. Has anyone seen any such test results? I've seen test results from GM several years ago that
showed the differences in wear for the different viscosities. That was
when GM recommended 5W-30 , as I recall. The differences were not gigantic, by any means. At this point have no reason to believe synthetics are anything other than a waste of money.
Nor have I ever seen any scientific evidence (which would be extremely easy to get) that shows any benefits from the synthetic brands. Has anyone seen any such test results? I've seen test results from GM several years ago that
showed the differences in wear for the different viscosities. That was
when GM recommended 5W-30 , as I recall. The differences were not gigantic, by any means. At this point have no reason to believe synthetics are anything other than a waste of money.
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I agree with the King!
eldeeko
Since the mid 1960's the engine oils have improved so much that the cars are lasting TOO long. The only thing that keeps them off of the road is failing the smog tests. The SE and SD ratings of the 1960's detergent motor oils can keep an engine in good shape well over this 3000 mile (oil company) limit. Next time you change or have your oil changed put a few drops of the filty stuff on a napkin, wait about 5-10 minutes and notice how clean the oil is around the edges of the oil spot. That shows the dirt was in suspension in the detergent motor oil. Before these oils were introduced your were lucky to get 50,000 miles out of an engine. You wouldn't even buy a car with more than 35,000 miles on it. So, in my opinion just change your oil regularly with whatever the OEM suggests and save your money. As I think the difference would be unnoticable .kingarthur said:
eldeeko
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There are plenty of scientific research data with Amsoil... :cheers:kingarthur said:
http://www.amsoil.com/products.aspx
I'm NOT a user but I know someone that is and he swears by it...
Regards,
:willy: S.D. :willy:
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57 Posts
No doubt, if you have a stock engine and if you change your oil regularly and and everything goes well you can use regular oil and all will be fine.
On the other hand, synthetics tolerate higher temperatures better: during the height of summer, driving around with the AC on, my oil temp in the 'vette has climbed to as high as 235 F - that would be nearly to warning territory with petroleum based oil but is fine with a synthetic -- and the oil holds pressure fine.
I use it in the Porsche because it is factory-recommended. I use it in the vette and because the price differential for premium Mobil1- $4 a quart for 8 quarts twice a year for the vette, itsn't worth taking any chances on an engine that cost nearly as much as the whole car did new.
I have also seen back to back tests on a dyno with petroleum based oil and synthetic of the same grade (5-W30) on an LS6 stroker (408 cubic inches): the way the test was done was fairr and consistent, I think: and the Mobil1 freed up 8 HP (out of 490 RWHP). This deserves some explanation. Part of that may be that it produces less friction on the bearing surfaces: similar tests on stock engines (310 RWHP) show a difference of only 2-3 HP, so little you aren't sure its really there. But stroker LSx V8s are very hard on the oil-- crankcase windage is terrible -- they literally beat the oil (the crank flings it around like crazy, friction here probably robs the engine of 15 HP) and here the sythetic does much better, producing less friction -- I think this is where the extra power comes from: synthetic also airates less than petroleum based and so does much better in regard to maintaining consistent oil pressure in a stroker.
On the other hand, synthetics tolerate higher temperatures better: during the height of summer, driving around with the AC on, my oil temp in the 'vette has climbed to as high as 235 F - that would be nearly to warning territory with petroleum based oil but is fine with a synthetic -- and the oil holds pressure fine.
I use it in the Porsche because it is factory-recommended. I use it in the vette and because the price differential for premium Mobil1- $4 a quart for 8 quarts twice a year for the vette, itsn't worth taking any chances on an engine that cost nearly as much as the whole car did new.
I have also seen back to back tests on a dyno with petroleum based oil and synthetic of the same grade (5-W30) on an LS6 stroker (408 cubic inches): the way the test was done was fairr and consistent, I think: and the Mobil1 freed up 8 HP (out of 490 RWHP). This deserves some explanation. Part of that may be that it produces less friction on the bearing surfaces: similar tests on stock engines (310 RWHP) show a difference of only 2-3 HP, so little you aren't sure its really there. But stroker LSx V8s are very hard on the oil-- crankcase windage is terrible -- they literally beat the oil (the crank flings it around like crazy, friction here probably robs the engine of 15 HP) and here the sythetic does much better, producing less friction -- I think this is where the extra power comes from: synthetic also airates less than petroleum based and so does much better in regard to maintaining consistent oil pressure in a stroker.
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One thing I have also heard is that conventional motor oil detergents are harsh on your gaskets causing them to leak. Ive been told that thats not the case with synthetics ( I have a 1990 Chevy 1/2 ton p/u & always used castrol straight 30wt it has 100,000 miles & no leaks) The way I see it is that if the manufactuers could get 200,000 miles out of an engine with synthetic and only 100,000 miles on conventional they would state to use the synthetic as it would make them seem to have a better product,and thats not the case. Its really sad to say that most people keep their cars 4-5 years so long term effects would not really be an issue with this car. I would be more concerned for the people up north storing this car in winter months.
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If you are worried about the oil life, you can get it analyzed. They can tell how mush oil life is remaining and what is in the oil such as metals and fuel. The guys running the diesel pickup are using this method. They are comparing the oil analysis to the truck oil reminder (DIC) and found out it’s pretty close. They are running between 7500 and 10000 mile between the changes.
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