:agree: :thumbs:CarJunkie said:Don't change your oil until after the recommended break in period, or you could do more damage than good. My suggestions wait for 3000+ miles then switch to the oil of your choice.
I don't think that this is true in most cases. It is true for the Honda S2000 and Honda does not want it changed until the recommended break-in is completed. It is believed that their oil has higher amounts of Zinc in it to aid in the break-in process. Higher performance cars like the Z06, Viper, Ford GT, and a few others have motors that have already been broken-in pre-installation and are serviced with Mobil 1 in their crankcases. Most everything else has standard dino oil that requires you to be the one responsible for a proper break-in.CarJunkie said:Newer engines are delivered from the factory with oil that have special conditioners in them to aid the proper break in. Don't change your oil until after the recommended break in period, or you could do more damage than good. My suggestions wait for 3000+ miles then switch to the oil of your choice.
I use only one oil, Mobil1 100% synthetic in the silver (premium) container. This stuff was sold until recently as "European" formula on the container, as it was not then certified for SAE ratings in the US, but I ran it anyway from day one in the vette - it's the factory oil for Porsche Turbos, etc. Now its certified and the container has lost the "European" title, but its still sort of expensive (about 2x of more the cheaper stuff).Ernest said:Is the SKY coming with Full synthetic oil from factory? If it isn't, that will be changed at frist opportunity, I believe in full synthetics, does anyone else?
ERNEST:yesnod:
Does Mobile 1 make different grades (e.g., premium, regular or standard) of there oil? I never know that. Maybe I am getting the wrong stuff at Walmart.Lee Willis said:I use only one oil, Mobil1 100% synthetic in the silver (premium) container. This stuff was sold until recently as "European" formula on the container, as it was not then certified for SAE ratings in the US, but I ran it anyway from day one in the vette - it's the factory oil for Porsche Turbos, etc. Now its certified and the container has lost the "European" title, but its still sort of expensive (about 2x of more the cheaper stuff).
Well, they did, back when they sold the "European" formulae at about $9/quart and US-certified Mobil1 synthetic at about $4 or whatever. I know most other companies do, often full and part synthetic, etc. Now, with the Eurpopean certified for the US, I think Mobil1 has two grades of full synthetic, premium and normal, and a half synthetic or somehting. I really don't know - you know how it is: I go into the store, look for the silver Mobil1 0-40 and 15-55 in the container I recognize, and buy a case of each: never even look at what else is there.ILVMYGT said:Does Mobile 1 make different grades (e.g., premium, regular or standard) of there oil? I never know that. Maybe I am getting the wrong stuff at Walmart.![]()
I just went and looked at some old containers of Mobile 1. The first was a metal can. Any one remember those, must be 25 years old. It does not have any SAE or API certifications on it. The next was a white round bottle, it does have the a API Service rating of SF/CC,CD The bottle was from the middle/late 80’s as my truck requires CD rating. The newer bottles are marked with API Service rating of SL/CF.:cheers:
Since the mid 1960's the engine oils have improved so much that the cars are lasting TOO long. The only thing that keeps them off of the road is failing the smog tests. The SE and SD ratings of the 1960's detergent motor oils can keep an engine in good shape well over this 3000 mile (oil company) limit. Next time you change or have your oil changed put a few drops of the filty stuff on a napkin, wait about 5-10 minutes and notice how clean the oil is around the edges of the oil spot. That shows the dirt was in suspension in the detergent motor oil. Before these oils were introduced your were lucky to get 50,000 miles out of an engine. You wouldn't even buy a car with more than 35,000 miles on it. So, in my opinion just change your oil regularly with whatever the OEM suggests and save your money. As I think the difference would be unnoticable .kingarthur said:If you change oil as recommended I see no reason for using synthetic oil.
Nor have I ever seen any scientific evidence (which would be extremely easy to get) that shows any benefits from the synthetic brands. Has anyone seen any such test results? I've seen test results from GM several years ago that
showed the differences in wear for the different viscosities. That was
when GM recommended 5W-30 , as I recall. The differences were not gigantic, by any means. At this point have no reason to believe synthetics are anything other than a waste of money.
There are plenty of scientific research data with Amsoil... :cheers:kingarthur said:If you change oil as recommended I see no reason for using synthetic oil.
Nor have I ever seen any scientific evidence (which would be extremely easy to get) that shows any benefits from the synthetic brands. Has anyone seen any such test results? I've seen test results from GM several years ago that
showed the differences in wear for the different viscosities. That was
when GM recommended 5W-30 , as I recall. The differences were not gigantic, by any means. At this point have no reason to believe synthetics are anything other than a waste of money.
Then again, not worth 1-2% power gain. Not even noticable. Why waste the money? Unless it is required by the manufacturer why mess with it?Lee Willis said:No doubt, if you have a stock engine and if you change your oil .............stock engines (310 RWHP) show a difference of only 2-3 HP