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Hang in there, Koobie! :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm going to. The challenge is frustrating, but exciting at the same time. Odd yes I know.

I was in a real pickle the other night. I was changing the brakes on my 330Ci and the bolts in the rotors were rusted! It took me over 5 hours to get the passenger rotor off. So the next day I finally a screw extractor and did the left side in about 2 to 3 hours. I never dealt with a DIY that hard since the lower intake gasket on the 3.1L Chevy motor!!
 

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Koobie : Dang it, so the dealer is saying the BCM has to be hooked up to the car to receive a reprogram. I thought they just hooked it up to their equipment and did a few mouse clicks? Oh well, I need to try and get the car started. If it doesn't start, I'll try jumping it.
Rather than jump it I would put a charger on it to get the battery fully up to charge before trying anything else. There have been reports of odd behavior when the battery is very weak. It may also be worth having the battery load tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well I have another update:

I think by giving the car time to relearn the OEM BCM really helped out. The car now drives fine. However, there still is power window / door lock issues. This week I plan to get the new BCM reprogrammed (I have been busy) and swapped in. While I'm at the dealer I'm going to tell them to give the car a thorough look over to see what else needs to be done. I'll then take further action. I plan to DIY everything I possibly can.

I'm tired of the gremlins, so I want to get this car fixed, paid for (Only $6,250 left!), and then get the Solo Exhaust on my GXP on this car + a few other bits and pieces.
 

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As long as you have a power window issue I would hold off on the BCM, and look for wiring harness issues. The doors would be a good starting point, as they are common to both the locks and the windows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
As long as you have a power window issue I would hold off on the BCM, and look for wiring harness issues. The doors would be a good starting point, as they are common to both the locks and the windows.
You know, I may just schedule an appointment to get an idea of what is going on. I'm going to see if I can drop off the car today and just pick it up tomorrow afternoon when I find out whatever is going on.

Because the fuse box under the hood goes for about $110 on Ebay, I have a BCM I cannot return so I may have to resell it if it isn't the problem. I dunno, I just want it fixed, and then I can FINALLY focus on the rattles / squeaks.

Thanks again.

John
 

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If you get to the point that you have a BCM that you don't need, get in touch with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
If you get to the point that you have a BCM that you don't need, get in touch with me.
Will do.

I talked to the wife and we agreed to just drop the car off at a GM dealer by our house and have the dealer look at it with a fine tooth comb. I want a list of every single little thing wrong with it. Rattles, squeaks, power windows, door locks, etc. I'm okay with paying for the inspection, because knowing is half the battle (Thanks GI Joe!).

I forgot she has an important job interview coming up, so I'm going to see if I can get it in on Thursday morning... More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well another update:

My wife has a critical job interview today, so I decided to take the Red Line to work "just in case" something would happen, and I'm glad I checked the car this morning.

It wouldn't start.

Literally I put the key in, turn it to the next position, everything powers on, so I proceed to start the car and everything shuts down immediately. I tried again and nothing. Nada.

So when I get home tonight I'm going to try starting it again, if it doesn't work, I'll just get it towed to the dealer I already had an appointment with. Tired of dealing with the crap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Well I got the car to the dealer last night. They called me at 7:15 am to let me know they can't get to it until Friday so I'll update this thread then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Okay, dealer has called me:

1.) 30A fuse will correct the windows
2.) Pass side door lock switch has failed - these two put together is about $380

3.) Needs "maintenance" for the drivetrain - $350, his main example was "throttle body cleaning" hmmmm... BS or no? I'm leaning towards BS.

4.) Key fob is bad, which is why the keyless doesn't work - $180 - I've read threads about a quick solder job is the usual fix for these right? Because both of them don't work (just on occasion).

5.) Squeaks and rattles - $500-$600 to hunt them down, they advised with just leaving it be.

They cannot replicate the problem I'm having with starting the car up and the random door locking.

I'm almost going to call them and tell them to correct #1 and I'll take the estimate for the rest and handle #4 & #5.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I've told them to proceed with 1 & 2. I just want the windows & door locks corrected for now. I'll buy a solder kit and correct #5 (seen the DIY on here) and I'll do all the maintenance work myself. :)
 

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I've told them to proceed with 1 & 2. I just want the windows & door locks corrected for now. I'll buy a solder kit and correct #5 (seen the DIY on here) and I'll do all the maintenance work myself. :)
Sounds like a good plan, Koobs! :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Koobs... I like that LOL!
 

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Okay, dealer has called me:

4.) Key fob is bad, which is why the keyless doesn't work - $180 - I've read threads about a quick solder job is the usual fix for these right? Because both of them don't work (just on occasion).]
Hey Koobie, I remember seeing an article recently about defective key fobs. It said that before you throw it away or get a new one, try opening it up and cleaning the button contacts with a pencil eraser. Sometimes corrosion or dirt build-up can prevent proper operation.

Wouldn't you know that I read that article right after I threw away my daughter's "defective" key fob!?! :banghead:

Hope that's all it takes for you so you can save a few bucks :thumbs:
 

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Actually on my FOB, the battery holder came totally lose.:rolleyes:.. I had to re solder the 2, or was it 3 solder points. Make sure you get a cheapo iron with a pointy tip..:thumbs: I also use pure 99% Isopropyl alcohol to clean the little pcb, and the rubber, (the whole thing really) before reassembling. I also reinserted the original battery and it was still good to go. RATshack also sells 3 for under 10 bucks.. I think I posted a thread on this, if not there are several..:cheers:

PS: that dealer was hungry for work...and they are overcharging up the you-know-what for what they are doing.. Sad...:skep:
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well the car is ready... Just got the phone call. What an awkward conversation.

I asked why the passenger door window switch would cause for BOTH to go out and he said: "It is all intertwined." I can't get a more technical explanation?

Seriously?:banghead:
 

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Two words: Service Manual.

The door locks are controlled by the BCM, but commanded by the switches. If one fails in the right way it will continually, or sporadically, send incorrect signals to the BCM, thus causing the erratic and incorrect action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Two words: Service Manual.

The door locks are controlled by the BCM, but commanded by the switches. If one fails in the right way it will continually, or sporadically, send incorrect signals to the BCM, thus causing the erratic and incorrect action.
Now that is the explanation I like to hear!

Thanks :)


I got the car back and it runs great, windows and door locks work with no issue. I get back into the car and the dash / gauge lights don't work now! I'm reading around on the forums and it seems I am not the only person with this issue.

Yes I did check the dimmer by my knee :) It is on full opacity.
 

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I get that from time to time where the gauges and radio display are too dim (nothing with the dimmer switch). I think its something with the daylight sensor switch on the front of the dash....
 
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