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If you get the Dorman programmer, you have to go thru and pair any existing fobs you have when you pair the new one. For the non working one you have, be sure the check for broken solder on the battery clip, and that it’s got a fresh battery. I went thru this exact thing a few weeks back and the 13732 worked for me.
Here‘s a YouTube video that shows it all...
I just did mine 2 months ago, just like this video. No brainer. I think my programmer even came with the additional fob.
I needed a back up also. Took 2 minutes tops!

Stay well, Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I ordered the Dorman programmer/Fob for $52 after loosing my keys in the trunk while adding springs. I now will have two full sets (separated from each other!!!) and be able to avoid that mistake again.....I hope.
 

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My story this year with FOBs.

The Sky I am restoring given the name Money-Pit, I bought last January with no FOBs. I bought 4 aftermarket knock-offs for $20 ($5 each on eBay) and got them programmed for $58 at my local lock smith. The issue with the aftermarket FOBs is that they had raised buttons which I accidentally activated all the time while in my pocket. I ended up buying 4 for $20 ($5 each on eBay again) OEM replacement cases, sanded the edges of the circuit boards to fit, and so in the end it cost me $20+$58+$20=$98 for 4 working FOBs.

BUT now the plot thickens.

My early-made Sky lacks the power door lock buttons which were introduced later in the model year. Without working FOBs for the first few months, and no power door lock buttons, the only way to know if the power locks worked was to use the DIC to program them to automatically lock the doors when driving. BUT setting it to do so didn't get any locking action.

My four working FOBs, only the trunk release and emergency works, still NO power door locks. I thought maybe the ill radio played a part (fixed and doesn't), now wondering if the brake sensor calibration the car requires is influential. I hope calibrating the brake pedal sensor will also wake up my cruise control which has never worked either. Money-Pit requires so much from me. I am determined to get everything 100% again, a slow but steady process.

Regarding that Dorman programmer, I understood it is a one-time use item. After you program up to 4 FOBs to the same car, it cannot be used on the same car again, nor another car.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So he moral of that story is to make sure you get 4 new fobs and program them ALL before throwing away the programmer !!!!
 

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I assume you have checked that Fuse 26 in the BCM is good and is being supplied with power.

What happens if you manually lock the doors and then put the transmission in park (auto) or turn off the ignition (manual)?

If the ignition is on and a door is open (check each individually) do you get a chime and a "Door Ajar" message?
 

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I assume you have checked that Fuse 26 in the BCM is good and is being supplied with power.

What happens if you manually lock the doors and then put the transmission in park (auto) or turn off the ignition (manual)?

If the ignition is on and a door is open (check each individually) do you get a chime and a "Door Ajar" message?
Hi JohnWR,

Thank you for your involvement.

I did the following tests and checks just now.
1) I checked fuse 26 and it is good.
2) I measured voltage at the source side of the #26 fuse socket and I get 12V as I should.
3) I have a manual transmission. I locked the doors and turned off the ignition. I get no response.
4) With the key in the ignition but not turned, I opened each door individually. Chiming happens when opening the driver door, but not when opening the passenger door.
5) When either door is opened, I get the "DOOR AJAR" notification in the DIC.
6) The interior lighting lights-up when either door is opened.
7) All IP indicator light bulbs are confirmed to work when turning the key.
8) My programmed key FOBs open the trunk and also beeps the horn with the red emergency button.
9) I hit the "lock" on any key FOB but get no response from the power door locks, nor any response from the IP. I assume the security system does not get activated because I get no indications of any kind from the IP lights nor the display on the DIC.
10) Added: I disconnected the connectors to each of the door lock assemblies and inspected them for corrosion. They look fine. Each connector has 6 positions, but have only 4 wires and 4 active pins each.

My Sky acts like I don't have power door locks. Unfortunately my Sky is a very early one that was made without the standard power door lock buttons built into the driver and passenger doors. If it does not have power door locks, then why do I have working power trunk release and emergency buttons?
 

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Hi JohnWR,

Thank you for your involvement.

[deleted some content]

My Sky acts like I don't have power door locks. Unfortunately my Sky is a very early one that was made without the standard power door lock buttons built into the driver and passenger doors. If it does not have power door locks, then why do I have working power trunk release and emergency buttons?
Just to satisfy my curiousity, can you check the label in the glove box, and see if AU3 is somewhere on the label. AU3 is GM for "Door Lock, Power"
 

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All Skys have power door locks. As far as i know they are not listed as an option for any year of production.

There are three relays mounted to the BCM circuit board (therefore not easily accessible) that have to have continuity for the locks to function. Two of them are for unlocking the doors (one for each) and one of them locks both doors. If the lock relay has failed in the right way, the locks will not operate in either direction. Failure in the other relays will result in one door or the other not operating correctly.

The door open indication suggests that the ground side of the control circuits is intact, and checking for power through the fuse rules out most issues on the power side.

I will look for any single failure points that I missed the first time, but I am leaning toward a bad PCB relay in the BCM.

AU3 is not definitive for the 2007 Sky. My '07 has power locks, but does not have AU3 in the RPO code list.
 

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You might also want to check the DIC Personalization Menu to see if some of the remote locking/unlocking features have been altered from the stock settings.

I doubt that the settings can be changed in such a manner to be as you described, but I have seen stranger settings over the years.

:dunno:

.
 

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All Skys have power door locks. As far as i know they are not listed as an option for any year of production.

[portion deleted]

AU3 is not definitive for the 2007 Sky. My '07 has power locks, but does not have AU3 in the RPO code list.
OK, if you say so. I will leave it to you to make suggestions on this one.

:dunno:
 

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You might also want to check the DIC Personalization Menu to see if some of the remote locking/unlocking features have been altered from the stock settings.

I doubt that the settings can be changed in such a manner to be as you described, but I have seen stranger settings over the years.

:dunno:

.
An excellent idea. My read of the owner's manual suggests that the automatic unlocking can be turned off, although the automatic locking is considered a safety feature and there is no indication that it can be defeated.

An option I found that may help with troubleshooting is the lock and unlock horn options. Setting those to "on" may indicate whether the RKE receiver is communicating and it is something else that isn't working properly.

OK, if you say so. I will leave it to you to make suggestions on this one.

:dunno:
The RPO code to check is AU0 (Remote Keyless Entry). I can only guess that without a button the early '07 Skys did not technically have power door locks, so AU3 is not included in the list.

My '07 RPO label:
RPO 07.PNG
 

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Thank guys for stepping in here to help.

I added #10 as follows.
10) Added: I disconnected the connectors to each door lock assembly and inspected them for corrosion. They look fine. Each connector has 6 positions, but have only 4 wires and 4 active pins each.

Here is the connector with 4 of 6 terminals used, both sides the same.
112541

Driver-side wire colors: BLACK, TAN, GRAY, GRAY/BLACK (pictured)
Passenger side wire colors: BLACK, TAN, TAN/WHITE, GRAY
112542


Here is my driver-side power door lock. I see it has 5 active terminals. I wonder if the extra one is used if I had control buttons on the doors. If only I had a 2007 Helm service manual.
112543


I just went through every feature in my DIC menu which wasn't much. I lack a lot of things listed in the owners manual, assumed for the high-end Redline Edition. I turned every feature on which made no difference.

As far as my option codes are concerned, here is my glove box sticker. No code AU3.
112544


My brake lights never worked. Not knowing any better, I replaced the brake pedal sensor thinking it was a simple on/off switch. Afterward I learned on this forum that I surely now require calibration from a service center. I have wondered if the power door locks is somehow related and will suddenly work after calibration.
 

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There were three different connector bodies used in the 2007 Sky, identified as Early, Mid, and Late Production. Pinouts for each are the same, and all use only four of the six pins.

Driver:
  1. Not Used
  2. TN - Lock Actuator Unlock Control
  3. GY - Lock Actuator Lock Control
  4. GY/BK - Door Ajar Switch Signal
  5. Not Used
  6. BK - Ground
Passenger:
  1. TN/WH - Door Ajar Switch Signal
  2. Not Used
  3. BK - Ground
  4. Not Used
  5. TN - Lock Actuator Unlock Control
  6. GY - Lock Actuator Lock Control
The Lock and Unlock control terminals work in opposition:
  • +V on Lock and 0V on Unlock will lock the door.
  • +V on Unlock and 0V on Lock will unlock the door.
The lock button is never connected to the actuator. Its wiring goes directly to the BCM through the Door Harness to IP Body Harness connector. As an aside: The functionality exists in your BCM, and the switch inputs are active. If you connect the proper dual-resistance switch to the BCM input you can manually actuate your power door locks.

I am not aware of any vehicle functionality that is exclusive to the RL that is not driveline related, but I suppose there could be something.

There is no indication anywhere that the BPP sensor has any influence on the operation of the door locks.

Since you have the door panels off and the connector dis-connected, I would try jumpering to the actuators with + and 0 V to see if they work, and also checking to see if the Lock Actuator Unlock Control harness side wires are connected to chassis ground and to each other.
 

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AU3 is not definitive for the 2007 Sky. My '07 has power locks, but does not have AU3 in the RPO code list.
Interestingly, my 1st 1000 Solstice doesn't have the interior power door lock switch, yet has both AU0 and AU3 codes on the label. But then, not all Solstices had the power door locks, it was an option. Who knows? Not I!

:thumbs:

.
 

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There were three different connector bodies used in the 2007 Sky, identified as Early, Mid, and Late Production. Pinouts for each are the same, and all use only four of the six pins.

Driver:
  1. Not Used
  2. TN - Lock Actuator Unlock Control
  3. GY - Lock Actuator Lock Control
  4. GY/BK - Door Ajar Switch Signal
  5. Not Used
  6. BK - Ground
Passenger:
  1. TN/WH - Door Ajar Switch Signal
  2. Not Used
  3. BK - Ground
  4. Not Used
  5. TN - Lock Actuator Unlock Control
  6. GY - Lock Actuator Lock Control
The Lock and Unlock control terminals work in opposition:
  • +V on Lock and 0V on Unlock will lock the door.
  • +V on Unlock and 0V on Lock will unlock the door.
The lock button is never connected to the actuator. Its wiring goes directly to the BCM through the Door Harness to IP Body Harness connector. As an aside: The functionality exists in your BCM, and the switch inputs are active. If you connect the proper dual-resistance switch to the BCM input you can manually actuate your power door locks.

I am not aware of any vehicle functionality that is exclusive to the RL that is not driveline related, but I suppose there could be something.

There is no indication anywhere that the BPP sensor has any influence on the operation of the door locks.

Since you have the door panels off and the connector dis-connected, I would try jumpering to the actuators with + and 0 V to see if they work, and also checking to see if the Lock Actuator Unlock Control harness side wires are connected to chassis ground and to each other.
JohnWR,

THANK YOU SO MUCH for that information. I will perform a test on each actuator by bypassing the entire vehicle and get 12V power direct to the corresponding connector pins. Given the tight quarters requiring working in the blind, I will remove them one at a time to access the pins for the test. I am hoping the actuators are dead for if they are not, then the problem is somewhere else in the car. That would be a serious bummer.

Come to think of it, I could also take a voltage reading off the wire harness when pushing the right FOB button.
 

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Interestingly, my 1st 1000 Solstice doesn't have the interior power door lock switch, yet has both AU0 and AU3 codes on the label. But then, not all Solstices had the power door locks, it was an option. Who knows? Not I!

:thumbs:

.
This is the type of thing that has taught me to be very cautious in analysing a Solstice based on Sky information and vice-versa. For all of their similarities and shared components, there are some weitd and inexplicable differences.
 

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This is the type of thing that has taught me to be very cautious in analysing a Solstice based on Sky information and vice-versa. For all of their similarities and shared components, there are some weitd and inexplicable differences.
You would think that they'd be the same, sharing a production line and intermixed on that same line. and how wrong you would be. (I just lost my entire line of thought while watching an ad on tv for Rice Krispies) - Good night all!

.
 

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With the situation with my Sky locks not activating, I do wonder if there is something more going on. If the door locks them self were faulty, wouldn't there still be some kind of response related to the security system? Oh well, I will go through my planned power door lock testing, maybe early this morning, maybe late tonight.

We're going to try golfing today, the first time this year. The weather looks promising. I understand Illinois allows 9 holes walking now in our area during the COVID-19 mitigation.
 

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I ended up removing the driver door latch/actuator to test it. I get no response when applying 12V, negative to the black wire connection, and positive to either the tan or gray wire connection. I consider that good news. Hopefully new latch/actuators will solve my problem.

I assume I can buy these fairly affordable at local auto-part retailers.
Are there any suppliers to avoid reliability issues?
Any brands known to be both affordable and reliable?
112570
 

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I ended up removing the driver door latch/actuator to test it. I get no response when applying 12V, negative to the black wire connection, and positive to either the tan or gray wire connection. I consider that good news. Hopefully new latch/actuators will solve my problem.

.......
That isn't how they work. To operate the lock the 12V and ground wires are attached to the tan and grey wires. One polarity locks, and the reverse polarity unlocks it.

Specifically, 12V to tan and 0V to grey unlocks, while 12V to grey and 0V to tan locks.

The ground in the connector is used for the door ajar switch and has no function with the locking mechanism.
 
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