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That isn't how they work. To operate the lock the 12V and ground wires are attached to the tan and grey wires. One polarity locks, and the reverse polarity unlocks it.

Specifically, 12V to tan and 0V to grey unlocks, while 12V to grey and 0V to tan locks.

The ground in the connector is used for the door ajar switch and has no function with the locking mechanism.
Ah, I understand.

I tested again as you suggested and the driver side actuator works in both directions, lock and unlock when reversing polarity. I will install it back into the car door.

So my problem is not related to the door actuators, but rather elsewhere in the door lock control system. Do you have any clue where to look next?
 

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........ Do you have any clue where to look next?
In Post 33 i suggested a continuity check. To be more clear about it:

In the car-side harnesses on both sides, with the actuators unplugged, you should have continuity between the tan and grey wires, and between each of those wires and the car's chassis.
 

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In Post 33 i suggested a continuity check. To be more clear about it:

In the car-side harnesses on both sides, with the actuators unplugged, you should have continuity between the tan and grey wires, and between each of those wires and the car's chassis.
Just now I followed your instruction closely. Here is my understanding of the test procedure and the results.

#1 Door Lock Actuator Test
Both door locks were disconnected electrically from the vehicle (connector removed) and then I attach an independent 12V source to one tan terminal on the actuator, and 0V from that same power source to the gray terminal on the actuator.
TEST RESULTS: Both door lock actuators work. I get a strong clicking action from each.

#2 Continuity Test From Those Same Pins (but on the wire harness side, not on the actual actuators)
I used a multi-meter that beeps when there is continuity. I checked for continuity between the same pins described in #1 Actuator Test but done on the wire harness side, and also checked each of them to the door metal and then also to the main car body metal.
TEST RESULTS: All 4 pins (2 per side) are grounded to the door steel and main body steel.
 

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I think that you have verified about as much of the hardware as you can.

There are two other tests I can think of that would be to:
  1. Connect a test light (a meter probably won't respond fast enough) across the tan and grey wires and activate the lock
  2. Connect a door lock switch or resistor to the input of the BCM to see if that will trigger the locks.
The interior door lock control uses a single wire that grounds the input through one of two different resistor values to activate the lock or unlock operation. there is a thread here or on the Solstice forum in which @TomatoSoup (I think) detailed how to do it.

I have been thinking that the BCM uses some sort of feedback from the lock circuit to trigger the horn beep and light flash, but i did a quick test on mine this morning that makes me question that. I will do some more testing this evening to see if I can understand how the system is supposed to work.
 

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Thank you JohnWR for those tips. I will look into both of those tests.

I wonder if something inside the BCM has failed. I am tempted to open up my BCM and inspect solder joints. Maybe a little solder touch-up will fix my troubles.

Are there programming or compatibility issues if I replace the BCM with a second-hand one from a donor Sky? Are BCMs generic or are they sensitive to the options installed in a Sky?

I don't believe the trouble lies with the FOB receiver because it executes commands given it from FOBs for the trunk release and emergency. Regardless, I will inspect the electrical connections to it. It's that little tan box mounted behind the waterfall, right?
 

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The typical failure mode with the OEM fobs was that the conductive coating on the rubber button pad would wear off and no longer make electrical contact.
 

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Thank you JohnWR for those tips. I will look into both of those tests.

I wonder if something inside the BCM has failed. I am tempted to open up my BCM and inspect solder joints. Maybe a little solder touch-up will fix my troubles.

Are there programming or compatibility issues if I replace the BCM with a second-hand one from a donor Sky? Are BCMs generic or are they sensitive to the options installed in a Sky?

I don't believe the trouble lies with the FOB receiver because it executes commands given it from FOBs for the trunk release and emergency. Regardless, I will inspect the electrical connections to it. It's that little tan box mounted behind the waterfall, right?
Communication between the BCM and the RCDLR is by LAN, so connections are not going to be a problem. If there was a connection problem you would not lose a single function, you would lose everything. Just as it is unlikely to be a failure within the BCM because losing one specific function - unless it is a circuit board or relay failure - is impossibly unlikely.

So, I have spent some time in the garage pushing buttons to see what happens.
  1. When you power your car on, does the DIC display "SATURN SKY" before switching to the odometer?
  2. When the odometer is displayed, do you also have a display of the temperature?
  3. You said that your DIC personalization list is missing items. What is in the scroll?
My '07 is an earlier build than yours and, except for the single vs 6-disc CD player, is an identical twin. Our cars should be functionally identical, and yet i have all of the options listed in the personalization instructions:
  1. OIL LIFE RESET
  2. UNITS: ENGLISH / METRIC
  3. LOCK HORN: OFF / ON
  4. UNLOCK HORN: OFF / ON
  5. LIGHT FLASH: OFF / ON
  6. DELAY LOCK: OFF / ON
  7. AUTO UNLCK: ALL / DRIVER / NONE
  8. EXT LIGHTS: OFF / ON
  9. LANGUAGE: ENGLISH / FRENCH / SPANISH / GERMAN
 

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The typical failure mode with the OEM fobs was that the conductive coating on the rubber button pad would wear off and no longer make electrical contact.
My situation is not that. My Sky came with one key and no FOBs. I bought 4 new FOBs, got them programmed, and they operate only the trunk release and emergency.

But I appreciate your input.
 

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Communication between the BCM and the RCDLR is by LAN, so connections are not going to be a problem. If there was a connection problem you would not lose a single function, you would lose everything. Just as it is unlikely to be a failure within the BCM because losing one specific function - unless it is a circuit board or relay failure - is impossibly unlikely.

So, I have spent some time in the garage pushing buttons to see what happens.
  1. When you power your car on, does the DIC display "SATURN SKY" before switching to the odometer?
  2. When the odometer is displayed, do you also have a display of the temperature?
  3. You said that your DIC personalization list is missing items. What is in the scroll?
My '07 is an earlier build than yours and, except for the single vs 6-disc CD player, is an identical twin. Our cars should be functionally identical, and yet i have all of the options listed in the personalization instructions:
  1. OIL LIFE RESET
  2. UNITS: ENGLISH / METRIC
  3. LOCK HORN: OFF / ON
  4. UNLOCK HORN: OFF / ON
  5. LIGHT FLASH: OFF / ON
  6. DELAY LOCK: OFF / ON
  7. AUTO UNLCK: ALL / DRIVER / NONE
  8. EXT LIGHTS: OFF / ON
  9. LANGUAGE: ENGLISH / FRENCH / SPANISH / GERMAN
Hi JohnWR,

I sat in my Sky and went through everything like you did. Mine is identical yours with one exception.
My Sky does NOT have menu item 7. AUTO UNLCK: ALL / DRIVER / NONE
BUT.......
Going through my 2007 owners manual, on page 155, at the end of the AUTO UNLK section it states the following.
"If you have a manual transmission vehicle, the door(s) will automatically unlock when the key is turned off."
The implication is that my Base Sky with manual transmission would not have that menu item.

So my question to you is....
Does your early-made 2007 base Sky have an automatic or manual transmission?
 

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Hi JohnWR,

I sat in my Sky and went through everything like you did. Mine is identical yours with one exception.
My Sky does NOT have menu item 7. AUTO UNLCK: ALL / DRIVER / NONE
BUT.......
Going through my 2007 owners manual, on page 155, at the end of the AUTO UNLK section it states the following.
"If you have a manual transmission vehicle, the door(s) will automatically unlock when the key is turned off."
The implication is that my Base Sky with manual transmission would not have that menu item.

So my question to you is....
Does your early-made 2007 base Sky have an automatic or manual transmission?
As I said, mine is functionally identical. I have a manual transmission, but it actually doesn't matter since the menu option would be there anyway. Read the section again and you will see that the difference between manual and auto is when the automatic unlock occurs. An auto unlocks when shifted to park, and the manual when keyed off.

Are you saying that you do see the "Saturn Sky" banner, and do have a temperature display next to the odometer?
 

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Are you saying that you do see the "Saturn Sky" banner, and do have a temperature display next to the odometer?
Yes, I have the "Saturn Sky" banner first, immediately followed by my Auto Lights setting (assumed because the car is in the garage and it's auto-lighting). When I get going, up comes my odometer (on the right) with the outside temperature (on the left).
 

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As I said, mine is functionally identical. I have a manual transmission, but it actually doesn't matter since the menu option would be there anyway. Read the section again and you will see that the difference between manual and auto is when the automatic unlock occurs. An auto unlocks when shifted to park, and the manual when keyed off.
Interesting that we both have base Skys with manual transmission, made in the same time period, yet I lack that menu item. I wonder if that means anything.
 

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JohnWR,

I get the feeling that there might be a physical connection failure between the door locks and the BCM. If you have the information available, could you confirm that the 4 wires that control the door locks (2x tan and 2x gray) all go independently direct into the BCM, and which of those 3 busy connectors they enter through? I assume each wire enters the BCM with their own dedicated pin for individual control. I want to check for broken or damaged pins. You made reference to adding control switches. Maybe my answer is there.

Also, regarding the wire harnesses from the doors to the car body. Do they connect under the hood, up high by the door hinges?
 

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JohnWR,

I get the feeling that there might be a physical connection failure between the door locks and the BCM. If you have the information available, could you confirm that the 4 wires that control the door locks (2x tan and 2x gray) all go independently direct into the BCM, and which of those 3 busy connectors they enter through? I assume each wire enters the BCM with their own dedicated pin for individual control. I want to check for broken or damaged pins. You made reference to adding control switches. Maybe my answer is there.

Also, regarding the wire harnesses from the doors to the car body. Do they connect under the hood, up high by the door hinges?
A problem between the locks and the BCM should not affect the illumination of the padlock icon in the DIC, the flashing of the lights, or the beep of the horn. I cycled mine with the door lock fuse pulled and the lights and horn operated just as they did with the fuse installed. I am reasonably confident based on that test that the padlock icon, lights, and horn are independent of anything in the actuator control circuit.

Also, by checking continuity between the tan and grey wires at the actuator connector and the chassis ground you confirmed that there is a connection from the actuator to the BCM through the relays, and back out to the chassis ground lug, since that is the conection path from actuator to chassis. What you didn't test for is a short circuit between the tan and grey wires between the actuator and the BCM, but a short there would blow the 15A fuse as soon as either the lock or unlock relay operated.

I do not have access to the manual at this moment, but you can pretty easily check for short circuits y unplugging all three of the connectors and checking for continuity between the tan and grey wires in each actuator connector. I may have this backward, but i remember that the grey wires are connected to each other while the tan wires are independent to enable the doors to be unlocked individually.

As I have said before, the control switches are independent inputs to the BCM and their only "connection" to the actuator wires is through the logic in the BCM: The switch provides a signal to the controller in the BCM and the controller actuates the relay to route power to the actuator. At the same time a data signal is sent over the LAN to the DIC to light or extinguish the padlock icon as needed. Separate outputs go to the relays in the Underhood Fuse Block to operate the light and horn relays.

Based on the name of the harness connector I expect the wires to run through the Instrument Panel harness to the BCM.

My best guess is that your BCM has the wrong program in it. I thought the lack of a Saturn Sky banner and temperature display might be indicative of that, but that was clearly a dead end.

Are there any other functions that do not work? Your idea about the BPP sensor causing this is a long shot, and there is nothing that I have seen to suggest that it is, but ...
 

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Isn't there an old saying that chasing down an electrical problem is like chasing smoke? or something like that.
 

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JohnWR,

Everything you say makes sense.

There is one bit of information I need to point out here. I mentioned this in earlier posts inside other discussions, but I need to make this very clear for this discussion which might change the game. My odometer reading is not true to the miles on the car by a very significant amount.

I bought the car off eBay. Before bidding, I ran an AutoCheck report (supplied by eBay) and another check called Member Reports Online. Both stated the car had around 8500 miles when last logged. I bought the car with around 8700 miles with the understanding it had a history of sitting outdoors being neglected through time. I drove the car home over 700 miles, today the car reads 9500 miles on the odometer.

After I had the car a while with a lot of money and skin already invested, I became suspect because of how much dirt and also where the dirt accumulated, so I spent the money and ran a Carfax report on the car. That report indicated an odometer roll-back of 105,000 miles. Needless to say, my heart sank. I then contacted eBay for buyer protection, but they threw me to the curb because the car was older than 9 years old. So I'm just stuck with a bad investment, hence the name "Money-Pit"

So why the odometer discrepancy? I imagine the instrument cluster was replaced, possibly from my suspect run-away alternator. If so, could a different IP influence the situation here? Is there software stored in the IP that conflicts with software stored elsewhere in the car? Do I need to reload all software from scratch? Is that even possible?

Because we seem to have exhausted all other avenues, I am now thinking that I need to get GM involved, or a really good mechanic who has the ability to reload software.
 

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The odometer reading lives in the BCM, so changing the IPC isn't a problem. Clearly the BCM was replaced.

There is a procedure in the manual for replacing a BCM. From what I have interpreted, a new BCM can have the mileage programmed, but a used one cannot. This would be specifically to prevent someone from simply reprogramming their BCM to roll back the odometer.

The setup procedure specifies the information that has to be programmed into the BCM, and key to this problem is all of the RPO codes, which is where the absence of the AU3 RPO creates a problem. If the previous owner had the BCM reprogrammed, did not know about the "missing" RPO code, and wasn't worried about the function since he had n fobs, the power door lock function would not have been set up.

The question here is whether the RPO code can be loaded with a Tech2 alone, or whether it requires acces to GM's TIS2WEB. The first can be free if you have access to the right people, while the second is nearly always going to cost money.
 

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JohnWR,
Thank you for your insight. I can now talk smarter with my mechanic to determine if he is equipped to help. Or if he can't, then go straight to my area Chevy dealer.
 
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