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56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Tomorrow is the day... I finally am caving and replacing the HPFP. I probably should have listened and done it from the get go :).

For what its worth, ZZP is a great site. I got the HPFP from eBay, but I got the Low pressure fuel feed, gasket, fuel pump roller and ARP HPFP bolts. I ordered the High pressure fuel line from Amazon (GM 12615401) GM Genuine Parts 12615401 Intermediate Fuel Feed Pipe: Automotive.

Its probably not strictly necessary to replace the low pressure feed and fuel pump roller, but this car has 140,000+ miles and I have a low threshold for "while I am in there". The low pressure feed, ARP bolts, roller and gasket from ZZP were only about $60 total, so its pretty cheap insurance. Also, the GM shop manual specs replacing the bolts, gasket and the high pressure line.

I got all the parts ready for tomorrow!

56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Well the good news is, I replaced the fuel pump/lines/gasket/bolt and it went smoothly. I followed this video:

and this post that has the GM shop manual step by step:

Couple of pieces of advice after doing it myself.
  1. Do not even try to do it without taking the cowl off. It only takes 5 minutes to take the cowl/wipers off and it makes life so much easier.
  2. You DO NOT need a tie rod end or any other type of puller to get the wipers off. Just jiggle them hard, flip them up, and they will come right off.
  3. It took A LOT longer for my car to die then in the video, which confused me that I was pulling the wrong fuse. I pulled both the #13 fuse referenced in the 2nd link and the relay that is show in the video.
    1. Start the car
    2. Pull the fuses
    3. Let it die
    4. Crank it again
    5. Crack the low pressure line
    6. Crack the high pressure line
    7. As you were

I am glad I got the new roller/gasket. My old parts were pretty nasty. The bolts I think you could take or leave. Mine looked just fine. I used rocksett instead of blue loctite because it is what I had.



The bad news is...the car still has the same problem, so the HPFP was NOT the root cause of this P2178 code. It drove great, 17psi on the onramp to the freeway. Coming back it was 9psi max and when I returned home, P2178 was again pending after having just been cleared.


Anybody have any ideas?

My intercooler has some damage... I have a new Werks one to install. Also after 140K, the downpipe/cat is likely pretty fouled and I have a new solo high flow cat and a pair of new O2 sensors to go in.

Beyond that... I am pretty stumped.

56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Finally, success!

The intercooler was bulged, crushed, and also had a nice sized hole in the bottom. I confirmed with a leaf blower that that hole was leaking badly.



Somebody must have hit something with this car at some point. I am thinking a high rolled curb or maybe one of the parking spot barricades. The skid plate and fender liner is also broken on that side.

Not to worry, new WERKS intercooler was awaiting install. I stretched my factory silicone couplings over the slightly larger fittings on the WERKS intercooler. They were still in good shape so no reason to replace them. I even used the worm drive clamps because I didn't have any T-Bolt's small enough and these have held for 13 years, they will probably hold for 13 more:


I elected to remove my bumper and I am glad I did. You would have to be a sadist to try and replace this thing with the bumper in place, and removing the bumper is easy. it only takes about 10-15 minutes. There are screws in the fender liners, on the top of the bumper, on the bottom, and there are a handful of Christmas tree fasteners. I recommend you get a puller tool for them especially for the top Christmas trees, because it is easy to damage the paint on the top of the bumper.

Because I was doing this alone, I used the box and increasing thicknesses of packing material to help me position the intercooler. As WERKS states, there are no modifications required. However, it is a PAIN to get it in that spot. It fits extremely tight and that old hard silicone was tough to get over the charge pipes.

Initial positioning:


And after a bit of jostling:


At this point it was just about on the charge pipes on both sides:



After a lot of sweat and swearing, she was finally on:


As you might have noticed, I took off one of the bumper skid plate mount/bars (drivers side). I don't recommend doing this because the nut is not captive, and its a bit of a pain to hold the nut in place with a long magnetic stick while you reattach the bar. In any case it was fine... but it did cause me some anxiety.

The WERKS part really is high quality. They use a commercial intercooler core from Vibrant Performance. I believe the end tanks are also from Vibrant and then the mount/tubing is the WERKS special sauce.

The factory skid plate and all of the plastics, mounts fit perfectly with this intercooler. I honestly don't know why anybody would bother with a different IC unless they were going crazy on modifications. This thing fits perfecly.

You can even see it peeking through (I scratched the bumper during removal because I have a new cover that is getting resprayed. The bottom of this cover was already badly damaged so I didnt care):


Test drove it for a long time today. 2178 has not come back and it really is a different car. Runs great!
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