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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Haven't seen anyone else try these on the Sky/Solstice, but took a risk based on a really excellent overview and installation video by VetOnVettes757:


After watching and reading that any C5/C6 seat would likely fit our Kappa's if you had a bracket for our platform (add $280) I felt ready to say buh-bye to the saggy drivers bottom, the loose seat back over bumps, and the lack of bolster snugness around corners where you just kind of slide around and have to brace yourself.

Still in the middle of installation, but a mock fit with 2 front slider rail bolts through existing holes on the Planted Solstice brackets, they WORK! If the seats were even half an inch bigger in any direction, they would not fit. You can run your pinky around the whole seat except for where the recline mechanism is, or the widest parts of the seat bottom. Even the top closes properly though the soft hanging fabric directly above the tulip doors does touch a bit at the top edge/corner. It appears that you end up with 4" of forward adjustability before the center tunnel recline lever hits the seat belt buckle receiver tab (yes you have to use the drivers seat in the passenger side).

They fill up the rear trim/subwoofer panel well, and don't touch anywhere except a tiny bit on the door panel and carpet on center tunnel, not too different than how factory seats are on the new C8 where I noticed the seats occlude even more than these. The carbon fiber look on the back is visible when the top is down, and looks neat, though I would have been satisfied with more of the very nice pleather material the front is covered with.

Super comfortable at least in testing, though I feel I will need to add ~1/2" spacers or some washers in between the sliders-seat bolts at front to angle the bottom front up where I like (I am 5'10, 160lbs). The bottom cushion height matches within 1/4" of factory fixed seats, don't know about the height adjustable OEM version. The rear tailbone portion is just as low as OEM so your head/helmet will be in the same area as before.

Guessing if you have a 36" waist or less and are 6'1" or shorter, it would feel perfect. These hug you way more than the OEM seats, both around the kidneys and thigh/legs. Shoulder support is actually there unlike OEM. The closest seats I can compare them to seating posture wise are the F20 BMW non M3, or the C8 Vette. Oh and bonus... The center glovebox still opens. Obviously you lose the front pockets :(

Seats with rails but no hardware:

Passenger Planted bracket:
Drivers Planted bracket:

Hardware:
Will list later, but it's about $30 in Grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts.

Tools:
T50 Torx
15mm socket
Fingernails for electrical connections

So excited. I will add more pics and better instructions when I'm done. Don't mind the sweat marks, it's hot as balls in FL in the garage. The new seat looks taller than the OEMs, but they are not. It's either the same as OEM or within 1/2" at a similar recline angle, about 35".

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How does the seat belt work with your new seats? I wonder if the seat belt would work better than stock by fishing the seat belt through that hole.

It looks like you now lack a passenger-side air bag. Or did you set things up so it goes off with nobody in the passenger seat?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How does the seat belt work with your new seats? I wonder if the seat belt would work better than stock by fishing the seat belt through that hole.

It looks like you now lack a passenger-side air bag. Or did you set things up so it goes off with nobody in the passenger seat?
One thing at a time... 1% better every day yada yada yada, haha.

No, good questions. I think the seatbelt will work better through the loop as it is right there at the same height.

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Passenger airbag/sensor. I'm probably going to pull it out of the bottom seat cushion and just apply it to the new seat bottom, only under the seat where the sliders are so I don't have to take the new ones apart. It will not activate but I think I have a passenger about 1% of the time so not too worried about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Done! But not tested as the battery is nearly dead from the doors being open for hours today. I'm hoping that if all the electrical connections are not connected, it will just assume you have your seatbelt on... Might be wishful thinking.

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Passenger Planted bracket and Passenger seat ended up fitting best as... the Passenger side. That means the recline lever is where it is on most cars and not inboard against the driveshaft tunnel.

You end up with ~6" of travel, I use it mid way due to my height. I did not have to adjust the rear view mirror (good sign).

Notes:
  • It's a good idea to remove the door sills so they don't get damaged, they have 4 clips and you can pull them straight up.
  • Check the sliders, one of my bolts to the seat was very loose.
  • Test the brackets, even though they look the same for passenger and drivers side, they may not line up exactly with the 4 anchor points. I had good luck using them as labeled.
  • The rear bracket to body nuts... made me drink wine to be able to tighten. Pull seat forward as much as possible with the two front anchor points hand tight, recline forward, and start sweating/swearing. A short stubby 15" spanner might be better to use, especially 12 point so you can use the closed end.
Tools (wine optional):
  • 13mm, 15mm, 6mm Allen, 1/4" Allen, pilot drill bit, 3/8 drill bit
Nuts/bolts/washers you will need (don't use stainless):
  • 8x M8 1.25 20mm Socket Head bolts, nuts, and washers (grade 8 or higher) to attach sliders to bracket (6mm Allen)
  • 4x M10 1.5 Flange Nuts (grade 8 or higher) for seat belt buckle and anchor. Not 100% sure this is the right thread pitch. You will reuse the 4 factory Torx bolts with shoulder
  • Various proper size washers (at least 16) and at least 4 fender washers for the seat belt stuff.
  • Get a few extra washers if you want to raise the front of the seat, I used 2 fender washers on each front anchor point, and also added one small washer to the seat/slider interface to give the seat bottom a bit more tilt up front.
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The Planted brackets need a slight modification to the 2 rear holes, I drilled a pilot hole and then a 3/8" hole to allow proper clearance for the rear slider bolts.

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Sliders attached to Planted bracket with socket head nuts and bolts/washers. I did not use a lock washer on the top side as they are too big for the slider channel.
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Seat belt attached. I actually had to move the washer and place it inboard (pic is outboard from the anchor point), there is almost no clearance between carpet/tunnel and seat and the washer pushes the factory Torx head too far into the carpet. This part is stationary so it's ok.
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Seatbelt fished through seat and anchored with factory bolt and home depot grade 8 nut/washer. It should clear the recline lever when you tighten it. I used another washer to make sure it could still rotate easily. Note the towel to protect the plastic trim, and removed door sill.
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Passenger side done as well:
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How it looks from the rear:
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Headliner/Top (a little rubbing at certain positions but barely noticeable).
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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, almost forgot. Noticed the height adjustment toggle switch on the drivers seat for the first time. That would have solved half the issues the OEM seats were giving me. Oh well, these feel better regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Looks like one has to either remove the original sensor and put weight on it (but the passenger seat is in really nice shape so I don't want to tear into it), or buy this bypass
I'll probably get the bypass for $90. Passenger airbag is usually deactivated unless over 60lbs is on the seat (PPS) but this bypass will keep it on. PPS is there so baby carriers and young kids don't get smashed by an airbag. I'm never taking babies or kids under 60lbs in my car so not worried if its always active.

Seats are way better. Not perfect but way better, some mixed pros and cons.
  • They are hot (like they don't breathe). This other design appears to be the same overall style, build, and dimensions but might be a bit more breathable with the perforated material;
  • Amazon.com: OKLEAD Racing Seats PVC Leather Sports Style Reclinable Bucket Seat with Slider, Universal (Set of 2): Automotive
  • The back flexes a bit but is not loose like my OEM drivers seat. Flex kind of feels good as it provides a bit of feedback on what the car is doing and provides a bit of comfort vs a fixed bucket. Lets hope it doesn't get loose over time.
  • You sit a tiny bit higher but that is also good, better visibility, it's what some of the issue was.
  • The center glovebox opens fully but corners just slightly rub on both seats unless they are all the way back. Not big deal, I knew it may be a problem and should not affect the seat or hinged door.
  • Seatbelt connection didn't chime all the way to work - Yay! If you unplug the (edit: electrical) connectors as they are on the new seats, it assumes you have your belt on. I just zip tied them to the planted bracket.
  • Front thigh bolster needs to come up about 1/2" for it to feel like I want (drivers side at least). I may take them out once more and get a longer socket head bolt and washers or a longer bushing for the front 2 mount points.
  • More room for storage behind the seat for my height (5'10") since the seats are not as bulky
  • No front pockets, I didn't think I would miss them but now need something to hold wallet or phone etc.
  • Stock seats were 45lbs each, these are 39 with brackets.
  • The material/foam appears to be more dense and more overall material, as the interior is a bit quieter.
  • Sliders are dual lock, and are smooth and easy to use.
Huge difference in how the car feels to drive.

No sloppy movements you constantly, subconsciously, have to keep micro correcting and compensating for. I wasn't even aware I was doing it. Like for example, low speed parking lot driving especially with speed bumps and ruts, it didn't accelerate smoothly, and at times you got this throttle/engine brake lugging. Now I realize that was entirely caused by slight angle changes to your feet; accelerator pedal and also clutch pedal from the seat bottom/back shifting and bobbling around. Braking is slightly more precise and confident. That same concept applies to the drivers visual view where your limbic system sensory inputs and visuals are in sync, at a rate and correlation your brain can handle. You feel more situationally aware and can actually see out the back right side blind spot through the window better. Objects in the rear view mirror feel more accurate as to where they actually are and will be in the next few moments (again, since you aren't moving uncontrollably but more in relation to the actual expected movements of the car). Finally, more substantial construction seat bolsters lessen random changes to side to side arm and steering wheel angles. You can just drive through an S curve or even around an object on the road confidently and not have to over compensate for your body shifting around. Less cognitive load, more enjoyable driving. Unexpectedly I feel this is a bigger change than any back bone brace or probeam, and feels like a much newer car driving wise. My wife would barely drive the car before but now says it's not as bad. She had some of the same subjective opinions without hearing any of mine first.

I had really wanted these RRX recliners but Corbeau said they wouldn't fit a C5 or C6 due to the extra width of the recline adjuster. All other dimensions are practically the same as the Amazon seats though the kidney bolsters are a tiny bit wider. There might be just enough room in our cars, as the plastic trim has a dished area where it would go that the Corvette does not have. RRX Still very happy so far, will update if they fall apart, or you all have any questions.
 

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Am I reading correctly that you cannot use the seat belt?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Am I reading correctly that you cannot use the seat belt?
Oh, you can and should always use the seatbelt. In fact they retract better, and feel better on your shoulder and don't get lost in the nether behind the OEM seat during egress.

What I was highlighting was you don't have to connect the seat belt buckle electrically. If you don't connect them electrically, the DIC / BCM thinks they are buckled and doesn't chime at you all the way to work. Makes the install a bit easier.
 

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Oh, you can and should always use the seatbelt. ......
I know that, I wasn't sure if you did. Clearly I misunderstood your description when you said that it assumes you have the seat belt on.
 
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