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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi new Sky owner, bought an 07 base a few weeks ago 98k miles, manual, seems to only have the standard equipment. It has a clean title but is in pretty rough shape. Was looking at a NB Miata but they are so overpriced these days and with the Sky you get so much more.

So far had the oil changed, wash and wax, replace wipers and replaced broken off digital antenna. List of issues... cracked bumper and fender, the “shade” piece on top of the instruments cluster is not attached because all the plastic holes for the metal clips to snap into are broken, passenger seat slides back and forth, won’t lock in place except for the rear most position. Driver side door pull feel like it’s about to break, kinda feels like it’s not attached to the main structure of the door, brown stains on the convertible top, broken cup holder etc... found answers to the cup holder here, but other issues I’m not sure, probably going to use double sided tape on the shade piece above the gauges.
1F422013-F3FE-4A29-A1BC-ABDCE69A24E4.jpeg
 

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Welcome from Michigan. Congratulations on your purchase. Nothing a little TLC can’t fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome from Michigan. Congratulations on your purchase. Nothing a little TLC can’t fix.
Thanks! Just realized there was a “new member” section oops. Funny you mentioned TLC because that’s what the seller said in the ad “needs a little TLC” lol. At least I got a deal on it.
 

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Thanks! Just realized there was a “new member” section oops. Funny you mentioned TLC because that’s what the seller said in the ad “needs a little TLC” lol. At least I got a deal on it.
You get what u pay for. I would have gone with the miata
 

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Don't listen to Mike...lol

Congrats. First thing I would do is change your diff fluid, engine oil, and coolant if you haven't already. I would have the oil analyzed also. With that kind of shape god only knows what all may have been neglected. Check the sticker in the glove box that has all the build codes and look for G80. This means your car has a limited slip differential (option on 2007 base models). If so, you will need to get a diff fluid with the proper additive for that or add the additive to a fluid that doesn't. Do a Google search for Sky LSD Oil to find what will work. Trans fluid should still be good. It is supposed to be good to 150k at least.

A good horse hair brush, convertible top cleaner and maybe a top color restoration dye may help the top stains.

@Hoosier GXP is a member on here that often times has those hard to find oddball parts like the gauge cluster shroud. Contact him and he may have one of those. I need one too. lol

The outside door handles are known to fail. When they do, they usually come off completely. Yours just may be loose or partially broken. They aren't hard to replace or expensive but you will need to take the inner door panels off. Again, a search for Sky door handle broke will give more info.

The seat locking issue...no idea. May just need cleaning or oiling but would need to take the seat out and the rails off to see what is up with them.

Hope this helps and welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't listen to Mike...lol

Congrats. First thing I would do is change your diff fluid, engine oil, and coolant if you haven't already. I would have the oil analyzed also. With that kind of shape god only knows what all may have been neglected. Check the sticker in the glove box that has all the build codes and look for G80. This means your car has a limited slip differential (option on 2007 base models). If so, you will need to get a diff fluid with the proper additive for that or add the additive to a fluid that doesn't. Do a Google search for Sky LSD Oil to find what will work. Trans fluid should still be good. It is supposed to be good to 150k at least.

A good horse hair brush, convertible top cleaner and maybe a top color restoration dye may help the top stains.

@Hoosier GXP is a member on here that often times has those hard to find oddball parts like the gauge cluster shroud. Contact him and he may have one of those. I need one too. lol

The outside door handles are known to fail. When they do, they usually come off completely. Yours just may be loose or partially broken. They aren't hard to replace or expensive but you will need to take the inner door panels off. Again, a search for Sky door handle broke will give more info.

The seat locking issue...no idea. May just need cleaning or oiling but would need to take the seat out and the rails off to see what is up with them.

Hope this helps and welcome.
Thanks! Oil change already done with synthetic of course, I'll have to check on the differential fluid and which diff I have. My gauge cluster shroud is fine but the holes that it clips on to on the dash are all broken :( probably just going to use some good 3m double sided mounting tape. My outside door handles are fine(although I can tell the passenger side was replaced recently because it still has the protective film on it) it's the inside driver door pull, the part you grab to close the door, it feels loose. Thanks again for the tips, I'm having a lot of fun trying to bring the car to it former glory lol
 

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Ahhhh...inner door handle you will have to take the door panel off and see if anything is broken or missing. Want to say those can be removed so it could be a loose or missing screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You get what u pay for. I would have gone with the miata
for the same amount of money I would be getting a NB Miata like a 1999 or 2000, and NB Miata's were basically facelifted NA Miatas which was designed in the 80's. The Sky is way more modern and much more substantial of a car and I think it looks a lot much nicer. I know it's probably not going to be as trouble free or have as much finesse as a Miata but that's ok, I like to be a little different. By the way I've had 2 Miatas and will still recommend them to people but it was time to try something new.
 

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For the cover over the guages, I took off the spring clips and flipped them so the springy part was facing outside, not inside. Seems to hold tight now, and less likely to break off any of the other dash pieces as it is "more solid" in the outer dimension where they lock in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For the cover over the guages, I took off the spring clips and flipped them so the springy part was facing outside, not inside. Seems to hold tight now, and less likely to break off any of the other dash pieces as it is "more solid" in the outer dimension where they lock in.
sounds like a genius idea!!! I try it thanks!
 

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Welcome to the forum & ownership club of smiles.
98k little rough- needs some TCL.
Cosmetic issues aside- Robo is right here- the diff fluid should be look into soon.
At 98k I wouldn't hesitate on any fluid change including your trans & coolant first.
Brakes & tires conditions? Battery? WP history or lack thereof?
Cracked fender will be a challenge.
Brown stains on the roof- here hold my coffee or not. Cats love our top just say'n.
Cup holder, door handles, shade piece for instrument cluster- quality pieces of the Kappa.
The passenger seat not locking in place- remove and inspect the mechanics.


Was looking at a NB Miata "but" they are so overpriced these days.....
AND- with the Sky you get so much more. Yes you do very much so.

It isn't just a Sky.. IT is an adventure to the horizon and smiles on you face.

LAC

* I went for my first vaccine shot yesterday- mid day medical center next door
to our local hospital. As I was driving out- the lunch crowd was out and about.
Nurses, staff members, with their lunch's in hand. Groups of 5-6 walking in the
nice weather. One of these women's head snapped around as I drove past.
She then walked into.. her co-workers back! I think she left a brown stain on
her hospital shirt- just say'n. I was entertained with my sore shoulder where the
injection went in as I drove home.
 

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Hi Stan,

I have a warning for you. Try to avoid catching the SKY21 virus. I caught the SKY20 virus with our 2007 Base model which had 120,000 miles when purchased. I spent $4700 for our Sky, $6500 on Sky-specific parts, $500 on mechanic fees, and countless hours of my time. I kept track of every purchase on an excel spread sheet which was both a good and bad idea.

If you live within driving distance from Portland, Indiana, I strongly advise to go through your Sky very thoroughly, make a very detailed list, and visit HoosierGXP there. He will set you up with all you need regarding parts that are no longer available through GM or knock-offs. Our Sky would have never turned out nice if not for his help in securing so many challenging and otherwise overly-expensive items like the convertible top for example. My Sky was also missing some specialty hardware that only HoosierGXP had available. He strips Skys as a profitable hobby which includes placing unique hardware in bins, trays, and hardware drawers. He set me up with many such "little things" which helped restore my Sky back to "factory original".

Many Sky-specific parts are still available through GM, and eBay as NOS (New-Old-Stock) but everything has it's price. Be mindful that many used parts are being sold for more than new ones. Your local GM dealer and GM on-line part stores can sometimes be cheaper. Some GM dealers will provide a 25% discount upon request, especially when buying multiple items. Don't just assume that buying "used" is a lot more affordable than "new".

Restoration costs add up quickly, so keep track of your spending and be very diligent in your on-line shopping.
 

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Congratulations on your purchase. there is a lot of lessons learned on this and the Solstice forum that can be helpful. here is some

1 Lubricate the sliding portion of top mechanism over the doors to preclude pinching.- there are two plastic tabs that are screw mounted at the hinge point over the center of the side windows. If it is broken or missing, then your top will eventually be damaged. They are available if you need them. Check them every time you lubricate this area. Its rubber on rubber at the joint and if not lubricated will cause damage.
2 Visually inspect the plastic slide plate over the doors for tightness and wear.
3 Check operation of the roof latch- There is a mounting bolt in the center under a pop out cover that you can access to tighten the handle if needed.
4 Visually inspect the windshield to top gasket. Looking for tears, holes etc. This gasket is very difficult to find as are the rest of the rubber. Make sure you treat it regularly with preservative and it will last as long as you take care of it.
5 Check operation of buttress latches, lubricate as necessary. The buttress cable ends are plastic retainers that can fail. Recommend you carry a tool designed to manually release the buttresses. See buttress fail threads here and on Sol forum for more info. Consider getting a couple of spare cable retainers just in case of need.
6 The side windows are adjustable for height, lean in, and fore/aft angle. The back top corner is infamous for coming into contact with the canvas top and damaging it. This happened to me after ten years so it is something to keep an eye on as long as you own the car.
7 Check tightness of top when up and locked. Adjust as necessary (left and right) There are two screw stops with rubber bumpers in the trunk on the forward wall that are accessable when the top is stowed in the trunk. Screw out to tighten the top as it ages and stretches..
8 Pull the center console and check for cracks. With the hand brake in the UP position, pull on the rear of the center console cover and it will lift up and rotate forward. There are clips on the front and two tabs at the front corners. Take care. Inspect the bottom of the console cover for cracking. Either reinforce this area of the cover or add padding under the cover to prevent it deforming and cracking further.
9 Cycle both cupholders and check operation. Lube as necessary. The rear cupholders often need cleaning and lubrication to return them to full operation. The front if you use it can be upgraded to a metal unit that is a very good piece of kit.
10 Check operation of dash trunk release button. If the dash has been removed, frequently the trunk release button is damaged (pulled apart) Take a look at threads that address this issue before you have a problem
11 Pull the right carpet front and visually inspect BCM area. In the right foot well under the forward carpet is the BCM. Its critical to the operation of the car. Take a look. See the fuses located there and make sure its clean and has no obvious issues. Clean if necessary. Don't let water get into that area!
12 Cycle driver's seat height adjustment to verify operation. Lube as necessary. Left front corner of the drivers seat bottom is the switch. Check to see if you have one and cycle it occasionally or it will go to sleep on you when you need it.
13 Check trunk operation. Verify condition of torsion bars. The trunk lid often has issues opening on its own. If yours pops open all the way, then you are good to go. If not, check for tension on both the left and the right torsion bars. They are at the rear of the trunk in the drain hole. You can see the ends of each where they mate with the hinge mechanism. If one has failed, there are threads on how to replace them and its not difficult, just takes time. There is a "spring mod" that adds one or two small springs to help open the trunk that is also described here and on the Sol forum. Finally there is a spring lift made by a German company for the Opal GT which is the Sky sister. They are highly functional but not cheap. I have them on both our Kappas and really like them.
14 Visually inspect trunk pressure release valve left rear trunk. Behind the right rear corner of the trunk liner is the pressure relief valve. It allows air to flow out of the trunk when closing the lid. If it becomes clogged, it can make closing the trunk difficult. NEVER close the trunk by pushing on the HUMPS. They WILL DENT>
15 Visually inspect flap activation cables for operation and condition. Lube as necessary. The flaps are a key element of the folding top and are readily damaged if they are not opened as the top goes up. Give them a visual inspection on a regular basis, pull them open when the top is in the trunk and take a look at the condition of the plastic retainer on the end of the cable and at the cable itself. Drop a little cable lube in there occasionally. I have seen cables fail due to lack of lubrication. It can also cause the plastic retainer to fail. Consider getting a couple of spare retainers.
16 Visually inspect trunk cable assembly, connectors etc. The cable assembly is mounted on the front wall of the trunk. It includes the electro mechanical devices that activate the trunk release, and the buttress release. It needs to be clean, tight else you will have serious issues with the trunk. :)
17 Visually inspect and lube as necessary buttress release cable This is a single cable from the cable assembly, through the big rubber tube in the trunk lid and then goes to a Y cable that activates each of the buttresses. Its worth looking at and lubing at lease annually. With a high mileage car, sooner is better than later.
18 Check trunk light for operations. Right rear corner of the trunk liner is the light.
19 Check trunk drain area. Clean as necessary. There are two drains on the front corners of the trunk where the top dumps water and the rear area behind the trunk liner is also a drain. The front drains dump through two holes in the floor of the trunk and if they are not properly mounted it can be an issue. The rear drain dumps through a hole above the license plate so make sure that is open.
20 Verify operation of trunk forward drains, left and right. Clean as necessary
21 Verify proper operation of convertible top folding mechanism.
22 Verify condition of rear window glass and defroster
23 Check / service trunk lid hold down rubber feet. On the rear of the trunk lid at the outer edges are two rubber feet mounted to plastic stand offs. These are known to fail and fall off leaving the plastic stand offs to cut holes in the top. See Kappa Blanket threads
24 Visually inspect inner fenders for rubbing / wear inside rear wheel wells All the inner fenders crack at the mounting points. Just keep an eye on this and dont over tighten and/or add large rubber washers to spread the load.
25 Check door hinges for operation, service as necessary NEVER close the hood with the doors open. It can take the paint off the front edge of the doors.
26 Check wheel hub bolts (three per wheel) for proper torque (or if missing) A rare but known issue is the hub bolts on a few cars have come OUT of the cars and resulted in serious issues. Checking them now and annually is a good idea.
27 Visually inspect shocks for condition / leaks / operation. Shocks are rebuildable.
28 Verify condition of wheel bearing condition. Bearings are part of the hubs. Not separately replaceable.
29 Inspect condition of wheel electrical connections. Consider treating the rubber with preservative as well
30 Check break pads / disks for wear - the hand brake activates two pucks on the rear. These are known to freeze up and the hand brake will not function well or at all in some cases. pull a wheel and give yours a good inspection and clean them up. Many of us have replaced the front pads with Hawk performance pads and experienced VASTLY better braking as a result. See DDM Works.
31 Verify brake fluid level and condition- HIGHLY recommend you change the brake fluid. Every two years for DOT 4, every three years for DOT3. I use DOT 4 because of its higher temperature operating range.
32 Verify operation/ adjust parking brake (forward portion of rear calipers cable activated)
33 Visually inspect condition of all charge tube clamps.
34 Check air cleaner filter element condition
35 Inspect intercooler drain tube, check for presence of oil, water or contaminates. Check for contamination, leaves, road rash and curb damage. While you are down there, clean out the radiator as it will be full of all kinds of crap sucked up from the road. Make this an annual exercise.
36 Inspect the PCV valve for proper operation (can dump oil into the intake on turbo cars)
37 Check tightness of exhaust bolts, mounts
38 Check tightness of turbo shield. They are known to come loose
39 inspect / service battery terminals. Even the best maintained cars get corrosion at the terminals and often at the engine and chassis grounds.
40 inspect / service engine ground terminal Pull the engine cover and take a look at the ground on top of the motor. Then throw the engine cover away LOL
41 check all fluids. Verify mileage / life are within required values
42 Visually inspect the differential for leaks and condition of mounts
43 Pop open the key fobs to verify the integrity of the solder joint to the battery retainer
44 go to your local dealer and have them pull a maintenance report. lt will list every maintenance action performed at any GM dealer and list any recalls. Of note is the passenger presence detector recall that is part of the airbag system.

there is a lot more info available but this will get you started. :)
 

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And . . . lest we forget, check the bottom of the front fenders. They are probably going to be cracked. There is a single bolt that holds the bottom of the fender in position. Eventually the plastic fenders develop cracks from this hole that runs out and up the side of the fender. It will continue to grow over time until it is highly visible. This is very repairable and the sooner you get it addressed the less it will cost. Consider pulling the fenders that are cracked and taking them to your local body shop. They will repair / reinforce them in this area and they will not crack in the future.
 

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And . . . lest we forget, check the bottom of the front fenders. They are probably going to be cracked. There is a single bolt that holds the bottom of the fender in position. Eventually the plastic fenders develop cracks from this hole that runs out and up the side of the fender. It will continue to grow over time until it is highly visible. This is very repairable and the sooner you get it addressed the less it will cost. Consider pulling the fenders that are cracked and taking them to your local body shop. They will repair / reinforce them in this area and they will not crack in the future.
"Generally Speaking"

To prevent a small crack from growing larger, drill a hole at the end of the crack. This is a viable solution if the crack is not seen except from below.
115995
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Stan,

I have a warning for you. Try to avoid catching the SKY21 virus. I caught the SKY20 virus with our 2007 Base model which had 120,000 miles when purchased. I spent $4700 for our Sky, $6500 on Sky-specific parts, $500 on mechanic fees, and countless hours of my time. I kept track of every purchase on an excel spread sheet which was both a good and bad idea.

If you live within driving distance from Portland, Indiana, I strongly advise to go through your Sky very thoroughly, make a very detailed list, and visit HoosierGXP there. He will set you up with all you need regarding parts that are no longer available through GM or knock-offs. Our Sky would have never turned out nice if not for his help in securing so many challenging and otherwise overly-expensive items like the convertible top for example. My Sky was also missing some specialty hardware that only HoosierGXP had available. He strips Skys as a profitable hobby which includes placing unique hardware in bins, trays, and hardware drawers. He set me up with many such "little things" which helped restore my Sky back to "factory original".

Many Sky-specific parts are still available through GM, and eBay as NOS (New-Old-Stock) but everything has it's price. Be mindful that many used parts are being sold for more than new ones. Your local GM dealer and GM on-line part stores can sometimes be cheaper. Some GM dealers will provide a 25% discount upon request, especially when buying multiple items. Don't just assume that buying "used" is a lot more affordable than "new".

Restoration costs add up quickly, so keep track of your spending and be very diligent in your on-line shopping.
HAHA thanks for the warning, I've already ordered a few parts and still looking for more, but going to keep it reasonable. Great tip on the parts, I'm sure I'll be hitting him up at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Congratulations on your purchase. there is a lot of lessons learned on this and the Solstice forum that can be helpful. here is some

1 Lubricate the sliding portion of top mechanism over the doors to preclude pinching.- there are two plastic tabs that are screw mounted at the hinge point over the center of the side windows. If it is broken or missing, then your top will eventually be damaged. They are available if you need them. Check them every time you lubricate this area. Its rubber on rubber at the joint and if not lubricated will cause damage.
2 Visually inspect the plastic slide plate over the doors for tightness and wear.
3 Check operation of the roof latch- There is a mounting bolt in the center under a pop out cover that you can access to tighten the handle if needed.
4 Visually inspect the windshield to top gasket. Looking for tears, holes etc. This gasket is very difficult to find as are the rest of the rubber. Make sure you treat it regularly with preservative and it will last as long as you take care of it.
5 Check operation of buttress latches, lubricate as necessary. The buttress cable ends are plastic retainers that can fail. Recommend you carry a tool designed to manually release the buttresses. See buttress fail threads here and on Sol forum for more info. Consider getting a couple of spare cable retainers just in case of need.
6 The side windows are adjustable for height, lean in, and fore/aft angle. The back top corner is infamous for coming into contact with the canvas top and damaging it. This happened to me after ten years so it is something to keep an eye on as long as you own the car.
7 Check tightness of top when up and locked. Adjust as necessary (left and right) There are two screw stops with rubber bumpers in the trunk on the forward wall that are accessable when the top is stowed in the trunk. Screw out to tighten the top as it ages and stretches..
8 Pull the center console and check for cracks. With the hand brake in the UP position, pull on the rear of the center console cover and it will lift up and rotate forward. There are clips on the front and two tabs at the front corners. Take care. Inspect the bottom of the console cover for cracking. Either reinforce this area of the cover or add padding under the cover to prevent it deforming and cracking further.
9 Cycle both cupholders and check operation. Lube as necessary. The rear cupholders often need cleaning and lubrication to return them to full operation. The front if you use it can be upgraded to a metal unit that is a very good piece of kit.
10 Check operation of dash trunk release button. If the dash has been removed, frequently the trunk release button is damaged (pulled apart) Take a look at threads that address this issue before you have a problem
11 Pull the right carpet front and visually inspect BCM area. In the right foot well under the forward carpet is the BCM. Its critical to the operation of the car. Take a look. See the fuses located there and make sure its clean and has no obvious issues. Clean if necessary. Don't let water get into that area!
12 Cycle driver's seat height adjustment to verify operation. Lube as necessary. Left front corner of the drivers seat bottom is the switch. Check to see if you have one and cycle it occasionally or it will go to sleep on you when you need it.
13 Check trunk operation. Verify condition of torsion bars. The trunk lid often has issues opening on its own. If yours pops open all the way, then you are good to go. If not, check for tension on both the left and the right torsion bars. They are at the rear of the trunk in the drain hole. You can see the ends of each where they mate with the hinge mechanism. If one has failed, there are threads on how to replace them and its not difficult, just takes time. There is a "spring mod" that adds one or two small springs to help open the trunk that is also described here and on the Sol forum. Finally there is a spring lift made by a German company for the Opal GT which is the Sky sister. They are highly functional but not cheap. I have them on both our Kappas and really like them.
14 Visually inspect trunk pressure release valve left rear trunk. Behind the right rear corner of the trunk liner is the pressure relief valve. It allows air to flow out of the trunk when closing the lid. If it becomes clogged, it can make closing the trunk difficult. NEVER close the trunk by pushing on the HUMPS. They WILL DENT>
15 Visually inspect flap activation cables for operation and condition. Lube as necessary. The flaps are a key element of the folding top and are readily damaged if they are not opened as the top goes up. Give them a visual inspection on a regular basis, pull them open when the top is in the trunk and take a look at the condition of the plastic retainer on the end of the cable and at the cable itself. Drop a little cable lube in there occasionally. I have seen cables fail due to lack of lubrication. It can also cause the plastic retainer to fail. Consider getting a couple of spare retainers.
16 Visually inspect trunk cable assembly, connectors etc. The cable assembly is mounted on the front wall of the trunk. It includes the electro mechanical devices that activate the trunk release, and the buttress release. It needs to be clean, tight else you will have serious issues with the trunk. :)
17 Visually inspect and lube as necessary buttress release cable This is a single cable from the cable assembly, through the big rubber tube in the trunk lid and then goes to a Y cable that activates each of the buttresses. Its worth looking at and lubing at lease annually. With a high mileage car, sooner is better than later.
18 Check trunk light for operations. Right rear corner of the trunk liner is the light.
19 Check trunk drain area. Clean as necessary. There are two drains on the front corners of the trunk where the top dumps water and the rear area behind the trunk liner is also a drain. The front drains dump through two holes in the floor of the trunk and if they are not properly mounted it can be an issue. The rear drain dumps through a hole above the license plate so make sure that is open.
20 Verify operation of trunk forward drains, left and right. Clean as necessary
21 Verify proper operation of convertible top folding mechanism.
22 Verify condition of rear window glass and defroster
23 Check / service trunk lid hold down rubber feet. On the rear of the trunk lid at the outer edges are two rubber feet mounted to plastic stand offs. These are known to fail and fall off leaving the plastic stand offs to cut holes in the top. See Kappa Blanket threads
24 Visually inspect inner fenders for rubbing / wear inside rear wheel wells All the inner fenders crack at the mounting points. Just keep an eye on this and dont over tighten and/or add large rubber washers to spread the load.
25 Check door hinges for operation, service as necessary NEVER close the hood with the doors open. It can take the paint off the front edge of the doors.
26 Check wheel hub bolts (three per wheel) for proper torque (or if missing) A rare but known issue is the hub bolts on a few cars have come OUT of the cars and resulted in serious issues. Checking them now and annually is a good idea.
27 Visually inspect shocks for condition / leaks / operation. Shocks are rebuildable.
28 Verify condition of wheel bearing condition. Bearings are part of the hubs. Not separately replaceable.
29 Inspect condition of wheel electrical connections. Consider treating the rubber with preservative as well
30 Check break pads / disks for wear - the hand brake activates two pucks on the rear. These are known to freeze up and the hand brake will not function well or at all in some cases. pull a wheel and give yours a good inspection and clean them up. Many of us have replaced the front pads with Hawk performance pads and experienced VASTLY better braking as a result. See DDM Works.
31 Verify brake fluid level and condition- HIGHLY recommend you change the brake fluid. Every two years for DOT 4, every three years for DOT3. I use DOT 4 because of its higher temperature operating range.
32 Verify operation/ adjust parking brake (forward portion of rear calipers cable activated)
33 Visually inspect condition of all charge tube clamps.
34 Check air cleaner filter element condition
35 Inspect intercooler drain tube, check for presence of oil, water or contaminates. Check for contamination, leaves, road rash and curb damage. While you are down there, clean out the radiator as it will be full of all kinds of crap sucked up from the road. Make this an annual exercise.
36 Inspect the PCV valve for proper operation (can dump oil into the intake on turbo cars)
37 Check tightness of exhaust bolts, mounts
38 Check tightness of turbo shield. They are known to come loose
39 inspect / service battery terminals. Even the best maintained cars get corrosion at the terminals and often at the engine and chassis grounds.
40 inspect / service engine ground terminal Pull the engine cover and take a look at the ground on top of the motor. Then throw the engine cover away LOL
41 check all fluids. Verify mileage / life are within required values
42 Visually inspect the differential for leaks and condition of mounts
43 Pop open the key fobs to verify the integrity of the solder joint to the battery retainer
44 go to your local dealer and have them pull a maintenance report. lt will list every maintenance action performed at any GM dealer and list any recalls. Of note is the passenger presence detector recall that is part of the airbag system.

there is a lot more info available but this will get you started. :)
Wow!!! thanks for that! I hope you did type all that up for me but copy and pasted from a file lol. I've done a few items on there but will try to eventually check all of them. Took a nice drive this weekend with a buddy who just got a NC Miata, was loads of fun.
 
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