[Sky_Pilot]

So after a very long time I'm finally putting the new chrome insert into the grille. My question is what attaches the molding to the grille (2 to 1 in the PIC). There are posts on the back of the molding, but I don't know what attaches 2 to 1.

 

[sahein]

Grille & Components for 2007 Saturn Sky | GM Parts Online

www.gmpartsonline.net

 

[Sky_Pilot]

I seen that, but the 4 posts coming through the grille are plastic and not threaded. Hence I was thinking some type of metal clip.

 

[rjgramps]

I had mine off last year. As I recall, the plastic stems utilize these, but maybe my memory isn't right.

 

[SaturnSkyRedline2015]

That is correct. Pal nuts.

 

[JohnWR]

That is correct. Speed nuts.

Those look like PAL nuts, not speed nuts.

 

[rjgramps]

I googled "Speed Nut" and Palnut. JohnWR is correct, they are called "Palnuts"

I believe Ace Hardware sells them loose in the little drawers called their "Hillman" isle of hardware. Be sure to take your chrome ornament with you for a proper fit.

 

[steveorama]

I replaced my grille trim a few months back. A word of advice, pre-thread the posts on the back of the grille trim before install. It’s a tight squeeze once in place to battle trying to get the pal nuts to cut and thread.

 

[rjgramps]

I replaced my grille trim a few months back. A word of advice, pre-thread the posts on the back of the grille trim before install. It’s a tight squeeze once in place to battle trying to get the pal nuts to cut and thread.

Interesting input. I would have thought using a deep socket with pressure applied would work. Like Sky_Pilot, I have a new chrome piece I plan to install in the spring. I will find out if my strategy works.

 

[steveorama]

Interesting input. I would have thought using a deep socket with pressure applied would work. Like Sky_Pilot, I have a new chrome piece I plan to install in the spring. I will find out if my strategy works.

I had the same initial thought. Not enough room to put a deep socket on and apply enough pressure for the nuts to cut while mounted. I removed the trim piece and tried again on the counter and it was fairly easy.

 

[Sky_Pilot]

I had the same initial thought. Not enough room to put a deep socket on and apply enough pressure for the nuts to cut while mounted. I removed the trim piece and tried again on the counter and it was fairly easy.

Good to know, I will be trying it this week sometime, heading off to Ace today. My grille is off the car, so on the bench should be easy.

 

[mtdjohn2018]

I actual used a die from my tap and die set to precut the threads. I almost snapped off one of the posts off trying to get those pal-nuts to thread on. Those posts are pretty flimsy and can easily break.

 

[steveorama]

I actual used a die from my tap and die set to precut the threads. I almost snapped off one of the posts off trying to get those pal-nuts to thread on. Those posts are pretty flimsy and can easily break.

I actual used a die from my tap and die set to precut the threads. I almost snapped off one of the posts off trying to get those pal-nuts to thread on. Those posts are pretty flimsy and can easily break.

They are flimsy and it was very concerning when cutting the threads as I was sure they were going to snap off, luckily they didn't. The chrome film I think makes it look and sound worst than it actually was. This why I think pre-cutting the threads on a bench is for the best so you can apply equal and even pressure and you can keep a better eye on everything. One thing I would be concerned using a tap and die set is the thread size. The pal nuts are a very wide thread and not a machine thread

 

[mtdjohn2018]

I guess I should have been more explicit, I used a course thread die, not machine thread.

 

[JohnWR]

I guess I should have been more explicit, I used a course thread die, not machine thread.

Technically, the coarse thread die in a tap-and-die set is a machine thread.

A non-machine thread would be that of a wood screw, a sheet metal screw, or a Plastite screw, and as far as I know, no dies exist for those.

PAL nuts can be found in both machine and non-machine thread pitches, for use with threaded and non-threaded studs.

 

[mtdjohn2018]

Yes John you are correct. I should have said course machine thread which I used and it worked out fine.

 

[Sky_Pilot]

OK, a little follow-up.. Mine is still not on the car, I tried screwing one on and snapped the post off It was a middle post so I should be OK with the remaining 3. Also, I don't have a threading tool, so pre-threading is out of the question.

 

[steveorama]

OK, a little follow-up.. Mine is still not on the car, I tried screwing one on and snapped the post off It was a middle post so I should be OK with the remaining 3. Also, I don't have a threading tool, so pre-threading is out of the question.

You don’t need a tap and dye to pre- thread. The pal nuts are self tapping on the plastic studs. Just thread them on with a deep socket and then unscrew them, and then install on the car. Apply even and firm pressure when screwing them on to cut the threads and they shouldn't break.
You also only need about 3 or 4 full turns of the pal nuts to thread. When mounted to the car the nuts don’t thread all the way down to the base of the studs.

 

[Sky_Pilot]

You don’t need a tap and dye to pre- thread. The pal nuts are self tapping on the plastic studs. Just thread them on with a deep socket and then unscrew them, and then install on the car. Apply even and firm pressure when screwing them on to cut the threads and they shouldn't break.

That's exactly how the middle one snapped... perhaps the deep socket and a rubber mallet to tap it into place.

 

[steveorama]

That's exactly how the middle one snapped... perhaps the deep socket and a rubber mallet to tap it into place.

Yikes, what size wrench were you using? I know when I did mine I used a 3/8” wrench, but applied pressure above the socket and turned slowly. I didn’t want to twist the stud too much by leveraging at the end of the wrench handle. The first one I did was probably close to snapping as it made all kinds of terrible snap, crackles, and pops. I backed off of my pressure after that, but still remained firm so that the pressure was above the stud instead of laterally from the wrench. I also used the same pal nut to cut all as it seemed to have the best bite than the others. Good luck and I’m sorry to hear of your issue.