Saturn Sky Forum banner
1 - 20 of 63 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so, on and off I’ve been seeing temps in the 225 and 235 range
This is only when the temp selector is on hot- it is about 45 degrees outside now (fall on Long Island NY)

I ran the car all summer and no problem at all it Always stays at it’s normal at 199

I do have the heater temp selector to hot

but today it went up to 237 and then rapidly back down to 199 and stayed at 199 but when I pulled in my driveway and turned the car off (at 199) my rad fan stayed on and I waited but it never shut off
Thinking it would drain the battery j tried to reset the computer by turning the key to on and then back off but that didn’t stop the fan. I then started the car and shut it off and the fan then shut off.
What could this be ? Worried .
Thank you all
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,327 Posts
so, on and off I’ve been seeing temps in the 225 and 235 range
This is only when the temp selector is on hot- it is about 45 degrees outside now (fall on Long Island NY)

I ran the car all summer and no problem at all it Always stays at it’s normal at 199

I do have the heater temp selector to hot

but today it went up to 237 and then rapidly back down to 199 and stayed at 199 but when I pulled in my driveway and turned the car off (at 199) my rad fan stayed on and I waited but it never shut off
Thinking it would drain the battery j tried to reset the computer by turning the key to on and then back off but that didn’t stop the fan. I then started the car and shut it off and the fan then shut off.
What could this be ? Worried .
Thank you all
The temperature selector and HVAC fan control will sometimes result in a few degrees of difference in coolant temperature, but not 30+/- degrees.

My suspicion is that you have a sticking thermostat. What are you doing when the temperature spikes (stopped, cruising, speed, etc) and does the fan turn on at that time?

I suspect that you were barely over the fan running threshhold when you powered the car off the first time, but had dropped below it the second time. That is not something to worry about, in my opinion. Stay aware of it, but don't worry, as it seems normal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rjgramps

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The temperature selector and HVAC fan control will sometimes result in a few degrees of difference in coolant temperature, but not 30+/- degrees.

My suspicion is that you have a sticking thermostat. What are you doing when the temperature spikes (stopped, cruising, speed, etc) and does the fan turn on at that time?

I suspect that you were barely over the fan running threshhold when you powered the car off the first time, but had dropped below it the second time. That is not something to worry about, in my opinion. Stay aware of it, but don't worry, as it seems normal.
John, I am just driving normally to work and home when I get these temps. I am surely not driving the car hard, but rather just normally.
I still can’t understand why the fan would stay on even after the car is powered off and the key is out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,689 Posts
Where is the thermostat on these cars ?redline 2.0 engine

is it easy enough to swap out ? And then I have to see how to vacuum
Bleed the coolant
Oh Boy, now you just opened Pandora's box. "Thermostat replacement" and "coolant burping" processes are serious and detailed. I won't get into either because I have no personal experience yet. I have been only a reader to get educated.

For general maintenance, I am currently following a three-step, three-year, half-as#%@ process in changing my coolant that began last spring which avoids introducing air into the cooling system. Of coarse it's more like a 50% fluid change when adding coolant in the over-flow while the old drains out the bottom of the radiator. I'll be doing that again next spring and then again the following spring to further reduce the percentage of original coolant. Given that I drive just over 1000 miles per year, I feel it's an acceptable method to prevent air from getting into the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So on the way to work this morning )2.1 mile commute) the temps got up to 229 and the fan did shut down once I turned the car off. I can’t fathom why the fans stayed on yesterday even after the car was shut down.
hopefully the thermostat will open this afternoon on the way home .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,335 Posts
First, its normal for the fan to continue to run after shutting down the car. If the temp is above the threshold temperature, it automatically runs the fans to cool off the coolant then it should shut off. The temp on my cars is 220. If its 215 it shuts off without the fan. At 220 the fans continue to run. Generally I just let the car idle for a couple of minutes to keep the coolant flowing and dumping heat. As soon as the temp drops below 220 it shuts off without the fan continuing to run.

Do not run the heater fan on high! They are notorious for having the fan resistor overheat and melt the cable to the fan. Position 3 is generally safe.

The heater hose is physically located adjacent to the coolant temperature sensor. When you turn on the heat, the hot coolant traveling to the heater is known to also heat up the CTS. Generally this results in a "high" reading of 3 or 4 degrees. If the heater is cooking, you can safely subtract 3 f from the temperature reading. So 220 is actually 217.

250 is the high temp. The car will shut itself down if it hits what it thinks is too hot.

199 to 210 is the "normal" range. On a hot day with the AC on cruising up hill, 220 is still normal. If you start to see temps in the 230 and up then keep an eye on it.

Check the easy things first. Get under the car and inspect the radiator. They are sucking high pressure air off the ground via the air dam. This means that anything on the road gets blown up into the radiator. Check for trash, grass, anything blocking the air flow through the radiator. Often this can have a good result.

Make sure your air dam is in good condition and doing its job. Without the air dam, its very difficult to get enough air flow through the radiator.

Check the coolant chemistry. With the cars approaching 15 years age, its possible or even likely that the coolant is used up and needs to be replaced.

When you turn on the defroster it also turns on the fan as the defrost mixes AC dried air with cabin air. You can force the fan to be on earlier and potentially delay higher temps.

When you shut off a hot car, you are also stopping the coolant pump. Its always a good idea to let the car idle for a few minutes if its at or near 220 when you park it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First, its normal for the fan to continue to run after shutting down the car. If the temp is above the threshold temperature, it automatically runs the fans to cool off the coolant then it should shut off. The temp on my cars is 220. If its 215 it shuts off without the fan. At 220 the fans continue to run. Generally I just let the car idle for a couple of minutes to keep the coolant flowing and dumping heat. As soon as the temp drops below 220 it shuts off without the fan continuing to run.

Do not run the heater fan on high! They are notorious for having the fan resistor overheat and melt the cable to the fan. Position 3 is generally safe.

The heater hose is physically located adjacent to the coolant temperature sensor. When you turn on the heat, the hot coolant traveling to the heater is known to also heat up the CTS. Generally this results in a "high" reading of 3 or 4 degrees. If the heater is cooking, you can safely subtract 3 f from the temperature reading. So 220 is actually 217.

250 is the high temp. The car will shut itself down if it hits what it thinks is too hot.

199 to 210 is the "normal" range. On a hot day with the AC on cruising up hill, 220 is still normal. If you start to see temps in the 230 and up then keep an eye on it.

Check the easy things first. Get under the car and inspect the radiator. They are sucking high pressure air off the ground via the air dam. This means that anything on the road gets blown up into the radiator. Check for trash, grass, anything blocking the air flow through the radiator. Often this can have a good result.

Make sure your air dam is in good condition and doing its job. Without the air dam, its very difficult to get enough air flow through the radiator.

Check the coolant chemistry. With the cars approaching 15 years age, its possible or even likely that the coolant is used up and needs to be replaced.

When you turn on the defroster it also turns on the fan as the defrost mixes AC dried air with cabin air. You can force the fan to be on earlier and potentially delay higher temps.

When you shut off a hot car, you are also stopping the coolant pump. Its always a good idea to let the car idle for a few minutes if its at or near 220 when you park it.
Thank you- weird thing is I’m the summer with outside temps in the 90’s the car never got over 205 now that the outside temps are in the 40’s it’s going up to 235 at times (yea the temp select is on hot and during the summer it was on cold )

I was worried the battery would die if the fan never shut off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
I would swap your T-stat.

I would regularly run in the low 200s-to 210s all the time regardless of ambient temps. I changed my t-stat when I did the WP and now I'm running in the 190s consistently. Downside is IIRC you have a RL and it's the hardest t-stat to change because of the extra hoses. It's honestly fairly difficult to get the rear bolt off of the t-stat cover. There's only 2, but that one is in a weird angle and most likely the hose clamp will be in the way of getting a good grip. You have to spin the hose clamp and then you can get a better grip, but a wobble extension still helps.

This is the t-stat I used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,689 Posts
Went slowly up to 248 on the way home today and then went quickly back down to 205
It surely does seem like the thermostat is sticking. But you never know....it could be the water pump. If that was my Sky, I would start by changing the thermostat with a new ACDelco made one.

If you decide to replace your thermostat, place the old and new one together in a pot of water and heat it up to see if they open and close in unison.....or close to it anyway.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,327 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would swap your T-stat.

I would regularly run in the low 200s-to 210s all the time regardless of ambient temps. I changed my t-stat when I did the WP and now I'm running in the 190s consistently. Downside is IIRC you have a RL and it's the hardest t-stat to change because of the extra hoses. It's honestly fairly difficult to get the rear bolt off of the t-stat cover. There's only 2, but that one is in a weird angle and most likely the hose clamp will be in the way of getting a good grip. You have to spin the hose clamp and then you can get a better grip, but a wobble extension still helps.

This is the t-stat I used.
Strange Amazon says that does not fit my Saturn sky - but it’s the same number rock auto gives me so it’s on its way
 
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
Top