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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Looks like I'm having an overheating issue when not moving.

I've done some searching around the forums for overheating issues with the LNF. Found the squeeze line trick, and the burnt connector issues. Ultimately I'm short on free time and don't want to spend an entire day troubleshooting an issue that I may or may not properly identify and took it to the dealership.

The dealership says the entire fan shroud assembly needs replaced. Took their word for it but told them not to fix. (Not at their prices)

Quoted:
Labor $401
Part $505.48 (PN 19130227)

$400 in labor, and $135 extra on the part, was just too much for me to justify to remove a couple of intake pipes, the airbox, a duct, and two screws. I ended up buying the part from GMPartsDirect for $370 after shipping.


I dug up some digital manuals on the SKY and found this.

Cooling Fan and Shroud Replacement (LNF)

1. Remove the charge air cooler inlet pipe.
2. Remove the charge air cooler outlet pipe.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove the air cleaner duct.
5. Disconnect the cooling fan motor electrical connector.

*Radiator Assembly Bolt
Tighten: 25 N.m (18 lb ft)

This seems pretty straight forward, how can I possibly screw this up?!?! :cheers::lol:

Are there any other gotchas I should be aware of before starting with this procedure?

Thank you all for the help,
Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
TomatoSoup thanks for the link to the Sol forum. I read up on that and decided to cancel my order with GMPartsDirect. Since I placed it after hours I didn't lose anything on a restocking charge.

After looking at the other thread, I figured I would try the RY1532 relay for $22 from eBay.

RY1532 Fan Control Relay Module Fits Ford Crown Victoria Town Car Marquis | eBay

Marvic 1, Robotech, and KappaTurbo, thank you for the replies. I'll keep everyone posted on how it turns out.
 

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Iron Eagle, I feel your pain, as this happened to me (see my post here )

I still have the old fan controller, and the brand new one I purchased on eBay for $27. I would be happy to mail it to you (no charge) if you have not ordered the part from eBay yet, just PM your address and I will get it mailed out. Its definitely worth running a bypass on the fan controller to see if the fan runs at all, which would tell you its the fan controller. Also check your 60A fuse has not blown.

I paid $343 shipped for my replacement fan assembly. Robotech helped me to get it fitted (that's an understatement!)

Your 5 steps are definitely correct. Its a tight area to work in so have some patience but you can definitely do this yourself. Watch for the sensor on the outlet pipe. Disconnect it for safety.
Getting the fan assembly in and out required that we rotate it 90 degrees in-place to lift out as I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I replaced the fan controller module and that didn't seem to do the trick. Engine reached 223 but fan didn't kick on. Still, it was worth trying out for $25.

I checked the fuse under the hood and in the #1 fuse position is my 60A yellow fuse. It appears to be fine, but I don't have a spare to switch it out.

At this point I think I do need to replace the entire shroud assembly. Back to GMPartsDirect. :|

Thanks for the offers on the module jgassor.
 

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Do you have a battery charger you can use to supply 12V to the fan motor? (At the other side of the controller.)

If the fan doesn't turn, you know it's the motor. If it does it's something in the circuit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Hi All,

Sorry for the delay with updates.

Let me begin by saying that I ran into a few different issues along the way including dead battery, failed hood shocks, wrenches where they shouldn't be, and rain & cold working on the car outside.


The quick of it. Fan motor was dead the whole time. Got the part from GMPartsDirect, replaced it over the course of a couple days.


While I probably made this 10x harder on myself with not having the best set of tools. (I'll be buying a mechanics tool set very soon.) I had a much harder time changing out just the relay than I should have. After trying that, I realized my battery had left me stranded a twice recently and needed to buy a new battery. Changed the battery, realized I had one mangled bolt head on the bottom of the fender that I cannot get out. I was able to wiggle the batteries in and out anyways. Back to the relay, when that didn't work, I returned to GMPartsDirect for the whole Fan Assembly. FAN ASSY | Genuine GM | 19130227

Have to say that GMPartsDirect is a pretty solid/reliable outfit. Saved me a bunch of money over the dealer price on the part.

I also noticed that I had a broken breather tube connection. (metal braided line that goes to engine from intake duct)

Once I noticed the broken connection, I called up Dave at DDM. He mentioned to purchase the silicone replacement with the metal breather tube. I was about to buy just that, but realized it was perfect opportunity to upgrade my all tubes. I bought the DDMWorks LNF power package. Seemed like the perfect opportunity to buy some DDM stuff since I was taking those parts off anyways. Thanks, Dave!
LNF Power Pak by DDMWorks

After the parts all arrived I started down the process to install everything. While I was racing against the rain and darkness yesterday in DC I was just able to get the old fan assembly out. I had to wrestle with it and I lost the sun by the time I was pulling it out. Was the toughest SOB to pull out, but I realized I was hung up on the wiring harness coming across the front of the engine. Also had to disconnect the top radiator hose to really get enough clearance. I put my hood down and closed it up for the night.

This morning I get at it again at 8 AM. It was cold and I was in the shade still, really sucked. When I went to pick my hood up it was unusually difficult to raise. I think I knocked the hood out of whack when I was halfway inside the engine bay. I'm 5'3" so reaching to the front is a pain in the ass for me. Turns out my hood won't stay raised by itself now. I had to wedge a broom in the corner by the washer fluid reservoir to keep from getting chopped in half. Wonderful! :surprise:

I nearly lost my mind when I dropped my adjustable wrench down the driver side intercooler tube when taking off the front bracket that hold the charge tube exiting the intercooler. I grabbed a alligator clip with a magnet and wound some twine around it to gently fish the wrench out from my intercooler. Thank god it worked!

Fast forward, I used a little olive oil to help the tubes slide into the silicone. :lol: I didn't have any WD-40 or extra oil laying around. Hindsight, I could have used the little bit sitting on the turbo intake housing. I got all the tubes lined up properly the first time. But now to fix my hood raise issues. :|

I also got a CEL came on after I got everything put back on. I didn't disconnect the negative battery cable when putting everything back in so just had to reset the light and now everything seems to be good.

Car sounds great with the new tubes/intake.

At this point I'm rambling and ready to leave work. I'll come back and touch up my post so it may appear that I went to college at one point. lol

-Jason



P.S. I didn't have a battery charger or a volt meter but you all had the right idea to make sure I didn't jump over something simple before buying hundeds of dollars in parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
On the drive home I realize I have more work to do. Sounds like I have air bleeding out while under boost. I suspect the clamps at the intercooler hoses need adjustment. I may have to replace some as I believe I started to round off some of the bolt heads on the clamps.

:willy:
 

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Glad to see that you got it all worked out, Iron Eagle.

Did you also install the Trifecta Tune? How do ya like it?

Yogi
 

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Great story Jason! Yea, a good set of tools is worth it's weight in gold. Don't cheap out either on the important stuff. All my regular tools are Craftsman brand. They're a bit old (about 15 years! WOW time flies) so I don't know what Craftsman is like today but Napa or Snap On have some good stuff. Like you see with my tools, a good tool set will last a long time.

I still want to know how you got the battery in without being able to completely take your fender off!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did you also install the Trifecta Tune? How do ya like it?
Not yet, Yogi. I've been sandbagging on my end. I am considering whether to order the Solo HF cat while I'm at it. I have somewhat formulated a guess that the cat would give me the best bang for the buck with the DDM intake & charge pipes, and my Hahn intercooler at this point.

I still want to know how you got the battery in without being able to completely take your fender off!?
Robo, Fortunately/Unfortunately I found my fender is cracked underneath. That allowed me the wiggle room to lean the panel out enough with the last bolt still in the damaged area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
It has returned!

:frown:

On the way home today I was sitting at a light and noticed the temperature gauge light came on.

The temperature on my drive home is just above freezing. 35F

I quickly scrolled to the temperature and found it hovering at 250F! By the time I got to the temperature display traffic started to move again. At that point the temperatures started dropping quickly. By the next light my temps were back in the 180s. As I stopped momentarily at the next couple lights my temps slowly rose back towards 190, but never exceeded that again.

I have to do some more testing now that I am home, but the first thing to check would be the fuse(s), correct? I'll also check the coolant, but I didn't observe a low level warning.

Other possibilities? Bubbles in the coolant suddenly?


I also had a random P0010 last week that went away a day later and has not returned. Hopefully no other gremlins decide to start showing up since it is January and not the nicest time of year to work on your car without a garage...

The P0010 just came back. Time to replace the solenoid.

-Jason
 
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