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TexSon, I still would try and troubleshoot the stock system. If the fan isn't running when it should, there's a problem somewhere in the system. I suspect, if the module didn't fix it and fuses are good, that there is a wire broken somewhere near a plug or a plug itself is bad.
 

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TexSon, I still would try and troubleshoot the stock system. If the fan isn't running when it should, there's a problem somewhere in the system. I suspect, if the module didn't fix it and fuses are good, that there is a wire broken somewhere near a plug or a plug itself is bad.
I know it is not the fan plug as that is what I powered the fan with and some jumpers. That leaves the plug to the module. Not sure if the GM repair manual has how to test that, so I guess I'll do some looking.
 

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When you did the jumpers, did you disconnect the plug and alligator clip right to the pins or send power through the plug some other way further upstream in the harness? Just trying to get a good visual...
 

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When you did the jumpers, did you disconnect the plug and alligator clip right to the pins or send power through the plug some other way further upstream in the harness? Just trying to get a good visual...
I plugged it in directly to the fan, which is how I knew the fan was good.

However, to continue the saga. On Monday when I drove it the fan didn't come on. Tuesday I had to take my wife to the airport, which meant a bigger vehicle, and that also gave the Sky time to cool off good. So Tuesday afternoon when I got home I sprayed the fan motor with contact cleaner. Spun the fan, and then sprayed the motor again a time or two. So today I drove it to work to see what it would do but it was too dark to see the fan at work. And working on vehicles in the parking lot there is somewhat frowned on. The hottest it got on the way to work was 208, so I had to wait until I got home. It didn't over 200 on the way home, and the fan was turning when I checked. I guess I make sure and spray contact cleaner on it ever 3 or 4 weeks until the motor croaks.
 

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I plugged it in directly to the fan, which is how I knew the fan was good.

However, to continue the saga. On Monday when I drove it the fan didn't come on. Tuesday I had to take my wife to the airport, which meant a bigger vehicle, and that also gave the Sky time to cool off good. So Tuesday afternoon when I got home I sprayed the fan motor with contact cleaner. Spun the fan, and then sprayed the motor again a time or two. So today I drove it to work to see what it would do but it was too dark to see the fan at work. And working on vehicles in the parking lot there is somewhat frowned on. The hottest it got on the way to work was 208, so I had to wait until I got home. It didn't over 200 on the way home, and the fan was turning when I checked. I guess I make sure and spray contact cleaner on it ever 3 or 4 weeks until the motor croaks.
I'd be surprised if the contact cleaner can actually do any good. I'd be willing to bet that the motor is sealed to prevent rain, mud, snow, etc. from getting inside the motor and "gumming up the works" as they say. I'm not saying that the problem is not the motor, just that it would be difficult for contact cleaner to get inside the motor to do any good.

Yogi
 

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I have the same exact problem with my 2008 Red Line (overheating at idle, in traffic or at long stop light. Cools to 190 - 200 at high speed, 20mph or above). Simple & very inexpensive $17 fix (compared to buying a new fan assy at $550 & $$ labor to install it):

Buy RY-1532 Cooling Fan Control Module from Amazon for $17 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SIHIDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Remove and replace old control Module from fan (from the passenger side - You don't even have to remove the Fan Assembly, just need to be a little flexible with your hands/arms. A bit tricky, but way easier than removing the fan assembly. I did it in about 20 - 30 min.

Test it by turning on your AC, fan should be running.
 

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Actually, it's probably only the fan controller, not the fan/motor itself. You could've bought a (sub $50) controller from a Crown Vic instead (sorry :()

But still, it's a lot easier to swap the controller from your new fan assembly to your car, than the replace the whole shroud & fan. Just one screw and the wiring connector - probably 10 mins.

See: Cooling Fan Failure - GXP (Variable Speed?)

I just did this on my 2007 Turbo Sky with 48K yesterday. Unfortunately it did not solve the issue. At first the AC would cause it to come on. I drove it for a bit, the AC air got hot and the fan didn't come on. I checked the fuse and put 12 volts on the fan and it ran. The hood is up now. It hit 235 today when I parked it in the garage. I am guessing the fan we replaced a couple of years ago is the issue? It seems maybe the ECM is not trigger the controller to come on? Oh yes the Crown Vic part fits perfectly and is a very easy change.


This is the second time this has happened. The first time was a new fan, flush, thermostat and oil change as it hit 270 and I could not get to the side of the road. Luckily we checked everything and nothing seemed damaged.

I ned to look further. Is there a sensor that is in the coolant that triggers the ECM to turn this fan on? Where is that located?

Will keep reading through the forums.
 

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I just did this on my 2007 Turbo Sky with 48K yesterday. Unfortunately it did not solve the issue. At first the AC would cause it to come on. I drove it for a bit, the AC air got hot and the fan didn't come on. I checked the fuse and put 12 volts on the fan and it ran. The hood is up now. It hit 235 today when I parked it in the garage. I am guessing the fan we replaced a couple of years ago is the issue? It seems maybe the ECM is not trigger the controller to come on? Oh yes the Crown Vic part fits perfectly and is a very easy change.


This is the second time this has happened. The first time was a new fan, flush, thermostat and oil change as it hit 270 and I could not get to the side of the road. Luckily we checked everything and nothing seemed damaged.

I ned to look further. Is there a sensor that is in the coolant that triggers the ECM to turn this fan on? Where is that located?

Will keep reading through the forums.
The sensor that controls the fan is the same one that supplies data to the temperature display, so if you can see 235 on the DIC, the car knows that it is hot and should be running the fan.

If the fan runs with 12V supplied directly to it, the problem is more likely to be the controller.
 

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Thank you John,

It does run with 12 and I replaced the controller with the Crown Vic part. I pulled the fuse and let it sit. I checked the fuse to see if it was good and it was. I put it back in. Fired up the car and turned the AC on. Fan came on like it is supposed to. Earlier in the day it wouldn't turn on. The battery had been disconnected for a while. Maybe it needed to relearn. I dunno. For now with it over 100 here in Atlanta, the AC worked as it should and the temp gauge ran from 195 to 207 in traffic. I could hear the fan so that was good. I want to run it without the AC and see if it comes on as it is supposed to. Is the sensor set to turn on the fan with ought the AC at 235? That seems hot but maybe ok. I hope the new controller and running it does the trick. This car has sat for a long time in my garage. I put new Michelins on it last week as the Goodyears were ten years old.

Ace...
 

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Update on the 07 Sky Redline.

Started this morning and drove the car. Warmest it got was 205 idling and lowest moving at 65-70 185.
Left in driveway running. Temp increased to 230. No fan action.
Turned on AC. No fan action.
Turned off AC. No fan action.
Repeated that a couple of times.
Check engine finally comes on with the fan code. PO480. First time I have ever seen it.
Turned the car off.
Pulled 60 amp fuse
waited a couple of minutes
Put the 60 amp fuse back in
Fan started
Started car
Fan stayed running
Cooled to 207 sitting in the drive.
Turned on the AC
Fan stayed on.
Drove a few miles
Car temp dropped to 205
Turned off AC
Fan shuts off
Because I was moving, temp trop down to 199.
Shut car off.
Started car
Temp was 212
No fan
Turned on the AC
No fan.

It seems the fans and the controller are good. The fuse test good with a meter and obviously works. I will clean the fuse terminals. They are shiny. Anyone run into this? Maybe it's common. How to fix? Only thing I have done is a couple of years ago this happened and the fan unit was replaced along with coolant, thermostat and oil. In the past week since this occurred I replace the controller with the Crown Vic part. Nothing else. Car is bone stock.

Thanks

Ace...
 

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I am not aware of any "reset" that the controller should or even can have. There is either a problem with the controller that removing power clears, or there is a hidden problem with the fuse.
 

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I am not aware of any "reset" that the controller should or even can have. There is either a problem with the controller that removing power clears, or there is a hidden problem with the fuse.
Thank you John,

It is very odd. Just for grins I put another fuse in. It still behaves the same. This is a new controller but it is doing what the previous one did. It almost seems temperature related. When the car is cold I can turn on the AC and the fan comes on. If I have run the car for a while, park it, turn it off, start it and turn the AC on, it seems to want to turn the fan on, then it doesn't. The code comes on at that point. It may be that the fan just doesn't have it to start when hot. Probably going to spend the bucks and buy the replacement fan unit again.

Ace...
 

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I just bit the bullet and bought the $400 and change with shipping and taxes from GM Parts Direct. The Ford part was a Gates part. If the fan has as short as many discuss, it probably blew up the new Gates part.


Ace...
 

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You may have found the problem. Working cold but not hot is a pretty classic electrical/electronic problem.

Hope it works.
 
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