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Most modern sporty cars have this option in the car settings to reduce throttle lag, although it normally tweaks more settings than just throttle response.

Mike liked it and is going to test it again during trackdays. Hopefully he will follow up with another review.
Yep - my MB 400 has 4 settings that adjust throttle, suspension, steering. I try not to drive the MB just before the Sky because the acceleration in the Sky is non-existent. Still fun with the top down but needs a bit more power.
 

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Dang, Robotech. I think you just wrote a lecture for Advanced Redline Fun. I was considering doing some tweaks to the 2008 Redline I recently acquired but now I think I'll just run some engine cleaner thru the ol' girl and leave well enough alone. At 100K on the clock I'm reluctant to do much mechanical.
 

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Dang, Robotech. I think you just wrote a lecture for Advanced Redline Fun. I was considering doing some tweaks to the 2008 Redline I recently acquired but now I think I'll just run some engine cleaner thru the ol' girl and leave well enough alone. At 100K on the clock I'm reluctant to do much mechanical.
You're going to hate me but the engine cleaners aren't going to do everything they advertise in your LNF Direct Injected turbo. Since the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder, it won't touch the intake tracks or back side of the intake valves where carbon buildup is notorious in a Direct Injected engine. Basically it will help with cleaning the direct injector nozzles and that's about it.

Honestly at that mileage the biggest things to look for are the water pump leak (if it hasn't been replaced already), timing chain, shocks, and the turbo. Some have reported major engine issues around that time too but the reports are few and far between...but they are there.

I would check your timing chains first and, if the guides/tensioners are worn, replace them and the chain. If the chains wore through the plastic part of the guides, got into the metal, and you're seeing metallic flakes in the oil, do an oil change, drive it for 500 miles, and do another to see if the oil is coming out clean.

If all that is good, some simple mods shouldn't be too hard on the engine. You can do intake if you like the noise, exhaust for either sound or looks (I like many of the aftermarket tips far better than the stock tips), and a tune. You'll be very happy with that setup, have a little more power, a little better (my opinion.. @skersfan felt the intake made the bypass valve sound like a goat) sound, and a different look.

Beyond engine upgrades, most shocks go about 70K miles or so. If yours are feeling worn out (car bounces) or show signs of leaking, getting new shocks or upgrading to coil overs can be a performance upgrade too that won't hurt anything at that mileage. Anti-Sway bars, front brace, "backbone" brace and rear suspension brace upgrades can also be beneficial to handling and again, car mileage really isn't important here.

If you do a lot of hard driving in mountain roads, upgrade your brakes. At a minimum, go with better pads and, if it hasn't been done, drain and replace your brake fluid. Stainless steel lines also are helpful to the stock brakes. That will improve the stock brakes to a point where they should be far less susceptible to brake fade when pushed hard. You can go further with brake upgrades but unless you're REALLY pushing it hard for a LONG time (racetrack or hard driving on mountain roads for an extended period of time) a pad upgrade and braided lines should be more than enough to have a good, safe, brake system. Like the other suspension stuff, these kinds of upgrades are only going to make the car better with the mileage you have on it.
 

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I've got to reply to the sprint booster comments...many folks buy and use products others consider a waste of $.

I recently installed a sprint booster on my RL as I was not happy with the lazy throttle. It did exactly what I was looking for, improving the throttle response.

If you've tried it and it wasn't your cup,o tea, I get that. But dismissing it without any real expereince with it in my opinion is silly. That would be like saying the tune isn't worth it because...whatever.

Is it worth the $250 I paid? For me, yes! For others? Maybe not.
 

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I've got to reply to the sprint booster comments...many folks buy and use products others consider a waste of $.

I recently installed a sprint booster on my RL as I was not happy with the lazy throttle. It did exactly what I was looking for, improving the throttle response.

If you've tried it and it wasn't your cup,o tea, I get that. But dismissing it without any real expereince with it in my opinion is silly. That would be like saying the tune isn't worth it because...whatever.

Is it worth the $250 I paid? For me, yes! For others? Maybe not.
The issue is we have seen them and we understand what they do. Will it improve response? Sure...just as putting your foot further into the pedal will improve response...because that's what it's doing.

Now you may like the feel of having more throttle for less pedal movement and, if you do, then this works for you. Just realize that you get to full throttle quicker and past a certain point in the gas pedal travel the pedal isn't doing anything since the throttle body is already at 100% open before the pedal is.

For the average driver this affect may be fine. For those of us who push the car, we know our throttle and want the full range of it's motion. If we want more throttle response, we'll put a bigger throttle body on the car.
 

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The issue is we have seen them and we understand what they do. Will it improve response? Sure...just as putting your foot further into the pedal will improve response...because that's what it's doing.

Now you may like the feel of having more throttle for less pedal movement and, if you do, then this works for you. Just realize that you get to full throttle quicker and past a certain point in the gas pedal travel the pedal isn't doing anything since the throttle body is already at 100% open before the pedal is.

For the average driver this affect may be fine. For those of us who push the car, we know our throttle and want the full range of it's motion. If we want more throttle response, we'll put a bigger throttle body on the car.
I'm going to contradict you a little bit here and say that it doesn't actually improve throttle response at all, it only "improves" the perception of throttle response. The driver may think it is better because X pedal movement used to result in Y throttle, and now the same X results in 1.3 Y, but the result would be the same if you applied 1.3 X pedal movement. So nothing is actually "better". Well, it might be better by 0.035 seconds to WOT, but that sure isn't worth $250.
 

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I'm going to contradict you a little bit here and say that it doesn't actually improve throttle response at all, it only "improves" the perception of throttle response. The driver may think it is better because X pedal movement used to result in Y throttle, and now the same X results in 1.3 Y, but the result would be the same if you applied 1.3 X pedal movement. So nothing is actually "better". Well, it might be better by 0.035 seconds to WOT, but that sure isn't worth $250.
LOL You mean kinda like...

Will it improve response? Sure...just as putting your foot further into the pedal will improve response
I think for $250 I'll do this...

https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec/products/le5-throttle-body-adapter-plate

...then pick up a used throttle body off an LSJ for $100 or less and have something that improves throttle response for around the same price. May not be a huge improvement, but it would be an improvement.
 

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Hmmm, my performance upgrade tip is to upgrade to a Tesla Model 3 Performance version, 3.2 seconds 0-60 :grin: and cruise in the Sky in top-down weather..
 
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