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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, as a part of my maintenance the **** out of my car initiative, I decided to try plastic restore on some items. I used the $8 Maguiar's Ultimate Black bottle.

Here is immediately after application (untouched on left, application is on right):

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Here is 10 minutes after application:
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In person, I can still see a difference. It's not as pronounced after sitting, but it is still better. It claims to last week's. We'll see.
 

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Two years ago after looking at all of the plastic panels that have faded to an almost grey/white tint i set out to try and restore the original look of the finish. After trying several products I came upon a leather/vinyl dye that worked perfectly for me. I did all of my interior plastic making sure to mask off anything I didn't want black. After applying the finish I patiently waited two days to touch anything and to give it plenty of time to dry. The result was damn near perfect. It has never rubbed off and two years later they look just as good as the day I did them. I also did a through cleaning of the plastic before I applied the finish. Here is a link to the product on ebay. Leather Refinish Sofa Handbag Shoe Color Dye 4oz All Colors Leather Dye Restore | eBay
 

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Here is one of my finished door panels after recovering the insert and dying the plastic. It was literally light gray before I started!
IMG_2893.jpg
 

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I have also used back to black with fairly good results but I was looking for a solution that was a little longer lasting. When the back to black wasn't helping the door panels anymore I decided to experiment with other products out there. I'm sure there are other solutions that work just as well but this worked for me.
 

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It seems to me, the best product to restore plastics that have suffered from sun damage and superficial abrasions would be that TV advertised Wipe New product made by Rustoleum that actually micro-melts the surface of the plastic via a chemical reaction. When done, it's raw plastic like new again. It is not a product that can be cleaned off.

I have used Wipe New with great results on unpainted exterior trim like bumper covers, door ding protectors, and lower windshield shroud. I am tempted to experiment on our Sky fender liners and interior plastics. I would first try the product on a small area in an unseen location to make sure there are no surprises.

THIS SHORT VIDEO and THIS LONGER MORE DETAILED VIDEO are pros using Wipe New on interiors. If you don't like a shiny interior, then DON'T use Wipe New.
 

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Back when I had my Jeeps, this was a pretty common issue. It's why many of the black trim kits have Jeeps on their bottle, as it's a major target group for them. So it's been discussed in depth on the Jeep forums over the years. The fender flares, mirrors, bumper covers, etc. are all made of a textured black ABS plastic that just completely turns gray within a very short time from the UV light. I tired just about everything over the years, Back to black, Ultimate Black, Trim Restore, the list goes on. The best one I had used was the Forever Black dye. The other products are all just conditioners and only last a short while. Being a dye the Forever Black kit worked well and would last about a year here in the Texas sun before I would do a recoat again the following year. https://www.amazon.com/Forever-Black-Bumper-Trim-PACK/dp/B00W2D7S9O

I haven't had this issue on the Sky so I haven't tried anything yet since I haven't had the need. My wife's Explorer has a lot of body trim that has now faded being 6 years old so I'm either going to try the Forever Black or the Wipe New on it. Forever Black also makes a tire gel and a convertible top dye as well.
 

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I have some friends that show at the National SEMA event in Las Vegas. They use a special fluid that looks like Armor All, but it isn't. The stuff works incredibly well. I will try to run down what it is and post it on this site. I have used it on my cars and am very impressed with the results. I must tell you I have tried to get the information before. No answer, just bring them an empty bottle and they will fill it up. Secret syrup I guess. lol
 

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I have some friends that show at the National SEMA event in Las Vegas. They use a special fluid that looks like Armor All, but it isn't. The stuff works incredibly well. I will try to run down what it is and post it on this site. I have used it on my cars and am very impressed with the results. I must tell you I have tried to get the information before. No answer, just bring them an empty bottle and they will fill it up. Secret syrup I guess. lol
This intrigued me so very early this morning while wandering around the threads.

Hmmm- Secret Syrup Sauce, SSS new and improved formula, but wait IF you order right now we'll double your offer to our 32 oz. bottles and throw in 2 micro soft towels too, just pay a separate handing charge.

Pros never give away their secrets, it wouldn't be a secret IF everyone knew about it.
SEMA and Vegas where the whole world is on the automotive stage moment.
There are some You-Tube vids out there that can be very informative to us novices maybe even some behind the scenes look as to what we Pros do use at the SEMA shows before the crowds enter?
Many products out there on the market, some known to the consumer world and others that
are secrets to the uninformed.

Having watched a few Pro detailers do their thing with a variety of products, each one has their own pros or cons to what works for them the best, shine, durability, bang for buck, awards won... yada yada.

I too have tried many different products over the years, as an owner am I happy with the results for my money spent?
Exterior parts face certain conditions, that interior parts do not.
Rubber and plastic surfaces are different so use different products to protect them to your own personal level of satisfaction when it comes to show and shine time.

UV protection like the OP original application to the cowl flap below the windshield is prime area of concern to fading out.
Reflection glare, from the hood & windshield, baking in the sun will fade it quickly if your car sits outside. In a garage under cover UV attacks are limited to amount of time you spent
outside in the Kappa everyday. 40% to 99.9%
Once every 60 days or so, your results will vary from mine, all exterior areas, get a good coat of whatever product I happened to have in my bucket of goodies.
Interior is different, less shine and glare or stickyness factor.
Clean, darkened to showroom level, but not overly excessive.
I protect those surfaces, with a sunshade during the excessive heat months, less glare less fade. On the outside, with no garage or carport, even a car cover extra applications might be needed to achieve whatever the owner is looking for, his level of satisfaction which
varies by the owner.

Bout to go clean mine some today here.
The once over, maybe if the weather holds true to form a top down drive
is the order of the day for me. Ye Ha.
As the days get cooler shorter, less summer like I have some time before
temps become to cool for products to be applied in ideal conditions.
Below 50 degrees some products do not perform as well just say'n.
Here in my neck of the woods, I like to give some special love in October, last chance
for its looks before winter sets in.
March is like October not ideal but workable for the me after the winter to get
the ball rolling.
As the weather warms so does my attention factor to areas of concern like faded surfaces from UV attacks.
Whatever you do use, a known major product to some unknown secret syrup sauce,
it's all good.

LAC
 

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Back when I had my Jeeps, this was a pretty common issue.
Not just the outside of a Jeep, but also the interior panels scar way to easily. We own a 2006 Jeep Liberty with raw plastic fender flairs and an interior that scars up with a finger nail. As durable as Jeep are made for off-roading, Chrysler made their "skin so thin".....they are cosmetically wimpy. Adding in that our Jeep is a reliability disaster, I am not impressed with Jeep products. We've owned ours for 11 years now. We have it because it's my wife's, she loves it, it's "cute". I hate the dang thing, but love my wife, so I keep wrenching on it for her happiness.
 

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Not just the outside of a Jeep, but also the interior panels scar way to easily. We own a 2006 Jeep Liberty with raw plastic fender flairs and an interior that scars up with a finger nail. As durable as Jeep are made for off-roading, Chrysler made their "skin so thin".....they are cosmetically wimpy. Adding in that our Jeep is a reliability disaster, I am not impressed with Jeep products. We've owned ours for 11 years now. We have it because it's my wife's, she loves it, it's "cute". I hate the dang thing, but love my wife, so I keep wrenching on it for her happiness.
I can’t recall ever having any major issues other than the fading with our (3) Wranglers. We’ve only ever owned 1 other Jeep product that wasn’t a Wrangler and that was an 08 Liberty. Just about everything went wrong with it that could. The “Sky Slider” was a cool gimmick, but terribly executed. It spent too much time in the shop for warranty work so we sold it a year later. I know Jeep has done some brand updates since moving over to Fiat, but it’s still the usual build you would expect from any of the other major car brands.
 

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With care, you can apply heat to the faded plastic items to remove the white scaring from scratches etc. I've done this on the fender liners and door panels. Search youtube.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
 

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With care, you can apply heat to the faded plastic items to remove the white scaring from scratches etc. I've done this on the fender liners and door panels. Search youtube.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
I have some small scratches on the kick panel and the door panels by the speakers that I have thought about using a heat gun to remove, but I was worried it would make the plastic look shiny and would ruin the appearance.
 

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As far as the crowl is concerned - if yours has sun damage - .... Just buy a new one. A new one from gmpartsdirect costs around 75$.
 

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My detailer used a black dye of some sort... it's been 8 months and it looks really good still. So I recommend using a dye, there is a link posted in an above post.

One other thing, taking a picture of a "wet" plastic vs a dry plastic the wet will always look better. So you are better off showing us what ArmorAll vs Product X looks like in side-by-side comparison. Just saying...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My detailer used a black dye of some sort... it's been 8 months and it looks really good still. So I recommend using a dye, there is a link posted in an above post.

One other thing, taking a picture of a "wet" plastic vs a dry plastic the wet will always look better. So you are better off showing us what ArmorAll vs Product X looks like in side-by-side comparison. Just saying...
That's why I waited 10 minutes
 

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Although I'm a big fan of using the dye to restore the original plastic look and color, my experience was using it on interior plastic parts not directly exposed to the outdoor elements. It would be interesting to see how it would hold up on an exterior part like a sun damaged cowl. Mine is not as bad as squilliam's, but I think I'll give it a test with the dye and see if it stands up longer than Armorall or one of those products.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As an aside. I used Meguiar's New Car Scent Protectant to take care of the interior. It smells and looks amazing.

Here is the rear plastic 2 days after application (I can't tell the difference at night):

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