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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all
So put down my top today, following the video on YouTube, I am hearing a popping noise on the passenger side. Any guessing what it might be? What may I be doing wrong? I don’t want to break anything
 

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I wonder if the tulip door control cable has an issue of some kind. Maybe it is rusted inside and it pops when over-coming the resistance. There is a goofy spring inside it, maybe that is popping. Make sure the cable moves freely, and it is mounted properly. If the cable is questionable, new ones are sold for around $35 and you can install it yourself with patience.

Make sure your tulip doors operate properly. Any sort of repair to them is terribly expensive. My tulip doors were damaged by a previous owner. I found it best to replace the entire tulip assembly to make everything just right, both in operation and appearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone know how the convertible works? Are the tulip doors supposed to be up when you open and close the top? What do the cables do besides open the tulip doors. TIA
 

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Does anyone know how the convertible works? Are the tulip doors supposed to be up when you open and close the top? What do the cables do besides open the tulip doors. TIA
When the convertible top is fully setup, the tulip door must be fully open. As you lower the convertible top into the trunk, the tulip doors should slowly close in synchronized fashion. They don't suddenly slam shut, but rather gradually as the top is folded into the trunk.

The same applies when taking the top out from the trunk. As you slowly lift the top out from the trunk, the cables should slowly be opening the tulip doors.

The only thing the cables do is open and close the tulip doors. You need to make sure they are opening and closing in perfect harmony with the movement of the convertible top. A cable is easily adjusted by slightly bending the bracket with the "V" in it that the cable jacket spring housing snaps into.

Make sure each cable is securely snapped into it's respective "V" bracket. If the cable jacket spring portion is not snapped in, and won't snap in with force, bend the "V" ever-so slightly together to increase the "snap-in" force which prevents it from disconnecting in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The tulip doors do not move at all when I put the top up. I have to hold them open. I have looked at both tulip door the cable is still attached on both sides. Any other ideas why the cable isn’t being pulled so the tulip door open? I would think the cable should pull the top down along the weatherstripping too but it isn’t. Maybe a clue?
 

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The tulip doors do not move at all when I put the top up. I have to hold them open. I have looked at both tulip door the cable is still attached on both sides. Any other ideas why the cable isn’t being pulled so the tulip door open? I would think the cable should pull the top down along the weather stripping too but it isn’t. Maybe a clue?
The two steel cables control "ONLY" the tulip doors. From your description, it sounds like they are not connected at the other end. Check both ends of each cable.

Your pictures of the soft top are influenced only by elastic straps which in most cases have lost much of their elasticity. Just make sure the elastic straps are mounted correctly or not twisted and hung up in strange ways. A previous owner or mechanic along the way might have disconnected them for a repair of sorts, then reattached them in the wrong place or not at all.

My Sky looks like your pictures during setup. It all goes good when clicking the two buttresses to the truck lid.
 

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It's possible the cables are still attached to the tulip doors, but the plastic brackets could be damaged. What happens most often when these break is that the cables remain attached, but the brackets are no longer rigid and they flex so the cables no longer provide the appropriate connection. The plastic brackets are the weak spot in the mechanism and they break due to age and temperatures. I would double check there first.
114473


Next it's possible that the cables have come disconnected from the top assembly. The easiest way to tell is pop the top assembly drains from the trunk floor and flip them up. You should now see the top frame mounting brackets. You will see a cable with a small screw holding it in. I don't haven pictures handy at the moment, but I can grab some and share them shortly. These cables can also corrode over time and loose their tensile strength which would also cause similar problems you are experiencing.
114474

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
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Finally the next thing I would check if everything else checks out is the metal fork bracket on the top assembly that holds the cable in place to provide tension (I know that's a terrible description). These can be carefully bent up or down to accommodate the tension needed. Bend down too much and the tulip doors will stay lifted when the top is down. Bend up too much and they tulip doors won't raise in sequence with top.
114477
 

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It's possible the cables are still attached to the tulip doors, but the plastic brackets could be damaged. What happens most often when these break is that the cables remain attached, but the brackets are no longer rigid and they flex so the cables no longer provide the appropriate connection. The plastic brackets are the weak spot in the mechanism and they break due to age and temperatures. I would double check there first.
View attachment 114473

Next it's possible that the cables have come disconnected from the top assembly. The easiest way to tell is pop the top assembly drains from the trunk floor and flip them up. You should now see the top frame mounting brackets. You will see a cable with a small screw holding it in. I don't haven pictures handy at the moment, but I can grab some and share them shortly. These cables can also corrode over time and loose their tensile strength which would also cause similar problems you are experiencing.
View attachment 114474
View attachment 114475
View attachment 114476

Finally the next thing I would check if everything else checks out is the metal fork bracket on the top assembly that holds the cable in place to provide tension (I know that's a terrible description). These can be carefully bent up or down to accommodate the tension needed. Bend down too much and the tulip doors will stay lifted when the top is down. Bend up too much and they tulip doors won't raise in sequence with top.
View attachment 114477
Excellent detailed information!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When the convertible top is fully setup, the tulip door must be fully open. As you lower the convertible top into the trunk, the tulip doors should slowly close in synchronized fashion. They don't suddenly slam shut, but rather gradually as the top is folded into the trunk.

The same applies when taking the top out from the trunk. As you slowly lift the top out from the trunk, the cables should slowly be opening the tulip doors.

The only thing the cables do is open and close the tulip doors. You need to make sure they are opening and closing in perfect harmony with the movement of the convertible top. A cable is easily adjusted by slightly bending the bracket with the "V" in it that the cable jacket spring housing snaps into.

Make sure each cable is securely snapped into it's respective "V" bracket. If the cable jacket spring portion is not snapped in, and won't snap in with force, bend the "V" ever-so slightly together to increase the "snap-in" force which prevents it from disconnecting in the future.
Great information thanks so much
 

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Fantastic thanks for all the detailed photos this will be very helpful in troubleshooting
The Kappa top is an over engineering masterpiece. There are so many moving components that all have to work harmoniously or issues pop up. It’s a bear to trouble shoot for sure. I’ve been chasing small issues since swapping my top assembly this summer. I’ve tweaked what I thought needed to be tweaked, but the top still operates at 85% compared to the original IMHO. I’m sure there is something I’m missing just don’t know what.
 

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About This Specific Picture posted by Steveorama....

My Sky is outside in a stored state so I cannot confirm this. But as I recall, the cable as shown is not snapped into the bracket properly. The "V" in the bracket has a notch at "the base point" to accommodate the protrusion that is shown in this picture positioned "down and to the right" making it a "keyed" feature. If you remove the cable plastic from the bracket, you will see the notch in the bracket to accommodate that plastic feature. If you are having problems, just maybe "keying" it will help. If it's loose in the "V" after snapping it in, leave it in. Just get a pliers and squeeze the "V" tighter around it. Surprisingly the bracket does bend for a tighter grip.

As shown, the bracket is bent at 90 degrees. To adjust the cable, you simply bend it down or up to adjust when the tulip doors open and close. You don't have to bend the bracket much to notice a difference. As I recall, there should be only a very small amount of slack in the cable when the top is in the trunk, just enough to close the tulip door without tension and also without much slack.
114489
 

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About This Specific Picture posted by Steveorama....

My Sky is outside in a stored state so I cannot confirm this. But as I recall, the cable as shown is not snapped into the bracket properly. The "V" in the bracket has a notch at "the base point" to accommodate the protrusion that is shown in this picture positioned "down and to the right" making it a "keyed" feature. If you remove the cable plastic from the bracket, you will see the notch in the bracket to accommodate that plastic feature. If you are having problems, just maybe "keying" it will help. If it's loose in the "V" after snapping it in, leave it in. Just get a pliers and squeeze the "V" tighter around it. Surprisingly the bracket does bend for a tighter grip.

As shown, the bracket is bent at 90 degrees. To adjust the cable, you simply bend it down or up to adjust when the tulip doors open and close. You don't have to bend the bracket much to notice a difference. As I recall, there should be only a very small amount of slack in the cable when the top is in the trunk, just enough to close the tulip door without tension and also without much slack.
View attachment 114489
After seeing your post I took another look at my bracket. The fork shape is rounded and the cable clips right into as shown. If I turn the cable 180* the cable won't click in since that protrusion is square and doesn't clip in at all that way. Maybe there was a change from 07 to 08? As for my bracket angled so much it was the point where there was no more slack on the cable. With this degree of angle the tulip doors open in sequence with the top being raised and also close completely when the top is down. What still has me puzzled on mine, is when I raise the top the tulip doors open vertical and then it seems the top assembly arms then push it open the rest of the way. Since I never paid much attention to this prior to the top swap I can't recall if this was normal operation or not. I even compared the cable lengths from my previous top (when I still had it) to this top when I did the swap and they are identical in length so the cables are most likely not the issue.
 

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After seeing your post I took another look at my bracket. The fork shape is rounded and the cable clips right into as shown. If I turn the cable 180* the cable won't click in since that protrusion is square and doesn't clip in at all that way. Maybe there was a change from 07 to 08? As for my bracket angled so much it was the point where there was no more slack on the cable. With this degree of angle the tulip doors open in sequence with the top being raised and also close completely when the top is down. What still has me puzzled on mine, is when I raise the top the tulip doors open vertical and then it seems the top assembly arms then push it open the rest of the way. Since I never paid much attention to this prior to the top swap I can't recall if this was normal operation or not. I even compared the cable lengths from my previous top (when I still had it) to this top when I did the swap and they are identical in length so the cables are most likely not the issue.
Like I mentioned, it was "from memory". Maybe I remembered incorrectly, maybe there is a different between model years.

When lifting my top out from the trunk to set it up, my tulip doors open up fully, but then metal levers from the convertible top makes contact with them anyways, pushing on them a tad bit more but not enough to be concerned about. There are adhesive backed black pads wrapped around the metal that contacts the doors, and more pad material on the underside of each door, so it is happening "by design". My adhesive pad wraps were coming off the metal due to age so I added zip ties to each end to secure them much better.
 
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