You know, I've done a lot of reading on these for the FWD GTP I built and they were the only LSD that held up the the TQ of the high HP cars.
I haven't read a lot about their use on the Kappa and mainly wasn't interested when they were $1,000-$1,200. Now that they're $500 I'm really considering picking one up.
What are the thoughts of those out there that have them? What kind of driving do you do?
I'm thinking it'll really come in handy when I'm in a straight line and go WOT in 2nd. Right now that situation will have the tires spinning by 4,000RPMs and I'm wondering if this will keep the traction through the gear into 3rd.
I'm surprised to see Quaife diffs this cheap!
I know them to be good with the S series, or was it the ION Redline... but no idea with these Skys, could be worth it just for the price!
The biggest problem with the differential in these cars is the weak aluminum casing. If I could replace the internals, but simultaneously fit them into a stronger (even heavier) case, I'd go for it.
JonBob and the TOG GTP blew out a Quaif diff. Of course I don't know if that was because it couldn't handle the power either or because it was just JonBob...sometimes that guy had the worst luck.
But for our applications, I think they'll hold up. Let us know how it goes. For $500, you can't really go wrong.
Dropping it off in the morning to have it installed and a leak diagnosed, I'm hoping it's just the diff vent. Either way I put the extension hose and new diff vent together and will have them install it.
Phew, the leak was just the diff vent. Thankfully I already assembled the tube and new vent in anticipation of it being the problem. They'll be pulling the stock diff then inspecting the axle clips and remaining carrier bearing for wear before proceeding.
Install complete, but like everyone else that has done the install, not without running into a couple issues.
1 - Special Bearing for Quaife QDF23B Sky/Solstice - Not necessary according to the shop. It's the same size as the stock bearing other than something about a taper.
2 - It was recommended to replace the axle clips and seals while they were in there to be safe. The clips were loose and the seals were cheap enough insurance to ensure a leak free job.
3 - The passenger side carrier bearing had to be shimmed about 1/8" to make up the slop a true "Special bearing" should take care of.
4 - Because of the passenger side being 1/8" closer to the center, the axle goes 1/8" further into the carrier. While it did clip into place, it was touching the axle seal and caused a scraping/grinding sound. The shop ground down a little off the back edge of the axle and filed the axle seal a bit so the two wouldn't come into contact. It's close, but they don't come into contact anymore. See pics below:
Greg at Bairds Automotive said he'd be happy to address anyone's questions if they were considering doing this upgrade and asked me to post their contact info on here to make it easier to get in touch with him.
Project total with all parts and labor ended up at $1,435, which is usually the cost of just the diff itself.
I haven't driven that much but initial review is positive. In a straight line it takes more to get the tires loose and there's no side to side slop when they're spinning, the car stays in a straight line. It's hard to explain but it's like a magnetic connection between the rear end and the road.
The biggest improvement I found so far was getting loose around corners and shifting gears while accelerating. Again, the rear end stays planted and doesn't get squirrely. From what I noticed in the brief drive, when the tires break loose it was VERY predictable in how it responds and I feel more in control than with the stock diff.
Were you looking for more long term impressions, or did ya miss his earlier report
Also, worth noting:
QUAIFE Limited Slip Diff LSD GM Sky Pontiac Solstice CTS V6 OPEL GT w/ bearing
Buy It Now price: US $331.00
Shipping: US $18.09
Quantity: More than 10 available
Item number: 331530969640
It was down to $360 and they dropped it another $30 on the last few sold. :thumbs:
If it is the original diff that came in the car, you don't even need to look at the unit itself. All you need to do is look at the RPO list in your glove box. That's the rectangular white decal in your glove box that has all the three digit alpha-numeric codes on it. Look for code G80. That's the LSD. If you don't see G80, you have a standard diff. Well...HAD a standard diff.
Question, the rear diff of my car whines and varies with speed. From my understanding this is not uncommon, do you think this would correct this situation? The whinnig does not seem to be getting any worse it is just there.
The big difference between the Quaife and other LSDs is that if you unweight the inside rear wheel enough to actually lose traction, the Quaife ceases to drive and you spin the wheel.
Some LSDs continue to put torque through the other wheel. I have found this not to be a big issue on the track as long as I pay special attention to balancing my sway bar settings to avoid actual lift off. Don't know that you'd ever reach that point on the street (in fact shouldn't if driving sanely!) but that is why some people like Quaifes for racing and some don't.
For drag racing types who would never achieve 'lift off', this is irrelevant.
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