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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This new thread is to complete the installation of my exhaust cutout which I started here :
http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f2/electrical-cutout-location-39733/
If you can answer any one of these questions it would be greatly appreciated.

1-As you can see on the pictures, it's not that hard to understand what goes where, the valve and and switch connections are fool-proof clip-ins but it's at the other end, the black/red wires with the 3amp fuse, I'm not to sure what to do about that.

2-For the switch location, I was thinking between the traction control button and the passenger airbag light.

3-I figured out where to run the wires from the exhaust valve on the outside to the interior, now I'm having a very hard time removing the shifter housing to run the wires up to the switch location.

This is the manufacturer's installation video but I don't really understand how they connected the red/black wire to the BCM
https://racereadyperformance.com/Installation.html
 

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The easiest way to get power out of the BCM is with a fuse tap. You should be able to find one at your local auto parts store. It plugs into a fuse slot, so there are different sizes to match the different size fuses. Get a mini. It has two fuse slots and a wire pigtail. One of the fuses is for the original circuit, the other is for the pigtail. Pull the fuse, and plug the tap into the fuse slot. Put a fuse into the slot away from the BCM, but leave the other slot empty. Check for power at the pigtail. If the pigtail is dead, unplug the tap and reverse it. Once you have power at the pigtail, insert the other fuse so that the original circuit has power. You will not need the fuse that is supplied with the cutout.

Fuse slot 15 (Wiper) is only on when the ignition is on. Fuse slot 20 (Sunroof) is part of the RAP circuit, and will stay on for five minutes after the ignition is turned off or until you open a door.

The leather shifter boot is attached to the rectangular chrome trim ring. Grab the ring and pull up. It snaps into the silver shifter surround.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey thanks for the info JRinKY, gotta admit I still don't understand, not your fault, It's my first time doing this, I read your instructions over and over and this is where I'm lost.

...It has two fuse slots and a wire pigtail. One of the fuses is for the original circuit, the other is for the pigtail. Pull the fuse, and plug the tap into the fuse slot. Put a fuse into the slot away from the BCM, but leave the other slot empty. Check for power at the pigtail. If the pigtail is dead, unplug the tap and reverse it. Once you have power at the pigtail, insert the other fuse so that the original circuit has power. You will not need the fuse that is supplied with the cutout.
please don't laugh at me but eh... I don't understand this whole paragraph :( sucks!

Fuse slot 15 (Wiper) is only on when the ignition is on. Fuse slot 29 (Pwr Wndw) is part of the RAP circuit, and will stay on for five minutes after the ignition is turned off or until you open a door.
Are you telling me I should put the fuse tap in one of those two (#15 or #29)? I thought I was gonna use one of those ''empty'' marked ones like #11, #17, #18 or #22 and plug the fuse-tap in there.

The leather shifter boot is attached to the rectangular chrome trim ring. Grab the ring and pull up. It snaps into the silver shifter surround.
It's that silver shifter surround (shifter housing) I want to remove.

What's the difference between a pigtail
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/pigtail_fuse.jpg
and a fuse tap?
http://images52.fotki.com/v738/photos/5/7305/7522451/IMG_1674-vi.jpg


I know most of you understand all of this but hey, I'm really a novice... sorry :(
 

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Evy : And why is it that all the fuse-taps images I see only have one red wire, what do I do with the black one? Where do I physically plug it in the BCM?
The red wire supplies the power, and you only need one of them. The black wire is the ground. It is not connected to the BCM. It should have a ring or fork terminal on it that you can put under a screw that goes into the steel of the chassis.

As I use the term, pigtail is the red wire that comes off of the fuse tap. I like the fuse taps better than the pigtail fuses because it puts individual fuses for each circuit right at the fuse block. The pigtail fuse either requires an external fuse, or uses one fuse for both circuits.

Most of the empty fuse slots are unpowered, and there is no indication of what circuit feeds the ones that actually have power. It is easier to use what you know. If one of the empty slots has power and is in the ignition-switched circuit you can certainly use it.

The paragraph you don't understand describes how to make sure you put the tap in the correct way. If you put it in the right way, the fuses are suppled with power individually. If you put it in backwards, the added circuit is supplied through the original fuse.

To get the silver surround off you first have to remove the trim piece that has the seatbelt warning light in it. You pry that out, being careful not to scratch it. After that is out of the way the silver surround should pull up. It is held in by about 8 spring clips. I haven't had to remove mine yet, but that is what I have been told. Why can't you just fish the wires behind the surround ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why can't you just fish the wires behind the surround ?
Thanks for taking the time to explain John, I will try to make sens out of it later when I work on it.
To answer your question (why I want to take that shifter housing out) I ran the wire from the valve in the back following the 2 fuel tubing + 2 brake oil tubing then right underneath the driver's feet I popped one of those plastic caps to run the wire inside the car underneath the carpet, then still underneath the carpet I run up vertically and head under the car radio, there I will leave the connection for the switch (that I will install between the traction control button and the passenger air bag light) after doing that I run back down vertically on the passenger side all the way to the BCM.

Unless you put the switch elsewhere I don't know how else you could do this.
 

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When I installed my seat heaters I put the switches where you are planning to put yours. I was able to get the wires to the switches without removing the gearshift surround. There is a trim cover on either side that gave me enough access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok after carefully reading John's instructions over and over lol and reading the manufacturer's info also, here's what I'm gonna do :

1-unplug the 10amp fuse from circuit#15 (wipers)
2-plug the 3amp fuse in the fuse-tap (slot B)
3-plug the ground to a screw
4-plug the fuse-tap in the circuit#15 slot
5-turn the ignition of the car on
6-test the valve
7-if there's no answer flip the fuse tap 180deg
Assuming this works
8-plug the 10amp wiper fuse (slot A)
9-test the wipers

Did I forget anything?

Another step I should add before before all this is to remove the existing fuse-tap that came with the cutout, This will also help to fish the wires under the carpet.

What happens if I use the valve and the wipers at the same time?
 

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Evy : Ok after carefully reading John's instructions over and over lol and reading the manufacturer's info also, here's what I'm gonna do :

.....

Did I forget anything?
No, I think you got it right.
Another step I should add before before all this is to remove the existing fuse-tap that came with the cutout, This will also help to fish the wires under the carpet.
Good idea.
What happens if I use the valve and the wipers at the same time?
Your car will be so loud you won't be able to hear the wipers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Your car will be so loud you won't be able to hear the wipers.
hahaha good one :lol:

Hey I finally managed to fish the wires underneath the carpet and up under the radio without taking the whole shifter housing out, I simply poped the shifter's leather skirt like you first suggested and I could do the job from there.

I used a heavy gage (220v) residential electrical wire for fishing underneath the carpet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok it's all done, only one slight problem... it's not working.

But I'm having a hard time testing it correctly, I plugged the fuse tap in the #15 circuit (wipers 10amp), with only the 3amp fuse like the instructions stated, I turn on the ignition (without starting the car), and nothing happens, so I tried flipping it 180deg but I cant do that physically because there is a big 30amp fuse blocking it.

Out of curiosity I did a quick test, I added the 10amp fuse (wiper) in the second slot of the fuse tap (see step #8 in earlier post) I plugged it in and turned the ignition on and the light inside the valve switch turned on!! There you go! I thought I had it so I pressed the valve button and nothing happened, but listen to this, I tried pulling my driver's side window up and as I was pressing the window button I could here the valve opening in the back!!?? Then I heard all sorts of clicking in the engine and lights flashing in the dash board so I took the keys out and unplugged everything.

And now to make things worst the Service ESC code pops up.

Another thing I'm thinking is my car battery, when I took the car out of storage it was dead, I had to boost it to get it working, so if the battery is not keeping it's charge, that could be the problem right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tomorrow I'll take the car off the jack stands and try to start it, I'll see if it's the battery or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok I replaced the car battery and everything works perfectly, the only thing that did not work as the instructions was the testing, I had to put the 2 fuses in the fuse-tap to test the valve.

by the way, Love the sound! I will try to make a video very soon.
 

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Evy : Ok I replaced the car battery and everything works perfectly, the only thing that did not work as the instructions was the testing, I had to put the 2 fuses in the fuse-tap to test the valve.
That means that you are powering the wipers and the valve through the 10-amp wiper fuse. Not the best condition, but only a problem if the combined electrical load exceeds 10 amps.

You might consider switching to fuse 20. I am fairly certain that the fuse tap can be inserted properly there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You might consider switching to fuse 29. I am fairly certain that the fuse tap can be inserted properly there.
But that fuse is 30amp and physically much bigger, that fuse plus the 3amp fuse wont fit on the fuse tap, just look at how tight the 10amp and 3amp fuses fit already. Also it is rated for 10amp max.

Here's a question, what is the difference between an empty circuit and a spare circuit? I'm thinking circuit#20 it already has a 15amp fuse in it, all the other spares don't have any fuses in them.
 

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Evy : But that fuse is 30amp and physically much bigger, that fuse plus the 3amp fuse wont fit on the fuse tap, just look at how tight the 10amp and 3amp fuses fit already. Also it is rated for 10amp max.

Here's a question, what is the difference between an empty circuit and a spare circuit? I'm thinking circuit#20 it already has a 15amp fuse in it, all the other spares don't have any fuses in them.
Sorry. I need to stop working from memory, and proof-read my posts better. Fuse #20 is the best choice for you. In my car it is labeled "Sunroof", is part of the RAP circuit, and you can put the tap into it properly. It is the one I use for my seat heaters. This fuse is actually wired to a terminal on one of the big connectors, so you could get a terminal and do this without a tap, if you want to go to the extra trouble.

The sockets without fuses may not have a power connection, making them pretty much useless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just wanted to close out this Thread with the final result.
Took about an hour to install the button, cut the hole smaller and file it until you get to the perfect size.

By the way guys my Trifecta tune has been ordered! Graham (GT) will be installing it very soon, can't wait.
 

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Fuse slot 15 (Wiper) is only on when the ignition is on. Fuse slot 20 (Sunroof) is part of the RAP circuit, and will stay on for five minutes after the ignition is turned off or until you open a door.
Resurrecting. I added a tap on slot 20 (marked spare on my cover) for the stereo accessory. I tested it with a fluke multimeter and I see 2V whenever the key is in off, or outside the cylinder. When I turn to accy or run, it gives 12V, which is what I expect. However when I turn it off, the voltage drops back to 2V. Shouldn't I be seeing 12V still with the key in off since its RAP?
 

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Resurrecting. I added a tap on slot 20 (marked spare on my cover) for the stereo accessory. I tested it with a fluke multimeter and I see 2V whenever the key is in off, or outside the cylinder. When I turn to accy or run, it gives 12V, which is what I expect. However when I turn it off, the voltage drops back to 2V. Shouldn't I be seeing 12V still with the key in off since its RAP?
Tha RAP circuit is live for 10 minutes after key off, or until a door is opened. We're the doors closed for your test?
 
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