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I paid $650 through LKQ plus tax, delivery was free, 30 day returns and 6 month warranty. I found some salvage yards cheaper, by half for some, but nothing local. My biggest frustration in the whole deal is not seeing the part first, as I have my assumptions their "delivery" between locations may be the weak link where other wise perfect tops get damaged.
I purchased a complete top on fleebey from Florida. It was in perfect shape as described and in the pictures. The company said they had another company package and ship the item to me. When it arrived and I opened the box, The top over-flexed and it ripped thru the cloth and left a big hole on both sides. FWIW, the seller tried to get me to pay half but Fleebey said complete refund!!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I purchased a complete top on fleebey from Florida. It was in perfect shape as described and in the pictures. The company said they had another company package and ship the item to me. When it arrived and I opened the box, The top over-flexed and it ripped thru the cloth and left a big hole on both sides. FWIW, the seller tried to get me to pay half but Fleebey said complete refund!!
That's why I'm happy I decided to go through LKQ. I have learned they stand behind their refund and warranty policy which is a rarity in the salvage world. I'm sure if the top had been from my local facility I wouldn't have had any issues, but since they shipped it from another I'm sure that is what caused the problem. And my understanding when they say shipped what they mean is they throw a bunch of parts in the back of one of their box trucks and how it's handled varies by the driver and the loader/unloader. I bet they tossed a few CV joints on the top because they "still had room". Fingers crossed they do a better job this time. I guess I'll just keep sending them back and ordering new ones until they get the clue it's costing them money.
 

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I hope you specified with LKQ a Plan-B convertible top with the mating windshield gasket. I don't know when the change occurred from Plan-A to Plan-B, but Plan-B is the better design. My 2007 Sky originally had a Plan-A, now a Plan-B. I was able to compare the differences and understand why Saturn changed it because it is a little better fitting with less lead-in fussing, and even a bit more robust.

If LKQ shipped a Plan-A but your Sky has a Plan-B mating windshield gasket, then hopefully the bad black top you still have has Plan-B gaskets. If not, I can help. Just email me direct. As I recall, you sold your original tan top. It might have been wise to hang onto it until your LKQ top is installed and fitting properly.

Between Plan-A & B, there is also a difference in the rubber trays located on each end of the tulip, right behind the two main doors of the car. I have Plan-A versions available, though they are weathered and I think one tray feature might not be in the best shape.

Another thing to be mindful of are those huge washers that go behind each mounting feature for the 6 mounting nuts. My original Plan-A top had no washers. My Plan-B had one for each nut on the donor car so I grabbed them and used them on my Sky.

One more tip. Be sure to lift the top with strength as you tighten the nuts. If you don't, the tulip doors will see more stress than necessary. That 1/4" extra height makes a huge difference. The rubber side trays also benefit.

MAKE SURE the tulip door cables travel freely through their cable jackets. I recommend adding a little lubricant in the jackets. Also, the jackets snap into a black prong. Using a huge pliers, bend the prongs so the cable jackets snap in tightly.

Be mindful of all the levers of the top and their relationship with the tulip doors. I added large wrapping felt held with wire ties on one lever on each side because I thought it threatened the tulip doors, just too close for my comfort.

Changing tops and top designs has a lot of dynamics going on....washers versus no washers, lift up while tightening, rubber side tray changes, windshield gasket changes, lead-in top gaskets, aligning the flip-up butresses, felt, lubricating cables, tightening cable housing attachment points, it had me spinning.

Money Pit has been a good teacher. I really can't complain because of the car's transformation from an old jalopy into a beautiful Sky....quite rewarding, but it came at a price (and time) hence the name "Money Pit". And it ain't over yet as I want to install new shocks, brakes, and change all fluids. But that's typical wear & tear stuff needed at 120,000 miles, much easier for me to accept.

The best part of this is that my wife loves going out for rides together in our Sky with the top down. We jointly feel there is something special about rescuing an eagle with a broken wing, do the right doctoring, then releasing it back into the wild.
 

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I put a new top on my car and almost none of that occurred. Removed the bolts from the factory top, with a few friends lifted it out. it was donated to a friend who had a really bad top as the factory top was in good condition. Lifted the new top, set it onto the mounting bolts. lined it up and tightened. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I hope you specified with LKQ a Plan-B convertible top with the mating windshield gasket. I don't know when the change occurred from Plan-A to Plan-B, but Plan-B is the better design. My 2007 Sky originally had a Plan-A, now a Plan-B. I was able to compare the differences and understand why Saturn changed it because it is a little better fitting with less lead-in fussing, and even a bit more robust.

If LKQ shipped a Plan-A but your Sky has a Plan-B mating windshield gasket, then hopefully the bad black top you still have has Plan-B gaskets. If not, I can help. Just email me direct. As I recall, you sold your original tan top. It might have been wise to hang onto it until your LKQ top is installed and fitting properly.

Between Plan-A & B, there is also a difference in the rubber trays located on each end of the tulip, right behind the two main doors of the car. I have Plan-A versions available, though they are weathered and I think one tray feature might not be in the best shape.

Another thing to be mindful of are those huge washers that go behind each mounting feature for the 6 mounting nuts. My original Plan-A top had no washers. My Plan-B had one for each nut on the donor car so I grabbed them and used them on my Sky.

One more tip. Be sure to lift the top with strength as you tighten the nuts. If you don't, the tulip doors will see more stress than necessary. That 1/4" extra height makes a huge difference. The rubber side trays also benefit.

MAKE SURE the tulip door cables travel freely through their cable jackets. I recommend adding a little lubricant in the jackets. Also, the jackets snap into a black prong. Using a huge pliers, bend the prongs so the cable jackets snap in tightly.

Be mindful of all the levers of the top and their relationship with the tulip doors. I added large wrapping felt held with wire ties on one lever on each side because I thought it threatened the tulip doors, just too close for my comfort.

Changing tops and top designs has a lot of dynamics going on....washers versus no washers, lift up while tightening, rubber side tray changes, windshield gasket changes, lead-in top gaskets, aligning the flip-up butresses, felt, lubricating cables, tightening cable housing attachment points, it had me spinning.

Money Pit has been a good teacher. I really can't complain because of the car's transformation from an old jalopy into a beautiful Sky....quite rewarding, but it came at a price (and time) hence the name "Money Pit". And it ain't over yet as I want to install new shocks, brakes, and change all fluids. But that's typical wear & tear stuff needed at 120,000 miles, much easier for me to accept.

The best part of this is that my wife loves going out for rides together in our Sky with the top down. We jointly feel there is something special about rescuing an eagle with a broken wing, do the right doctoring, then releasing it back into the wild.
Thanks RJ, as I have a 2008, I was conscious of the two tops and this was considered before my search, but I doubt I could effectively describe the differences between the two tops and have LKQ not only understand, but confirm and give a [email protected] To mitigate this risk I confirmed all donor vehicles have been low mileage 2008's. Assuming they are the original tops to the cars, I would assume they are Plan B. Good news is I have not yet sold my tan top, but I did sell the other black top. I guess I got lucky with the first top I installed as install was relatively painless and worked as it should, it just wasn't the condition I had wanted. The second black top was deceiving as it looked perfect, but did not install correctly and the frame appeared to have been bowed. I'm still waiting to hear back on the third top which was supposed to be available for pickup today, but have not yet heard back as of this post. Thanks for the tips and I agree with both the cables and the assembly levers advise as I have now dealt with both and I am aware. Worst comes to worst I can always toss the tan top back on and just live with it, but I really do prefer the black top on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I put a new top on my car and almost none of that occurred. Removed the bolts from the factory top, with a few friends lifted it out. it was donated to a friend who had a really bad top as the factory top was in good condition. Lifted the new top, set it onto the mounting bolts. lined it up and tightened. Done.
This was my experience with the first top as well, had it not been a test top and in better condition it would still be on the car. Having this experience let me know pretty quick that the second top was not up to par, as it's install proved to be much more difficult as things did not line up as they should. So, I'm glad I had the experience with the first top to understand how things should work so I didn't waste time trying to figure out if it was user error or not.
 

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In the "For What Its Worth" category: The Plan A top on my 2007 is wearing much better than the Plan B top on my 2008.
 

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In the "For What Its Worth" category: The Plan A top on my 2007 is wearing much better than the Plan B top on my 2008.
I wish my early 2007 Sky read that memo. But to be honest, my original top had multiple issues, not just wear and tear, but also owner mishandling.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well my frustrations with LKQ continue. After being told last Thusday that they would have the top in as soon as that Friday, if not it would be Monday, I called to check in this afternoon. They seemed surprised I called and then explained that the origin location had not picked the part yet (obviously no one had followed up) and it would now be NLT than this Wednesday for it to arrive. The Sky is sitting comfortably in the garage and is not my primary vehicle so it's a minor annoyance. They then proceeded to re-question what was my problem with the previous top as the warehouse made a note in the system that the top was still banded to the pallet and did not look like I had attempted to install it. I explained I did install the top, but the frame was warped, and that I removed and then re-banded the top to the pallet to transport. Based on everything to date I'm starting to wonder if I should just take a day off and make the trip and personally pull the part myself.
 

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Some months ago, I drove 4 hours one way to Hoosier GXP's place to buy a very nice black Plan-B convertible top and lots of other great condition Sky stuff. My Jeep Liberty was packed to the ceiling & front passenger seat, even encroached on my driver space, a trip surely worth taking. He told me then that he no longer ships convertible tops because they never survive the journey.

If you do travel to the donor car, make a list of everything imperfect or missing in your Sky, then see if the donor car has better. It helps to make the journey less painful.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Some months ago, I drove 4 hours one way to Hoosier GXP's place to buy a very nice black Plan-B convertible top and lots of other great condition Sky stuff. My Jeep Liberty was packed to the ceiling & front passenger seat, even encroached on my driver space, a trip surely worth taking. He told me then that he no longer ships convertible tops because they never survive the journey.

If you do travel to the donor car, make a list of everything imperfect or missing in your Sky, then see if the donor car has better. It helps to make the journey less painful.
I’m still hopeful this top will arrive unscathed, LKQ is transporting it themselves via their own trucks instead of courier. So that notches them slightly higher in handling, but not much. As I stated before I wish I was closer to Hoosier, his reputation seems to be top shelf and reputations in business are very important to me.

Luckily, I don’t have many parts left needed to be replaced other than my center rear console. So the trip may not be that advantageous other than for peace of mind and my lack of patience. After the top replacement, paint work will be on the list as there is quite a few rock chips and door dings that need to be addressed. Everything else seems to be driver friendly mods remaining.
 

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Here is a reference to top types
 

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After the top replacement, paint work will be on the list as there is quite a few rock chips and door dings that need to be addressed.
About door dings and such. If the paint is not broken, you need to look into paintless dent removal. My Sky had about a dozen minor dings of sorts along with two creases. One crease was very shallow located in the right front "side" of the hood above the side marker, horizontal 5" long. The other was an 8" vertical line on the driver's door that was seen via reflection. The area guy I used is "ON THE MARK" who came to my house and did a fantastic job removing everything for $300. Now the car is perfect. Having the car clean and polished, and every ding marked with painter's tape was "key" for best results. He works off "reflections" when removing imperfections, so the better the shine, the better the results.

On The Mark's link takes you to "Before and After" pictures. The dings and such I had don't compare to his given examples.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Here is a reference to top types
Based off of this information, I still hold to my statement that "I doubt I could effectively describe the differences between the two tops and have LKQ not only understand, but confirm and give a [email protected]" It seemed logical enough to ensure the tops were off of 2008's and newer. I also ensured they had the headliner either by verifying the RPO code (AZ5) if was a Sol or ensuring it was a Sky. LKQ's website is decent, but lacking for certain parts. As the top assemblies do not appear to be listed on their site I used car-part.com and then based on the stock number listed, reversed looked up the vehicle by searching for other parts on LKQ's website and then confirming the stock number.

This is the current donor vehicle I'm waiting on:
113120
113121
113122
113123
113124
 

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Discussion Starter #35
About door dings and such. If the paint is not broken, you need to look into paintless dent removal. My Sky had about a dozen minor dings of sorts along with two creases. One crease was very shallow located in the right front "side" of the hood above the side marker, horizontal 5" long. The other was an 8" vertical line on the driver's door that was seen via reflection. The area guy I used is "ON THE MARK" who came to my house and did a fantastic job removing everything for $300. Now the car is perfect. Having the car clean and polished, and every ding marked with painter's tape was "key" for best results. He works off "reflections" when removing imperfections, so the better the shine, the better the results.

On The Mark's link takes you to "Before and After" pictures. The dings and such I had don't compare to his given examples.
I wish it was as simple as PDR. Most of these are rock chips to the primer, I'm assuming the PO lived on a dirt road or it was just Oklahoma roads. The door dings are minor, but almost all have paint damage. The car looks great from 10 feet, but as you get closer you begin to see them.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The kappa top fits either the Solstice or the Sky. They are identical.
That is what I discovered as well from my experience and research, other than the headliner being an option on the Solstice vs standard equipment on the Sky. That's why I was verifying the RPO code "AZ5" if the donor top was from a Solstice. To my understanding all Sky's had this option as standard, however on the Solstice this was an Option unless the car came equipped with OnStar in which case the headliner was then standard with that option. I could be wrong, but that is what my research provided, most of it was from using that elusive search bar at the top of the page.
 

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Correct. The insulated roof was standard equipment for the Sky.
 

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I believe that after 2007 it was also standard on the GXP. My Sol does not have the headliner and it is fine. Of course it may be the exhaust drowning out any wind noise . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Update: The newest top arrived today. Cosmetically it has a few issues the last one did not.
-The interior frame above the drivers side door is scratched. I'm pretty sure I can touch that up with some black paint.
-The weatherstripping around the trunk latch above the water collecting channel has a couple of small chunks missing. I'm not sure what to do about this, will this be a leak issue?
-Otherwise the top looks good just dusty, but that should clean up with some soap and water. I would rate this top a 7 out of 10. For comparison the last top I received was a 10 out of 10 outstanding in appearance.

Now to the mechanical issues.
-One of the elastic straps that pulls on the headliner on to the passenger side has come undone from the headliner. It's all there just needs to be resewn on.
-The top seems to operate as it should, but it seems to be slightly out of alignment and takes some pushing and pulling to get it into place to latch. I'm guessing if I loosen bolts and shift things around I can cure this.
-Final issue is one of the flaps on the tulip cover doesn't lift even though the cable is attached, I have to lift this manually before trying to latch. I'm guessing something is disconnected. I can always swap the cable from my tan top and see if that is the issue.
-I also see that the right purple plastic fastener broke in my last swap, so that will need to be replaced, I think I have the part in a Dorman door pack in one of my garage cubbies.

I'm seeing the finish line. Let's see if these minor adjustments get everything where they need to.
 
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