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-The weatherstripping around the trunk latch above the water collecting channel has a couple of small chunks missing. I'm not sure what to do about this, will this be a leak issue?
Here is a picture of my original convertible top now for sale on Craigslist. You can see it has some damage (a crack, maybe two) in that area. I should inspect the replacement top I have today.

I bought my Sky with one of those cheap plexiglass rear wind shields that squeeze between the trunk lid and tulip, a horrible design. I took it off before I left the seller's property. That inferior product was rough on the area. In your case, it is possible the donor Sky had one of those dang things installed, causing your missing chunks.
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Discussion Starter #42
I replaced the damaged plastic purple connection under the passenger tulip flap with one I had from a Dorman kit and it worked perfectly. I also looked a little more closely and noticed the driver side cable mount was bent out of shape. I used some vice grips and bent it back down about 3 1/2 " from the tulip corner flap opening (the same as the passenger side), if that makes sense? Flap now operates as it should, but seems both sides the flap door gets caught up with the headliner a bit when opening and I find myself walking around and opening them more releasing the tension in order to close the top.

Here is a picture of my original convertible top now for sale on Craigslist. You can see it has some damage (a crack, maybe two) in that area. I should inspect the replacement top I have today.

I bought my Sky with one of those cheap plexiglass rear wind shields that squeeze between the trunk lid and tulip, a horrible design. I took it off before I left the seller's property. That inferior product was rough on the area. In your case, it is possible the donor Sky had one of those dang things installed, causing your missing chunks.
Thanks, that's actually pretty close to the one I just picked up, accept they are more like bird mouth cuts, but located in the same locations. That probably explains that then, I was confused on how the trunk would rub there in it's current position. I'm not planning on the Sky getting wet other than when it's getting washed. So hopefully that mitigates the chance of leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I vacuumed the top with my shop vac and gave the top a wash this morning between teleconferences to get all of the dust off. It looks great and I'm really pleased with the condition, it really changed the look of the car. Now I just need to get these alignment issues sorted out. My wife doesn't drive it often, but I imagine she would have issues raising and lowering the top in it's current situation.
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Try bending those two forked & notched cable mounting brackets a tad bit to pick up the slack in the cable so that your tulip doors are fully opened when the top is up. But don't bend the brackets so much that the tulip doors won't close with the top down. Also watch the angle at which the cables exit their sleeves. You want them as close to "straight out" as possible, not at a significant angle. Hopefully you will find the "sweet spot"......if that is even possible.
 

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The top is adjustable inside the trunk on each side. If the stop screws are not evenly matched, as in one side is extended and thus stops earlier than the other, the top can be skewed when rotated up. Check the two screw / stops and tighten the one on the side away from the off side.

I have seen the flap cable fail inside the cable. Replacing it may be a good idea. But there is another potential issue. You can change the "timing" of the flap opening by bending up or down the retention point for the cable end. By moving it up or down, you can get the flap to open earlier or later. Check both sides to make sure the one that is not opening is not opening because the retention point was bent when you installed the top. Its easy to do. If it moves in the wrong direction, there is so much slack that the cable doesn't have a chance to open the flap anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
The top is adjustable inside the trunk on each side. If the stop screws are not evenly matched, as in one side is extended and thus stops earlier than the other, the top can be skewed when rotated up. Check the two screw / stops and tighten the one on the side away from the off side.

I have seen the flap cable fail inside the cable. Replacing it may be a good idea. But there is another potential issue. You can change the "timing" of the flap opening by bending up or down the retention point for the cable end. By moving it up or down, you can get the flap to open earlier or later. Check both sides to make sure the one that is not opening is not opening because the retention point was bent when you installed the top. Its easy to do. If it moves in the wrong direction, there is so much slack that the cable doesn't have a chance to open the flap anymore.
Thanks Rob, I did swap out my old cable from my factory top first and then I discovered it was the retention point that was the issue with the drivers side. It was obviously bent during removal/transport. I didn't have this issue with the other tops so I didn't know to look for it until I went back and did some searching last night. I actually found one of your old posts that explained this. I bent the drivers side one back towards the rear to be even with the passenger side. This is what I was trying to poorly explain earlier when I said I bent it back to where the edge of the tulip flap and the end of the point are 3.5" gapped apart. This helped a lot as now the tulip flap actuates as it should, but I still believe something is a miss, as the flaps on the factory top would open with plenty of clearance and the top never came into contact with them. Now the top catches the flaps and I need to open them wider manually in order for the top to close all the way.

I'm not familiar with the stop screws and I haven't even looked at those in all honesty. Currently when I try to close the top instead of the top fitting nicely into the windshield channel awaiting to be latched as the factory top did. The top now sits a little higher and forward. In order to seat the top I have found that I need to grab the inner frame lift and pull towards the rear of the vehicle and then the top nests as it should. This is the part I'm 100% positive my wife would struggle with and either break something or decide to break something on me when she got home. So I'm going to investigate the stop screws further. I'll look at my factory top and try to see if I can replicate their orientation to the new top. If y'all can think of anything else, please let me know. I don't believe there is anything wrong with the top, it just needs to be adjusted and I would love to get this top working right and move on to the next project.
 

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There are two "Stops" per side that you are referring to. I played with adjusting them, but in the end I reverted back to making them even and roughly in the middle of the travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
There are two "Stops" per side that you are referring to. I played with adjusting them, but in the end I reverted back to making them even and roughly in the middle of the travel.
I took a look at the stops on both my original top and the new one. Both tops have the stops set exactly to the same measurements. Outside stops are 5/8" and the interior stops are 7/8". I'm not really sure if the stops are the issue or if they are, do I need more travel or less to align. I actuated the top a couple of times and upon further review the top halts short and high of the windshield seats. In order to seat I need to pull back and down to seat the top. I think the pulling back motion is to seat the "b pillars" into the channel behind the doors which miss their mark by about 1/4". Once they are seated the top needs to be pulled down to align the pins. The latch mechanism works flawlessly and nothing appears to be binding when latched or when the buttresses are engaged. Windows sit tight and there is no leaks what so ever.

When the top is open and folded down, it takes a couple of shoves on both sides of the car to get the top to tuck in, but it still has some springyness. It does fold completely into it's position, but lifts up about an inch when you release pressure. The trunk closes, but requires some force to also compress the top. I'm sure all of this is married to each other and the proper alignment.

To tie this post with the other post, @rjgramps I'm very interested in your washers between the body and the brackets. I could see how this would bring the top back just enough for alignment. As my donor top is from a car about 6 months newer then mine (3/08) perhaps it had the washers as mine did not?
 

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I think the pulling back motion is to seat the "b pillars" into the channel behind the doors which miss their mark by about 1/4". Once they are seated the top needs to be pulled down to align the pins.
Concerning that 1/4" B-Pillar missing the mark that you experienced, I initially had that going on my driver side. The problem went away by itself when I raised the entire top assembly that 1/4" utilizing that play by the 3x2 mounting stems and nuts in back.
To tie this post with the other post, @rjgramps I'm very interested in your washers between the body and the brackets. I could see how this would bring the top back just enough for alignment. As my donor top is from a car about 6 months newer then mine (3/08) perhaps it had the washers as mine did not?
It is conceivable that the washers are added on the assembly line on an "As Needed" basis.

I just recalled that I used 6 of 8 washers collected, I have 2 that I did not use, wondering if adding them in just the right place would make for a perfect alignment.

Look close and you will see the washers between the bracket and the car body.
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1/2" ID, 1-5/16" OD but given the application, there is SO MUCH forgiveness in those two dimensions.
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The thickness is 1/8" which is important to meet.
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You should be able to find comparable washers at a home improvement center.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Concerning that 1/4" B-Pillar missing the mark that you experienced, I initially had that going on my driver side. The problem went away by itself when I raised the entire top assembly that 1/4" utilizing that play by the 3x2 mounting stems and nuts in back.
It is conceivable that the washers are added on the assembly line on an "As Needed" basis.

I just recalled that I used 6 of 8 washers collected, I have 2 that I did not use, wondering if adding them in just the right place would make for a perfect alignment.

Look close and you will see the washers between the bracket and the car body.


1/2" ID, 1-5/16" OD but given the application, there is SO MUCH forgiveness in those two dimensions.

The thickness is 1/8" which is important to meet.

You should be able to find comparable washers at a home improvement center.
Thank you sir, those are some surprisingly big washers! This is the first time I have seen these in this application from my research on replacing top assemblies. I may need to give these a try, but I'm curious how these affect the geometry of the top though. Like adjust the hinges on a door, if you used them on all 3 bolts on each side they would pull the top back towards the rear equally 1/8". If you used them on the top bolts only I would assume they would pitch back the top and opposite, but equally if you used them on the bottom bolts only they would pitch the the top forward.
 

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Thank you sir, those are some surprisingly big washers! This is the first time I have seen these in this application from my research on replacing top assemblies. I may need to give these a try, but I'm curious how these affect the geometry of the top though. Like adjust the hinges on a door, if you used them on all 3 bolts on each side they would pull the top back towards the rear equally 1/8". If you used them on the top bolts only I would assume they would pitch back the top and opposite, but equally if you used them on the bottom bolts only they would pitch the the top forward.
I experimented with various washer placements, placing two upper, but no lower, all on one side, none on the other, things like that. In the end, for my Sky, 6 washers, one for each position, yielded an acceptable alignment. I spent a few days and many hours, and finally said "Good Enough".

As I mentioned prior, I cannot rule out the possibility that my top "might" have been minutely affected from the accident the donor experienced. With only a minor tweak while latching, the top fits and seals perfectly with good working flipping buttresses. I count my blessings.
 

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We took our Sky out for the day today. While stopped for ice cream, a flooding downpour came that lasted at least 20 minutes. We got in when the rain lightened up, then drove home, catching the same storm system.

Our replacement convertible top did perfect at keeping water out, not a drop got inside except when opening the doors. So the replacement top fits and aligns properly from that perspective. I had wondered how it would perform. I wonder no longer.

It was also the first practical test for closed-up wind noise. That too passed with an A+. Needless to say, I am extremely happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
We took our Sky out for the day today. While stopped for ice cream, a flooding downpour came that lasted at least 20 minutes. We got in when the rain lightened up, then drove home, catching the same storm system.

Our replacement convertible top did perfect at keeping water out, not a drop got inside except when opening the doors. So the replacement top fits and aligns properly from that perspective. I had wondered how it would perform. I wonder no longer.

It was also the first practical test for closed-up wind noise. That too passed with an A+. Needless to say, I am extremely happy.
As the replacement top already passed the driveway with a hose test, I was waiting on the rain test as well, which of course I hadn't planned on anytime soon. My wife wanted to take the Sky to work on Friday as it was supposed to be another sunny Central Texas summer day. As much as she disapproved, I advised her to not lower the top as I was concerned she would have troubles putting it back up until I got everything squared up. She reluctantly agreed, and it was definitely for the best as a dry front turned into a wet one and came through right at afternoon "rush hour" (if there is a rush hour these days). 30-45mph winds along with heavy rain, I went into the office as well on Friday and asked her to stop by my work on her way home so I could check for leaks. I had her pull into the parking garage, as it was still raining, and the cabin was dry as a bone as well as the trunk. The drains worked as they should and the chunks missing from the weatherstripping above the trunk strike plate area appeared to have caused no issues. I'm also pretty happy with the rain test.

On an interesting note, I'm not sure if the top has stretched out or maybe the drive on Friday "self adjusted" some things, but the top was much easier to close today. It still took a tug to get it aligned at the windshield, but not much. Having the windows down seems to make a difference as well with this. I'm going to try loosening some bolts this week and see if there is any play and then try out some washers perhaps to see if I cant get this just right. I'm thinking it's close, but getting perfect is the goal.
 

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Interesting comment after your rain storm. You have me wondering if my top will work better after being completely soaked, then dry & shrunk to conform better to my Sky.

BTW: I either open the doors or roll down the windows a bit when working the convertible top. I always thought doing so made the process smoother on any convertible.

The C5 Corvette convertibles I owned in the past had a real nice feature. When opening either door, the associated window would drop about an inch, then when closing the door, it closes back up for a perfect fit to the convertible top. Also, when releasing the tonneau cover latch (the convertible top storage compartment) the windows opened all the way to get out of the way of setting up or taking down the convertible top.

I wish the Sky had such applicable features.
 

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....... Having the windows down seems to make a difference as well with this.........
You should always have the windows down, or the doors open, when putting the top up.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
You should always have the windows down, or the doors open, when putting the top up.
I have only had the car a couple of months and maybe raised and lowered the previous top a few times. Come to think of it, I think the windows were either down or the doors were open those times so I didn't put too much thought in having them down would make a difference, but it's logical it would with the way the windows contact the seals. Installing the replacement top the windows were up and I just didn't consider it at the time. Going forward, I'll maker sure the windows are down.
Interesting comment after your rain storm. You have me wondering if my top will work better after being completely soaked, then dry & shrunk to conform better to my Sky.

BTW: I either open the doors or roll down the windows a bit when working the convertible top. I always thought doing so made the process smoother on any convertible.

The C5 Corvette convertibles I owned in the past had a real nice feature. When opening either door, the associated window would drop about an inch, then when closing the door, it closes back up for a perfect fit to the convertible top. Also, when releasing the tonneau cover latch (the convertible top storage compartment) the windows opened all the way to get out of the way of setting up or taking down the convertible top.

I wish the Sky had such applicable features.
I'm wondering if something along those lines happened as it was the first drive with the new top. Maybe something settled or stretched out, IDK, but it's definitely better without me doing any further adjustments.

My dad's C6 does the same as well. I understand a lot of newer Mustangs and Camaros and other sports cars are the same. There are times I think it would be a nice feature, but then there are times I remember how everything has a price. Just last week, Dad's battery tender apparently failed some time ago and his battery subsequently died on his Vette. Everything is battery powered on the car including the door handles. The only way to gain access to the car manually is to remove the hidden key from the fob and unlock the trunk, then climb into the trunk and pull the door release pull to open the drivers door. A lot of work because a dead battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
So I feel like I have the top aligned up to 95% now. It will most likely be a few more tweaks to get it perfect. For now I need to correct some other issues.

1)The drivers side is missing the plastic piece that connects via elastic strap from the top to the side of the trunk. Does anyone have a line on one of these? It seems simple enough in design I may try to 3D print this part if it’s not readily available.
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2) The next issue is strictly cosmetic. The interior top frame is scratched. By chance does someone know the paint code for this? I know it’s a long shot, but I’ve been pretty impressed with the knowledge base here and if anyone would know, they would be here. If not I’ll try to see what I can find at the hardware store. I already tried a sharpie and it’s not even close.
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The next issue is strictly cosmetic. The interior top frame is scratched. By chance does someone know the paint code for this? I know it’s a long shot, but I’ve been pretty impressed with the knowledge base here and if anyone would know, they would be here. If not I’ll try to see what I can find at the hardware store. I already tried a sharpie and it’s not even close.
Have you tried paint code #2 pencil ?
 
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