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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After setting for three months I can not charge the battery, cannot remove the key and cannot shift the tranny. Whats up with that?

The charging may be a circuit in the charger that shuts it off if the load is too high, but I am connected to the"+" terminal on the fuse box and on the tab on the side of the engine that is recommended by the manual.

AND, if the battery is a gonner, is there a replacement, however small, that will replace it so I dont have to remove the front fender to take it in and out?
 

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What are you using to charge the battery? Many of the more modern charges have a "safety" feature that wont let you hook it up backward. The way it works is it checks for a small positive voltage, the problem is if the battery is to dead the new chargers wont charge it. When I left mine a few winters ago, I had that issue. The way the car was parked I could not get jumper cables to it, So I was trying jump packs and chargers, finally found one that didn't have the feature. I know keep the car on a trickle charger over the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
That is probably a the problem. I have an old brute force charger that I will try tonight. Why do manufacturers always try to out think us?

Any suggestions for a battery series that will go in and come out without removing the fender?
 

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I don't think there is such a thing, but there are far more experience folk here.. Hopefully one of them will be along. All the other issues you mention are all cause of the battery. I had all the same problems. I didn't replace my battery, It works all summer, and then in the fall when we park it I hook up the trickle charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
That seems to have been the problem. I went into the garage and got my NEWER charger that apparently doesnt have the dumb down circuitry and hooked it up and everything came to life.

I do not like what the world is coming to. We dumb down everything to an "average" intelligence and penalize those of us that are smart enough to put RED on Positive and BLACK on negative. Its true everywhere. They have even stopped teaching cursive writing in school because its too hard to learn......oh me, poor little dummies.:willy::willy:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info on the charger. Saved me. I have to get it inspected tomorrow so I can get registered before the 1st.
 

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I do not think a battery exists that you would want, or be able to use, and even if there was, making provision for it in the car would be more work than taking the fender off to replace the original battery. And you would have to do that anyway, because you don't want to leave a dead battery in the car.

How old is the battery? If it isn't too old you can likely save it by charging it slowly (2 amps is my recommendation) for a couple of days.

In the future, if you are not going to drive the car for more than a month you should connect a battery maintainer to keep it from draining. You could also disconnect it, but to me that is a less desirable option.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am thinking there might be one you can poke down endwise to the existing tray and rotate it to the proper position. It looks like the current one isnt realy that far away from fitting from the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Might try one of those big Capacitors. They are smaller than batteries and have plenty of power with a tiny auxiliary battery tied to them.
 

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I went with this battery, extension cables, and velcro chinch strap. Can swap the battery in 5 minutes w/o removing the fender.

The battery lasts 3 years in the Florida heat. It's also way lighter, mount flat on the bottom of tray, or upright. I went flat.

Downside, doesn't have much reserve, so trickle charger would be advised if car won't run for more than a week.

Battery: (SLA, AGM, no spills)
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-Rechargeable-Threaded-Terminals/dp/B00KC39BE6

Extension cables: (if laying battery flat)
https://www.amazon.com/Spartan-Power-Battery-America-Lengths/dp/B075SJDBZC/

Strap: (run both perpendicular around battery and battery tray in x fashion)
https://www.amazon.com/AIRNIX-Webbing-Reusable-Fastening-Securing/dp/B07C77MFWF/

Note, batteries don't like running down under 10v, and it can cause the battery to fail or not fully charge next time.
If the car is not a daily driver, hook up a maintainer with auto charging/shutoff/float
1amp with shutoff like this model works for my motorcycle and mower as well with quick connects
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Maintainer-Portable-Motorcycle-Batteries/dp/B07CZ7KWP3/
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Perfect. I may add a supercapacitor booster pack to it. I also have a 1 amp solar charger on the roof of the garage.
Thanks
 

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Blue,

I have been told, but never had done it. Take the inner fender loose, remove the passenger side front wheel, loosen the brace and supposedly the battery can be pulled thru the area. I can not say I have seen it done, but have read that others have done it.
 

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Also can you jump it with another vehicle. If you can even if it won's start you will be able to remove the key and get it back in park. As long as the engine turns over. I have an NA that croaks all the time.
 

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One more thing . . .

I have to get it inspected tomorrow so I can get registered before the 1st.
After replacing the battery you will have to drive the car about a hundred miles and register a number of ignition starts; otherwise it will fail the computer test at the state inspection station.
 

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I have done it both ways and prefer fender removal, but others have said the opposite. My impression is that Solstice owners tend to prefer the wheel well method because their fender is harder to realign, but clearly have no experience with that.

I really don't see the value in going to a special battery just to avoid having to remove a fender every 5-7 years, but we each have our own priorities.
 

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When the battery takes a nose dive, strange things can happen to the Kappa.
Sitting for awhile takes it's toll. Charging/maintaining the battery is essential if stored for long periods.
Flat spots to the tires can occurred if left for long periods without air pressure checks/ movement from the storage
spot.

I start the Kappa every ten days, drive it a bit. Charge the battery, oil the turbo bearings/gaskets, clean the brake rotors,
pressurize the systems, fluid distribution to all parts. Sitting for 3 months leaves little to no oil in the motor, metal to metal contact
on the next start up cycle. Not a good thing. Driving it to get the car to stretch it's legs. Suspension travel, bushings can
grow old, just like us all. Exercise the sleepiness right off it's hood.

Don't let it sit to long, before checking to see if... in fact it will start for you?
Key process when or if battery goes dead. I learned this "fact" in another thread here. Learning every day on this site still.


Yes the battery can be replaced by the front wheel liner approach. Been there. Done that. Wheel liners are cheaper than
front qtr. panels on this car, if $$$ is a concern here? New tires & battery replacement 2 yrs. ago on mine using this method
and... with all 4 wheels off, you can check all of your hub bolts at the corners, torqued back to factory specs, Loc-tite any loose ones,
replace any missing ones, install new battery, and maybe a new wheel liner too, before tire rotation & balance and then alignment,
not that I would know anything about this process... cough cough.


* I do not like what the world is coming to. I hear this line a lot these days... I agree too.
Glad things worked A ' ok in this case for you. Every ten days, come out and turn it over for 3 minutes or so. Just to be safe.
Sleeping for 90 days... on the charger she goes. Still even then start it let the oil do it's thing. Key good, battery good. Oil good. It starts. Bingo.

LAC
 

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Discussion Starter #17
After replacing the battery you will have to drive the car about a hundred miles and register a number of ignition starts; otherwise it will fail the computer test at the state inspection station.
Thank God Texas doesnt do that.
 

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I had my factory battery still going strong at the nine year mark before I opted out of continuing to play battery chicken and changed it.

The fender removal is no big deal and the paint fading and/or the road dust marks the outline of where the fasteners go when you reinstall it, so there are no alignment problems. Installing a non-stock and possibly inadequate battery to avoid what is really a trivial job seems counterproductive, but to each his own.

Had the battery change been like a normal car, I'd probably have continued with the original battery until it finally gave up, just out of curiosity as to how long it would continue to function. As it isn't the sort of car where you can change the battery at the side of the road in 10 minutes, I decided not to go that way.

I was impressed with how long it did last - but then I was brought up with cars that had batteries, exhausts, shocks etc. that were calibrated to last one mile longer than the warranty period....

PS - agree that the cars should be able to sit a month (but definitely not 3 months) without starting - did that this winter when the cold weather made driving on the tires I had inadvisable.
 

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It is odd, but my NA has sat for three months without a problem, but the RL has trouble after two. The batteries are about the same age, and the cars normally see about the same duty cycle, so I don't know whether it is a weak battery, misbehaving electrical component, or the nature of the NA vs RL.
 

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After setting for three months I can not charge the battery, cannot remove the key and cannot shift the tranny. Whats up with that?

The charging may be a circuit in the charger that shuts it off if the load is too high, but I am connected to the"+" terminal on the fuse box and on the tab on the side of the engine that is recommended by the manual.

AND, if the battery is a gonner, is there a replacement, however small, that will replace it so I dont have to remove the front fender to take it in and out?
If yours is prone to extended parking, I'd suggest a battery tender, any brand should do the trick. I have one that I connect when I don't plan on driving it for (even) a few weeks. Funny thing about many charges, some require at least 2 volts before they will charge the battery. I have a dinosaur charger and a B&D tender and neither would charge the battery when it was under 2 volts, they'd both shut off. I agree with one of the posters that suggested jumping it with another car. Id try this to get "some" juice in the battery and and then try your charger to do the rest. Also, and I have no data to back it, but I don't think it's a good idea to try and charge or jump it through your fuse box. You should take the positive of the charger/jumper and hook it direct to the + terminal on the battery and the negative to your Sky's metal frame. That said I do have my tender attached directly to the + & - terminals on the battery based on the mfgs instructions. In the attached PIC, the connector with the eyelets is the one that is connected to my battery at all times. Then I merely need to plug it in when not in use. The actual charging unit is velcro'd to the side of my garage door opened so the cord drops to right about where the battery is located in the Sky. The charger I have was $18 through Amazon.
 

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