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:wtf: A year and a half and still I can't get the amber to light up on the front turn signal switchback LED's only the white stays on!!! :banghead:
Do you modificate something before install the leds?
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Mission Accomplished - Front turn signal switchback LED's working!!!!! :yay:
Mike, no relay needed.
 

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Mission Accomplished - Front turn signal switchback LED's working!!!!! :yay:
Mike, no relay needed.
I'm interested too in how you make de installation :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
GREAT! What did u do?
I'm interested too in how you make de installation :cheers:
All along it was the electrical connection from the LED lamp to the socket that was not making a good connection...
All you need is the correct LED lamp and a resister parallel to that circuit if your going to use it as a turn signal only....
 

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Ok JimElvis,

Please report back to us the outcome. Did you have to do anything special (dwindle or grease) to the new LED's to get them in the sockets? If you're putting LED's in the mirror, let me know if they dimly glow all the time.

John
Boy am I a procrastinator, I put it off for so long I forgot I had the bulbs.
I'm in Germany for a few months now. Need to get this project back on my to do list.
 

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Okay, normally when people bring posts back from the dead it's not the OP with an updated. LOL Good to see you back JimElviss. LOL Can't wait to see what you have up your sleeve.
 

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All along it was the electrical connection from the LED lamp to the socket that was not making a good connection...
All you need is the correct LED lamp and a resister parallel to that circuit if your going to use it as a turn signal only....
I would like the white to be on when parking lights are on AND I would like the white to shut off when I am using the blinker so only the amber flashes. No white at all during blinker. Do l need a resistor parallel with the parking light circuit AND the blinker circuit?
 

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The reason you need a resistor in the line for LED turn signals is because of the way the computer monitors the load on the turn signal line.

The way it works with standard bulb is if the computer detects less load on the turn signal line, it will cause the flasher to flash in short quick bursts rather than the normal long slow blinks. This is to alert the driver that there is a bulb burned out or other issue with that side's turn signals.

When you go to LEDs, they draw far less power than standard light bulbs. So when you put in LED bulbs into a system that was designed like ours was to work with standard bulbs, the computer sees this lower load and goes into that quick short burst mode.

The resisters are used in the turn signal line with LEDs to increase the load on the turn signal line to prevent the computer from thinking a bulb is out and put the flasher into that burst mode.

Therefore, you don't need a resister in the Parking Light circuit SO LONG AS you are using LEDs meant to be plugged into a 12v circuit. If you try and build your own LED assembly from parts from Radio Shack, then there are a whole different set of calculations you have to perform to make sure you're not running too much voltage to the lights. I'm going to assume, however, that you are using automotive bulbs that are designed to run on a 12v circuit. If they plug into the standard bulb housings, then they most certainly are designed to run on 12 volts.
 

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The reason you need a resistor in the line for LED turn signals is because of the way the computer monitors the load on the turn signal line.

The way it works with standard bulb is if the computer detects less load on the turn signal line, it will cause the flasher to flash in short quick bursts rather than the normal long slow blinks. This is to alert the driver that there is a bulb burned out or other issue with that side's turn signals.

When you go to LEDs, they draw far less power than standard light bulbs. So when you put in LED bulbs into a system that was designed like ours was to work with standard bulbs, the computer sees this lower load and goes into that quick short burst mode.

The resisters are used in the turn signal line with LEDs to increase the load on the turn signal line to prevent the computer from thinking a bulb is out and put the flasher into that burst mode.

Therefore, you don't need a resister in the Parking Light circuit SO LONG AS you are using LEDs meant to be plugged into a 12v circuit. If you try and build your own LED assembly from parts from Radio Shack, then there are a whole different set of calculations you have to perform to make sure you're not running too much voltage to the lights. I'm going to assume, however, that you are using automotive bulbs that are designed to run on a 12v circuit. If they plug into the standard bulb housings, then they most certainly are designed to run on 12 volts.
I put in some switchback LEDs from eBay and they actually blink fine BUT the white stays on all the time making it hard to see the amber flashing
 

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What you could do is put in a relay that detects when the signal line is hot and then delays returning power to the white light so that you don't have a white/amber signal oscillation.

Automotive Time-Delay Relay Applications





So this is a relay that turns power off when voltage is sent to the trigger input then turns back on after a delay. What you would do is connect your turn signal hot lines into the trigger inputs of this relay like you see here. However, you wouldn't have the power loop back onto the turn signal line. Instead you would have it go to the white light you want to turn off when the signal is on and to turn back on when the signal is off. Something like this is how you'd wire it:



You don't need diodes as they are there just to keep the flow of electricity moving one way. Since you're not powering the same bulbs like the original example, you don't need them. I hope this all makes sense. Note that this would be a positive trigger and you would need to play with the delay time to figure out how long you want it to be off before coming back on. Too soon and it would come on between flashes again. Too late and it would seem like forever before it comes back on.

I am glad I looked into this as this is something I need to get for my Harley Sportster!
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Robo, I didn't need to use a relay for my "Switchback" LED bulbs to work correctly.
Yes the OP will need a resister parallel to the circuit in order not to get the hipper flashing..
The OP also needs to check the wiring legs on the lamp. I remember having problems and it was the lamp not making a good connection. Also might be the wrong lamp for our particular setup. Make sure all the legs on the lamp lineup with the tabs on the socket..
 

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I hate to necro, but this thread's how-to pictures have gone dead. Any chance we could get a slideshow on Youtube?
 

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2008 Sky Redline - Manual - Emerald Metallic
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Why can I not see the photos? Any ideas? Settings?
 

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Why can I not see the photos? Any ideas? Settings?
Most likely the pictures were hosted off of the forum, and the link no longer works.
 

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Yea, when photobucket went to the pay use a lot of that happened. I don't know who has the original photos but what do you have questions on?
Robo
Are there any before and after pictures?
Also, any pictures of the tabs (mentioned in post) that hold the lamp assembly and lens together?
Thanks.
Strobe
 
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